shizzzon

I've heard not to get a BTL unless you have at LEAST 2Kw, anything less than that, get the BL. According to Fi's website, the BLs are about 3db higher in efficiency than the Qs. If you do not think that's enough, either get more drivers, more power or build a different box.

ok, i understand that now, cool. Now onto the final questions, hehe. So i can run up to 4,000w of capable power to just 1 15 and it wants it... that's awesome. Comparison time - 3.8 cubes NET tuned to 32hz. My options are 3 10" BLs or 1 15" BTL. Now, i'm pretty sure 3 10s may exceed in that installation but if i feel that i do not want to go that route, you think 1 15" BTL in 3.8 NET is optimal enough for 4Kw? I believe that since i am giving it more power than usual that the box size should be a little on the smaller side, correct? The only true comparison is, there shouldn't be a noticeable difference between those 2 choices by ear correct? or which of the 2 would you go with if u were doing this? I love both setups, just cant decide.

oh, well then any one of those subs listed will work because you gotta build a box anyway. Well good luck.

No sir, have not listened to any of them. However, if you look, i did list all of the model numbers for each one so i suggest researching each one and see which one you like the best. The ones that do not have a box size listed, go to the manufacturer's website and read the manual for the sub or they might have the box specs right there. Make sure that whatever sub you choose can function properly in your door.

When you say lose acceleration and power... you are gonna have to talk to me like i'm a baby because i have never been serious in SPL comps so the anything related terminology-wise is just bla bla bla to me. Break it down for me, please. I know it loses motor mass but i dont know why that's bad and what happens with less motor mass. I know u said lose acceleration and power but you gotta break it down for me.

I like challenges http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Pro...allow/TS-SW841D That is a Pioneer 8" shallow mount driver. 120wrms\500w Peak sealed or free air use. 2.5" depth Kicker CVT 8" driver 200wrms\400w Peak Sealed or Ported 3 3\8th depth Earthquake SWS-8 150wrms\300w Peak in door or back dash installation 2 1\8th depth MA Audio MA80XE 250wrms\500w Peak sealed or ported 4.6" depth RE Audio RE8 175wrms\350w Peak sealed or ported 4" depth Polk Audio MOMO MM2084DVC 200wrms\400w Peak 4.25" depth Box size unknown MB QUART RWE204 150wrms\300w Peak 4.5" depth Box size unknown Selenium SEL-8PW3-SLF 125wrms\250w Peak 3.25" depth Box size unknown Infinity REF850W 200wrms\850w Peak 4.312" depth Box size unknown

One of the loudest songs i have ever heard is- Gorilla Pitz - Bring It That song, i believe, is illegal in bass race due to the bass being equivalent to test tones. It's either that or the other competition where you try to hold your highest average when playing a song. You are not allowed to play music whose bass is like test tones.

I'm pretty sure that battery cannot even be used for automotive purposes... and for the money, haha, that battery definitely...NO! 45aH for $133.... yea right... Plus, it needs 14.5-14.9v to charge which is pretty high for constant use and now for the really bad specs- 8 ohm resistance! Not, milli, 8 ohms!! There goes your alt and\or battery if you were pounding on your electrical system for months stressing it. Other bad part, cannot take a charge current of more than 22.5A... that's another problem.

Psychopathic Rydaz - Duk Da Fuk Down - Sound the Alarm Wolfpac - Something Wicked This Way Comes - Death Becomes Her V Sinizter - Hunting Season - No Thang Violent J - Wizard of the Hood - Bloody Dead Bitch Twiztid - the Green Book - Nikateen, Everybody Diez, Bobby's Dad Twiztid - Mutant Vol. 2 - The Transformation of a New Civilization Twiztid - Man's Myth Vol. 1 - F*ck You Twiztid - Freek Show - Mutant X, Leave Me Alone, Fall Apart, Bagz Tupac - 2Pocalypse Now - Violent T-Rock - Slang & Serve Vol. 1 - Nigga Yeen Know Triple Six Mafia - Underground Vol. 2 - Beat Down, Funky Town, Half on a Sac or Blow, No I'm Not Dat Nigga, Tear Da Club up Original, Blow a Nigga Ass Off Triple Six Mafia - Kings of Memphis - Powder Three Six Mafia - Da End - Where Da Killaz Hang(gangsta hardcore), Stomp Three Six Mafia - Da Unbreakables - Rainbow Colors, Dangerous Posse, Beatem to Da Floor Three Six Mafia - Choices 2 - One Hitta Quitta Tech N9ne - Vintage Tech - Intro Tech N9ne - Absolute Power - Imma Tell Surreal Killaz - The Black Mirror - The Hour Haz Come Super Villians - Hallowicked Happiness - Silence of the Hams Snoop Dogg - Top Dogg - Down for My Niggaz Sinister X - Hell Hath No Fury - Out to Get Me Shaggy 2 Dope - F*ck the F*ck Off - Forever and Always, Meltdown, They Shootin Roy Jones Jr Presents - Body Head Bangerz Vol. 1 - I Smoke I Drank ft. Youngblood If you need some more, i got PLENTY

yea, 150sqin is low but also not runnin a lot of power when talkin about 6 15s either. Turbulence is not as high. 150 isn't recommended of course but if you were desperate for area, i believe 150 is the lowest possible before turbulence begins to become a nuisance in your music. The rule of thumb i've read before is never go above 140ft\sec when it comes to turbulence. It becomes to audible in the music. For SPL, get the turbulence as low as possible.

ah ha, now i know. Factory internal amp must be 4 channel... or should be for this adapter. Any extra channels may not work considering this is a 4 channel adapter. You would take each of the 4 channels from your aftermarket HU and wire them into the INPUT on this adapter. You would then take all of the OUTPUTS from this adapter and wire them to your amp or wire harness in your car, however it is in there. This is just like trying to hookup an amp to a factory stereo, same concept. Use high level inputs because most factory stereos do not have preouts.

Might be wrong but it looks like an adapter made so that when you replace your factory stereo with aftermarket one, you can still use the factory amp in the car. And if that's correct it may do it by using High Level inputs rather than rca jacks. But details on that, i'm clueless.

In terms of helping the sound out, they work best with unregulated power supplies. Regulated ones will try to output the same wattage at any voltage level. Unregulated outputs greater wattage at higher voltage levels. Caps discharge very fast. Batteries may not discharge as fast as a cap can. I don't know if there is batts out there that can, maybe there is, i dont know. However, caps are only to be used on an electrical system that already is capable of handling the load. If your running 2000w of power and your car is striving to give you this power you want, a cap is only goin to help for about a few seconds until it's drained. After it's drained, if you're still playing music, you are not allowing the alt to recharge the cap since your electrical system is not strong enough. The cap would then make it even worse, trust me, i've done this experiment. Stock alt, stock batt - 2,400w audiobahn amp wired down to 0.5 ohms bridged!(never got a chance to measure output but it was a BIG difference compared to 1 ohm bridged) with 2 1F caps. Voltage would dip from 14.2v down to 10.3v. Removed caps, voltage would dip from 14.2v to 11.6v. Gotta have the power to charge before using caps. Luckily that amp wasn't a class d amp or i would of had some issues soon.

Port - With your planned setup, you should be able to make a port anywhere between 150 - 400 sq in of port. Good luck. Your setup is gonna be a lot larger than mine but that also has to do with my limited space.

the larger the box, the more efficient the box becomes but can lower power handling mechanically if not careful. My last setup was 1 15 7.5cubes @29hz loved it.

I work at a warehouse. I can't wait to get this setup started. Been without bass for 2 months, I'm fiending! Hehe

Well, i am thinking the sub moved too much which caused damage to his sub, what are your thoughts? That's the whole reason i had stated what i stated. Even though sealed, you can still bottom out a sub if the box is large enough. Though at 0.4, maybe that's too large for that power... I do not know because i know nothing of this sub. No, it didn't break anything. It was just to show the force. me and my friend would try to move the box ourselves and all it would do is rock the car back and forth like you were pushin it from both sides. Then we let it play music and well, you see what happens.

i dont refer to things below 20 hz as music either. This track i made i'm sure goes below but RoE wouldnt let me post the full 16 min video. When i refer to efficiency, i'm referring to the efficiency of the electrical system, not the amp, sorry if u misunderstood me. And about impedance rise- This video above, DCR is 0.7 ohms. Typical resistance rise over frequencies around 2.2-2.8 ohms. Rise at peak (31hz) was 4.3 ohms. When playing music, rise is always present, i know you know this but a lot higher than DCR. I was able to drop rise down to 1.6 ohms but no lower than that in that box. Bass tracks are a LOT stronger than music. This is what i am referring to when talking about 20hz and lower. That puts stress on electrical system. I don't see a need in amplifying that range because it's... well i'll leave it there.

have you ever done any setups in a car over 1,200w of actual real power? When you say proper, are you referring to sound deadening? I got a vid on RoE of where i added my own bass lines to the entire Another Brick in the Wall song, all 3 parts joined then slowed down. All the bass mostly is very low. This is from an older install i had. Now, if you're referring to sound deadening, then yea i understand about how 20hz or any very low bass will sound good if the car doesn't rattle but you are talkin about a lot of product there. Here's the vid, this is violent shaking, watch the box itself, it has 15 3\4" bolts bolted through the floor. A LOT of pressure - http://www.realmofexcursion.com/videos/Audioque/hd15.1.wmv

for the Noob's, using a SSF will prevent this problem because... the larger the box, the more efficient but generally the less power it can take without changing anything else. Most recent post - It will save on your electrical system the same way it makes the amp more efficient. If there was no SSF in use, then it can play frequencies as long as the amp can handle. Let's say the amp can handle 5 hz at it's lowest. Let's say that anything under 20hz is pointless to you because it starts rattle the hell out of your car and you hear more destruction than reproduction. That's wasted power. Let alone resistance rise may be very low in that range which would result in a lot of power draw. Not saying it would but can, depending on the box. Efficiency - Simple, the more narrow the frequency range, the better the amp will perform because it puts less stress on the electrical system. But back to the post, If you are not fluent with when to use more or less power, then please use SSF for all types of install. When setting up an amp, it is advised(this is what i do) to not only set the amp up non-clipped, but to all make sure that you never exceed the mechanical limits of the driver(s) by testing the frequencies at which will be sent to the driver(s). I use test tones for this so if they pass, anything will pass since they are recorded at the highest level.

I dont care what company tells you it's ok not to use a SSF, do yourself a favor and disregard that information. Regardless of what size box you use for a sealed box, even if it's 0.00000000000000000001 cu ft, Use a subsonic filter! It will not only prevent this from happening but will also save on your electrical system and keep your amp more efficient during playback.

i dont have anything except the deadening. What i am doing is research, That's why i am on here all the time. What am i waiting on? the weather here should be illegal for real. I am still sound deadening my car. I have\will have 3 layers of it everywhere but the headliner because... well my car is mainly all glass from the windshield to the rear hatch. After all the deadening is installed, i'll use this cardboard piece i have to make a cutout of my rear cargo floor. Then i'll put the information back in AutoCAD. I use AutoCAD to design speaker boxes so i know what will fit in a vehicle. It gives me a better understanding since i can see what i am working with. Then, i will drop the money for all the subs\amps wiring. I will hold up on the alt and all batteries. I install everything, set it up for maximum unclipped output, then comes the fun part. With a factory electrical system, there's no way it can power that. So... when i turn the stereo on, when the lights start to dim, I will attenuate the preout voltage on the stereo until the voltage problem dissipates. Then the alt will be installed. It will be between 200-300A, havnt gotten their yet but will be from Iraggi because i talked to him about it last year. Then i can crank the preout back up until lights start dimming again, then i save up for the batts. Now, i got the money for it easy, but i keep lots of money on reserve for unknown emergencies that may occur. What if i had to buy a car immediately... What if i had to move immediately, buy a home or rent out some place.... I got plenty of money for emergency situations but i do not tap into it because my life is more important than music. Car audio and computers are my hobbies, i'll do what i say i'm gonna do because i got vids of some setups on RoE. I just don't cut corners when it comes to loud. SecondSkin, that's who i contacted about sound deadening. I basically told him i was gonna have 3Kw worth of bass, how many layers do i need? He told me, i'm buying it in 2 sections. 160 sq ft of Damplifier 100 sq ft of Fatmat Extreme (mass loader, lays on top of Damplifier, but only on the floor and hatch floor) I still need to order- About 60 sq ft of Rattlepad About 60 sq ft of Overkill Spectrum maybe possible Sludge.... lots of it, very pricey. I don't want this car to rattle outside. I WILL take it to a shop if it's too bad of a rattle. I will also be side-firing my box to the passenger side so that should help some rattles in the rear. Just gotta double up on the side walls over there. Note - i just wanna say that SSaudio didn't tell me to order Fatmat, i had already ordered it and didn't wanna let it go to waste. Stuff cost over $200.

here's your post Bigjon! Al the replies that followed were - Alt? Haha. Anyways, let me get in here. I have done some research in the past, present, and probably the future so here's some info- Lanzar6000D is like a true 4000w amp. These are approx numbers. Performance mag did the test on this amp- 12.6v - 3,600w @ 1 ohm 14.4v - 4,800w @ 1 ohm I don't know the specs of the Lanzar 4000d but you wouldnt want to know anyway. The cost of the 4 to the 6 is close. The 4000d can be had for around $900 where the 6000d for $1000....wow only $100 difference... The Lanzar 2000D is an interesting one. I have always told people that I believe this amp is the best budget amp out there, or at least that i know in terms of performance to cost. Specs - 180A worth of fusing... gotta be able to do something right? well, it does! Tested by CA&E - 13.8v - 1,600w @ 1ohm 1,940w @ 0.5 ohm(Completely stable and stated by the manufacturer. Rare stable load!) Cost - can be had for $350 Also, strappable - 4,000w @ 1ohm at 13.8v = $700 However, if you could get the Sundown 3000d for what bigjon got his for, you "might" be able to pull more output from that Sundown. That's a guess though. That sundown from some test i've read can output great power at low voltages if your system was lacking in that area. And when you say cost, haha, my setup is expensive that i am planning- Subs may change or may not but here it is for what i know- Sound Deadening - $1,000 3 10" BLs - $900 Sub amp ~ $700-$1000 Factory speaker replacement - $550 Amp to power them - $350 Alt - $550 Batts ~ $600 Wiring\terminals\blocks, etc... ~ $500-700 That should do it.. oh yea one more thing - The stereo - $720 Docking GPS - $550 Why did i get GPS? so i can see where i'm goin, it's too blurry with that bass.... Well, i might have exaggerated a little... ok that was a lie, but Alpine's Blackbird GPS is awesome.

If i calculated right, i'm getting 41.5hz tuning and looks to need the subsonic filter set right above 30hz if giving optimal power. Anything more and the filter needs to be set higher. I got 1.99 cubes per sub, 0.14 displacement for the sub and 0.527 displacement for the port per chamber. That comes out to be 1.8 cubes per chamber exactly. That port seems VERY small for 800wrms. If you were to crank the volume, does it sound like it stops getting louder at a point that you think it should still be getting louder?

well, if ya got a lot of power, i'd hope for a 150. I made vid of SnoopDan in KY breaking 150 with 1 Massive Audio 15 off of a 4000w Visonik amp. He was tuned in the 40s with a 4-6cuft box cant remember. He uploaded the vid to RoE that was taken at the Carl Casper Show.