crackinhedz

Im using a CarPC myself, but the Clarion NX807 headunit has optical output. http://www.clarion.com/us/en/products-personal/multimedia/NX807/hilight/index.html#Fm-1Anchor I honestly don't notice a big advantage of optical vs rca sound quality wise, but an optical connection does reduce chance of ground loop hiss between headunit and amps (But thats a problem should be corrected anyway with proper grounds). As mentioned the car environment makes it a challenge to discern high resolution audio/processing. With that said, I definitely prefer the use of a DSP for tuning vs not having one. Newer DSP's are starting to accept USB audio, so potentially could straight usb from the phone?

While 4K has been the latest craze, its not leaps and bounds better than 1080p especially at viewing distance vs screen size. Can be negligible. What you should look for to be 'next gen' so to speak is HDR (High Dynamic Range). This is where vast improvements will be made, as more content begin to utilize this feature. Thats a feature Id look for in a newer TV. Something like this may fit your budget and needs: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/hisense-55-class-54-6-diag--led-2160p-smart-4k-ultra-hd-tv-with-high-dynamic-range-black/5524900.p?skuId=5524900 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01E6PGT90/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499174136&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=55H8C&dpPl=1&dpID=518-TDLzyJL&ref=plSrch

Very nice! I want to get my wife a radio with Carplay too! Excellent job on that enclosure! wow.

1400rms @ 2ohm vs 2000rms @ 1ohm, would be splitting hairs. Not to mention the amp would run more efficient at 2ohm, with less chance of any [more] strain on your electrical. You gain the extra 12" cone surface, while not risking electrical. Thats my $.02

Call it a day.

No, stick with your 2ohms. The amp you linked does 1400rms @ 2ohm. This ^^^

There may be other ways to wire (beyond my knowledge), I just go by the wiring diagrams here: http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp

You can wire a single dual 2ohm sub into either 1ohm or 4ohm two dual 2ohm subs can wire to .5ohm, 2ohm or 8ohm

wiring for two 2ohm subs, your options are .5ohm, 2 ohm or 8 ohm. (Unless you go the amp each sub route, but not necessary) I think youd do well wiring for 2ohm, you can find a good class D amp (I have a Hifonics amp I used at 2ohm @ 1400rms). I doubt youd notice a difference between 1000rms a sub vs 700 rms a sub plus will be easier on your electrical.

something like this might work: 2.4" depth https://www.parts-express.com/morel-msw-265-shallow-classic-series-8-composite-paper-cone-woofer--297-008

So after a very long hiatus from this site, I wanted to post some updated pics of where Im at currently. Originally I started out with a couple pioneer shallow mounted subs, which were great. But always left me wondering what more I could get, so I found SSA and picked up a single 15" Xcon. I absolutely loved it. Except it was in a huge rear firing ported enclosure. Then I started having kids, and the need for my cargo space forced me back to a shallow mount option using two Sundown SD3 12"s. Again, this left me wondering "what more?". Anyways, after I bought my first Xcon I loved it so much I bought a second. But I just never had the opportunity, until now....8ft^3 Not completely finished and also added some A pillars and was able to fit some 10"s in the doors! (HAT L3v2 & Dynaudio MW182) Initial impressions... Holy Shit. Now I hate my sunroof.

Thanks! Still needs some EQ work, but I'm getting there.

Yeah, I will probably leave them alone. The black looks good, but the contrast of beige/black stands out while driving and can be slightly distracting. Definitely took some getting use to. I am using an e3io CarPC via Optical to a Mosconi 6to8v8 dsp.

My buddy Alex made the pillars, and he happened to have a friend who does auto upholstery in NC, so the vinyl wrap was no problem. They look really good in person, and the color match almost exact. Though it took some getting use to pillars while driving, gave me almost a tunnel vision feel but that has since gone away I don't notice them as much anymore. I thought about and tried a beige speaker grill cloth, but couldn't get the grill back on. I might try painting the grill, but for now Im ok, they still look so good.

Hey if the size and mounting is similar to the L3v2's and you need someone to give a review I'd gladly accept a pair.

Thanks!

I think if you made a nice 8" midbass that wasnt too deep for most doors, that could play low 50-60Hz range at a fair price point you will have a winner. Im thinking along the lines of a JLzr800 Also a 3" or 4" widebander...might even attract the sq crowd. Im not even using tweets at the moment, my midranges from 350hz-20k ... Also helps I can't hear above 16k anyway.

Crazy that my 6.5's were a deeper fit.

Not sure of the exact port measurement, but its tuned to 33 HZ. It moves a ton of air! Has definitely brought out all the rattles I never knew could exist. I sound deadened as much of the car as I could, clv, ccf, mlv etc. My sunroof being a weak link as I could not fully gain access for more deadener, I did what I could. I'm sure being upfiring subs plays a part in that. I metered 143db with a single Xcon 15" on 1400rms, cannot imagine what I'll be with two 15' on 1000rms each. Definitely more than I will ever need. These Xcon's are my holy grail subs, no desire to upgrade from these ever. The be all, end all for me.

It sounds excellent! (to me of course) I need to work on EQ a bit, but truly my best setup. It has taken many expensive years of trial and error but I feel I have obtained my ultimate goals, my audio nirvana. Sound quality first and foremost, with capability to just be stupid loud. (Though I prefer SQ). While maintaining sufficient cargo space for travel and groceries.

Also, all credit goes to Alex (WhereAmEye? on DIYMA) for the awesome A-pillars and David Berger for the sub enclosure and rewiring of the system.

Thanks! Yeah Hyundai definitely left some room to work with. OEM was 6.5's, no real metal cutting except for a small gap to ensure speaker terminals never touch any metal. I had some RE XXX 6.5"s, which were 3.25" deep! These Dynaudio's only 3" deep. The diameter had me a little worried, but it all actually fit. A tight fit, but it worked!