shizzzon
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Posts posted by shizzzon
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toggling on or off an entire amp obviously is easy, toggle switch on remote wire.
You do not a wiring diagram for these unless it's light controlled.
Non light controlled - 2 prongs, wire in, wire out, simple.
Lighted switch - 3 prongs, wire in, wire out, ground out. When the wire runs back out, it is also carrying the current to power the light. If you want lighted switched, look into LEDs to save on gauge size.
Switching off specific channels on 4 channel amp-
1st off, contact the manufacturer of the amp and ask them if the amp will or could have any problems if you were to kill output on a set of channels, either 1-2 or 3-4 during playback via speaker wire and then ask via rca jacks.
These are different, speaker wire is outputting live current and voltage, lots of amps have "short circuit protection" which might be what it would need if you toggled a switch onto the actual speaker wire. Although, repeated attempts overtime should eventually damage the protection circuitry but that's an assumption.
Toggling via rca- this should be safe but ask your manufacturer for sure. The only way i would know how to do this via a toggle switch is pretty expensive via rca jack for just a turn\off feature.
That would be to buy a line driver and run it to ONLY 2 of the 4 channels of this 4 channel amp. Make sure that the line driver's settings is set to disable\off\kill whatever their terminology is. You want the signal that passes through your stereo to go right through the line driver WITHOUT the lone driver interfering with the signal itself. You might have to adjust the gain on the line driver though so i hope you have an o-scope handy. the remote wire on the line driver would then have the toggle switch hooked to it so when disabled, signals passed through the driver would stop because....it's shut off.
You should be able to find cheap line drivers for under $60-70.
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well, start with the basics-
Get a dmm and without the stereo turned on, the stereo must be completely off, check the impedance of the Q by putting the probes on the speaker terminal on the amp. If it reads anything other than 0.6 - 0.9 ohms, either your dmm is not calibrated or your sub is damaged or the speaker wire isn't plugged up to the sub,
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with that amp, you would need at least an HC2400 battery.
I believe you would be stuck with getting a group 31 battery anyway from anybody.
Now, this one car i had, i had that much power running in it and all i had was stock batt and 200A alt and ran fine for almost 3 yrs before i sold it. My lights dimmed a little while driving, while parked, little worse but no electrical problems. My voltage never dropped below 11.5v either because i had a smart fuse on the power line to prevent a fire in case it ever did.
But you are suppose to have 1 group31 batt in there to do it right with upgraded alt.
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They got back with me, it will be fine to use Polyfill or a variation of it, they suggested Polyfill in itself isn't as good as Dacron 2 or 3.
After visiting sites, Acousta-stuf seems to be pretty good. $9\per lb, they suggest that it outperforms dacron.
I was doin some more research, i am to put more and more in the box until it causes negative results. Crutchfield states it can make it up to 30% larger, that was my typo, that's where i read it at, not 40 but 30% larger.
As long as it doesn't get caught up in the Pole vent, i'm ok.... but according to install pics, that's gonna be tricky if i had to fill the whole box with it.
But still yet, gimme some ideas people and tell me the dimensions because i had done the work in autocad for over a month now so try and make me feel stupid by finding out a box style in 1 day that's better, hehe.
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Here is what i have to work with for all those who may be better at this than i am-
Information-
Red line on left, dimension on rear seat layed back in default position.
Yellow line on left, dimension on rear seat tilted all the way back into cargo area.
red box enclosure outline (pay no attention to that)
All other lines below it, pay no attention to either.
Horizontal and vertical line to the right -
Vertical line marked at 20.25" allows 7" depth remaining in vehicle to install HC2400s in the rear.
Horizontal line - 12" height clearance, more detailed specs below
Main white outline - dimension of cargo area as follows-
Take for granted enclosure will sit against rear seat(rear seat's tilt back takes up 3" of depth in the cargo area.)
Depth of cargo area - 24.25"
Width of cargo area-
If staying no higher than 12", width is 42"
If staying no higher than 13", width is 38.5"
If going above 13" high starting from rear seat and working back-
maximum height from rear seat - 22.3" and gradually drops to 18" high 11.5" deeper from starting point.
After 18" high at 11.5" deep, height drops to 14.5" just after 0.5", drops to 13.5" high 3.5" further back and stays at 13.5" high for 2 inches deep, then drops to 13.0" 1" deeper, then gradually drops to 12" high going 4" deeper, then quickly drops to 10.0" high after 1.75" deep.
Gotta love AutoCAD,
anyways, those are the dimensions, this is everything goin in that area-
2 Kinetik HC2400s -
13" Long
6.7" Wide
8.5" High
Sub box - you figure it out,
1 large mono amp for 2 subs or 3 mono amps for 3 subs.
(If 3 monos, 2 are installed below the floor drawing, only 1 remains to be placed in the drawing area)
1 MORE amp for cabin door speakers.
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40% with polyfill is a joke...If that's true then it's even more improbable to go ported for 2 12s with that power
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i forgot to mention why not ported...
according to what i am seeing, the required port area for a 4,000w amp on 2 12s would require about 30-40" length port to keep the port velocity under 20% of the speed of sound, the lower the %, the better. less restriction.
However, i don't know how i would go about building the ported box because-
this box design takes up almost the whole trunk for just 2-2.4 cu ft. The rest of the space is taken up for 2 Kinetik HC2400s.
The only way to port would be to port straight up and i don't know if i can do that with that much length requirement.
I would still have to stuff polyfill in the enclosure to even reach ideal results.
If i port back, all the air would slam into the batteries and there is hardly any airspace left after the batteries are installed there resulting in a problem with the sound waves getting back into the cabin effectively.
I've tried doing ported designs in AutoCAD before and got a headache from trying too long and just decided to go sealed. But at the time, i never considered polyfill...
Some thing i was reading says that if i use 1 lb of polyfill for every 1 cu ft,the enclosure Net size should increase up to 40% larger.
Now, that would mean if i had a 2.0 net to start with, 2 lbs should get me up to - 2.8 which is where i wanna be.
According to WinISD, when it comes to tuning the box, the would be tuned at 39hz before polyfill, after polyfill - 31hz! It does have a nice flat response somewhat similar to a sealed box if not placed in a car.
The design looks good of course but trying to model it in AutoCAD is another story.
I'll try some more to try and get a ported design to fit in my hatch but last time i did that i gave up...
I'll let you guys know what i find out.
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This is my original plan and am wanting to make sure this is my best option for Loud and clean bass.
I was used to running 1 Audioque 15" ported at 29hz in 7.5cu ft box off of 1400w, it was ungodly!
Current setup - 1 Audioque 15" Sealed in 2.2 cu ft off of 1400w.
It is a little less loud in the low frequency area due to a lot lower group delay as well but like how it sounds as well.
Anyways, my current project is to have 3 12" Qs off of 3 optidrive 2000ds. Each q would be wired to 0.35ohms all in a common chamber sealed box roughly 2-2.4cu ft stuffed with polyfill (emailed fi about this to see what they say bout the polyfill). Now, these amps are rated at doind 1,600w at 1 ohm but at 14.4v, i believe if i'm around 13v flat, it should drop the wattage right around 14-1500w so with the BP option, it should be a perfect max match. I use O-scopes as well so it would be pure power, no clipping.
I notice that the Qs vs the Bls are a lot less efficient and everyone is telling me that i may be pushing the qs too hard and get BLs, however i only have room to go sealed...
Fi specifically says not to use BL's in sealed boxes and i don't want to run 1 12" BTL either i know it can't handle 6K worth of amps.
So.... does the 3 12" Q sealed plan still hold as the loudest theoretical setup?
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Wow again, hehe, just got done researchin secondskin, they appear like the "gods of deadening".
I'm gonna contact them this week, hopefully tomorrow, there stuff is a little pricey but I gotta pay for what i want.
It looks like I may be payin somewhere around $1,000 to sound deaden my scion tc but i'll see what they say.
I'm gonna have 3 12" Fi Qs back there with 3 1,500w amps and if anyone has seen the Tc hatch space, who knows how much rattle that's gonna make.
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Wow, this thread is shocking to me.
I thought Fatmat was a good brand....
I had ordered 100sq ft of Fatmat 3yrs ago of their regular stuff and loved it. 3 layers of it everywhere in this trunked car i had, it virtually stopped all rattles but whole car was completely metal so it was hard.
Now, i ordered 100sq ft of rattle trap a few months ago and installing 3 layers of it everywhere i put it at.
When i run out of it, i had planned on ordering more. I do not know the technical this or that and why it's important on what material is used, but should i switch?
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if you want extreme lows, play a different song, hehe.
I'll wait for Fi or an experienced user to answer your question for certain but i would assume the Q would have better response due it's better SQ performance in the low end range.
I'm not saying the BL won't be good for lows because i am getting 2 BL 10s for the same purpose as you but am running 3x more power than your Crossfire's birthsheet.
The BL is what you are gonna need and at the minimum i keep seeing the P Chamfer as a high recommendation for an add-on option.
The BL is also more efficient than the Q is according to specs.
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yea, sounds like me too, "savin up", hehe.
I just installed an Alpine IVA-W205 in the tC. Now, i'm waiting for the Blackbird II Nav unit to come out again... it's on backorder. As soon as it does, it's that and\or the subs...
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1.7cf?yea, that's the largest i can go with what i am throwin in there. I gotta keep the port velocity low so the port displacement in this box is taking up quite a bit of room.
1.7 is still within the 1.0-2.4 recommended limit for 2 10s.
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I've been researching Fi's products and askin questions here and there and am finally set on what i wanna do so i'm gonna lay the plan out for everybody and see what you all think.
It may take a while to do this because i need to buy the subs, amps wood and plexiglass... so don't expect it within the month.
This will be going in a 2007 Scion tC.
in the rear hatch area-
2 10" Fi BL Dual 2 ohm(1.4)
2 Lanzar OptiDrive 2000Ds (4,000w capable)
I chose these so i can wire the subs to a 1.4ohm DC rest load and strap these 2000Ds.
The 2000Ds strapped at 1ohm produce ~4KW but at 2 ohms, produce ~3,200w.
After resistance rise, this should max these subs out fairly well.
I will be getting the P Chamfer, Cooling Option, FlatWind and Universal options.
These will be installed in a 1.7cuft ported box tuned to 32-33hz.
Powered off of 1 or 2 Kinetik HC2000s in the back and either an HC1600 or HC1800 under the hood.
Alternator will come later but will be an Iraggi 300A alt.
I need to regain some HP in this car once i do this so some performance modifications will be coming soon as well.
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if your askin what should the voltage be from the amp output... that's impossible for us to answer.
Resistance changes with frequency, power(volume setting), box type and build, etc...
The only real way to setup an amp properly is with an oscilloscope.
IF your amp is suppose to do 1200w @1ohm, the max voltage it can do at 1 ohm according to rating CLEAN is about 35v. But if the amp is rated to do, lets say 400w @ 4ohm, you would see 40v. You might be able to get 40v at 1 ohm too if you were competin and blastin the hell out of it.
Point is just with voltage, you wont get anywhere. You would have to have an ammeter hooked up to it and calculate the resistance on the fly and THEN go by a chart or by what someone has recommended the voltage to be set to at a given resistance.
Mind you, the above "so-so" test woul be tested on only 1 frequency, it is best to go through a lot of frequencies to get the smoothest adjustments possible and to ensure no frequencies are clipping, hence... an ocilloscope comes in play.
Vellerman sells one for under $250, it's handheld.
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based upon researching Sundown Audio, you just fully answered my question, Thank You,
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i think u are missing what i am saying.
I know a lot of companies rate their subs by what amp rating they want you to use so the "General Public" can have a long lasting setup. However, some companies i have had experience with, Audioque as being one, rates their subs AFTER rise. I should probably clarify that by saying, they rate their subs off of TRUE power than just by amplifier rated power.
My last setup, Audioque, was a choice i made because a competitor convinced me to use their HD3 sub for daily since he did off of 1 Hifonics Colossus amp, 3,200w amp on a 1,000w rated sub and never had a problem.
An EQ can boost or cut different frequencies. If you cut power to certain frequencies, the wattage being sent to them would then be less... If the wattage that was being sent to them was way too high, an EQ can fix that by reducing the power being sent around that center frequency.
If you were to setup a sub to play a range between 25-80hz and were to meter the receiving power let's say every 8hz starting with 25hz, their would be a variation in wattage that the sub is receiving because of tuning of box and box build itself.
Not every frequency will be reading at MAX amplitude on an oscilloscope from my own experience and to get the max power out of your playable frequency range, you can use an EQ to boost those frequencies which aren't maxing in amplitude and cut those who may be clipping.
That is what this whole post is about. Using an amp that may be a little bit more powerful than necessary so all frequencies(or as many as possible) can be within the proper wattage receiving threshold. No frequencies clipping but as many as possible receiving max amplitude and no frequency being metered as outputting more power than was is safe for any Fi sub.
I'm sure if i hook up a 100w amp...it isnt worth hooking an o-scope too.
If i hookup a 10,000w amp to an SSD, proper cutting of the power on every center frequency of an EQ i set can still play that sub safely for daily as long as it stays within it's power handling limits. Again, that's what this whole post is about.
For a Q or BL, will a 1,000w amp max out it's power handling capabilities because i know i cant get 1,000w out of a 1,000w amp for daily or should i step up to a 2,000w amp and ensure that the sub doesnt receive over 1,000w at any frequency if that is it's real thermal threshold if that is how they are tested.... by real power rather than by amplifier rated power...
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since your comparin amps by price to performance ratio, why don't you just get 4 opti4000ds?
They can be had for $900 per amp, 4000w @1ohm. You get a lot more power than what u lookin for for only $100 more. OF course if u dont want it, just turn it down.
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I want to make sure of this so i know what kind of amps to buy.
Are Fi's subs rated before or after impedance rise?
This is very important.
Giving examples-
Audiobahn Eternal rated at 900wrms
Audioque HD3 rated at 1000wrms
I ran 1 eternal off of a 1250wrms amp and partially damaged it with a test tone for 42seconds with 100% clean signal reading from oscilloscope.
the power it was ACTUALLY receiving - 334w!
Conclusion - Audiobahn rated this sub before rise.
I ran 1 Audioque off of a 2,500w amp and i ran test tones, bass tracks, clipped songs(intentionally) and never damaged the sub.
The power it was ACTUALLY receiving - 1,413w.
Conclusion - Audioque rated this sub after rise!
If i want to run the Qs or BLs which are rated at 1000wrms, IF the above is answered, it will let me know whether to purchase a 1000w amp or a 2,000w amp with an EQ used to prevent frequencies from exceeding 1,000w.
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I cannot port back because I need to install a kinetik HC2400 battery, opti4000D amp, w 4 channel amp, 30 band EQ, 3 way crossover and power inverter back there which all would have to be mounted in front of the port which would cause problems.
I was just talking to someone where I'm at and they said that going sealed in hatch-ed cars always seem to be better in his experience. Now, he isn't no car audio fanatic but I'm wondering how loud sealed really is because I have always been ported and like the lows. As long as I got good loud response down to 26hz and consistent db numbers from 32 - 55hz +/- 3db tolerance, I'm satisfied.
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i have a maximum of 42" wide x 12" high x 19.25" deep i can use keeping everything else stock.
The amps will be mounted on top of the box but an extra Kinetik battery in the back WILL take up some of this box room.
After some calculations, i came up with 2.8-3.0cuft NET after displacements for the 2 following setups-
3 10" Fi Qs SEALED off of 4,000w or...
2 10" Fi BLs PORTED at 34hz off of 3,000w
I wish i could do 12s but i do not think subs and port up would sound good.
PS- i dont have room to do 12s unless i aim them up and can only do them if i port up as well...i have no boxes to test how that would sound either...)
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Big, BIG Wire and terminals
in General Audio
Posted
I need 15/0 AWG size who makes it?
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Haha, did i make you think i was retarded for a minute or just straight crazy?, hehe
No but seriously, does anyone know where i can get 2/0 or maybe even 3/0 wire?
Also, I would need to know anyone who makes battery terminals for these sizes and or the following-
fused distribution capability
non fused distro capability
2/0 to 1/0 reducers or
3/0 to 1/0 reducers.
Reasoning-
Lanzar's engineers should be smacked in the face for being retarded.
They released a 6000D, 6,000w amp with ONLY 1 set of power and ground terminals!
Hifonics Goliath is only a 5kw amp and it has 2 sets!
Anyways, i was doin some research and anything over 4.5 ft, yes, that's 54 inches, of 1/0 wire for 600A of current will cause the wire to melt down.
So, better make it no longer than 4ft long, huh?
1/0 wiring for 4 ft is 0.3v drop, pretty big for just 4 ft. 3/0 is only 0.14v drop, 2/0 is 0.24v
Any info?