shizzzon

you know, i always tend to look past the basics first, hehe

turn the gain down on the line driver just a little bit and try again. You may be outputting too much voltage to your amp. If the LD's gain is set exactly correct, then turn amp's gain down a little, but, i would turn the LDs gain down first.

if you are blowing fuses on your power line and not your amp.... then the fuse on your power line is not large enough. Also, playing right around your tuning frequency exhibits high impedance rise so playing 30hz would be a lot less stressful than 25hz. Playing anything below your tuning frequency usually causes lots of cone movement and playing notes approx 12-15hz above tuning as well. IF all those vids u made were playing right around tuning, then nothing to worry. See, think of it this way, how do competitors get over 20KW of power to each sub? There are lots of ways and tips such as- burping at tuning frequency causes the least cone movement, meaning you can push more power at that note as long as you know how to control the sub from overheating. Using an amp such as a JBL with crown technology will have the least potential of the speaker leads from catching on fire due to too much amperage... why? Because these amps, with the help of crown's tech, can output consistent power between 3-8 ohms, i believe is the range and if you hookup an ammeter and DMM to the amp, it shows a constant 8 ohm output regardless of real resistance. Short burps also have less potential of causing damage than longer burps. Trust me, it's normal if it doesn't move a lot around tuning. Your movement becomes greater below tuning and about 12-15 hz above it. Above tuning may differ from how the box is tuned but i usually tune ported boxes where u got yours tuned at and that's what i notice.

6-10 hz? I have never heard of any song going that low, that's purely inaudible as well. The lowest bass track i have goes down to 10hz and WAY before it even get's to that point, all you can do is feel the bass, not hear it. Anything below 26hz, in my opinion, is a waste of energy, hehe. In other words, i never let the SSF start below 26hz. regardless of how low tuning is. IT just doesn't sound decent... because there is hardly any sound, lol

you have impedance rise regardless of box design. I'll probably do what someone above said, get 3 dual 2s all in series, then parallel remaining connections. Only debate left is - final load is 0.98 ohms at rest, wondering what is going to make more power, a Lanzar 4000d or a sundown 3000D after rise...

I am not trying to make this complicated but from what i've been told in the past, you never want to wire 2 different speakers together of different resistance. Conclusion would be one sub would get more power than the other. "If" that's true, then doesn't that mean- For 3 Dual 2 ohm subs, if they were all wired in parallel, wouldnt one of the 3 subs receive less power than the other 2? My thinking - take all 3 subs, wired in parallel - 3 1 ohm coils left. parallel those, 1 0.5 ohm coil and 1 1 ohm coil, 1 ohm coil receive less power, correct? If this is true, if i want a 3 sub combination off of 1 amp at a 1ohm load, would i need 2 dual 2s and 1 dual 1 version? Wiring - wire both dual 2ohms in parallel-series resulting in a final 2 ohm load. wire the dual 1 ohm in series to also receive a 2 ohm load. Parallel these two connections to achieve 1 ohm. Is this necessary? I know that different voice coil configs have different properties but if they were all in a common chamber, i still shouldnt hear a difference if that's what i have to do, correct?

i dont understand what u mean by clip out at medium power? Nothing should "clip" until you reach a power level higher than what you set it up for. IF you use an o-scope and setup your amp and it's set at let's say vol. 26. Once all tested frequencies are setup and do not clip... then as long as you do not change any settings and do not exceed vol 26 in this example, nothing will\should clip.

when you have 3 1 ohm coils left, when you start wiring all of them in parallel, the first two that are wired in parallel = 0.5 ohms leaving the last coil still at 1 ohm before it joins with the 0.5 load. so, ok, i was wrong... Well... thanks for the not-so-complicated explanation, hehe. I am looking at the Fi Qs, DCR is exactly 1.5. per sub. All 3 subs in series is 3 ohms each, 3 3ohm loads all wired in parallel results in an exact 1 ohm load. That's nifty. Now i gotta decide whether i wanna run 3 of them or 4...

you shouldnt set an amp's gain via voltage only because you do not know what resistance it is currently at. Yea sure it might be 0.7 at rest, but what if you measured the amps at being 15a?, that's a 2ohm resistance. Properly set an amp up via oscilloscope. You can buy em at www.partsexpress.com I watched your vids, i do not recognize any of those songs but i would play some lower frequency test tones and see if it moves more. Also, what is your subsonic filter and LPF set at?

ok, from the last time i posted, i had been doin research and nothing came back telling me anything bad about grounding directly to battery. So... if there really is anything bad about it, maybe it's safety assurance knowing if the terminal were to come loose... bad things might happen. An assumption but only thing i can come up with. Oh and johnecon2001, you forgot to say after running amp(s) to unfused distro block, that the battery itself still needs to be grounded to chassis.

you can run power to the battery but do NOT ground to the battery. I had actually called 2 different car audio manufacturers about 3 weeks ago about this to confirm the right way of doing this. They both said- Run your power to your battery. You can use distro's as long as you use larger gauge wire when necessary to prevent a fire or lowest voltage loss. When grounding amps, never ground to the battery. Ground each amp SEPARATELY. Grounding more than 1 amp to the same contact point can cause undesirable results. They never told me what exactly nor did i really go into detail about that either. They did tell me though that you can ground multiple amps to a bar attached to your chassis as long as the bar makes contact to the car in multiple places. IT is also recommended to fuse in the following locations and not the following locations- Alt to starter battery - no fuse Starter battery to Aux battery - fuse within 18in of starter AND within 18in of Aux battery. Aux battery to amp(s) - fuse within 18in of battery(again). Note - even if your amps are fused on-board, it it still recommended to fuse in front of the amp. However, if your power wire is short, 3-4ft, i believe only 1 fuse between the amp and the Aux battery is required. Purpose for all fuses- amp to aux battery - to prevent extensive damage to amp if it were to start to smoke, fire hazard prevention. Aux to starter battery - 2 fuses there, help to prevent a fire possibly from happening that starts either at the aux or starter battery. Commonly caused by grounding the power terminal. Whereas it is true that fuses tend to slightly lower voltage throughput, i do not think it's that much of a problem for daily driver. Safety first.

I do have a major question? I seen that someone made reference to PSP, i have read on their site, klausaudio's site and subwoofer-builder.com(think that's the name) and none of these sites allow calculations for the amount of power going to be used!?!? These calculators help determine length but you must give the port area to do it. The problem i'm seeing is when I build an enclosure, I may only have just enough space for an optimal install. To gain NET volume, I have the option of going with flared port(s). Using box modeling software, i am able to see calculated port velocity and calculated port length by giving the software a port area just like with these other calculators.....but there is a difference. Air speed in the port does not flow slower just by increasing port area, or not just by using flared port(s), but also by decreasing output power from subwoofer(s). So... how can these calculators properly give me an appropriate port if i have to guess on the port area without seeing a port velocity graph? I am trying to do some research on if and how much a flared port can reduce port area requirement before you fall below a specified speed of air at a given frequency. For instance, one source says not to exceed 145ft\sec for daily driver or not to exceed 37ft/sec for SPL applications. So, let's say i don't wanna exceed 130ft/sec or i will have audible turbulence(theoretically). This software does NOT take into consideration that flared ports may be able to decrease the required port area based on the outer size of the flange(i guess because it would be too complicated due to angles and such). So, this software tells me for a 2.7 cu ft box NET at 35hz with 3,000w of power before resistance rise, I would need a port area of 41.25sqin but with 4,000w i would need 47.25sqin, 1,000w is 23.75sqin. You see how power is very relevant in these calculations for designs that need as much space in small spaces as possible. So... In this design i am doing, i need 41.25sqin of port area for this box. If flared ports decrease the required port area required,(meaning i can make a flared port that takes up less space in the box and still get the same results as a slotted port) how much do they decrease this requirement? Complicated question? I am very curious to know how small can the diameter of a flared port can be made to keep your DIY applications to fall within your personal limits of port velocity to retain as much NET volume as possible. I am also curious to know how I go about calculating the volume a flared port takes up? And no i do not have any measuring device methods such as filling box with water.

the port length shown for more than 1 port is the length requirement for EACH port, not combined length! Did you freak out, hehe? It does appear pretty long but that is what happens when using multi ports

I have to ask this... BKOLF04, what is the maximum port velocity before audible distortion is heard? I do not know this answer but I have been told not to exceed 145 ft\sec, although i tend not to go past 130 ft\sec. The 1.9 cuft design for 33 hz would need a port area of 26 sqin. The calculator i am using, however, shows no change in port velocity when changing from flared to flat ends, the only thing that changes is the length of the port. According to this calculator, a 4" flared port would yield a max port velocity of 276 ft\sec flared or flat using 1,500w of power. Is this calculator not calculating something or is this port velocity acceptable?

Well, looks decent. For your safety and to attempt to prevent theft and to satisfy an insurance claim if your equipment is covered- You are going to need to secure your box better than that for your safety. Also considering securing the box from the inside so no one can steal the box without time and effort. You need some sort of way to secure your battery down to your truck. I hope all those amps on that sub box are braced from inside the box AND have some sort of absorption base that the amps are mounted to so you don't end up damaging the amps due to excessive vibrations. You also be a lot better off securing your amps to the floor. I look at that install and know how thieves are. IF they broke in your truck, that can have all those amps in no time. Find a way and secure all of this so you are not a victim.

ok, i dont have it on any of these 6 hard drives, i have some more unplugged that i can check but i wont do it right now. If you wanna see the short clip ROE made, go to RealmofExcursions site and go to videos, then Audioque, and look for ShiZZZoN's video.

well, i did upload it to ROE when i first made it but they said it was so long that they had to cut it down big time. I do not know if i still have the original video saved anywhere or not. Let me check all my drives and pcs, i'll repost in several minutes and let u know.

wiggle the cables back there, any and all of them and try to replicate the scenario. If that doesn't do it, low voltage maybe?

they can do very little custom work like aluminum to copper wire and different voice coil configs but thats it. I can't comment on the new subs because they are using out of country parts now to cut cost down. However, the original series, the ones that cost close to $400, the ones i'm trying to sell here, lol, they can take some beating! They should be compared to the BTLs but not 100% though. A LOT of people compared the original HD3s to DD9500s. A competitor on Termpro was the one who got me to buy 2 of em at the time. He was running 1 Hifonic Colossus per sub! Metered at just over 2,200 watts per sub actual output for 3 straight burps and never even got luke warm. I got it, wired 1 15 up to an amp outputting metered power of - 600-1300w for daily drivin tuned to 29hz for about 18 months, never ever ever got warm, ever. I made a video of just over 15 minutes of straight bass, recorded at 0 db amplitude of, again, constant bass and the sub still never got luke warm. The originals are a beast.

i've never done an SPL only setup but i do know that higher Fs subs usually tend to be better for SPL. For someone that knows why would be great to post here so i know too but that's what i've noticed.

try some AQ HDC3s, Fi BLs, or.... almost forgot, Audiobahn Immortals. All of those subs have Fs's around or over 40hz so should work perfect for your attempted setup. Oh, also Hifonics higher end subs as well, i think their Fs is high up their too.

gotcha, but doesn't exist on sundown, not their fault personally, most to all class d amps are like this. i am still lost on phase response... I thought you meant phase issues. As you can tell i am not fond of this area. Or i might know what you are referring to and just not realizing it....

When an active x-over is set, amps that power mids and highs, do the x-overs on these amps need to be set to Full Pass? Also, amps that power subwoofers, do these amps' LPF need to be set as high as possible? and if their is a subsonic filter on the active x-over, does the subsonic filter on the amp need to be set as low as possible?

If i knew how to get ahold of one of my friends, he works for Geek Squad's Main HQ's and is a manager there. He got the job for how smart he is basically. He has told me some hacking stories he has done to people who have "attempted" to mess with him in the past. He's good company, just someone i know who keeps up with today's technology. I wish i had studied hacking in the past so i knew more about security before starting my own network. If you need to check who is connected or who you are connected to- go to command prompt, type - netstat press enter. If you need to see who a certain ip address is, go here - www.whois.sc if you need to see how to get to a certain ip address, like from router to router, go to command prompt, type in - tracert(press space bar)then enter their ip address and press enter. IF you need to hack someone, don't ask IF you run a wireless network and people who live around you are very tech savvy and you could be suspicious of their intelligence, do not share files\folders on any pc if you feel they are smart enough to get through your router. Get a program that can not only monitor(such as a firewall) but log all inbound and outbound ip addresses that come in contact with the router. PeerGuardian is one of these programs that keeps track of what is pinging you and who you are pinging. If something happened, you can read logs saved and find who was on your pc down to the exact minute. All this stuff i named isn't things you need to do every now and then, just things to know if you ever needed to know.

Man, unless, and i am serious too!, i am completely retarded, all the amps i have owned in the past including ones i have been researching do not allow you to turn off the x-overs on the amp itself. I am not familiar with "phase issues" unless it's completely out of phase (wired backwards or total cancellation issues). Take, for example, the Sundown 3000D. I do not see a way to disable it's x-over. Or 2\4 channel amps that force you to choose LPF\Full\HPF with no on\off switch. To tell you the truth, i have never seen an amp that lets you bypass the onboard crossover. Ok, after researching JL Audio(because i noticed it was in your sig, ///M5) that JL audio allows this, but none of the amps i am researching do. Anyways, phase issues... care to explain or am i to try and set the x-overs on the amp as close to the x-overs of an external active x-over as possible and pray that i chose amps with the same slope as the ex active x-over is using?