shizzzon

I thought u were, lol.. I'm not anticipating the reimbursement... i want it to be hell messing with the DA or whoever to screw with paypal.. I do know the OP in the thread.. but this could happen to any of us and that isn't right. There has to be some sort of repercussion on the mediary side(paypal in this case) for wrongfully mediating the dispute.

That's terrible they're doing that. I mean I just can't believe it. Are you just messin with me? lol, or u know what's really goin on? I'll try and explain before i pass out.. Seller sold 2 10s to a guy.. Guy receives one.. goes to facility to sign for the other.. Tells paypal his 2nd one was empty.. Paypal told him to ship other sub back, they will pull money from seller for BOTH subs and that's it.. HOW DO YOU SIGN FOR A BOX AT THE FACILITY THAT WEIGHS ~60LBS AND IT BE EMPTY?? Someone is lying.. POS.. So the seller shows proof to paypal the Shipping receipts of 2 ~60lbs shipments but Paypal is REFUSING proof.. Because their TOS basically sides with the receiver under all circumstances.. SUE THEM SUE THEM SUE THEM. As soon as paypal pulls seller's money out.. it's DA time, AG time.. district attorney\attorney general... If paypal wants to play the money game, they should be sued. At the very least, they should let the carrier investigate.. but no..

Well.. based on something happening on CACO.. Paypal may no longer be suggested as a means of use for those using it to sell your used equipment.. Paypal is about to execute something fraudulent and when they do, many of us have ordered the OP to sue them by means of contacting the DA or AG, news, etc.. I'm too tired to talk about it right this second but Paypal is about to lose my vote for continued business in the Used market side of things. They are clearly opening themselves up for a lawsuit.

I don't know the application use for any of those definite, but find and rule these out- Make sure your adhesive works within the temperate ranges your car will see. I tried using Loctite 2 part epoxy one time in the car and stuff kept popping off.. Found out it was only rated for 120F. Make sure the adhesive can withstand 180F minimum (gorilla glue epoxy is rated for this and works fine) Make sure the adhesive adheres to plastic and\or metal. As far as i know, all 2 part epoxy resin\hardener does as it doesn't rely 100% on the material it's bonding to but the viscosity of the adhesion itself helps keep things in contact. Make sure the Pot life and Total cure time can be accomplished as well. That should be it.

yea, i dont think velcro would work on that period.. It's no surface area on the A pillar itself is the problem.

Yea, i need to make a ground block in the car soon.. I have butt connected 2 different ground cables behind the stereo like 3 times per cable from all this low amperage wiring.. Getting to be some spaghetti back there.

Just installed my first backup camera. That was easy. IT's not 100% wired up yet because i like to do things different, So i got one of those full license plate framed cameras. I drilled a hole, ran the wire through the back door, installed grommet and sealed it up well. Connected it to it's extension cable, taped it up and zip tied it in 5 places to ensure they will never disconnect. I have all my dc wires ran on the left side of the vehicle in the roof and all the AC wiring ran on the right side of the roof. I will have to pull the stereo out to finish hooking it up but i still need to do this- Run trigger wire from stereo to reverse light. Connect camera to stereo and run power and ground from the cable harness to wherever. Now, here is what i'm doing differently for my backup camera- My stereo triggers the rear view camera video input when the remote trigger senses voltage from the reverse light. I cannot manually just go to rear camera while i'm driving.... Well, not yet, So, i'll install a DP relay on the remote trigger wire from the stereo. What this will do is when it's NOT switched, the remote trigger will work normal, only sensing voltage when reverse light is turned on and i'm in reverse. When i flip a switch that controls the relay, the Remote trigger line will be CUT from the reverse light and fed directly from the battery giving it constant 12v allowing the stereo to view the rear view camera while driving. Simply turn the switch off and the rear view camera trigger goes back to normal sensing for the reverse light. This will not interfere with the reverse light whatsoever while driving so it will be pretty cool to be able to see what's behind you whenever you need to.

Do you know how many more days Pat is going to be testing? We do not know how long it takes to test and exactly what all he is testing again.

Heh, that's normal. They must LEARN how to operate. Go back and reread post #5.

Saw it on spankwire

Worse case scenario, you wouldn't be out $300, just sell the amp and get another one.

Hmm... Guess i need to get a stripper pole in mine soon to get the whole package deal.

Actualy, it's still uploading. He's uploading it shot in xHD 4K so that's why it's taking a little over 2yrs to finish on youtube

xs batts should rest no lower than 13.0v new. If they aren't, you need to be charging them.

that means you should inspect that they still rest at max potential and if they do not, then manually charge them. You can leave them in, just disconnect the ground cable. Sometimes u can leave the cables connected as long as their is no draw coming off of them. If it's just car audio related items on the batts, you should be able to leave them connected.

WASSUPPPPPPPPPPPPPP! I'm bleeding off my feeling right now.... Gotta be up in 4 hrs... Doesn't matter.. 4hrs is fine for me... It's 6hrs of sleep where i'm in harmony, hehe. Took a lot of backspaces to type that.. BTW... while i work on my new car right now.. i need to start looking into graphics and IAK stuff..

If i came off crazy, sorry but when i get in talks about thieves, i get extremely offensive\defensive quick because i've been broken into several times before in the past and i believe all thieves should get life in prison simply because of what's going on in their head to consider theft. IF you think ever you should steal from someone, then your whole life demeanor doesn't fit in with society and should be locked away. Statistically.. most people's thefts may not add up to a whole lot per incident therefore insurance is fine but when your vehicle is down for fixing what was done, that is time lost and time lost is money lost as well. Any vehicle i have must be protected as best as i know how. window breaking door picking slim jimming OBGII hacking towing No method is perfect because they would advertise how to protect it, lol I wish i could prevent vandalism but that's physically impossible. My vehicles get marked all the time. That's why i never pay attention to cosmetic detail.. it's pointless in my area. It's all about what you have inside where i live and what's inside needs to be protected. On my last car, just breaking the glass cost over $1,000 in elaborate repairs that was done 5yrs ago before i started using laminate. Cost for the glass, tint, scratches on the door, re-custom fabricate graphics on the car and then print them and install them(multi business labor here) Then car had to be moved back to the dealership to re-spray down protective coating to prevent paint from fading, chipping from typical environmental hazards. Again.. that's all just from breaking the side glass... That doesn't count the actual theft or vandalism of inside property. It racks up quick. That's my POV because anything done to my vehicles is going to be pricey and pricey protection is used on them. Now since i use laminate on them and other gadgets as well.. if and when they break from an attempted theft.. that's even more money the insurance must pay out but at least they won't have to pay for the vandalism\theft from inside which will potentially save them a LOT of money. I 100% understand your POV, let the insurance handle it in the long run because it will be cheaper... But most of us are crazy with modding our vehicles on this forum. In the world overall, no, but in this atmosphere and any other car forum, i would expect it to be the same. Racing, audio, cosmetic car club, etc.. lots of money tied up into vehicles. If we can prevent just 1 internal theft with protection, it would do us a big favor. IT's the downtime i do not like.. Somethings cannot be replaced.. Especially if everything was done yourself.. I wouldn't have the motivation to build the same thing twice if it were destroyed or stolen.

Battery tender takes way too long. Get an AGM charger that can do at least 15A on it's peak setting. If the batteries are brand new, do not charge them. Put them in vehicle and show them a few loads over a period of a week. Then, check their rest level after the car has been off for several hours. If they are not reading 13.0-13.2v, then hook them up to the charger and charge them. Once it's done, hook them back up to vehicle and check rest level again in a week. Batteries must learn how to operate and the best is to abuse them safely the first week.

My dad's truck got broke into in his own driveway in the backyard with the gate shut with TWO motion sensor lights in the backyard. So, no, i do not buy into the light it up argument. You want physical pain? Some people on here know what i'm about to do to my vehicle. I don't care how illegal it is.. bill me.. I currently have 2 130db Directed alarms on the outside of the vehicle... Soon.. I will have an imported Siren from china rated at 160dB. cost's $280 so we'll see how well it does. It fires in 2 different directions at once. I seriously do not think you should compare building theft to vehicle theft. There's a visual difference when it's happening.. Business theft.. nothing looks out of the ordinary unless there are 30 people there. Directed makes a glass break sensor but how they pulled yours out.. i doubt it would work since it measures sound. You would need a Prox sensor. As soon as the glass were to be moved, it would set the alarm off. Literally made me laugh. Does it ever happen when it warns twice because multiple people just walk by your car in the parking lot? Does it get annoying? I thought about it, but decided it might irritate me too much, or have me paranoid when I didn't need to be. I will be using a custom external prox sensor that will not be tied to the actual alarm. This custom sensor will send a trigger to a timer sensor that will send power to a "light source" warning anyone around the car that they are being watched. And yes... it will physically display those words too. I do not need to know when someone is close to the car but when someone is, that should be enough deterrent. IF they want to hear what 2 130s and a 160 sounds like, go right ahead and play around with it. PS- the Ace Laminate is the strongest laminate in the industry according to their motto. Level 3-thickest grade for vehicles. 14mil thick Tensile Strength- 28,000 PSI Break Strength- 350 PSI Rated for 1\8" thick glass adhesion. Cost- $8\sqft I paid $145 to have it installed on 4 doors, 2 small quarter panels and rear curved window. Here is a video showing it's brutalness- Security is all about slowing down the suspect. That's Step 1 security. I am looking at all angles that a NORMAL suspect would use under limited time to steal or gain access inside. Window break, door picking, slim jimming, OBDII Theft, Battery kill and vehicle theft(not towing) all made near impossible within a few minute time period. some of these are physically impossible such as slim jimming, door picking and OBDII theft Others like towing- go ahead and tow it.. I can track it. I'm very crucial about security. My car was broken into 5yrs ago NEXT TO A POLICE STATION. My dad's truck recently broke into as stated above in full lighted area. I don't go by general recommendations. When someone tells me if they want in, they'll get in or if they want something, they'll get it.. Well, that's like a statement of faith and without anything else to say.. the statement is invalid. If they truly want in or get something, then what is all the ways they will do it? That's where i attack at every angle. Unless a thief has 20min+, it isn't happening. I'm still working on finishing my security packages but mine is well over $2gs right now.

There is a kit i plan on purchasing but something doesn't add up and the owner of the product doesn't know the current ratings of his own product because he is refusing to answer that question.. Here is scenario- 4 strips of 225 3color rgb leds. the controller it's going to be on is rated for 18A max, 3 channel(6A per channel). Now, going by what i know.. typical LEDs pull 20mA. These are 5050 RGB leds which are really 3 leds per LED.. 5050s pull more than 20mA just in solid color.. So, even if i were optimistic and only counted 225 leds per run, at 20mA, that's still 4.5A per strip.. There's 4 strips and 3 channels.. I've told the owner this and they tell me- The details are the wiring is simple. Each ring is daisy chain connected to the next and all go to one controller. So one set of wires is all that goes inside the vehicle to one controller. Our controllers are specifically matched to our kits to handle the amount of lights we use with them. This way, we give you everything you need and nothing is under powered, fuses blowing, wires melting, ect. So if it works.. then it doesn't make any sense.. I can buy an amp for this controller.. but it specifically states if you use an amp and do not need it, it will damage the controller...

just because the voltage varies doesn't mean it's current output is limited. From what i understand, pcm controlled systems increase voltage with load demand so what's the problem? Even if it doesn't.. the current output would prevent the batteries from being drained.

i cant convince myself to get a or multiple cameras because of the following- Where are you going to point one for best effectiveness? Don't know.. need several... Ok, well nightvision cams will be $$$ especially a few of them. Then, you will need a DVR system and a dedicated batt bank for this thing every night.

I was about to say.. then you said it.. Ace. I would call them and tell them how they are doing it and see if ACE will help you with prying it out.

i'm used to oznium since they have all kinds of leds(but not the most inventory from other sites).. they have a single 5050 LED rated at 12v and i just downloaded their schematic drawing and it says they have a resistor but does not say what value it is. So what you said sounds more realistic to what's going on here.

If i was you, i'd be or had felt the same way no doubt. But long after the fact, i'd be giving myself headaches trying to figure out how the hell that happened. I remember one time when i was little, in elementary school, i was getting ready for school. My mom started yelling at me, not like i was in trouble but just to hurry up and get ready. I was sitting right next to her when she started the sentence.. To this day i remember this because it was freaky as hell.. After like the 2nd word in the sentence, my head(i'm using head because my head hurt when it happened) locked onto what she was saying in realtime and I audibly mimiced the rest of the entire sentence word for word at the exact same time at the same level she was talking in then the feeling "unlocked" and i was sitting there with a cold chill like.. um.. what the hell just happened? I have no where to start to understand that but it is freaky. I guess i should add, it wasn't my voluntary choice to mimic what she was saying either, it was like i was forced to.