nadcicle

Playing around I hit like a 128 on my 6.5" door speakers getting like 100 watts a piece at 45. That's a very low goal like SpeakerBoy said. Give us some more info about the setup and the car it's in and perhaps where you want it to meter at and I'd venture to say you should raise that goal to a 140 instead.

Lol, you're killing me. I'm pretty sure its "Singer" and not "Stinger"

If they are internally regulated to begin with no. You would have to change them to be externally regulated. XS and Mechman make these "voltage trick" modules that make the alt think they are seeing less voltage than they are putting out and increase output voltage accordingly. Once again this can cause issues if they are originally not set to the same output voltage to begin with because you'd be increasing voltage between the 2 as follows. If alt A starts at 14.2 and alt B starts at 14.8 and you increase the voltage of alt A to 15 then alt B will be increased to 15.6. Voltage will never correlate to more amperage in this case anyways. I think you're on the right track of more amperage to begin with. Holding voltage is the better focus here in this case.

I'm still disappointed that I didn't get to hear it with everything hooked up first.

Yah, They're an investment, but remember you are paying for custom made resin bodies, not the drivers themselves really. He has had them ranging anywhere between 250 - 700 bucks. The pro mini's are about equal to some of the older ID pro/ultra series so in all actuality it's quite a deal considering those went for like 900 - 1200 bucks.

I've heard multiple times that the amperage of the 2 doesn't matter, but it can be an issue if they both charge at 2 different voltages. I'd say isolate the factory alt to the truck along with mids/highs and dedicate the HO alt to the battery bank in the back. Just my opinion if you aren't sure if they match voltages. FWIW, some alts do 14.2, 14.4, 14.8, etc

Dunno what you find too "Ritzy" , but might as well get the full Nashville effect and stay at the Opryland hotel I guess. Going downtown and taking a horse ride with the Mrs is kinda cool too. Stay away from the Dickerson Rd area unless you're in to the prostitute thing. Oh, and we have most of the upper class people living in Belmont, Franklin, and Brentwood areas. Oh, and a ride on the General Jackson is always nice too. http://www.generaljackson.com/ http://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/bnago-gaylord-opryland-resort-and-convention-center/

But but, it's Sonic.. it has got to be the truth! lol

eric@ejsaudio.com for Eric Stevens (For horns/bodies)

After looking through my diagram it's nothing like this. Matter of fact I ended up finding this post explaining that the external relay was for a DC alt for his. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/139757-need-help-guys-wiring-up-my-new-mechmans/

My apologies, my work blocks pics. I have that diagram somewhere around here.

The blue wire simply needs to go to a switched power source. That should have been it I believe. Correct me if I'm wrong. Assuming this was internally regulated of course.

I'm sure you checked batteries already, but I don't think we're all alone in calling it impedance instead of resistance most times.

I'll follow up with my used subs tomorrow. I know new wasn't fair now that I think about it.

So is it doing this with 1 or both coils on all of them, or just kinda here and there or what? Made a quick video to show how quickly it settles on a fresh recone (Still processing higher resolution). Results vary a bit it seems. Also, disregard the setting the phone down to test out the second sub. The moment i set it down the magnet made the video stop. lol

I felt that truthfully you were still getting the fluctuation with the direct leads as well. Thing is, with a higher impedance it was just more noticeable is all. I would venture to say the issue is under the dustcap where the leads meet the coil now unfortunately. I am going to go check my reconed ones now that you mention it. I will make a video to see if it does anything similar.

Had similar issues. I've noticed it does it with some meters and not others. Did it to a Klein, but not my Fluke. Move the meter itself as far out of the field of magnetism as possible and see if it does it more/less?

Got my shipment in from Jimmy Zukauska Testing these out to see how they compare to others. Look real nice being machined and all. Big plus is they are screwed in from the sides as well. This will be my first time going with dual alts. Two Mechman elite 370's should handle a good amount of demoing.

I have mini's and ID X65's and I will say lol. No way they come close to being good enough to come close to matching the extension you need to be considered a "good" match. I guess I'm just being particular to something that can extend down to at least in the 50hz range. It doesn't have to be done with authority or anything, but just being there is nice.

Not disagreeing totally, but my Rockford Pro Audio 10's are crossed at 50hz - 4khz and fill the gap quite nice and are loud and have good midbass aswell. I would say they would do well paired with some horns especially crossing the horns at 1.5k or so. I will say Senchez's 12's are even more awesome. But not many people are prepared to run such a large driver up front. Do note I said midrange. Plenty of ways to do this, but I'd definitely be running a 3 or 4 way if I really needed output. Agreed, same reason why I never mentioned midrange either. Midbass would be the only benefactor here. I wouldn't have it any other way

I will never say that horns are a bad thing since I run horns in both my rides, but be prepared for swapping out mids yet again. They simply don't make a 6.5/7" that gets loud enough with a good frequency bandwidth and sensitivity that can keep up with horns for a decent price. You will need to step up to a 10" or better to get the best of both worlds. Not sure how much it will affect you but full size horns just would not work in my model suburban, I had to run mini's. This will also impact how far down you can play with the horns themselves and also impact the type of mid you can run. On the mini's I can get down to 2k with the volume I have to play them at to keep up with the substage. You can play them at 1500mhz as long as you turn them back to 2k when you decide to get loud. 1500mhz does sound good, but then you are changing back and forth between it and the settings of your mid so you'll eventually just say forget about it and leave it at 2k. Point is, if/when you decide to get horns be more prepared than I was and go with a decent midbass speaker capable of playing low enough to make you happy and at least high enough to get up to where the horn drops off.

Is this box a window line box if so how tall is it trying to build me one for 3 18s I don't want to wall it off just want to know the height of yours. I'm going to be changing my class from local to national and running in two classes basic 4 and Kaos 2 (midwestspl) It's build to stay under the rear seat line. I do believe that the box itself is over that line when the subs are loaded. I will double check when I get home from work.

Well the time has come for me to go ahead and show some progress with the truck. This thing has been through hell and back with me from repairing the lower intake manifold to having its fair share of abuse from low tuning. The first setup consisted of 3 18's on 2 AQ 2200's strapped with a single XS D3100 in the back for support. Let's just say this didn't work and had me reconing the subs. Best recorded score of the 3 18's before blowing them. Sadly, I bought an alternator that was actually sitting in the backseat at the time I was giving a demo and blew the subs. Unfortunate for me, it was a fuckin Tenney that didn't work! It looked nice and legit though... After learning my lesson I had a holdover system that consisted of 4 12" Planet audio BB2 series on my strapped AQ2200's once again. This setup actually gave me my best score to date with a 52 at the headrest which I didn't take seriously since it was a burp box and never recorded it. Also, I never did manage to make a show before reconing my 18's and getting a 4th one as seen below. Well, This enclosure was originally intended for only 3 of the 18's since its net was only around 17 so it was time to build yet another enclosure. Yah, so adding the 4th sub actually dropped the frequency response and the score as well. I never got a good picture, but after displacement and everything I calculated right at 21 cubes here for the new enclosure. This was built to be super flat and boy did it play pretty much anything and sound awesome doing it. So that leaves me where I am today. I will go ahead and let the cat out of the bag and show my plans. I'm sure to forget something here, but here we go. Everybody likes pictures so I will let those do the talking. New enclosure: Batts: Amps, there are 2: Just a few Ethos : Few of these tiny things: About 8 of these: 6 of these... Hey they're not super tweeters dammit!: Oh, and a pair of these: Mechman Elite Was told the peak number was actually 386 in their record book. I felt it might have been a fib: I'll be sure to add more as it comes.

This is correct. The only headunit with built in processing that would likely do well would still be one that had an external module like a pioneer dex p9 or alpine with its external dsp. Even then there are tons of cheaper options to be had. I think you're on the right track with going for a minidsp as it's cheap enough that you don't feel ripped off even if you don't end up using it enough. Horns and their 6-8k hurt