shizzzon

sounds like you dont have enough power to get one. And thats not covered under warranty!

well, i'm tryin to run a box with 3 subs in 2.7-3.2 net with .91 port displacement. I just divided it by 3 and gave the number to ya.

at least you got one... Last place i worked at, all the girls were either married or gay... I was the ONLY male guy that worked that shift unless the supervisor was there but we were buds so we just played around with everybody. ///M5 - I'm surprised your not hovering over the toilet just wasting it all back out.. Man, that's a helluva lot of liquids! But i know what u mean about feelin like that. When i get hungry, i usually eat 3 cans of chicken noodle at a time. Gatorade, Hi-C's Fruit punch, Orange juice with food and of course just any non carbonated 12oz canned drink. OH, i remember buying a pack of minute maid lemonade one time when i was sick... haha, i drank those things in 2-3 gulps a can.

did you read that somewhere on this site at sometime? I don't know.... is it time to joke yet? If BP were to stand for Big Power... then BR stands for Big Resistance because i don't see it being better. But seriously, how long ago did he mention this option?

ok now come on... Yes, i gave the guy 1cuft NET to go off of because i already knew that the port displacement per sub would be .2 - .35 cuft at 32-33hz If you go tuning at 12hz in 1 cuft.... i don't even feel like seein how long the vent would need to be and be able to fit that in the car. It look like a snake wrapped around the car.

when i need to backup information that can be stored until i die, Verbatim's Gold Archival grade is considered the best. The best is used in terms of gold archival, not just Verbatim. There was a government document i read a while back when researching storage backup choices and when i was reading about this technology, it states that gold archival discs minimum life is 75yrs and can go up to 250yrs depending on how they are stored. They are only sold in 50 packs and can be had for under $80 a pack. These are single layer DVD discs. As for external drives, it depends on how much data you backup at a given time and how long is it stored on there before removal? If it's less than 16gb, get a flash drive, lot more convenient. There is now a 32gb MC card out now so maybe that will come to flash soon. For convenience, 2.5" externals are the fastest ways of plugging them up, however they are a little slow and a lot more expensive but are more durable as well. 3.5" externals must be plugged into surge bar every time it needs to be used. It cannot take lots of abuse because these drives were meant to be stored in a desktop only. So lots of vibrations can kill it. These drives are a lot cheaper by the GB and can be serviced by yourself easily as well. IF it were me, i'd go with 3.5". It's the same drive as probably whats in your pcs now, just dont throw it around or drop it and it should last a long time.

yes, loud street beater. I've never ran Sq subs, i've heard them but particularly like loud better, but loud also involves being in the right enclosure as well. I went back over by drawings and came up with these 2 volume choices - 3 10" Icons in a 3.2 cu ft box ported at 32hz 2kw of power, HO alt, 1 HC1800 as starting battery or 3 10" Fi BLs in a 2.6 cu ft box ported at 33hz 3-4kw of power, HO alt, HC1800 + up to 5 HC600s This is also a money thing too. Play smart, not stupid. The 2nd choice would run an extra $1,500. I just don't know if it would be that much potentially noticeable to the ear. I don't know how well the BLs can perform in 0.86 cubes per driver. As you can see, i want it to drop low so it would still have to be able to drop in that small of a box. In past experiences, i've been happy with metered power between 25-31hz as low as 129db in cabin reading. Although my last car i had, i did 144.3 at 31hz, outlaw on the dash. That was wicked bass. The difference in setup- 1 15, same 15 just different box 131.2 db recorded at 31 hz in a sealed box 144.3 db recorded at 31 hz in an 8cuft box ported both off same amp. BIG difference. I will always stay ported, i like it loud at the low end. I know the Icons can get deep in that design i laid out, just don't know if the BLs can in that box

you gotta remember that the guy said it was impossible to do it with a 10 in 1cubic foot or less. Also, not every sub can reproduce the low end range as well as others. Take into account drivers who are more geared toward the upper midbass range, whether it be comp only subs or some midbass drivers, they will not be able to produce the low end properly.

yea, this is a tough one for me. The icons will have more volume, = more efficient. The BLs will be right in the middle of their recommended enclosure but are given more power. The icons will actually be in about 3.3 cubes, not 3. Because the power given to the icons would be far less than for the BL choice, there would be less turbulence, meaning smaller port area, smaller displacement.

ok, if i went with the more efficient choice off of 2kw, then Icons. If i went with more aggressive power, Fi BLs

i throw the sundown as an option. According to Kinetik, with that amount of batt plus whats up front, i could run 5,000w of power under their recommendation. I say 5 hc600s because ae small enough to fit the width of my car. I really am somewhat lost on which design to go with here. It's for a scion tc so it'll be ridiculously loud. I did have 1 AQ 15 sealed(even though i wasnt suppose to) off of 600w actual power and that thing was loud but i know i can do better, i just dont wanna make the wrong choice.

reason i post is because i have a choice - I have a small space to do my box in - 12" high x 21.25" deep x 36" wide (42" wide if i went sealed but ported is more efficient) I have 1 of 2 choices- be more efficient and run 3-4 10" Icons or Fi's ported in a 3 cuft box off of 2kw, 1 battery up front. or... be more power hungry and run 2-3 10" subs ported in 2.7 cuft box off of 3-3.5kw with 5 HC600s (gotta go with small batts due to space) See the dilemma. The first choice is a LOT more efficient, less cost. 2nd choice is louder and about $765 extra

he could have meant there is no 10 that "they carry." But he never said that so... you know. Oh, i never told you guys what he suggested. He told me the only thing that would work for me is Alpine Type Rs. ...i've never ran anything that is "oh so popular". I hate that.

dont use EQs anymore? Wow, i guess amps just come out of the box winning already.

i'm installing 170 sq ft of sound deadening in my car already. 3 layers everywhere. Anything else left over, multiple layers in the back.

i'm lookin into it

ok, well thanks man. Just gettin a heads up on that little bit. Now, gotta go reply to my other thread u replied on, lol

was that ported? what sub was that? And again, see, i knew he was retarded.

ok i'll go ahead and post the story about the eternals. This is one of 2 reasons why i will never own Audiobahn again. These 2 subs were wired down to 0.9 DCR on a Cadence ZRS10. I wanted to do a field test and see if Audiobahn rates the thermal power handling properly or not because i hate lies. You get a BAD rep if you overrate your equipment. Eternals are rated at 900wrms. I threw on a 35hz test tone and let it burp. These test tones are created by me at 0db amplitude. Amp is guaranteed not to clip. Metered distributed power to each sub is 334w of power. These test tones were generated to play 60 full seconds. So i started- At 47 seconds, sub number 2 started to severely smell so i attenuated the sound then paused. Sub number one did not have a problem. It got a little smelly but that's it. Sub number 2 got extremely smelly, cannot handle as much output power now because if it moves too much, it starts to pop or move erratically in a weird manner. Only receiving just over 33% of their rated power non clipped... The old immortals, same way. Rated for 2000wrms, haha yea right. Now, i give it that it could take 1000wrms all day but not 2000wrms. Slight clipped signal at approx metered power of 1150w at 50hz for 3 minutes, fried both tinsel leads. Other reason about AB is the last sub i ever bought from them, i was jammin on a 1000wrms rated 10, giving it about 400-600w actual power on a song. All of a sudden, the glue around the spider came unglued and the sub jumped out of the gap and slammed back down... it got messed up obviously. Overrate their subs and don't use enough glue. I'm done.

OMG! i cant do it then, i quit! Ok, maybe i'll give a timeline here. I've never owned a hatchback before so i dont know what to look or hear for generally over time. Is it possible that the rear window may need to be replaced once a year? Now, i know that there isn't a yes or no to that but what i mean is like, i know the window wont crack or shatter but the adhesive holding the glass may start to give away over time. this is an 07 so it's pretty strong on there right now. I just really want to check and see if i should lower the height of the box or not. I raised the height to get my desired volume. If i lower it, it will be 8 inches from the glass and i will change from 2 12s to 2 10s. I don't have anything yet, i'm still graphing in AutoCAD. Well there ya have it, whatcha think

Before i start, go ahead and go to youtube and search for HDC3, there are already some videos of them in action. I thought since nobody had any info on them that i would share what i have been told from the guy himself. If you thought the old HD3s were loud, ...haha get ready. There has been reviews about people doing direct swaps from HD3s to HDC3s and gaining, not loosing, gaining Dbs (not noticeable by ear, but by meter). So, what to expect out of these? The Fs rating on these subs are high, why? The Parameters for these subs were taken fresh. Have not been "broken in" yet. The suspension is still stiff as hell. When an HDC3 is broken in, the Fs drops approximately 8-10 hz, which can be lower than the original HD3s! Can they handle the lows? After they are broken in, they can handle the lows just fine, If you have experience with the original HD3s then you know how low they can go and still be crazy loud. Just remember, they WILL get louder the longer you play them and get that suspension loosened up. What size box? Ported only, EBP is off the chart The HDC3s can be ran as follows- 10" - 0.7 - 1.5. 1.0 is preferred to be the smallest recommended. 12" - 1.8 - 2.5. 2.0 is preferred to be the smallest recommended. 15" - 2.8 - 4.0. 3.0 is preferred to be the smallest recommended. 16sq in of port per 1 cubic foot recommended. 14sq in of port is the SMALLEST recommended per cubic foot. Power handling - Rated at 1000wrms I was informed that this rating should be Strictly followed if you do not have the proper tools to setup your amplifier(s) properly. If you do not know if this is you, you must have or know all of the following knowledge. If you do not know or have everything below, STICK with the rating of these subs. Oscilloscope Ammeter Digital Multimeter You must know how to use the tools above in the following manner- Must be able to use oscilloscope to fine tune your entire frequency range without clipping. Must be able to measure amperage and voltage output from amplifier to determine correct wattage output at any given frequency. (this is to properly setup it's thermal limits) Must have your subwoofer configuration wired to your amp properly without going below the amps lowest rated ohm load. Must be able to RETUNE your setup after using an oscilloscope to test mechanical limits and lower your output power if necessary to prevent damage. Must know when to use small vs large enclosures with the amount of power you plan to use. This list may sound ridiculous but for your own good, this list of information is what i gathered as just a summary of things you need to have\know so the NooBs vs the Experienced can be deciphered to give the proper information. If you know or have all of the following above, PM me for the actual power handling specs of these subs. It is not recommended that it be posted publicly because the manufacturer did not want to have lot's of returns due to improper installation. If you are wondering what these subs compare to, here is my opinion- Fi - greater than BLs, subpar with the BTLs DD - 9500s is probable.

I have a lot better success in making 1 single run with the port if i side fire rather then fire back. I prefer not to have to bend the port(s) is why i am asking if there is anything "off" sounding to this. My max square dimensions in cargo area is - (for this height) 42" wide x 12" high x 24.25" deep. If i were leave a 7" gap in the width to allow air to escape out of the box and shoot up towards the car, i would then have- 35" wide x 12" high x 24.25" deep. At the very back of the box on the side, i would, for example, have a 10.5" high x 4" wide port. I'm assuming i should have it as far back in the car as possible when side firing. If i choose to side fire, should i make the box as far deep as possible? Meaning make it the whole 24.25" deep so i can fill in the remaining cargo volume as best as possible? subs are facing up by the way.

I've thought about doing this and recently seen someone actually use this method but never commented on how good it was. In instances where all-thread cannot be used.. how about running those flat steel bars that Lowes sells on the inside of the box? Those are humanly unbendable.... it's steel. I was thinking about running those, gluing them to the box, drill out contact points, maybe 1 every 12", run bolt through to the outside, threadlock it and use a large washer on the outside of the box with a nut of course. Seal around the steel bar. These bars, if i am not mistaken, are only like 1\8th" thick. Shouldnt' that make the wall it is attached to hella strong? I see no need in running steel bars on the outside... Just make sure that the steel bar run is glued, bolted and sealed around so no air can seep underneath it.

hehe, Iraggi told me over the phone he makes a 300A for my car. I know what the price is and everything. He also stated that he(well... at the time anyways) also had the only alt for the scion tc that would not throw codes due to the ECU controlling the voltage itself. I know i can get it, but i gotta get in depth specs on it and how safe is my car with it?

OK, i've been doin research on this and i can't get a hold of excessive amperage or Iraggi so maybe someone on here may know. I had planned on running a Lanzar 6000D with an Alpine PDX 4.150 300A iraggi alt with HC1800 and HC2400. Well, i've been doin some research on alts and it said once you reach 300A alt case size, it is extremely large. In order to have adequate cooling, they are normalls about 12" wide by 18" long! There is no way that could fit in there without doin some extensive re-running of the AC lines, but Iraggi makes alts this high which is odd. I drive a 2007 Scion tC by the way, 141hp dyno-ed stock auto, 161hp at the crank. Ok, it is also true that for every 150A of output, the engine loses 11-14HP. That's a lot for a 300A alt AND for a 4 cylinder at that. I talked to my alt install guy about it and he said that the engine should not stall even at idle but does not believe a 300A alt can fit and neither do i. I continued researching and found out that that kind of loss of HP severely puts excessive wear on the engine. I do not know if it does this while on idle or just at any time. Can someone elaborate on all of this? It's makin me wanna downgrade to a 200-220 at the max and just run a 3K amp instead. But while i'm thinkin about it, i may not even be able to do that due to the amount of current one can pull.