putergod

10's wont cut it. I had them, ditched them for 12's about 4 or 5 years ago. I used to run 15's exclusively, so it's already a tough sell with measly 12's, lol I can add a LITTLE more air space... but not much. If you've ever seen the trunk of a GTO, you'll understand. Why didn't your 10's work? What were they? What was their enclosure? What was the amp? Same model as my current 12's, in boxes about the same size, and the amp was my 10.0 They just didn't hit as low or loud as I wanted.

10's wont cut it. I had them, ditched them for 12's about 4 or 5 years ago. I used to run 15's exclusively, so it's already a tough sell with measly 12's, lol I can add a LITTLE more air space... but not much. If you've ever seen the trunk of a GTO, you'll understand.

1. How old are you? 35 2. When did you get into car audio? 1989 3. How did you first get into car audio? Got a car 4. Whats your favorite color? black 5. Male or female? Male 6. Your first Car? 1968 Chevy CE-10 Custom 8. How did you find out about this site? Don't remember 9. What was your first system? 8-track, audiovox 40w "power booster", audiovox 6x9's 11. Were do you live? GA 12. Whats you favorite car audio brand? SoundStream, Pre-2002 15. Who is our hero in the car audio industry? Me 16. Whats your dream system? Large 17. Whats your dream car? Ferrari Testarossa, any year 18. Whats the fastest car you have driven/ridden in? 1966 Chevelle - HIGHLY modded 19. Were do you buy most of your car audio products? Used to be HiFi Buys in Macon - now, wherever 20. What is your job? IT 21. Whats your favorite saying? 24. Whats your favorite brand of cars? Ferrari 25. What do you like better, cars, vans, trucks, or suv's? Cars 29. Whats is the most recent thing you have purchased? Food 31. Who do you think is the most knowledgeable person on SSA? Me 32. What is your personal best on the TL? and with what equipment? Never been on one 33. SQ or SPL? why? SQ - loud is useless if it sounds like ass

I just put the 4360on an oscope, and the most I could get out of it, @4ohms before clipping, was ~100 watts. Normally that wouold be considered a good thing (as it's more than it's rated at unbridged), however, I couldn't get any more bridging it. I.E. I was getting ~20v/100w on a 1KHz sine wave on each channel seperately, as well as bridging them per the owners manual. Is the 4360 unbridgable?

D2 or D4, or both?

Which one are these specs for?

The Eclipses are the SW8122DVC's. I only posted the "series" earlier because I had to look up the exact model number. I believe these are the final vintage of the 8100 series.

I am looking for some suggestions on subs to replace the two Eclipse SW8100 series 12's I have now. Here is what I have: Kenwood DNX-7100 Audio Control Matrix Audio Control EQS Boston Acoustics ProSeries 6.0 (front) Powered by US Amps USA-4300x @ 3Ohm Bridged. According to the O-Scope, I am getting ~460w per bridged channel @ 3Ohm (unclipped) Stock rears power by HU (2) Eclipse 12" SW8100 Dual 4Ohm Powered by US Amps USA-1000x @ 2Ohm stereo According to the O-Scope I am getting ~630wpc @ 2Ohm stereo (unclipped) The boxes the subs are in are "not much more" than 1^3 sealed, gross internal volume. My goals: Maintain high SQ as I currently have, but find something that is more efficient than the heavy coned Eclipses, that will get much louder on the USA-1000x. I would like to keep the same boxes (due to fitment, and cost). They are in the trunk of a 2006 Pontiac GTO. So, the subs need to fit in the boxes I have, be a high SQ sub, but be efficient and put out a lot of sound at ~600w per sub (and be wireable to 2Ohm per sub or 4Ohm combined - all the amp can handle). TIA!

Well, I know the Eclipses don't get loud enough for me when I really want to jam (ok, when I want to shut up someone else that thinks they got a system, lol). It really seems like they start to bottom out earlier than I would like.

Oh, and to aid in gestimating the box sizes: The bottoms are ~13"x16" The tops are a 15" circle The "low side" is about 9" high The "high side" is about 12" high. And I use polyfill as needed...

Using WinISD, and plugging in the TS parameters I can find for each of the 3 (includes the ones I have), it looks like all three would perform about the same. The Eclipses show they would be a little louder from about 32Hz and up, with the RL-p's a little louder below 31Hz. The Icons are slightly below up to about 40Hz then stay with the Rl-p's the rest of the way up to the 80Hz x-over point. This is using 1cuft with 1 sub at 630w input. I'm not sure how accurate this program is at comparing subs, though, and I know the in-car response will not be the same as what this program dictates. Any input?

5F cap More than enough power. Thanks!

Also, how would a pair of RL-p 12 D4's in those boxes compare with the Icons?

Well, a lot of it has to do with cost, and the rest the fact that even if i do get new boxes, i am still constrained, space wise, to the areas the current ones are in. I have to be able to get the spare tire out in the event of an emergancy, and I have to be able to fit at least a couple bags of groceries in the space GM calls a trunk. Those that aren't familiar with the GTO, behind that amp board lies the gas tank, so the space you see there, is all of it. Are the Icons efficient enough to really get a good use out of the power I've got? If I did redesign the boxes (but keeping them n the same area, possibly raising them slighty to get a few more cubic inches out of them), would there be something better to put in there that would still meet the other requirements?

A 15 definitely wont work. Here's a pic of the trunk: Again, I would really like to use the boxes I already have, because they cost me $450 and I can only go with a custom fiberglass job due to space (and the need of accessing the spare tire - it's a daily driver), which wold easily cost that much again to have redone. If I go with one, it has to be a single 4 or dual 2, and if I go with 2, they have to be single 2's or dual 4. Thanks again!

Hmmm... Been into car audio since 1987, and not once, ever, in my life, have I paid MSRP. Anyone that does is an idiot. If a shop refuses to "make a deal", it's time to find another shop... you know.. one that actually wants to make money. Most reputable shops/salesmen know that there is exponentially more money to be made with repeat business than the one time sucker sale. True, but I'd bet at least 75% of enthusiasts don't realize that you can get more for less. That's why places like Best Buy and Circuit City still have install shops. Most people don't know about the internet based companies and the like. Internet wasn't around in the late 80's. However, that aside, 90% of my system came from HiFi Buys. Just gotta find a salesman that likes to make sales.

Are you a ricer? There is a difference between modifiying a car, and being a ricer... a HUGE difference. Study what rice actually is... you very well may fall in that category, I don't know, since I don't know you.

Hmmm... Been into car audio since 1987, and not once, ever, in my life, have I paid MSRP. Anyone that does is an idiot. If a shop refuses to "make a deal", it's time to find another shop... you know.. one that actually wants to make money. Most reputable shops/salesmen know that there is exponentially more money to be made with repeat business than the one time sucker sale.

Not attending rice-fest 2007.

In order to get to where I REALLY wanted to be with this sub thats the way it went. I wanted to make it pretty much bulletproof when a pair is attached to an SAZ-1500D *laughs* Make no mistake... they will handle more power but the rating will be 1000 watts RMS. I won't cover burnt coils due to abuse since someone would literally have to TRY to tear one up with under 1500 watts on it. Clipping will fry the coil much faster than over powering.. and one doesn't have to "try" to tear it up for that... stupid is enough (or ignorant, but ignorance can be cured).

http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Audiopipe_GD-6001/ Appears to be a decently built amp from the photos... but I think 2Kw is being a tad optimistic..

Was there some major turn around in recent years or something?? Back in the day they were "mediocre" at best.

I'd go with the US Amps, but I'm a little biased.

I am looking for some high quality, high efficiency, 2 ohm 6 1/2 components for my GTO. They will be running off of a US Amps USA-4300x. Sound quality is most important with output being a very very close second (hence wanting 2 ohms and high efficiency). So, any suggestions for high quality (in sound and build), high output 6 1/2's? Price cut-off is < $500

I guess I'm still too "old school" where speakers reached 98db @ 1w/1m. If I just used the Bostons, I have another problem. My current car has two locations for 6.5's, and none for 5.25's. I have one set of each. I also have the older version of them and am not sure how well they will compliment the newer version. Specs of mine: ProSeries 6.5 Nominal Size 6 1/2 inches (165mm) Recomended Amplifier Power 20-400 watts Frequency Response 50Hz