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shizzzon

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Everything posted by shizzzon

  1. shizzzon

    What is FI's policy on exchanges

    when you go to post them in the For Sale section if you do or havent already, make sure you take pics of the spider and the leads on both sides. This will show people if you have abused them or not. Another little thing that some buyers like is having a live DMM reading on the coils showing that they are operational.
  2. shizzzon

    Your db Numbers

    car--- 1988 Ford Crown Vic electrical --- 200a alt, 50a at idle. Stock Duralast battery amp--- Cadence ZRS 10 subs--- 1 Audiobahn Immortal 15" D2 The Original series box--- 7.9 cu ft 160sq in of port tuned to 29hz mic---Audiocontrol tone--- 31Hz score---144.3 Outlaw @ 2000rpm Metered on the dash
  3. NooB's, DO NOT COMPREHEND THIS POST. Under 1 ohm coverage is void from Z series Sundown amps so no warranty is implied in this post! Ok, my question I understand that the warranty is void by doing this but throwing that out the window, i know it's still possible so what i want to know is, when is the amp not safe? Let's say i got 2 SAZ-1500ds strapped and ran a load at 0.93 ohms. Warranted coverage is no lower than 2 ohms strapped. I've talked to a manufacturer before and he said about all his amp returns are due to people not knowing what they are doing when they run too low of a load. What i want to know is, what makes it "ok" to run below that load? I keep seeing that if you keep the voltage up then the amp(s) are happy with playing tones and music.(according to the 1500d power test thread) Does this also mean if after rise is below 2 ohms strapped that it can still play all day as long as voltage is high? This is what i am trying to figure out. I will have a LOT of run of cable present = to 5 runs of 1/0, batt up front, and up to 5 HC600s within 3ft of the amps. I also use SMART fuse blocks with a threshold of 12v Flat. Meaning if the power flowing through the fuse block ever receives anything lower than 12v, the block will immediately shut down the output of power from itself until the problem is fixed(it will shut off for a split second even on hard bass notes if electrical system was not strong enough, already tested it a long time ago.) And a 200-300A alt. So with that type of electrical system and power security, is this sufficient? For long term life of the amp, does running under it's advertised load even if it never shuts off, stress the components inside too much to cause a failure even if voltage remained above 12v forever? I am suggesting seeing a load after rise with the lowest reading around 0.7-0.8 per amp on some frequencies.
  4. shizzzon

    fi q ohm question

    i'd retest your meter then reconnect the probes. Touch probes together and make sure you are getting 0.0 ohms before applying them to the terminals. IF your meter is properly set right, you may not be getting a good enough connection to the terminal. The tip of the probe reads the best, that or the ring around the tip. You may even wanna try putting the probe in the terminal like it was speaker wire and see if that helps. When you say 1.1 to 1.4 on one coil, it's impossible for the resistance to drop below it's lowest rest state so it's got to be a lot of resistance between the terminal and your probe(s). Make sure both probes have equal connectivity as well. IT sounds like they are D1s for sure though.
  5. yea but you are not stressin your amp. 0.7 ohms is the lowest typical 1ohm nominal load used today. Sundown's owner gave examples of what one person did then i read what the owner, himself, uses which by far is greater than what i can fit. It "might" work but i do not want to take the chance. I am going to be running 3 subs. Three subs is complicated enough just to wire, let alone the possible configurations are somewhat bad... 3 D2s are 0.93 ohms. That's my only configuration possible, heh. If I was running an even number, it'd be totally different. I'd have an HC1400 and 5 HC600s which according to Kinetik should supply 4,400w of power + a HO alt minimal 200A. I know i've already posted that before but again, i'd just rather not risk it.
  6. thanks for info... You run 3000d, i might as well just use that instead of strapping 1500s together and risking it. my vid cam got stolen 2 months ago so after i buy all my gear for the car, gotta go get another vid cam just to have vids of my install.
  7. shizzzon

    What is FI's policy on exchanges

    from Talladega Nights? "I'm on Fire!!"
  8. hey, what VCs do you have on your BLs? D1s or D2s?
  9. oh i know u dont warranty them anymore like that. 0.5 ohm is anywhere between 0.35 - 0.6ohms ... I don't clip amps and would have 100ah in the rear and 80ah in the front... I'm still leary about it cuz i see you and this guy run larger capacity batts for the power draw then what i am wanting to do. I might just skip the idea.
  10. shizzzon

    What do you think?

    daily vs comp - daily, the gap is larger comp - the gap is very small meaning only 1 frequency should be played at a time, no music. It also helps, i think with efficiency, with a tighter gap. I know it helps you out in comps somehow, hehe.
  11. you say a little, what do you got yours wired at 0.7? IF that's true then you have no worries because that's normal for a 1ohm stable amp. 0.7-0.9 is normal for a 1 ohm load. I'm talking about running each 1500d at 0.35ohms DCR resulting in 0.7 ohms strapped. Rise should be a guesstimate at it's lowest around 0.7 per amp. Again, i don't wanna know if it'll work. I know it'll work because Sundown has already proved that. I wanna know is it possible to get it to stay working without damaging the amp? I don't want to stress the amp even if it was fed 13v+ every second. I just wanna know if it will eventually fail from stress because no other amp i have ever played with has stood it's ground for more than 20 minutes below 1 ohm and voltage above 11.5v
  12. shizzzon

    need help with box dimensions

    i dont know if u seen my post on this topic already as ou already started one post about this before. I NEED to know what you want the box tuned too. Without that info, i can't begin.
  13. shizzzon

    2 Smiley's 1 Cup

    For those who know what 2Girls1Cup is, enjoy And now Smiley's turn -
  14. shizzzon

    2 Smiley's 1 Cup

    :lol2: :lol2:
  15. shizzzon

    Alternator

    sounds fine too me. Basically, if you're bumpin with that while driving and your lights are still dimmin bad, then the alt isn't strong enough. More batts may eventually be a bad thing because if there are too many in there,who knows how long it would take the alt to charge em all plus run the stereo. So, if that's the largest, then you should be fine. For your own good, check the voltage on the odysseys every once in a while with vehicle off to make sure they are gettin charged properly.
  16. shizzzon

    Alternator

    this is how i have always done it. When playing music, take the amps rated power and divide by half and that is what you should be focusing on. So, for example, let's say you wired our subs down to 1 ohm. output at 1 ohm is 2500w \ 2 = 1250. Let's say 1500w for efficiency sake. 1500w divided by 13v = 115 A 115A draw off that alt should be fine. You will still have voltage dips due to length of wire, spontaneous power draw from quick bass notes but other than that no other problem. One thing though is if you play constant bass, like test tones and the draw is greater than that, the power will be coming from the batt. If you were to constantly do long drawn out test tones or any other type of playback which would result in constant draw that is greater, the alt will eventually fail. This could take some time though. Somethin that can help is a battery by your amp, maybe more than one.
  17. a box's internal dimensions - 10.5" high 35.5" wide 20" deep If i put a port in it width-wise, slot port along the wall, 10.5" high x 4" wide, and run it across and leave a 4" gap from the wall resulting in port length being 31.5" long + 0.75" for wood thickness exiting box... When i calculate port displacement, do i find the cubic volume of 10.5" x 4.75"(plus thickness of wood) x 31.5" or 10.5" x 4.75" by 35.5" ? Do i take into account the effective area around the port too? because if i do then i would choose the 2nd option above as part of the displacement.
  18. shizzzon

    KnuKonceptz 1/0 or WeldingSupply 1/0

    Well, if that's false, then I'm back to square one on the difference between to 2 because WC is cheaper, thinner with more strands and flexible... So why does car audio cable even exist... Why didn't when Knu open just rebadge welding cable with their name on it? Not picking on them, just using them as example since they're fairly new company. Anybody know a difference?
  19. Well see, I'm trying to figure out how his amps really work. U hear competitors burping down to 0.25 but of course this isn't for music. However, I have used several 1 ohm stable amps before and when I tried to play music uner 1 ohm, like a rise around .8, it would shut off but voltage was still at 11.4?. I talked to a company and they say that these people who run under 1 ohm still are stressing the components inside and wonder when one day the amp has stopped working?? This is what's making me wonder if his SAZ amps are more heavy duty and can take potential abuse for long time to come. I do not know of any other amp out there that can. This is why it puzzles me when Jacob, himself, says that with 2 batts the amp was happy at 0.5 ohms. I've just never heard that before.
  20. shizzzon

    oscilloscope where and how much?

    i remember the clipped graph, haha, o do i remember. When i first got mine, i hooked it up to this 2 channel amp powering my rear speakers. I had already went through 3 pairs of 6x9s in 1 year. I hooked that thing up playing test tones through it and every single frequency except for the lowest ones right around the x-over point was clipping. So i fixed all that, never had a damaged speaker since and it even sounded better... strange?
  21. shizzzon

    From: Sundown Amplifier FAQ

    they should be.i reconed last month and i told scott at fi exactly what i needed. how can i check the coils? Your DMM should be sufficient. Simply read the resistance (impedance). Make sure the woofer is not hooked to the amp and is not moving while measuring. Each coil should read very close to one another. After not thinking about that possibility... i wonder if one sub's recone is D1 and the other D2...
  22. shizzzon

    need help with box dimensions

    your usable space you have, i will design a box for the entire volume you listed. I NEED to know what frequency you would like this box tuned to. Without that, i cannot help you and i cannot suggest a frequency either. And another note - the usable space you have to work with, again i will use this entire space so make sure you have room for all those batts and amps. Also, how many baffles you want? using 0.75 thick wood, do you want me to design it with 2,3,4,5 or even 6 baffles? If it were me, i'd probably do 4 baffles with allthread everywhere. I'm not going to calculate allthread displacement if that's ok. It shouldnt be THAT much. If you want me to calculate thread displacement for the utmost accuracy possible just let me know.
  23. shizzzon

    KnuKonceptz 1/0 or WeldingSupply 1/0

    make sure that when you get it, get a DMM and put the probes at each end of the wire and see if it still reads 0.0 ohms. If it does, then that's great. I had done some research on welding vs car audio wire a while back and on some distributors website it states that almost all welding cable is not oxygen free. What "can" happen if it is introduced to really cold temperatures is that welding cable can ... i don't know the term but it can potentially condensate inside the wire forming water. You definitely don't want water in there. Now, i do not remember what the temp was, i know it was well under 32F, so i decided to pay out the Wazoo for 3/0 car audio cable. I was going to go with the 1/0 orange flex if i didnt. If you get it and like it later on down the road, i'll definitely purchase some! I got 1 3/0 run now, i need about 3 more 1/0 runs under the car to have a high voltage reading in the back. That'll be just over 21,000 strands of wire!
  24. shizzzon

    dust cover is warm... how hot is too hot?

    i like that statement, hehe. I can't decide on which amp is dumber though for my setup. I hope i find the dumbest amp out there. I'm sure the cost is gonna be completely retarded. Big Jon - From past experiences, your dust cap can get warm with no worries. If it started to feel like it was about ready to start cooking for you, then let it cool down immediately. Now, i'm not saying burning type of hot, but i'm saying you wouldnt want to keep your hand there for a prolonged period of time. If it's not that hot then no immediate worries. You will know if there is too much excessive heat buildup back there. I used to own a crown vic and i could smell the glue gettin hot with this one setup i had long time ago so i know u'd be able to smell it too. You will get more peace of mind knowing your amp is setup correct though.
  25. shizzzon

    4vs.1 or less

    haha just playin
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