ener.g

back to hittin hard.. sounds a little different than before with the new style cone, not sure if its that or if my old one was getting a soft spider.. this one is a lot deeper..

spider separated from the basket.. must have cranked it too early before the epoxy dries, i have never "broken a sub in" when i get them its beat em right out of the box, but this one, seeing as how it was fresh epoxy and solder, and the first time i rebuilt a sub, figured i should go a little easy on it.. re-epoxied the spider on, not playing it till tomorrow this time lol

that was my first thought, checked that and it was all good. its not that i'm being lazy, its an 18" sub the box aint very easily removed by my self, since this is the first sub i've ever reconed i wasnt sure if maybe i just needed to break it in more and it would go away or what the deal was, didnt wanna pull it for nothing..

just finished reconing my 18" BTL a few days ago.. been breaking it in at low volume.. after i thought it was broken in, i turned it up slowly and as i started getting to about 1/4-3/8s level of where i would normally play at my sub makes some what of a clicking noise to the sound of the bass, kinda sounds like plastic on plastic nocking/rattling.. any ideas from any one here as to what it could be ? havent pulled the sub out of the box yet to check anything, dont want to if i dont have to..

resistance on the other coil was .9 ohms when i tested right at the terminals.. i did solder the tinsel back on but i had like 3.4ohms resistance on that side and .9 on the other so i dont want to fuck the amp up and play it.. new cone is on the way

the damage.. ~2 years of about 3500 watts rms .. cant complain .. lol

hooked up to the leads outside the box, look at the pic.. lol easier to explain

exactly so when its broken off the terminal.. and the leads are hooked up to the terminals there is an open between the voice coil and the terminals..

broken lead would = open in circuit .. shouldnt have had an ohm reading.

pulled out the subs found one of the tinsels broken.. dont know how to explain having 2.1 ohms of resistance.. oh well recone on the way thanks for the replies..

checked the fuses.. all ok... was the first thought then stopped because my interior speakers are still working..

just crusin didnt even make it off my street sub up like half way.. sub cuts out, amps not in protect, no sound whatsoever out of the sub... pull out the DMM.. 2.1 ohms resistance at the wires out the sub (my dual 1 BTL in series) ok.. sub is not blown? set to voltage.. check the outputs on the amp got fluctuation in voltage with music on, unplug the RCAs voltlage stops fluctuating.. so i figure I'm getting signal from the amp, from the headunit, to the sub... where the hell is my problem I'm stumped.. Dual 1 ohm 18" BTL in 6.7 cubes@31hz in series to 2ohms Hifonics XX-Cyclops wired to 2 ohms ~3KW RMS been running it this way for about 2 years maybe longer.. didnt change anything in the way the sub was being used

damn so dissapointing.. lol some one sell me and old BTL ! haha

a little bit off the shoulders hearing that, i was thinkin the same thing about shared chambers being a bad idea and the same amp, i guesss my biggest problem is i just wanted to keep my same amp (for cost reasons) and drop it to 1 ohm to run the 2 BTLs at 2000w RMS each and each in about 7cubes at 31hz.. i dont know how the amp will divide up the power evenly between two different motor designs.. or if it will be safe at all.. thing is i want to go louder and spend as little money as possible lol as most people do, the design change is killing me even if it was for the better of the woofer...

seems almost impossible to find one with the same options as mine and be an 18... so shitty they had to change it.. gonna cost me so much extra money