shizzzon

sweet! thanks.

well, if i can find an amp small enough to fit, i like to power the jbl C608GTI MKII up front with just a couple midbass drivers in the back. Been lookin at Digital Designs driver for that. As a fallback option, i could just go with Alpine's PDX amp and their type X components up front and DD's midbass in rear.

you are gonna need to make a choice as well. 2 12s or 1 15, that's 2 different amp setups as well. Another thing is, where are you buying these subs? Online, private seller, audio shop? you say you have a budget of a few hundred. what all does this budget cover? hopefully it doesn't include the subs if buying new. No disrespect but i hate to try and help people point them in the direction just to fit the bill rather than fit the proper setup. I've had too many personal experiences of people saying $2K for that? i can do lot better with different equipment... sadly, nobody i know personally in educated in car audio at all and all come back to me for help. So, if you are just a basshead and are envying bass, make sure that you got the money before buying a setup that just comes on and makes sound. Having been through so much crap that isn't my fault such as theft and learning a LOT by researching online, i can tell you this- Your budget won't cover sound deadening. If your equipment is ever stolen, you better talk with your insurance company beforehand to see what you must do to make sure your aftermarket equipment is covered. Do your research before taking our advice and run.

i know it really isn't, that's why i said main issue with that amp is size. though, it is smaller than PG's older amps, it's still too long. It's not my fault i'm being picky, , i'm just seeing if my application is possible.

check this out... if this theory works. According to box graphing- Take 1 sub in a 1.0 cu ft enclosure after all displacements. give it 1,500w of power tuned to 32hz. Recommended port area for flanged port is 12sq in. non bended port and port displacement - 4" port (12.57sqin) 29.5" long displacement - 0.209 cu ft Same tuning with this wack theory, hehe - 26hz tune for 2" port - 2" port (3.16sqin) 10.75" long 38hz tune for 4" port - 4" port (12.57sqin) 20.0" long Port displacement for both ports combined - 0.158 cu ft! Total port area - 15.73 sq in! Result- If this theory works, you gain more port area AND lower port displacement. Pretty interesting if it's true... and audibly satisfying. Old school port, slot port - (just for reference) slot required 16sqin per cube vs aero recommendation at 12sqin per cube. 4x4 port sharing 2 of 4 walls using 0.75" mdf with length 39" long subtracting 2" for active length running along wall. Port displacement of slot - 0.473 cu ft! Now tell me if that isn't a major difference!

The Rockford references including the T15004, RF no longer offers that on their website. The Memphis 5004 is not powerful enough. The Kicker SX is no longer offered, the ZX is 175x4 as stated before, just shy of the rating. The main problem with this amp though is it's still to long. I'm tryin to find one that can do this 19" long or shorter.

it's funny that PG seemed to have satisfied my needs in the past... Nope, everyone i checked out its out of stock.. PG's site is owned by someone else now? rodinaudio.com? Therefore anything in the past they had is long gone.

Holy God, JimJ, hehe, that ms1000 is a beast! However, even if i could get one new(used one goin for over $1K), the amp is extremely too long for my application, 1 inch shy of 3ft! Those ZX amps... they don't. Their largest one the 850.4, i don't know the 4ohm rating but 2ohm is 215x4 so i know the 4ohm is lower, it may be close but no cigar, hehe. I may be forced to just use 150x4s. I really like the new JLaudio HD600/4 if i can get it for a decent price when they come out. It retails for $799 when they come out. I also have the choice of goin with Alpine's PDX. These are my fallback options.

This is for daily driver. About the vibration, that's why i mentioned gluing and bolting it to a wall. I seriously do not see vibrations possible occurring with glue and bolts. I was thinking about this because it virtually takes up no volume inside of the enclosure. So, since you guys think it's a bad idea, can you please elaborate as to why and maybe some other methods besides all-thread(i already know about this) that i can use that takes up virtually no volume either. This is for a ported box looking for an expected 148-150db worth of pressure. Also, if i choose to use all-thread, how would i brace the baffle(the top of the box) and the bottom of the box? I do not know anything else to say, hehe.

If I were to use the Flanged ports that PartsExpress sells, since i have never used these type of ports before, is it necessary to brace the port inside the box to prevent vibration of the port? IF it is required(4KW+) what you guys recommend me do using 4" aero ports(ports be 4" from the floor). Subwoofer mounting - What do you think is the most secure method of holding down subs. I was thinking about purchasing this foam tape that partsexpress has to prevent air leakage around subs but wanted to do something different rather than just use drywall screws for a high wattage install. I have been looking into t-nuts and hurricane nuts and from reviews i've been reading, hurricane nuts tend to be a lot better than t-nuts for MDF. Just put a dab of glue on the nut, hammer it in, then drive a bolt through. As simple as it seems, since i have never used hurricane nuts, for 3\4" wood, how long of a bolt do i use with nuts like these? Is there any other method for high strength securing or is this method pretty damn good?

you are right. I was gonna post an example frequency but decided not too because of that dilemma, lol. Got an idea off top of my head, use a very small port opening for the longer port, let's say 2" diameter. The rest can be 4" or more.

Well... since you are typing in specifics all the way down to a 1\1000th of an inch, to reach 37hz tuning, the length should be 15.460", not 15.920". So, to retain that port area and tune down to 35hz, the length(including the width of the baffle it exits out of) needs to be - 17.990", or just make it 18" long. Subtract the thickness of the baffle from 18" to find the length of the port itself. However.... in slotted ports, the entrance of the port is NOT where the active length starts at. Usually, you would take the internal width of the slot, divide in half then add that to the length of the port to determine it's beginning active length. So.... if your slot port is 5" wide, then 2.5" before the entrance actually acts as part of the port IF AND ONLY IF one of the walls of the slot port is the wall to the box itself.

i would do 60sqin slotted, or 3 4" flanged

well just to keep curiosity goin, let's say that you need a port longer than what will fit without bending. So, you instead fabricate the remaining required length for a 2nd port which makes the medium of both ports equal your desired tuning. Now, i'm sure there has to be something bad about this compared to just making the port correct the way you are suppose to but still interesting.

I own a scion tc and specs are- fronts are 6.5" 2way components rears are 5.25" co-axials. Since i am adding 3Kw worth of bass, i need high powered speaker replacements. I'm not a total audiophile, I just like it loud and clear. Anyways, i have been looking at these - JBL C608Gti MK II Why? because they are the loudest 6.5" 2way i can find without retailing over $1,000. Now, here is the question - if i power these with about 200w per side, for me sitting up front, would i not hear the rear speakers higher frequency range giving them 100w per speaker? I'm wondering if i am just suppose to replace the rear speakers with just 5.25" woofers only, no co-axial.

Make sure that you get the HOT amps at idle output for that alt. That's just as important as the max output.

Kicker's manual states if you are looking for low bass, you need 3.25 cu ft PER sub. That's 6.5 for your pair plus sub displacement, port displacement and wood thickness. Do you have about 8-9 cubes of space available? If so, you gonna need more than 1 sheet.

Do or Do Not, There is No Try.

20ft run cost about $165. Yes, you read that right. Reason - 1/0 wire has 4,xxx strands; 3/0 wire has 6,xxx strands. 2 1/0 wires has 8,xxx strands. So why buy 3/0? it's smaller therefore can fit in tighter places. Oops, forgot to tell ya where i got it at, got it at darvex.com

there is no gradual rise in power. You shouldnt be worried. I had it cut off only one time and that is because i was runnin about 1500w off of stock battery with the car off. Now, if you were driving (car on), again, a quick, rare instance that the voltage may dip too low would be just like a cd reading over a scratch. It would pause for a quick instance then start playing again. I use mine for safety of the class d amps. Even if they "claim" there is low voltage protection on the amp, it's like having an extra fuse there just in case.

Well, here's some basic info that the good ol' Calculator says - The following is based upon 300A worth of current. 18ft run using 1 1/0 wire - 1.09 voltage drop 18ft run using 1 3/0 wire - 0.686 voltage drop 18ft run using 2 1/0 wires - 0.545 voltage drop I didn't wanna run more than 1 1/0 wire in my new car from front batt to rear so i went ahead and bought Stinger's new 3/0 wire. I got it ran but havent got the batts yet so i dont know how many ft i'm actually gonna be using. the way i got it hidden probably gonna need the whole 20ft in my car. 3ft runs with 300A current draw - 1/0 wire - 0.182 voltage drop 3/0 wire - 0.114 voltage drop 2 1/0 wires - 0.091 voltage drop

you don't need to keep an eye on it like that all the time. That'd be like having a voltmeter for your regulator on the dash all the time just in that rare instance it went out... See if you can find a Cadence FH-8, or i also know Rockford made or still makes one but anyways, try and find you a SMART fuse block. What they do is they have a voltage selector on the block itself. I own 2 Cadence FH-8s. You can set it for 12.5, 12.0, 11.5v. IF the voltage running through this block drops below it's setting, the block will immediately prohibit power from flowing through itself until voltage raises above threshold. If it dips for split seconds, then the block will shut off for split seconds. The Cadence i know is very fast and responsive.

i'm assuming your batts are within a few ft of that amp? If it is close, for every extra run that close, you're probably only gonna see 0.1 -0.2 volt increase per pair. So, if you got 1, add one more to half voltage drop, to half again, you need 2 more runs, that's gettin pretty thick.

ebay

Well, i'm gonna assume he'll buy it new rather than used because i don't know what used subs go for so here we go - Fi SSD ($209) u better tell him to pick up the change on the ground for this one, hehe Alpine Type R MB Quart Premium Series Kicker Solobaric L7 Power Acoustik MOFO (i've never heard in person but have heard that these subs are geared more toward the 40-50hz range then the ultra lowend) Soundstream Tarantula T4 Lanzar Optidrive