Tenacious

Slammin and Jammin is coming back to Lebanon on Memorial Day weekend. If the turnout is anything like it was in previous years... it'll put almost any other show to shame. I'm not sure how big the MECA turnout will be, but the car show itself is ridiculous.

Curious about the weight differences.. Like full sheet (4x8)... Depends on the manufacturer.. A 4'x8' sheet of MDF (3/4") is around 90 lbs and cheap "birch plywood" will weigh around 60 lbs with a good amount of variance. Some manufacturers may have MDF that weighs, for example, 80 lbs per sheet and others may have MDF that weighs 100 lbs per sheet. Cheap birch ply often has a core made from cheaper wood and has a birch veneer on it. EDIT: Baltic birch According to one manufacturer's specs, a 4'x8' sheet of baltic birch that is 3/4" thick weighs 95lbs. I didn't realize it weighed about the same as MDF. We learn something new every day.

Phenolic birch works well, plus it looks great. It can get expensive, though. Appleply Maple is another alternative to baltic birch. In all honesty, you're not going to notice much difference between any types of wood as long as you're not using particle board or cheap plywood with a lot of voids. The weight differences are huge, though.

I have the Fifth Edition. I need to get the Seventh

Once these get rolling, we will stock more color options. I am considering a full set of blue for my own car.Meh, I'd save you money. Finding properly shielded interconnects in our price range isn't very easy. With that said, our products are made with American labor while avoiding chinese parts as best we can and we offer a 5 year no questions asked warranty. SounDrive wasn't made to make money - it was made to offer a product that people can enjoy at a reasonable price while making just enough profit to justify our time. I've been in this hobby for a few years and never ran into a noise issue in one of my vehicles attributable to the RCA cables shielding. That includes the times I've wired my entire vehicle for less than the cost of one 17' SounDrive cable, which I've been doing for the past decade....and I use a few cables in my installs. Nor have I ever needed to warranty a cable. "Reasonable" price is rather subjective..... WestCo on DIYMA has some cockamamie ideas.... Two local guys have eliminated a lot of noise that was present in their vehicles before the RCA swap, but thank you for your account of your personal experiences.

Once these get rolling, we will stock more color options. I am considering a full set of blue for my own car. Meh, I'd save you money. Finding properly shielded interconnects in our price range isn't very easy. With that said, our products are made with American labor while avoiding chinese parts as best we can and we offer a 5 year no questions asked warranty. SounDrive wasn't made to make money - it was made to offer a product that people can enjoy at a reasonable price while making just enough profit to justify our time.

Looking good

The substage in this vehicle is really clean. Can't wait to hear it once everything is all together.

Make sure you don't have an oil leak, that's what killed my starter.. same car (well, mines the 12 valve OHV)

Pretty much. They're in a league of their own.

Let us know a budget and we can recommend SPL oriented subs... But until you give us a budget... DD Z

Nope. Smaller = lower efficiency and more compression. Your score goes up because of other reasons (shift in resonance) not because of smaller size. One of the biggest miss-conceptions in car audio... Yes, but that still means that the smaller box is louder on the meter. Another misconception - just because a larger enclosure is more efficient doesn't mean that it will meter better.

Port bends near entrances and exits are bad... If you want low tuning in limited space, a PR is the way to go.

I might I'm gunna beat on that sub until it gives out on me. It's still doing low 140s I'm seriously hoping you're a troll right now if you claim one of your coils reads 20+ ohms and you're still going to "beat on it"

You can have a pretty box, but you'll need to throw together a lot of boxes until you reach your final goal.. I wouldn't recommend making it pretty until you have your final design down. Have you considered using ultracaps instead of batteries? You'll gain on the meter, along with many other benefits.

You could get an HDC3 15 for that price.

I would highly suggest not to do so. I guess you "could" send you zcon to PSI, then order zv4 softparts, and send that to them as well. But, even still, the measurements might not line up, and could sound like poop. Well my voice coil is all messed up right now on the Zcon,so I'm thinking about an upgrade. I have it running on a 3500 no clipping and not ran below 12 volts I don't know why the coils are going out. One of the coils are reading 20.8 and changing constantly but the other coil is 2.4 a sign that it is also going out I just want something that can handle the power Lol. Installation issue man, not sub. I played my zcon full tilt on my bc5500 for 8 months. I have had this sub in my car for 1 year 2 months defiantly not a installation issue. It could very well be caused by improper settings or clipping.

I would highly suggest not to do so. I guess you "could" send you zcon to PSI, then order zv4 softparts, and send that to them as well. But, even still, the measurements might not line up, and could sound like poop. Well my voice coil is all messed up right now on the Zcon,so I'm thinking about an upgrade. I have it running on a 3500 no clipping and not ran below 12 volts I don't know why the coils are going out. One of the coils are reading 20.8 and changing constantly but the other coil is 2.4 a sign that it is also going out I just want something that can handle the power A Zv4 recone would be a downgrade. Motors and coils are often designed around each other. The ZCON already has a 8 layer coil. I have a feeling you're still clipping it.

Smaller boxes CAN be better.. That's generally the case for 50-60Hz burp boxes, though.

Fiberglass batting in a 1 mil plastic bag works well compared to most other materials. It's mostly useful for treating doors, though. It wouldn't be very pretty stuck all over panels in your vehicle. A dashmat is the only product I can think of for helping problems with dash reflections. Your best bet would probably be aiming the drivers so that reflections are avoided in the first place.

If you're doing it for competition... burp box, invest in a meter for testing, and the most power allowed with solid electrical. I highly doubt you'll hit 150+ in a single BL12 setup that isn't aimed at strictly burping.

It's almost time for one of the bigger MECA shows again. Who's going? My build won't be finished, but I'll be there since it's a 10 minute drive..

Efficiency will vary.. It's generally around ~70-75% for most quality Korean amps on a 1 ohm reactive load. THD really isn't that useful to know - if your gains are set properly with an oscilloscope it will be approximately the same for all options. (explanation on why THD shouldn't be a deciding factor - https://www.dropbox.com/s/v1jmzfm2dpqjpe7/THD_.pdf ) And one question.. why are you worried about SNR on an amp that large?

I'm jealous.

If the parameters are accurate, they can be useful. However they often aren't accurate, and even if they are accurate, will change significantly as the suspension loosens up. Personally I'm more concerned with SPL at this point in my life. At my listening levels, it's impossible to discern small imperfections in sound. I can understand your side of the argument, but it simply doesn't apply so much to my listening habits as it does your own. why would any reputable company publish inaccurate specs? I was going to post something showing how you're constructing a straw man argument to defend your position but I think that would be lost on you. The fact of the matter is, assuming the T/S specs were measured correctly, we can predict how a woofer will behave. Its physics. You would be surprised. Side note, most of these "reputable companies" nowadays pay a buildhouse to do everything... There are very few companies doing a lot on their own. Do you trust Chinese specs? Because I don't. Personally, my subs have a fat "Made in the USA" sticker on the motor.