shizzzon

without a battery in the back or a dedicated front to rear ground, you have no decent ground which will cause voltage drop.

Not to offend anyone here but the Ethos is pretty damn good price to performance.. Seriously. When people are still looking for even better price to performance, at some point, people need to take a step back and ask at what point can the US start innovating again? We have the man-power and intelligence to do anything and new companies should focus on making a name for themselves if they so choose to do so. This topic is made to go both ways but i strongly urge the audience of this market to literally drop the fad of the cheapest part possible as long as it functions and start bringing in new products that excel expectations at a cost DSS has to offer.

It should be a definite Primo. I vote keep innovating and filling the gap in the market.

Not just a trunk, but a lincoln trunk.. Walled off trunk with minimal flow into the cabin. His is just one of several vehicles that show that any vehicle is capable if you put enough work into it.

When both coils are wired up.. doubt it Quentin stated before if he were to rate these thermally it would be closer to 2500wrms per sub so a ~7k on 5k worth of subs is fine. And like Jon said, can't beat the price to performance! The drivers need 1800 watts to reach xmax in their recommended enclosures. The recommended power ratings I give are what are needed to be operate the sub. I'll never give a max "safe" power level. That's kinda like a car manufacturer saying its ok to run your car right below redline all the time. What was the context of the conversation you mentioned 2,500wrms? I know i remember you saying that. Of course variables in an install can alter suggested power ratings rated on a thermal level and you are rating them differently which is fine but i know you mentioned 2500w before in conversation. Now you got me questioning in what context it was mentioned in.

When both coils are wired up.. doubt it Quentin stated before if he were to rate these thermally it would be closer to 2500wrms per sub so a ~7k on 5k worth of subs is fine. And like Jon said, can't beat the price to performance!

Well, it seems it's always something when it comes to my exotic builds.. Now, all 3 companies who manufactured shocks for the newer Gen Scion xB have all been pulled and discontinued without reason! Talking with a performance retailer, Tokico has went as as far as discontinuing all shocks for all scion vehicles as of 2014 without reason. I don't know what's going on but something is up.. So, I need a source, sources that I can contact about custom shocks. I need it as a backup. I do not know if the current stock shocks are equipped to handle the new coil springs and won't know for some time until installed. I do not know stock spring rate but current spring rate on new coils is 360.

They only do springs. That's where i got my springs from too.

I do not know if i will need any. I'm doing homework just in case.. I don't want to be driving around with a ton of added weight and the stock shocks not able to handle it properly like my last car wasn't able to. Just taking precautions.

I bet seahawks.

What is SCHA cable? 1- when running power cable, each end should be fused. Front to rear runs for example. However some instances are not required in my opinion for typical reasons- Wire from amp to battery bank if the wire is less than ~3ft long. Wire from alt to battery(up front battery). The fuse should be close to the battery. I see no reason to have a fuse close to the alternator. 2- if you need to use more than 1 fuse to sum the total fusing for your run, you run them in parallel, not series. What you described is series wiring. If you had a 250A fuse at each end of the cable, that's only 250A of fusing. 3- don't fuse at 500A even on 4/0 cable! Another personal opinion of mine, do not fuse a single cable(even if it were 2000KCMil cable) larger than 300-350A. The time it would take a LARGE fuse to blow, something dangerous would probably already happen preventing the fuse from protecting from fire, etc On your alt charge cable, fuse per wire, not by the alt itself. Example- Let's say you ran 3 1/0 cables from alt to front battery. I'd fuse each of those cables with a 200-250A fuse.

I dont know.. hopefully good enough that you'd buy one, lol. I can tell you now what you'd get- IT does have some scratches here and there on the top and sides. I do have the remote gain knob and wire for it(never used) I believe i even still have the allen wreches as well(never used) I can do $820 shipped. See where we go from there. PS- I have recently bench tested the amp to be in working order. It was pulled out of my car last April of 2013 when i got my new car now and has been sitting ever since. I did have 4 of these amps. 2 have been sold and the last two wait to be sold.

I have 2 crescendo BC5500ds left for sale. What you wanna pay for one of them?

Looks like someone is upgrading their MOD status.

Happy Birthday again! He was celebrating at 4 this mornin, hehe

i would advise removing the amp out of your car completely and putting it on a power supply and test it there. Or just take a single 12v battery that is not connected to anything and hook the amp up to it. Run rcas to it from something NOT installed in the car at all and see if you still get noise.

After speaking with technician, they suggest the following- They believe that one of the channels is being driven by more input voltage than the other channel. They want you to troubleshoot eliminating all noise and guaranteeing properly balanced preout voltage before concluding there is something wrong with the output section of the amplifier. They currently do not believe it requires service until the noise issue is completely removed first.

E = MC2

Speaking of quentin.. i'm sure he has some ideas.

www.coilsprings.com you MUST provide the actual part number for your rear STOCK suspension to them for them to help you. You can search online for this or ask dealership.

IT looks like you got the alt to batt good. Have you ran front to rear ground though?

OK.. HOLY JESUS! First off, don't ever do that again! lol 10.2v is WAY TOO LOW Second, if it truly is just stock everything, one way to increase voltage back up, assuming your battery isn't old or damaged, is to run a dedicated 1/0 or larger cable from front batt GROUND to rear to a distribution block as close to amp as possible. Run amp's ground to this block. Also, from this block, run it to car's frame as well. From alternator to front battery, run 1/0 cable from alt bracket or as close to alt as possible to battery's ground post. Then finish doing the Big 3. That should help voltage a bit.

thought u were using youtube.. you posted it RIGHT! Photobucket vids dont display play buttons.. You have to click the pic to play the vid.

it still works.. i just embedded a video then removed it.. Just copy the URL and paste real simple.. In this format- WWW<dot>COM/ <WATCH>?V=(VIDEO CODE) and that's it