Purplehaze

SOLD

As bad as I hate to, I have decided to sell my baby, the Solo X 15. This is a BRAND NEW sub, never used, never mounted or seen any power. A full build log is available in my cig. I am very firm on the price of this sub, it is worth twice what I am asking. Item: Custom Solo X 15 Description: New, unused. Fresh build. It is a Solo X 18 motor, rebuilt and bored gap, w/ 15" TI frame, Quad spaced TC spiders, and DC Level 5 m2 D1.4ohm fw 8-layer hi-temp coil, AR cone, and true cf matching red dust cap w custom logo. Specs: I have free air parameters available. It is a custom build... Price: $700 shipped, cont. US only* *Pacific time zone pays $20 more for shipping, due to the weight. (sorry) Pictures: I hate to sell it, I just really need money atm, but I can find 100 reasons to keep it. The main two being that there is no other like it IN THE WORLD, and I built it. But like I said, I need money, and it will be a while before I can properly use this sub. So if anyone out there really wants it, now is your chance! Just please, no trade offers, and I am very firm on the price. If your serious, PM me and we can talk! - Purplehaze Build Log: Solo X 15 (V.2) Sub-woofer build log - Subwoofers / Speakers - SSA Car Audio Forum

ttt

Product: 8" DC Level 2 (m1.5) - Pair Specs: 600 RMS (Full parameters available) Description: Freshly built by myself. They have triple nomex spiders, direct 10g ofc sewn leads, and "SPL" coils. Full build log available. Price: $225 + Shipping for the pair. Will not split up. Trades (or trade-ins) are possible, pm me with what you have in mind. Pictures:

Thanks man, I really appreciate that! Now if only I could find some work... if not I'll just keep making my own work. They would be very good for that, IMO. I actually thought about building a HT setup with them, but just need money more atm.

Bump

TTT

Hey still looking for the Solo X 18 motor boot.

Hello friends, I am looking for motor boots for a couple of different motors. First, I need a boot for a Solo X 18 motor. This is needed badly, the subs will be inverted, and I'm only missing one. And second, I need a Rockford Fosgate Punch HX2 (3" coil) motor boot. I have money ready, and will gladly pay for these plus shipping. Let me know if you have either, please!!! I know someone out there somewhere has one of these much needed motor boots! My fingers are crossed! Trent - Purplehaze

Thanks man, yeah he has the whole motor. I really just need the boot. Bump for boots!

No problem, glad to! And thank you for the compliment! I just don't understand why it doesn't get anymore attention than it does... maybe it's the title. Is there any way for me to edit the thread title?

Hey friends, just wanted to share my most recent build with you all, my first Solo X 15. This was a challenging sub to build, but a lot of fun. Big thanks goes out to David, Rusty, and everyone who had a hand in helping make this happen (too many to remember). A lot of people stepped up and helped out, but none more than the man himself, David Moore@PSi. He and Rusty answered every question I could come up with, and without them both, this would not have happened, period. So thanks guys, it really means a lot! So I started with an idea to build a Solo X 15. Little did I know it had already been done, multiple times by PSi. (Check it out) So, I began talking to David about doing some for my PT, but had a problem with how they were going to end up. See, until now, the most any Solo X has been built for daily on music was ~2K, and the reason was simple: the coil. Kicker did some really nice things with the design of this motor, but they screwed themselves by only using a slim 4 layer flat-wound coil in a tight gap. 5K RMS is a fantasy, and no Solo X will last long with that much power. So I got to thinking... how could I improve this? So while thinking, I started buying up motors. I found three right off the bat. But one was a little rough, with a scratched up bottom plate, and no motor boot. And when I removed the frame, the top plate shifted on me. This wound up being a blessing in disguise. To fix the shift, the top plate had to come off. Once it was off, I got an idea. And after talking to the right people, my idea was verified. The idea was simple: cut the gap a little bigger to fit an 8-layer coil. So I took it (top plate) to my local Harley shop, to have their machinist cut out the gap, drill the new bolt holes, and cut the center of the new frame, so it will sit down on the top plate flush, the way I want. When everything was done, it looked like this. So now they were almost ready to be re-married, but first, I wanted to do a little work to improve the looks. And, I had an idea on securing the top plate. So... See what I'm doing here? Notice I did away with all the old unnecessary bolt holes. And finally, she's ready to go back together. Then once I got it down right, and all 4 posts secured, time for more body work!

Bump for help?

TTT Does anyone know of any other boots I could use on the Punch HX2? Or of any place I can have them made? Or just buy different ones that are already made? I could really use some direction!

Bump

TTT

Thanks guys, I appreciate it!

Thank you. Thanks man. That's what I figure too, so I'm just gonna build a couple of enclosures and see what she does. I'm thinking far a daily box, 5 cubes, tuned around 35hz. For a burp box, maybe 3 - 5ft3 and a 8 - 10" external areo port, tuned up around 47 or so. What do you fellas think? Any opinions on the enclosures?

Okay so when I last left off, I was waiting for the dust cap. Well it came in, and I'd already had two logos cut for it, one in black & one in silver, so I could decide which one to use. It still took me almost two days to decide, and I finally went with the black. Btw I know these are simple logo's, but I completely designed them, they use different fonts for each letter, so I know they are "different". I think it's perfect. "SX V2" - I call mine v.2 because PSi already did them, but mine is a different version, hence the "V.2". So here is the cap and logos, right after getting the cap in the mail. The bottom is my original printout. So then I taped up the bottom plate of a 10" Kicker L7, to use for weight to press the cap down while the glue sets up. Done. And this one, I did a good job, no glue where it's not supposed to be After letting it setup for 24 hours, time to put the logo on, and call the project finished. (Well almost, still want to put some tech-flex on the wires) And here are the parameters I came up with. I don't know that they are all accurate, b/c this is a large driver, with a SUPER tight suspension, and the "added mass method" is just not the best way to do the test. But unfortunately, it's the only way I know to do it. So here is what I came up with... * This data was exported from DATS the Dayton Audio Test System * * Manufacturer: Trent Stover - Purplehaze * Model: Solo X 15 V.2 * Piston Diameter = 330.2 mm * f(s)= 41.43 Hz * R(e)= 2.96 Ohms * Z(max)= 87.24 Ohms * Q(ms)= 15.693 * Q(es)= 0.551 * Q(ts)= 0.532 * V(as)= 41.900 liters (1.480 cubic feet) * L(e)= 6.31 mH * n(0)= 0.73 % * SPL= 90.71 1W/1m * M(ms)= 288.80 grams * C(ms)= 0.04 mm/N * BL= 31.27 Now the main #'s I'm not sure about are the Qms (seems too high), the Vas (got different #'s every time), the Mms (too low 4 sure) and the Bl (also too low). I'm sure the fs will drop once it gets broke in, and the other stuff could be wrong due to my inability to use a different method. So anyway, what do you all think?

Man.... Shit is for real, no doubt! And turned out so nice too, I just love it!

I bought 2 - 15" Memphis M3's recently, but at different times from different people. This was the first one I bought, I have yet to start on the second one. This one was sold the day after I finished it... Anyway, when I got it, the bottom plate was shifted. (almost every motor I get seems to be shifted) So in order to fix it, first Ihad to pull the bottom plate. Here is the method I came up with to do it, w/o hurting the ferrite. I start with a putty knife, and 2 butter knifes. First I gently tap the putty knife in between the plate and magnet. Then, I gently place each butter knife on each side. Then I remove the putty knife, but leave the butter knives. Then, I gently tap a flat head screw driver on each butter knife, between it and the plate, so the knife keeps the magnet safe. Once they are both in, you just pry up enough to get a piece of wood in one side. Then you just repeat the process so you have two pieces of wood now in between the magnet and bottom plate. At that point, separating them is easy. Then, after cleaning the old glue, and making shims, it's time to put them back together. Fixed More on the way...

But then, I got to looking, and thinking. The top plate seemed to be next to shift. So, I beat it to the punch, and pulled it, and re-set it, with new glue. (It is much easier to pull, just use long screws) And after that, she was finally ready for some touch-up paint, and assembly. Very tight gap means lots of motor force... I painted the cone, to make it different than other M3's. Next time, I will use a poly cone if I'm going to add color, this was not easy, and didn't really turn out exactly how I wanted. But it wasn't bad... Some glue on all the bolts And now final assembly. Spiders get ca glue, surround gets rubberized glue. Here it is finished. And man, I've got to say, this thing was freakin loud! And sounded good too! But I was really surprised at how loud it was, and only on 600 watts at that. But one of my neighbors was also impressed. So much, that he bought it that day! I didn't even get the chance to pull ts numbers on it... Oh well, it was a fun build, and I learned a lot. And I've got another one to do, as soon as my next load of parts makes it in. So what do you guys think about me maybe doing the next one in blue, instead of orange? Would that be a sin? Or a cool idea? Lets discuss!

Cool deal, thank you! I appreciate that. Yeah I get all my parts from Jorge or David @PSi. But hell yeah, I'm always down for finding more quality parts hook-ups! Thanks again! Oh and yes sir, I did all the painting. The top/ bottom plate I used "Black Night Metallic" from Rustoleum. and the frame is "Cherry Red" American Accents, both with the American Accents semi-gloss clear coat. The frame was color sanded twice, in between coats. I am very pleased with the finish on all of the parts to this sub. I took my time, and it paid off...

So does anyone want to take a look at the new numbers, and try and help me figure out what I'm doing wrong? I'm definitely not doing something right.

Yes sir, as soon as I build a box for it, and upgrade my Expo's electric, I will have lots of vids in action. Till then, the best I can do is maybe a free-air/ break-in video sometime this week. You are right, it should. I sure hope so. I'm about to free-air soon, see if that helps. Plus I need to figure out what I'm doing wrong with this program...