shizzzon

Well, they stole over $2k from me. I had to get the insurance to approve this new install i'm doing so anything that gets damaged i dont have to worry about it. I'm in the PRP area but yea, I used to know someone who lived in Iroquois and i hated goin over there because it seems everybody in that area is just waitin to get in trouble somehow.

Well, kinda When he did tests at 0.7 ohms DCR or higher, that's safe. I've never messed with 0.6 DCR so can't comment on that, but i do know that 0.5 and lower DCR, is hella risky for daily. All it takes is for a very brief period where the rise falls below 1ohm, that's bad. I went back over his tests. He never did 0.7 dcr unless i missed it. He did do 0.6 which rose to 1.33 giving more than 3,200w. In my experience though with different enclosures, this one enclosure i had did not fall down that low in resistance until after 50hz. It was tuned to 29hz. After 50hz, it would draw this monstrous amount of current and would not be that loud at all. 6.5" midbass drivers could have been louder than what i was hearing when put in proper enclosures. The majority of the frequency range that was loud, 30-45hz, resistance stayed above 2.3ohms and where it peaked at was above 4ohms. It can be dangerous if you are unaware of the draw if you have an awesome electrical system. Reason being is, again in this instance with this enclosure i had, when it drew this monstrous amount of current, the sub wasn't even hardly moving. It had no way of cooling itself down as good compared to other frequencies. It was just being fed this power and practically just sitting there. Yea, johnecon2001, i overlooked the 1.33 reading on the 3000d. However even though i see it now, that rise "may", not guaranteed, only happen in the upper playable range where it probably needs to be x-overed at anyway. anything around or just after tuning should be very high.

man im was thinkin the BL could hold more above 1500 watts damn. but hey where u at in the ville. hang out sometime. and we can check each other system out and then ill steal urs lol j/k im at the Iroquois area Be careful what you say. I just had part of a setup stole from me 2 months ago. Have no idea who did it and it was across the street from the police station! I am still eager to meet the person who did it. Not saying you did but be careful because if i find out who did it, they goin to jail. And if they dont.... i will. The BLs can take power up to but no more than 2K but is not suggested unless you know exactly what to look for when building the enclosure and setting up amp(s).

i dont think there is just a one answer end all. Get some metal flex conduit and run it under your vehicle Run each run of 0 gauge through it. If you need to run more due to voltage drop, you know you can run more wire like crazy since running under is a lot easier than in the vehicle.

it's easily possible that you had your sub in a ported box with high group delay. Clipping sent to that type of install would be hard to hear.

This Pioneer Premier TS-W5102SPL, http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Pro...-W5102SPL?tab=B anyone ever seen these in action or know their potential personally? It's specs are questionable which makes me wonder how loud they can get. I know they were used in the comp vehicle which did over 180db but that means nothing to me. They could have done that with any other high powered sub i'm sure. Anyways, it says rated at 2,500wrms\6000w peak, only required to be in a 2.0 cuft ported enclosure but only 11.5mm xmax... I'm looking for loud daily but do not know if this is in the right category for my needs.

Ok, this is why people get confused - Now, i've been told to always use approx 16sqin of port per cubic ft. Sometimes 14 or maybe even 12sqin per cube. When reading the manual for this sub, it says in 2cubes ported, all you gotta use is 1 4" diameter port!?!? But with 2,500w of continuous thermal handling, port turbulence is probably enough to shoot the box out of the car, hehe. Why would Pioneer suggest that? I do not understand.

you gotta get that cd player secured. IF it's screwed\bolted down properly then put some rubber washers around the mounting holes to see if that helps. Does the cd player rest on anything other than the screws\bolts that hold it in?

noticed you in my city, phi. Now get OUT! just playin, haha. I hope you know what you are doing because a lot of those amps may require attention to the mechanical and\or thermal limits of 1 BL. And for whatever you do, don't get the XXV-Thor if being used for daily, get a BTL with that much power. Try and find you an amp rated between 1500-1800w. IF you do do with a 2kw amp, you may need to slightly attenuate it's output potential if the sub starts to heat up frequently.

but in a stable environment, you're not gonna get that much power in a daily setup. And that amp will never see a 1ohm load either during play unless it's wired in a "risky" installation. When i look for amps, of course i have to make sure it can safely handle the subs that will be wired to it. 1 D2 sub wired in parallel, need a 1ohm stable amp. 2 ohm ratings and higher are more relevant than 1 ohm. 0.7DCR to rise to 1ohm even would be so hard, i do not even know if that's possible, or at least in a ported enclosure. Typically, when i've tested setups, i see impedance rise at it's lowest point around double that of DCR on average. 0.9 rise to 1.7 at it's lowest point. Average anywhere from 2.2 - 6.x When you are going to be using an amp to push a sub's thermal limits, gotta know what it can do at the right resistance levels or one should step down the power altogether.

is the orion the only thing wired to the remote lead? Also, is the orion the only thing that has ever been wired to the remote lead?

you buy the sundown from this website. The Lanzar 6000D, type that in yahoo.com and search. there is a company selling it for $999+shipping somewhere, i've seen it. The Lanzar 2000Ds can be found on ebay or other places for about $338 per amp+shipping. Both Lanzar amps are the Optidrive line so they will be called Opti-6000D and Opti-2000D The sundown is SAZ-3000D. Email this website or email Sundown them self at www.sundownaudio.com to request a current price because you might be able to get it cheaper than 1099. Power ratings as i know them from memory- i do not know voltage drop off the top of my head but when i research wattage output, i'm only interested in voltage readings from 10.5-13.8v so keep that in mind. The following are rough and close approximations of real testing. Sundown 3000d - 2,500w at 2ohms 3,200w at 1ohms Lanzar 2000D strapped - 3,900w @ 1ohm 3,200w @ 2ohm 2,200 @ 4ohm Those tests were done on 13.8v. Lanzar 6000D - following test done on 12.6v 1,600w @4ohm 2,700w @2ohm 3,600w @1ohm following test done on 14.4v 2,100w @4ohm 3,600w @2ohm 4,800w @1ohm All of these amps are stable to run a dual 2ohm BTL wired in parallel. Note - If you like the Lanzar Opti-6000D's power ratings, that's why i mentioned above may need power attentuation. Look at the 12.6v rating - even @4ohm is 1,600w of power. That's almost a full 6x increase in impedance rise and with a crappy electrical system (which is worse case scenario), that amp can murder a BTL if not attenuated. The strapped 2000ds are not any better because the 4ohm level is actually higher than the 6000d and still as powerful at 2ohm as the 6000d. The sundown gives you a safety for a BTL install. I do not know it's 4ohm rating but 2,500w at 2ohm is close to max output what you'll get from music off of a dual 1.5 in parallel. If you get lower than 2ohms after rise on straight bass, be careful with the sundown too.

Here is a list of amps I'd recommend using and approx price, if I know it by heart, u can get them for that can get max potential, in my opinion, out of a single BTL- Sundown SAZ-3000D 1099 Lanzar 6000D 1049 may need slight power attenuation. Strapped Lanzar 2000ds (1ohm strapped stable daily) 768 if u need more options, let me know

Let me tell u what I have been told since u wanna use a 4kw amp. The btls use a 3" coil so constant power of over 1500w should not be done. Examples for a 4kw amp- Its most likely spec'd as- 2k @4ohm 3k @2ohm 4k @1ohm Wired at 0.7, even with a rise 6x DCR, it would still be overpowering it for long periods of time IF YOU WERE PLAYING TRACKS WITH NON STOP BASS such as test tones or some lil jon songs. If u plan on doing that, do for very short periods or u will start to heat it up too much. You can actually run as much as 3,000w of power, REAL POWER, but only if the audio tracks contain non continuous bass lines. At 3,000w however, caution needs to be taken so monitor heat buildup for a few weeks to determine if your setup is proper. 4k,in my opinion, shoul be the most powerful amp for a single btl for daily, though I would rather see a 3,500w amp instead for recomendation. Hope this helps everyone.

That is six flags kentucky kingdom. No disrespect to the place or the state especially since I live there but that is where that incident with that girl happened where part of her foot got cut. That was the reason for all of those types of rides to get sut down for investigation. The place is a great place for kids but if u like to travel, I favor Cedar Point as the grand tourist/amusement park out there!

Well that's better. I couldnt fold my back seats down and have a box lay down over it for daily. At least that was just for comps. I didn't want my car to look tacky with a daily setup like that so glad to hear that you have an alternative setup that doesn't require that. I've been doing drawings in CAD now since the VERY beginning of this year... yea that long. Gotta make sure i can find the most space and see what i can do to it's fullest... with the spare tire!!

I know why coils burn, But in the unlikely event anyway, they can still be reconed for a price so i'm not worried. Ps - when i was new to car audio several yrs ago, i set a sub on fire, haha, never thought it was possible. I know now and still there are a lot of people i tell that to and they don't believe that it's possible.

Been debatin on 3 10" bls or 1 15" BTL off of 4Kw. I'm thinkin about goin with 1 15" BTL so i got some questions. What options do i need exactly for the following scenario? - It's for daily, tuned to 33hz, running off of 4kw of power. No SPL but i will be playing, sometimes, bass tracks for show off purposes. Absolutely no clipping guaranteed. Let me know if this is correct or if i should change\add something- Cooling, HIXMcoil, 3rd mag(do i need?), Daily. Can the BTL take 4KW daily? I know Meade does it but is it still safe in Fi's eyes? And i would like a discussion on the cooling option. It states not to get it if used for SPL. Can someone please define what specifically is implied there? There is less motor strength there, that's the only thing i know... Is there a new power handling limit involved? What is determined to be SPL? Constant test tones? including varying tones? I'm trying to determine the effects of a 15" BTL of 4KW using bass tracks. SPL comp setups may induce clipping into their run but this is not the purpose for this setup if that is what is implied.... Any info on all this?

johnecon2001, i'm not so sure.. I seen this episode of cops one time where a cop asked if he can search this guys truck. He said no. The cop politely said, sir, because you have said no, this gives me probable cause that you are hiding something so he handcuffed him and made him sit down while searching his truck. I got pulled over a long time ago, bout 9 yrs ago for doin 56 in a 35. He asked if he can search the car, i said why? He said because if u don't i'm given you a ticket, hehe, i said go ahead. Of course he didnt find anything so he just let me go.

Ok, i just got done doin some more research over at DbDrag's site about the BTL's and readin some advice competitors were giving to people running it daily. The box i'll have is 3.8 Net which actually should do great! Here's the kicker - I'm in a hatch and i'm going to be building this box different than what i suppose to for a hatch. I know i'm going to lose some low bass output to the ear but this shouls still be hella loud- 3.8cubes Net @33hz Sub facing up towards glass, dual vents, one running along each side and end flush with the box pointing to the front of the car. The vents need to be over 30" a piece, that's why they are being wrapped around the box. I've done port forward setups before, just not any where the sub was facing up. I got some test boxes that a 15" BTL can fit in so i might do some testing once i order it to see. And yea, i think i'm gonna go with the BTL, that monster needs to be in my car.

he ports his to the rear. I used to own a car like that and i did the same thing. If they are anything like the AQs then they will dominate the lows with high output. I believe that's how the BLs are but let him tell you that since he's the one with the subs, hehe. You are going to need sound deadener, that's a given.

well, i just got done lookin at the install in the tC since i own the same car... I know some ways to gain more volume based on what i've been drawing in AutoCad vs what i see in that pic of the tC... He's in modified too and i can see that he is using part of the back seat area as the box. Unfortunately as a daily driver, i can't do that but still nice score.

haha, this is interesting. Everyone came to my city but i didnt go because for the past 6yrs there had been not much difference. I own an 07 tc and am studying this install, hehe

You are going to need an amp that is 4 channel and is stable down to 1 ohm per channel so you can bridge them @2ohms per side but i cant think of any of the top of my head or a 2 channel amp that can output some power @ 2ohms per channel.

3db is like doubling power or doubling the amount of drivers you have so it's pretty noticeable ON A MIC, not by ear. Although you may be able to tell by ear IF they really are 3db louder if you are so used to your Qs by now.