nadcicle

If you use them incorrectly they absolutely suck. They are meant to bite on to hard woods like birch and plys. If you're using mdf you can try hurricane nuts and they work a lot better than t-nuts for that purpose I feel.

Lets compare! I love this part. Here is the 80PRS 3-Way Network Mode (NW): This mode lets you create a 3-way multi-amp, multi-speaker system with separate speakers for reproduction of high, middle and low frequencies (bands), each driven by a dedicated power amp using the head unit's three 5-volt preamp outputs. The 3-way network mode provides network and time alignment functions; two functions essential for a multi-amp, multi-speaker system to enable precise control over settings for each frequency range. The 3-way network mode also enables low-pass, high-pass, level, and phase adjustments.Time Alignment: The time alignment function lets you adjust the distance between each speaker and the listening position from 0 to 160-inches.High-Pass Crossover Filter: The HPF cuts frequencies below the set frequency (1.25, 1.6, 2.0, 2.5, 3.15, 4.0, 5.0, 6.3, 8.0, 10.0, or 12.5 kHz), letting high frequencies through to the connected speakers.Low-Pass Crossover Filter: The LPF cuts frequencies above the set frequency (25, 31.5, 40, 50, 63, 80, 100, 125, 160, 200, or 250 Hz), letting low frequencies through to the connected subwoofers.Mid-Pass Crossover Filter: This allows you to set a LPF frequency (1.25, 1.6, 2.0, 2.5, 3.15, 4.0, 5.0, 6.3, 8.0, 10.0, or 12.5 kHz) and HPF frequency (25, 31.5, 40, 50, 63, 80, 100, 125, 160, 200, or 250 Hz) to allow only a specific range of frequencies to played through the connected speakers.Slope: You can adjust the HPF/LPF/MPF slope for each speaker unit connected - LPF Slope (-36, -30, -24, -18, or -12 dB/oct), MPF (-24, -18, -12, -6, or 0 dB/oct), and HFP (-24, -18, -12, or -6 dB/oct).Level: You can adjust the level of each speaker unit connected - High Frequencies (-24 to 0 dB), Mid Frequencies (-24 to 0 dB), and Low Frequencies (-24 to +6 dB).Phase: You can switch Phase (Normal or Reverse) for each speaker unit's input signal.Mute: You can mute each speaker unit (filter. When a speaker unit (filter) is muted, no sound is output from that speaker. And here is the x5700 again Network: Allows you to set the high-pass and low-pass crossover network for a complex 3-way speaker system with Highs, Mids, and Sub using low-level outputs only.Highs: The high-pass crossover for your tweeters can be set to 1.25, 1.6, 2, 2.5, 3.15, 4, 5, 6.3, 8, 10, or 12.5 kHz with a -6 to -36dB/octave roll-off.Mids: You can set a high-pass and low-pass crossover from your midrange/midbass drivers. The high-pass crossover can be set to 1.25, 1.6, 2, 2.5, 3.15, 4, 5, 6.3, 8, 10, or 12.5 kHz with a -6 to -36dB/octave roll-off. The low-pass crossover can be set to 26, 31.5, 40, 50, 63, 80, 100, 125, 160, 200, or 250 Hz with a -6 to -36dB/octave roll-off.Lows: The low-pass crossover for your subwoofers can be set to 26, 31.5, 40, 50, 63, 80, 100, 125, 160, 200, or 250 Hz with a -6 to -36dB/octave roll-off. So at first glance you actually gain a couple extra octaves in the slopes on the highs/mids on the new dd unit. However, that goes without saying that you can likely be losing separate speaker volume control and phase as I didn't read that in the manual. I may have just overlooked it though!

Pretty much all of the newer Pioneer double din's offer active capability that end in 700 From the AVH-X2700BS through the AVH-X5700BHS including the single din flip outs AVH-X6700DVD and AVH-X7700BT I believe these are included as well. I grabbed some key points for the 5700 to help with your decision. Now these aren't the greatest, but it just shows that there are options out there. Note: The rear speaker outputs can be set to provide full range output with full fading capability, or they can be set to provide non-fading subwoofer (low-pass) output. When the rear speaker outputs are set to subwoofer mode, the rear preamp outputs also switch from full range to subwoofer outputs. When set for subwoofer operation, you can connect the rear speaker leads directly to two small 4-ohm passive subwoofers or a dual voice coil sub with 4-ohm voice coils. If you prefer to use a single 2-ohm subwoofer, you can connect the woofer to one set of speaker leads, leaving the other set of rear leads disconnected. The maximum output provided when a 2-ohm load is connected to one set of leads is 70 watts. 4V/6CH Preamp Outputs + Sub Control: The Pioneer AVH-X5700BHS features three pair of 4.0-volt preamp outputs (Front/Rear/Subwoofer). The unit's front and rear preamp output can be faded (front/rear), while the subwoofer preamp output is non-fading. The Pioneer AVH-X5700BHS lets you adjust the subwoofer preamp output's phase (normal/reverse) and volume (+10 to -24). Crossovers: The AVH-X5700BHS employs high-pass and low-pass crossovers to tailor the head unit to your connected speaker setup. Standard: Allows you to set the high-pass and low-pass crossover network for a standard Front, Rear, and Subwoofer speaker setup using either speaker-level or low-level outputs.HPF: The head unit's -6 to -24dB/octave high pass filter only allows frequencies higher than those in the selected range (50, 63, 80, 100, 125, 160, 200Hz) to your front and rear speakers through the unit's speaker-level or line-level outputs.LPF: The subwoofer preamp output features an -6 to -24dB/octave low pass filter so only frequencies lower than those in the selected range (50, 63, 80, 100, 125, 160, 200Hz) are output to your connected subwoofer.Network: Allows you to set the high-pass and low-pass crossover network for a complex 3-way speaker system with Highs, Mids, and Sub using low-level outputs only.Highs: The high-pass crossover for your tweeters can be set to 1.25, 1.6, 2, 2.5, 3.15, 4, 5, 6.3, 8, 10, or 12.5 kHz with a -6 to -36dB/octave roll-off.Mids: You can set a high-pass and low-pass crossover from your midrange/midbass drivers. The high-pass crossover can be set to 1.25, 1.6, 2, 2.5, 3.15, 4, 5, 6.3, 8, 10, or 12.5 kHz with a -6 to -36dB/octave roll-off. The low-pass crossover can be set to 26, 31.5, 40, 50, 63, 80, 100, 125, 160, 200, or 250 Hz with a -6 to -36dB/octave roll-off.Lows: The low-pass crossover for your subwoofers can be set to 26, 31.5, 40, 50, 63, 80, 100, 125, 160, 200, or 250 Hz with a -6 to -36dB/octave roll-off.EEQ (Easy EQ) w/ 13-Band Graphic EQ: There are seven stored equalizer curves which you can easily recall at any time. You can choose from - Powerful, Natural, Vocal, Super Bass, Flat, Custom 1, or Custom 2. The Custom 1 and Custom 2 EQ modes allow you to manually adjust the level (+/- 12dB) of each band of the head unit's 13-band graphic equalizer (50, 80, 125, 200, 315, 500, 800, 1.25k, 2k, 3.15k, 5k, 8k, and 12.5k Hz). Auto EQ (Optional): The auto-equalizer automatically measures your car's interior acoustic characteristics, and then creates an auto-equalizer curve base on that information. The Pioneer CD-MC20 Auto-EQ microphone (130CDMC20, sold separately) is required to use this function. The Pioneer CD-MC20 Auto-EQ microphone plugs into your compatible Pioneer A/V receiver's rear-panel AUX 3.5mm input. The Auto-EQ microphone should be placed in the center of your vehicle's driver seat headrest facing forward for EQ measurement.

The only way to run this amp with those 6x9's worthwhile is to go to the amp and set the filter for the channels you are using to "OFF" and use the ones on your headunit. The only thing your amplifier should be doing is amplifying the power at this point while the headunit will be doing all of the frequency equalization. Go to your headunit and set your headunit cutoff the hp at 63hz-80hz depending on how well your doors respond to playing that low of a frequency then turn your headunit to around where you would normally listen and turn up the gain on the amplifier until your reach optimal listening level while sounding good. If you need help with the crossover settings on your headunit please provide the make/model of your head unit as well.

Stand up guy here. Wouldn't hesitate to do any business.

What kind of 15's would you be using and in what vehicle? Sometimes space becomes a factor when you're dealing with the shear amount of amps. I'd think with a ton of amps that phase alignment might be something that would have to be held accountable. I'd personally go with the tfe 8.0's over the others mentioned simply because it's more power.

I've always mentioned using DDMTuning whenever possible since owning my old 97 M3 a long while back. I have since only used them for HID's and LED's, but they still carry all the desirable interior/exterior parts for most e36,e39,e46, and e90 series.

Looks like Sketchup

I'd leave what you have in there and run the extra wire to a distro block like these http://www.roseautoacc.com/24-hole-aluminum-distribution-blocks/ then go straight from there in to reducers http://www.roseautoacc.com/1-0-to-4-gauge-stud-reducers/ if you already have the wire or just make super short runs of 4awg ofc

Much like Julian said one would leave a couple inch void and fill it entirely with sand to decrease in overall used wood while adding density. This sand fiberglass thing sounds bassackwards since you would normally have to sand down the surface smooth afterwards and all sand would do is create roughness to the surface. That is unless they were going for that sort of thing. I could see it adding texture close to that of bedliner when painted.

Looking good, ever need any testing done vs a SPL Lab meter or a specific phone type lemme know as I have access to a few phones.

Yah, much like HV there has already been talks of making a lead acid only class since all the caps and lith batt talk having a great advantage. A power source should be a power source no matter what way you look at it. The most generic way of limiting someone should be clamping power so that is why most organizations (if they haven't already) are switching back to clamped power from the amplifier itself.

Any chance you have some specs on this? The way i've always understood it would be something like replacing the ah in a 100ah would go as follows. We will use your 2 amp method of charging a bank of 430v batteries back up to their 100ah capacity. Let's assume we have only depleted 10% of the 100% capacity and we are down to 90% charge. Then we take the 10ah missing and divide that in to (.9x2) = 5.5 hours. According to these guys running this HV equipment they swear they can run a month on said equipment without ever needing a recharge. I wouldn't call 5.5 hours forever in charging, but it is quite a while if you don't drive your car a whole lot.

This! mixed with daylight savings time I have no light when I get home from work either.

Great part about this is that some of these huge power making amps have built in charging on them as well. For instance, run a 400vdc side and a 12vdc side from the main alt and you can switch from the amp working off of the 400vdc to it being charged through a converter that takes 12vdc and makes it charge your 400vdc bank. Kinda neat stuff in my opinion.

Shh, his alt is capable of time travel. Sort of like Hot tub time machine.

Problem sounds like it might be because you are trying to sell too local. Just about everyone from forums interested in any car audio equipment have moved to Facebook car audio classified sections now. Whether it is Car audio buy, sell, wtb or Amplifier classifieds to car audio classified subsections you are opening your buyers market up tremendously. Just be careful to sell to someone that has had an established account and not some new account that just started out. Sub and box combos are always a hard sell period because of nobody shipping.

I can't see pics at work, but is this the 1 ohm or 2ohm model?

As someone just observing this thread I see value in both of your views. Build is looking good too!

For comparisons sake just know that the n3 is quite easily in the top 5 of the neo motors in existence. In no particular order There is even an alibaba neo motor that has people scratching their heads right now. A 4" model and a 3" model of it are supposed to be available with talks of group buys to keep cost down. Personally any of these would be a good choice for motors. All of the subs are built differently and I mean way differently. I'd only consider maybe 2 of these to be a daily musical sub and the rest are pretty much made for throwing watts to. 1.) DdZ (A few different iterations) 2.) Fi N3 3.) EMF Yolo 4.) DC Neo 5.) TC pro 5100 6.) Red star neo 7.) Fi N2 8.) IA Warden 9.) Illusive B2 audio Neo RS

I really like the formica look. I have it on a box right now and think it looks pretty good and seems easy enough to do with rough cutting to approximate size then taking a flush trim bit and trimming excess. Thing that gets me going is how the pro cabinet makers get the seems to line up with an almost seemless edge. All my edges look like raw material as to where theirs you can't tell where it stops and starts half the time. As for vinyl, I have learned after working with some ebay crap that 2 way stretch with a heavy cloth backing is the only way to go to get the look most like. It is significantly more expensive too though so that's why i believe so many deal with 1 way stretch and heat it to get it the way they want it instead.

I'm curious as to which driver it is as well since you're crossing them to 63hz with a 12db slope and I haven't seen any of their drivers go reasonably below 100hz in the 8" range except their 1 single neo driver that toots going down to like 62. I was actually looking at their entire 10" lineup and nothing looked good on paper for my application. Not a single driver that gets down to 40hz and none with a 3" or better VC. I have heard 2 setups with these and 1 sounded absolutely horrible, but loud. The other sounded great, but he had drivers all the way up to 15" in size and so many of them it didn't matter. I'd be willing to try the 10" size again depending on your end thoughts.

'Merica They are hand built and even magnetized here. There was a video floating around of the magnetization procedure at one point.

Seeing the dB to Frequency graph helps a ton when trying to determine how "flat" a setup is. It also helps to determine peak frequency when is extremely close to other frequencies. I see this as being a swipe right to be seen kind of thing and swipe left to see dB score.

I see something about trident amp tech and triton subwoofer? Yah i thought it was triton as well.