Tenacious

If the parameters are accurate, they can be useful. However they often aren't accurate, and even if they are accurate, will change significantly as the suspension loosens up. Personally I'm more concerned with SPL at this point in my life. At my listening levels, it's impossible to discern small imperfections in sound. I can understand your side of the argument, but it simply doesn't apply so much to my listening habits as it does your own.

Yep, DB Revolution is doing some pretty impressive numbers

It's not really that, it's just that you can't be completely sure about the response unless you also take the cabin into consideration. I believe our car generally has a small peak in the low 40hz region Iv usually peaked right around 30-32 with most enclosures I have tryed. Even when i tuned enclosures different I peaked around 36 but that was because I was tuned at 33. There was a slight gain in the low 40s but not enough for a new peak

Actually sensitivity and efficiency are well defined and easily calculated with TS parameters independent of manufacturer sensitivity ratings. A manufacturer can try to fudge their sensitivity spec, but as long as you have the TS parameters it is very easy to accurately calculate: Sensitivity (SPL) = 112 + 10*Log(9.64 * 10^(-10) * Fs^3 * Vas / Qes) *Vas in liters That's assuming the TS parameters are accurate. It's a sad but true fact that a bunch of the popular mass produced Chinese subs can stray pretty far from their published specs... Which is why I tend to avoid said brands.

When, what price, what colors? When- 1-2months Price- Unknown, still R&Ding features and future potential Colors- Black. LED color- R&D currently Any spoilers on cool features that will set this apart from other voltmeters?

Agreed. Not used to getting 9 inches around here. Everything is all but shut down

Yea, I live in a really convenient location. I'm about 10 minutes from Lebanon and go to school in Knoxville, so between the two there's usually well over 10 shows per year without any significant driving for me. I'm waiting on a recone so my build is currently at a dead halt.

It's not really that, it's just that you can't be completely sure about the response unless you also take the cabin into consideration. I believe our car generally has a small peak in the low 40hz region

Welcome to the forum

Dayton HO 10s like small boxes and have pretty small mounting depth.

I wouldn't order from Alibaba unless you're making a huge order. Here's one on eBay, 3 wire is what you'll want because it will turn on and off http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-DC-0-100V-LED-Voltmeter-Voltage-Meter-Green-Digital-Panel-Meter-/380777495447?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58a81b7b97

Power compression ranged from ~1 to 7dB in a test done by JBL.

Different drivers have different degrees of power compression, which can very much make the drivers stray from their efficiency ratings at various power levels. Also, there isn't a well-followed standard behind most manufacturer's efficiency ratings, as was stated earlier in the thread. my guess is that you can minimize that difference if you compare subs of similar power ratings and/or restrict the applied power to something reasonable. Thermal compression varies with temperature, which is dependant on quite a few factors. Flux compression varies from motor to motor. If you're significantly underpowering both subs, the difference would "probably" be minimal. But, who does that in the car audio world?

Stingers are $3 from Alibaba.. overpriced IMO. A $5 or less one from eBay will perform just as well, if not better. The refresh rate on the Stinger (same as AudioTechnix) is too slow for my taste. Just don't get ripped off by the SMD meter.. I'd get an analog meter with a needle before that overpriced crap.

Different drivers have different degrees of power compression, which can very much make the drivers stray from their efficiency ratings at various power levels. Also, there isn't a well-followed standard behind most manufacturer's efficiency ratings, as was stated earlier in the thread.

go with the recommended enclosure spec from SSA. if you have you're limiting dimensions someone could probably design the box for you. I second this.

Umm, wrong. It means exactly what it is, efficiency is related to output per watt. Doesn't mean manufacturers measure it appropriately for the task at hand. Actually, different loudspeakers react differently to different power levels. I'm sure you've heard of power compression. The efficiency rating is nothing more than the output at 1w/1m. It does not always tell how the loudspeaker will perform with more power. Nice way to try to spin that lol. Ignore it all you like. I am very aware of power compression. How am I spinning things around when that is what I said in my original post, when you decided to call me wrong?

Unless you're taking the acoustic properties of the cabin of the car into consideration, the enclosure will have an entirely different response once in the car.

You are forgetting acoustics my friend. The post wasn't meant to be entirely technical. But touche. 1w SPL means nothing, though, since all subs react differently to varying amounts of power. Umm, wrong. It means exactly what it is, efficiency is related to output per watt. Doesn't mean manufacturers measure it appropriately for the task at hand.Todd, the answer is really rather simple. Box size & cheap power. PA drivers need a ton of space and while they run with less power, power is cheap so why waste all the space. I have an awesome car audio errr pro audio driver in my basement. The first "beast" subs were pro audio subs that were slightly massaged for car audio applications, but this is when a 1000w amp was rare so you just dealt with the needed box size since it was the best choice. Actually, different loudspeakers react differently to different power levels. I'm sure you've heard of power compression. The efficiency rating is nothing more than the output at 1w/1m. It does not always tell how the loudspeaker will perform with more power.

If you're going for SPL, go ahead and throw away any ideas of modeling. Nothing beats trial and error and experience, no matter what anyone says. The cabin will affect the enclosure greatly, and I happen to know quite a bit about the Taurus/Sable... Shoot me a text if you still have my number and want to know anything specific. My new box should be going in soon, and I'll let you know how that goes: same subs, same car, trunk sealed off, and an 8" aero. I think I'm going to start off with around 4.5 cubes since they'll be on a JBL Crown 6k soon. If you just want a pretty flat response, check out some of these spreadsheets http://audio.claub.net/software/jbabgy/jbagby.html

You are forgetting acoustics my friend. The post wasn't meant to be entirely technical. But touche. 1w SPL means nothing, though, since all subs react differently to varying amounts of power.

According to most sensitivity ratings, it would take thousands of watts to break 120dB... This should tell you that we need to disregard sensitivity ratings for subwoofers.

Be aware that batteries store power, they don't create it... What size alternator will you be using?

It will likely be longer than that right now.

I despise fur... Almost as bad as using bedliner on the interior of your vehicle