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EmanAbela

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Everything posted by EmanAbela

  1. Grazzi lil kullhadd tax-xewqat sbieh li qed tghadduli ;) B'day mal-kotba u l-pc ergajna dis-sena imma hekk ta' l-anqas intella l-moral. :D :D

  2. Thank you guys for your suggestions, today my friend demoed the Kicker KS. I must admit that I was not impressed as far as SQ goes, however they are very solid and remain clean even at higher levels.
  3. Hi guys, I am considering doing an upgrade on my factory speakers. I have a Toyota Yaris Hatchback with a current setup of stock head unit, stock speakers, and a pioneer bass tube (The Pump TS-WX20LPA). I am not into SPL, rather a solid SQ which at least I can impress my friends with and which I can enjoy listening of course. I live in a small country and the choice of brands is rather limited and few shops let you listen to the speakers before actual installation. So I'm counting on you guys to help me in making a good choice Right now on top of my list are the Focal Access 165A or the Kicker KS. I also went to a shop which supplies Hertz (I heard they also make good comps), but more stock is coming in a few weeks time, so I shall call again. Any suggestion much appreciated. Thank you.
  4. So finally I managed to hook the sub directly to the h/u using the sp input, everything went fine but still I didn't get any significant difference by eliminating the adapter. The strange thing was that the signal was rather weak, I had to set the sub gain nearly to full to get nearly the same power, and still it was not that loud
  5. Hi all, This is my first on the forum so please bear with me. I just installed a bass tube in my hatchback Toyota Yaris, the Pioneer ts-wx20lpa http://www.pioneer.eu/eur/products/archive/TS-WX20LPA/index.html. The sub is hooked with the factory oem h/u, therefore I installed a high/low converter, the exact model being this one XScorpion LC09 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_40150_Xscorpion-LC09.html . The power cable is a standard cable which came with the sub and is directly connected with the car battery (no capacitor or fuse). The sound is quite good and solid considering it is a bass tube, however I notice that at certain very low frequencies the bass response suffers and the sub starts to struggle. For example take Phil Collins - In the Air tonight, that deep bass hardly comes out at all. Gain on the sub is at almost half way, maybe pushed a little more, 1 o'clockish I would like any suggestion from you experts if I can do anything to improve my setup and improve my frequency response. Thank you
  6. Great info jdblya ! Well replacing the h/u in the first place is the best way to go, I perfectly agree. The reason I didn't replace it is that we have a high level of theft in cars in our area, replacing the factory h/u would definitely attract more attention. Apart from that, I am doing this cable thing to learn something as well and get ma hands dirty a little. I will certainly consider a processor in the future, seems quite a pretty device to get those deep lows
  7. Exactly my first taught, but the blue plug covers both power + fronts. I'm only concerned with the adjacent white plug which handles the rear out. Just want to figure out which y/b/r/w wires represent a positive or negative.
  8. Here is the back side of the h/u if it might be of any help
  9. Damn, I ran into another problem guys. So I checked the wiring diagram of my yaris. It seems that the guy that fitted the LOC connected the + out (according to the diagram) from the h/u to the - in on the LOC and vice verse. Should I stick with the wiring diagram? The other thing is that the wiring diagram is for the yaris 2007 in general (which is the model of my car of course), but factory stereos fitted in the yaris vary from region to region. The exact model of my h/u is a Panasonic W58824. The pins and cable colours also match from the wiring diagram I found to the actual pinouts on my h/u. Any suggestions appreciated. Thank you
  10. Cheers guys, fortunately the Hertz guy is willing to let me listen to the speakers and also heard good reviews about them. They do not seem to be pricey neither, at least when compared to the focal. Unfortunately the focal K series I'm afraid that is out of my price range. And yes I am planning on buying an amp. Still haven't decided if it shall be 2 or 4 channel amp to hook two rears in the future
  11. Thank you for your input ricksi30. What exactly do mean by demoing? I already streamed some youtube vids to get an idea (of course it still varies greatly when the sound is loaded into the car). Still I want to get some opininons what you pros think about the aforementioned comps. Thanks again for your help
  12. Ok managed to find the datasheet http://www.eserviceinfo.com/download.php?fileid=58405 and interpret the polarity of the sockets. Yep, upper seems to be positive. Will set it up tomorrow and see how it goes
  13. Thank you for your input teambrownnote. From the h/u side it should not be a problem, I already have +/- marked as they are connected to the RCA adapter. However strange as it may seem on the sub they are not marked neither on the manual! However I found the Alpine MRV-100M which has an identical socket to my sub (2x2 and same alignment). On the manual of the alpine + are marked as the upper row. Can I assume that the same applies to the pio ?
  14. Thank you Alton. So now I spliced the wires of the 2x2 plug and connected longer speaker cables so that I can get coverage from the rear of the car (Sub) to the front (h/u). However, when I plugged the 2x2 into the terminal into the sub I noticed that the upper cables (the black ones) are corresponding to the + input. Aren't the black cables supposed to be negative ones ?! Thought I just ask before removing the adapter and start connecting from the h/u side
  15. Actually not all of the h/u gets hot, but there is a metal plate on the back which definitely exceeds the degree of "warm". But I haven't noticed any distortions or other symptoms from the speakers. I also tried to hook the sub directly to the h/u but it seems it is turning out into quite a complex task (for my newbie standards at least). Well the 4-pin speaker line input cable which was supposed to come with the sub is missing. I tried to contact the shop where I bought the sub from and told me it will take more than a month to arrive! Therefore I went to the computer store and bought a normal 2x2 molex connector (the likes of this one http://www.atmarkit.co.jp/fsys/cableconnect/09power/04power_atx12v-cbl-l.jpg ) However I would like to confirm from you guys whether it is up to the job quality wise. The cable is 16awg and I am planning to connect it to some normal speaker cables. Thank you and sorry once again for my newbiness
  16. Yep in fact I just lowered the output voltage for each channel a little, and increased the gain from the sub amp. But overall sq remained the same. Tomorrow I'll buy some speaker cable and try to hook it directly as suggested. Btw while I was tweaking I noticed that the backside of the head unit became rather hot after about half an hour. Is this normal? Thank you guys for the time being
  17. Yeah, in fact I already started looking for some 6.5 comps. So far Hertz and Focal Access are on the league, but anyways I shall discuss those on another thread. Btw the rca adaptor seems to have a "Signal Adjust" on it. Do you think I should play around a little with it as well before removing it completely?
  18. Cheers guys, I just played around with the filter knob and moved the sub around, sq is already better. Didn't have time to hook the speaker wires to sub (thanks for your input Alton, now understand what the other meant), my next step will be to eliminate the RCA adaptor. Also I have the gain input centred at half with bass eq at -5 db from h/u. Do you think this is a good good setting for the sub ?
  19. Cheers guys, I just played around with the filter knob and moved the sub around, sq is already better. Didn't have time to hook the speaker wires to sub (thanks for your input Alton, now understand what the other meant), my next step will be to eliminate the RCA adaptor. Also I have the gain input centred at half with bass eq at -5 db from h/u. Do you think this is a good good setting for the sub ?
  20. Many thanks for your responses Tirefryr and Teambrownnote. First off I checked the manual of the sub and it stated that freq. response is 25-200hz, so I guess it goes a bit deep. I perfectly agree that I can start off by playing around with the filter on the amp and moving the sub around. The next step I can't really understand (excuse my ignorance, I am a complete beginner to the sound mod scene); so you're suggesting that I directly connect the sub to the rear output of the oem h/u and eliminating the hi/low converter. What kind of cable do I require to do that? I also forgot to mention that I have the rear speakers sharing the same output of my sub. The exact model of the oem h/u is this : W58824 (seem to be from Panasonic). Thank you for your assistance
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