shizzzon

i havent had an accident in my car since i purchased it 19 months ago but i have also had close calls because of retarded people. i can go on and on about how people fail to obey the law. If i were a cop, i swear to you all i could easily give out 4-7 tickets every morning just on the way to work which is only a 14 minute drive! I had my car broken into 2 week of December last year and it is STILL being fixed. It's not that it was badly damaged but a replaced window, some scratches on trim panel, removal of glass, paint, custom makeover of graphics, simonyz wax, tint, $2,200 I'm still having things done to it. See, the first time i had ever had to make a claim was when some idiot opened their door and dented my car, again, dumb people. He confessed to doing it, the dent was 3" in diameter, cost to fix - $898! Why? the cost to fix the dent, paint, special wax-simonyz and a new graphic design. My car is a pain to have to work on body-wise and the insurance knows it, but they think it's funny just like i do. haha, i had to edit the post because i typed "paint" so much the last line said - my car is a paint to work on, pretty funny. But what's funnier.... editing my post to say i edited my post and tell yo u what i edited even though the point of editing is not to see what i edited..... priceless.

u say it's burnt, that's clipped. It's thermal handling is higher than what that amp can put out so you clipped the sub(s) which means the gains were not set right. Now is a good time to go get an o-scope.

i should end this topic i suppose, hehe. After talking with my dealership, this setup will not be possible unless i spend $2,000+ on new suspension system! Because of the added weight and just 1 passenger, the car will be over it's max load capacity. Since i never anticipated on buying coil overs and new tires, i decided to force myself into finding a way to run 2 12" BLs ported off of a 3,000w amp and i found a way(like a patent miracle, hehe) so that will be the way i am going to go. From what i see, i will tune it right around 35hz. I might still throw some acousta0stuf in this ported box because any extra room will be nice but the net volume i will have for the 12s is 1.35cuft per sub but for a common chamber. I know of a way of increasing that volume some more but i don't need to be super picky on detail right now. Right now, Second Skin is awaiting a $500+ order in the near future. By the time their stuff is installed,i should be able to crash into a wall and the only thing i should hear is my GPS rerouting my destination,

This is my original plan and am wanting to make sure this is my best option for Loud and clean bass. I was used to running 1 Audioque 15" ported at 29hz in 7.5cu ft box off of 1400w, it was ungodly! Current setup - 1 Audioque 15" Sealed in 2.2 cu ft off of 1400w. It is a little less loud in the low frequency area due to a lot lower group delay as well but like how it sounds as well. Anyways, my current project is to have 3 12" Qs off of 3 optidrive 2000ds. Each q would be wired to 0.35ohms all in a common chamber sealed box roughly 2-2.4cu ft stuffed with polyfill (emailed fi about this to see what they say bout the polyfill). Now, these amps are rated at doind 1,600w at 1 ohm but at 14.4v, i believe if i'm around 13v flat, it should drop the wattage right around 14-1500w so with the BP option, it should be a perfect max match. I use O-scopes as well so it would be pure power, no clipping. I notice that the Qs vs the Bls are a lot less efficient and everyone is telling me that i may be pushing the qs too hard and get BLs, however i only have room to go sealed... Fi specifically says not to use BL's in sealed boxes and i don't want to run 1 12" BTL either i know it can't handle 6K worth of amps. So.... does the 3 12" Q sealed plan still hold as the loudest theoretical setup?

maybe i should have said subwoofers instead of drivers. Because all the subs i ever want are only from companies who do business mostly online. Audioque, DD audio, Fi, etc.... Now components, they are elsewhere. I don't like used mechanical devices or b rated mechanical devices. Go straight thru the company.

if u are ever interested in Security Film for your vehicle, go here- www.aceorangecounty.com They are the official installers in California who install security film on vehicles. They use Ace Security Laminate Film just like you may have seen on Armorcoat's website. I did not see any specs on Armorcoat's site.... kinda shady, but Ace's film is VERY strong. They have been on Fox, Discovery Channel, etc... They have a grade of film that they say is almost too hard to install on a vehicle, wanna give it a try? I have their 300 series on mine. It's so strong that the car alarm's impact sensor does not detect against window vibrations when hitting the window. I need to take it back to the dealer and have them increase the sensitivity on it, i just had the film installed a week ago. 300 series is what you need on a vehicle, 400 series is so thick, you might break your window trying to apply it. Why? Because so much pressure needs to be applied to get all the moisture out from behind the film. Contact this company if interested, they will ship you the material to you. It comes in 5ft rolls for $8\ft for the 300 series. Shipping ~$30-40 for the average vehicle. If trying to apply security film on curved glass, plan on spending approx 5-9 hrs properly installing the film. It is best to have someone who has installed security film before to do it for you. Allow 2 weeks to cure before tinting vehicle. If tint already exist, tint MUST be stripped before applying security film. Why? Security film bonds to the glass and becomes one with it. It's integrity will decrease if the film is not physically holding the glass together. Allow 60 days before security film is fully cure and you feel safe. Allow 2 weeks before rolling down your window as well if not tinting, if tinting over, after waiting 2 weeks, wait 2-5 days before rolling down windows depending on temperature outside. The colder, the longer you wait. Ace Security film spec- 300 series - rated for 350lb\sq in! 400 series - rated for 450lb\sq in!

what is the difference between welding wire and car audio power wire? There has to be something negative about welding cable or else everyone would use it because- www.weldingsupply.com sells 4/0 wire for $3.xx\ft ultraflex cable. So i know it doesn't have to do with flexibility issues. I read somewhere else that welding cable carries more current than same size power wire for car audio. So, i'm confused...

the only Hifonics line that is a real rated line is the XXV and i believe the old XX if i am not mistaken. That amp and anything cheaper is like a budget amp, like Lanzar's Vibe series. Anyway, i've owned an 88 crown vic before, big o car, humungo trunk. I don't know where 2 18s came from but there is no way for 2 18s to be ported in 13 cu ft... hehe, impossible for optimal results. Just those 2 amps you have, i'm guessing you're lookin at 1,800-2,300w max average combined with those amps. The port displacement for 2 18s with that real power is probably over 2cuft easy, let alone you need , i think 6cuft per sub minimal. Here is what i think as i have owned biggie trunks before- i ran 2 15s and had the town praisin me. what you could do- 2 15" BLs ported 4 12" SSD\Q\BLs (you need new amps for this) ported By the way, seein that you have 4 15s in your car, can you tell us exactly how you got them in the trunk? Specs such as external dimensions - height, width, depth of box. I'm curious to see if your current setup is even optimal. This would give me and anyone else reading this an idea on what it is sounding like for you so we can get an idea of what you may be impressed with.

good idea. I finally found Stinger's Reducer. stinger makes the reducer to go from 3/0 Wire back down to 0 gauge. So, this is going to be interesting. I'm planning on running a 3,000w amp in the rear but i can't install a batt back there because of weight. Seriously! So, running a 3/0 wire back to the amp and using a 300A alt should do the trick. The cool thing about the reducer... is using it for grounds, I guess i'll start planning now- I'm gonna attempt in the next few months 2 12" BL's ported off of 3,000w. I'm lookin at either the 3000w Sundown amp or Lanzar's 4000w Opti amp. Both do about the same power at my given voltage, just Lanzar's cheaper.

3000w... strap 2 opti2000ds together - rated at 4000w @1ohm 14.4v (each amp can take 0.5ohm loads, strapped @1ohm for max output). voltage dropping to 12.x volts per amp, if i am not mistaken outputs somewhere around where 1 ohm load outputs at which is 1600+ watts. So... from 14.4 to 12.x, you may lose almost 400w of potential output but again, even at 12v, 3,200w still sounds nice. CA&E i believe did the review a long time ago but a user commented on the wattage drop due to voltage. Can be had from $646 on up.(for 2 of them total)

for 2 ohm- 1 woofer - 1 or 4ohm 2 woofers - 0.5, 2 or 8 ohms 1 dvc2 ohm woofer - 1000-1200w amp @ 1ohm 2 dvc2 ohm woofers - 1500-2000w amp @ 2ohms($$$) or 1 2000w @0.5ohm(opti2000D, lot cheaper priced) 1 dvc1 ohm woofer - 1000-1200w amp @ 2ohm 2 dvc1 ohm woofers - 1500-2000w amp @ 1ohm or @4ohm(High Current amp bridged)

when it comes to drivers, i purchase directly from manufacturer...amps is a different story.

u mean to tell me i typed all that for nothing? AH! I'm suing for 60 seconds of time back

you also gotta tell us your Social Security number to determine a proper answer.... Actually, no, don't do that, that would give the wrong answer, AH! everything being equal - pros and cons of 3 10s SPL wise- just a hair more surface area than 2 12s more heat dissipation capable however, with your amp- 3 10s might not receive it's power it may want compared to 2 12s and with the 10s only a hair bigger in surface area, 2 12s with that amp should do very well. However again, the differences will not be detectable by the ear alone unless the 10s were positioned in different areas filling the cabin area better than 2 12s.

well it depends, are you worried about it breaking or are you worried about it decreasing SPL? breaking - wait til it cracks then get plexiglass, contact HO-alt for this. in the meantime, contact your dealer or manufacturer and see if there is any extra adhesive you can put around your glass to support it more. SPL - plexiglass, the thicker the better. One thing i recently did to my windows, don't know if it helped but you better find a damn good installer to install this- Security film, almost completely bulletproof, resists bombs and hard impacts from bats, crow bars, nail punchers, etc... IT is a very thick, flexible film applied to glass which when cured, prevents glass from shattering and prevents resonation from occurring if banging on the window. Film typically makes the glass stronger than your windshield, imagine that! Be careful though, some security film out there is cheap stuff. Be ready to spend approx $8-10 per sq ft.

When you're preparing to spend just over $2k just to prep your vehicle(no audio products in that price) for a stereo system upgrade because anything under 2,500w of power is just a typical install anymore...

toggling on or off an entire amp obviously is easy, toggle switch on remote wire. You do not a wiring diagram for these unless it's light controlled. Non light controlled - 2 prongs, wire in, wire out, simple. Lighted switch - 3 prongs, wire in, wire out, ground out. When the wire runs back out, it is also carrying the current to power the light. If you want lighted switched, look into LEDs to save on gauge size. Switching off specific channels on 4 channel amp- 1st off, contact the manufacturer of the amp and ask them if the amp will or could have any problems if you were to kill output on a set of channels, either 1-2 or 3-4 during playback via speaker wire and then ask via rca jacks. These are different, speaker wire is outputting live current and voltage, lots of amps have "short circuit protection" which might be what it would need if you toggled a switch onto the actual speaker wire. Although, repeated attempts overtime should eventually damage the protection circuitry but that's an assumption. Toggling via rca- this should be safe but ask your manufacturer for sure. The only way i would know how to do this via a toggle switch is pretty expensive via rca jack for just a turn\off feature. That would be to buy a line driver and run it to ONLY 2 of the 4 channels of this 4 channel amp. Make sure that the line driver's settings is set to disable\off\kill whatever their terminology is. You want the signal that passes through your stereo to go right through the line driver WITHOUT the lone driver interfering with the signal itself. You might have to adjust the gain on the line driver though so i hope you have an o-scope handy. the remote wire on the line driver would then have the toggle switch hooked to it so when disabled, signals passed through the driver would stop because....it's shut off. You should be able to find cheap line drivers for under $60-70.

well, start with the basics- Get a dmm and without the stereo turned on, the stereo must be completely off, check the impedance of the Q by putting the probes on the speaker terminal on the amp. If it reads anything other than 0.6 - 0.9 ohms, either your dmm is not calibrated or your sub is damaged or the speaker wire isn't plugged up to the sub,

with that amp, you would need at least an HC2400 battery. I believe you would be stuck with getting a group 31 battery anyway from anybody. Now, this one car i had, i had that much power running in it and all i had was stock batt and 200A alt and ran fine for almost 3 yrs before i sold it. My lights dimmed a little while driving, while parked, little worse but no electrical problems. My voltage never dropped below 11.5v either because i had a smart fuse on the power line to prevent a fire in case it ever did. But you are suppose to have 1 group31 batt in there to do it right with upgraded alt.

They got back with me, it will be fine to use Polyfill or a variation of it, they suggested Polyfill in itself isn't as good as Dacron 2 or 3. After visiting sites, Acousta-stuf seems to be pretty good. $9\per lb, they suggest that it outperforms dacron. I was doin some more research, i am to put more and more in the box until it causes negative results. Crutchfield states it can make it up to 30% larger, that was my typo, that's where i read it at, not 40 but 30% larger. As long as it doesn't get caught up in the Pole vent, i'm ok.... but according to install pics, that's gonna be tricky if i had to fill the whole box with it. But still yet, gimme some ideas people and tell me the dimensions because i had done the work in autocad for over a month now so try and make me feel stupid by finding out a box style in 1 day that's better, hehe.

Here is what i have to work with for all those who may be better at this than i am- Information- Red line on left, dimension on rear seat layed back in default position. Yellow line on left, dimension on rear seat tilted all the way back into cargo area. red box enclosure outline (pay no attention to that) All other lines below it, pay no attention to either. Horizontal and vertical line to the right - Vertical line marked at 20.25" allows 7" depth remaining in vehicle to install HC2400s in the rear. Horizontal line - 12" height clearance, more detailed specs below Main white outline - dimension of cargo area as follows- Take for granted enclosure will sit against rear seat(rear seat's tilt back takes up 3" of depth in the cargo area.) Depth of cargo area - 24.25" Width of cargo area- If staying no higher than 12", width is 42" If staying no higher than 13", width is 38.5" If going above 13" high starting from rear seat and working back- maximum height from rear seat - 22.3" and gradually drops to 18" high 11.5" deeper from starting point. After 18" high at 11.5" deep, height drops to 14.5" just after 0.5", drops to 13.5" high 3.5" further back and stays at 13.5" high for 2 inches deep, then drops to 13.0" 1" deeper, then gradually drops to 12" high going 4" deeper, then quickly drops to 10.0" high after 1.75" deep. Gotta love AutoCAD, anyways, those are the dimensions, this is everything goin in that area- 2 Kinetik HC2400s - 13" Long 6.7" Wide 8.5" High Sub box - you figure it out, 1 large mono amp for 2 subs or 3 mono amps for 3 subs. (If 3 monos, 2 are installed below the floor drawing, only 1 remains to be placed in the drawing area) 1 MORE amp for cabin door speakers.

If that's true then it's even more improbable to go ported for 2 12s with that power

i forgot to mention why not ported... according to what i am seeing, the required port area for a 4,000w amp on 2 12s would require about 30-40" length port to keep the port velocity under 20% of the speed of sound, the lower the %, the better. less restriction. However, i don't know how i would go about building the ported box because- this box design takes up almost the whole trunk for just 2-2.4 cu ft. The rest of the space is taken up for 2 Kinetik HC2400s. The only way to port would be to port straight up and i don't know if i can do that with that much length requirement. I would still have to stuff polyfill in the enclosure to even reach ideal results. If i port back, all the air would slam into the batteries and there is hardly any airspace left after the batteries are installed there resulting in a problem with the sound waves getting back into the cabin effectively. I've tried doing ported designs in AutoCAD before and got a headache from trying too long and just decided to go sealed. But at the time, i never considered polyfill... Some thing i was reading says that if i use 1 lb of polyfill for every 1 cu ft,the enclosure Net size should increase up to 40% larger. Now, that would mean if i had a 2.0 net to start with, 2 lbs should get me up to - 2.8 which is where i wanna be. According to WinISD, when it comes to tuning the box, the would be tuned at 39hz before polyfill, after polyfill - 31hz! It does have a nice flat response somewhat similar to a sealed box if not placed in a car. The design looks good of course but trying to model it in AutoCAD is another story. I'll try some more to try and get a ported design to fit in my hatch but last time i did that i gave up... I'll let you guys know what i find out.

Wow again, hehe, just got done researchin secondskin, they appear like the "gods of deadening". I'm gonna contact them this week, hopefully tomorrow, there stuff is a little pricey but I gotta pay for what i want. It looks like I may be payin somewhere around $1,000 to sound deaden my scion tc but i'll see what they say. I'm gonna have 3 12" Fi Qs back there with 3 1,500w amps and if anyone has seen the Tc hatch space, who knows how much rattle that's gonna make.

Wow, this thread is shocking to me. I thought Fatmat was a good brand.... I had ordered 100sq ft of Fatmat 3yrs ago of their regular stuff and loved it. 3 layers of it everywhere in this trunked car i had, it virtually stopped all rattles but whole car was completely metal so it was hard. Now, i ordered 100sq ft of rattle trap a few months ago and installing 3 layers of it everywhere i put it at. When i run out of it, i had planned on ordering more. I do not know the technical this or that and why it's important on what material is used, but should i switch?