Tenacious

Reread the thread. 95Honda and M5 both posted reasons why. No one supporting the test even responded to those posts with a meaningful reply. And frankly we've discussed clamp tests on this forum a couple dozen times. Last I checked the search function worked fine.... And if you were paying attention, you would have understood this was M5's point. The READER shouldn't HAVE to ask. A valid test conducted in a meaningful and useful manor would have that information presented as part of the details of the test. The very fact we would NEED to ask in itself supports the test's lack of credibility and the fact the tester either isn't aware of these factors or doesn't know how to calculate them, or more likely both. But because he's posted numbers, the internet assumes it's valid and meaningful and it's everyone else's job to prove why this isn't the case. That is exactly ass backwards of how science and metrology actually works in the "real world". The onus is on the tester to prove it's validity, not the other way around. And he hasn't done that, nor have you or anyone else supporting the test....but that doesn't keep the lemmings from jumping on board with it. Though you blissfully skipped over 95Hondas post where he stated he's had Fluke meter with a 25% variance while ranting about nobody citing examples of why the test is flawed. Selective memory? Don't you find the statement about one fluke meter being around 25% off from the actual results rather anecdotal? I've never heard of that issue being had elsewhere.

I understand their view, and their concern is not legitimate in this case, in my opinion. The results may not be 100% precise, but they're accurate enough for the purpose they serve. If you require an amp test to be accurate within 10 watts for your personal use.... so be it. I don't. You're the only one name calling here...

I haven't ran any ppi yet. I'm hopping they do me good lol I like my new PPI amp, and I've heard even better things about the old ones.

Because I'M the douche. Lmao, okay. I disagree with the almighty tech team, so that instantly makes me incorrect and a douche? We're calculating amplifier power here. A very slight flaw in tolerance in the equipment is okay. It's not like we're trying to be exact to seventeen decimal places. This test gives an estimate (a pretty close one, may I add) to the real results. Just because I don't hide myself behind fancy vocabulary doesn't mean that I'm clueless. And as for me, I'm not bothering with posting again. There's no need, because apparently everyone here already knows it all.

What all are you running? 04 Taurus with 2 ZCON 12s on the way.. Undecided on a 5k+ amp.

Wow.. This is my setup almost exactly.. lol

I suppose you guys can measure nanometers with a yardstick too? Probably report the digits all the way into tenths at the same time without declaring any uncertainty. Real logical.Invalid analogy.

Nick is doing it because people like the OP, yourself, and MR. Tenacious just do NOT understand what is going on here. You think you do, and no matter what more intelligent people tell you or point out, you continue to think you grasp what is happening. Therefore, his company's reputation is unjustly soiled due to people who know enough to cause damage and nothing else. Don't get too cocky.

Finally, someone with some sense.

And you're saying the same thing about Taylor.

The manufacturer is very biased toward their own product, so that statement could go both ways.

So, what is he supposed to use to test the amp? Is the extra "0.01v of precision" from better tools supposed to completely change the results?

But, but, but, it didn't do rated. It has to be flawed.... But but but.. the owner said he will retest because all testing prior to marketing is correct and will retest.. However once he said that.. many people started bashing the "potential" for his other products to be flawed, etc.. I only trust the owner and\or companies who do this for a living. If one person can be trusted to "fail" an amp publicly, then all companies might as well shut their businesses down because you know what they say.. The customer is always right... So professional testing must be pointless.. We don't care about getting close We, as a business community, care about doing it right. Why would a business rely on a customer's test as the official ruling of their products potential. That is the dumbest thing i've seen this year so far and that's pretty damn bad. But keep supporting the "close testing". We'll support professional test results. I'm fairly sure you can consider Taylor's tests "professional." Your average consumer doesn't have a bank of fixed resistance and all of the equipment to properly test amplifiers like he does,

But, but, but, it didn't do rated. It has to be flawed....

Take into consideration that this is a fixed resistance test. Voltage and amperage are not out of phase as they are in a standard clamp test. This is about as close to "real world" numbers as it gets.

I never said that. If RCA noise was an issue and it wouldn't be an inconvenience, then sure.

And the amp's gain will still be set higher for the 2v signal.

And the 2v head unit will be putting out roughly half as much voltage as the 4v head unit at any given volume. My argument still stands. I don't quite consider something an "old wives tale" or "snake oil" if it is a fact.

I know what I'm talking about as well, I'm not going to let someone walk all over me simply because of the color of their username. I stated that higher voltage preouts reduce the overall effect of RCA noise. How hard is that to understand?

You're beating a dead horse by telling me that I'm stupid for trying to minimize RCA noise via the head unit. Quite honestly, your negative opinion on the matter isn't needed here. No matter what you say about it, it still works. Also, I said generally, and I said it was not a direct correlation. Quit putting words into my mouth.

I think you have confused yourself.Describe your concern in dB and you'll understand. If you have xdB of music and ydB of noise whether it is at 2v or 4v and you amplify it, what happens? And no, you didn't say swap your headunit but the reasons you are using for a 4v instead of a 2v don't exist which means that by definition your recommendation of a 4v hu for reducing noise is saying to buy one to do that. Glad you realized actually fixing the source of the problem instead of attempting to put a band aid on it is a good idea. I haven't confused myself, but I appear to have confused you. I presented facts showing how higher voltage preouts are superior for minimizing some sources of noise. I'm talking about noise introduced after the preout source, not from the preout source itself. Personally, I don't have to worry about such noise because of my choice in interconnects and routing, but many people do have noise issues. A head unit that costs slightly more will often be more practical than buying multiple sets of high priced RCA interconnects. Yes, the noise will still be there, but it won't be as noticable. Ah, so now you finally just come around and admit it. No need. Curious why you recommended it then?If the OP were to have minimal RCA noise, he may not notice it with higher voltage preouts. It's something that you'd have to look at on an install to install basis. Also, head units with higher voltage preouts are generally higher quality... Although there is not a direct correlation and that's a subject for another thread.

Just to clarify, higher preamp voltages do not "minimize" the source of noise. Higher preamp voltages increase the signal to noise ratio (SNR).....the level of the induced noise is the same, but the level of the signal is higher so the SNR is also higher. Saying the noise is minimized implies that the higher voltage has some inherent ability to "reject" some of the noise, reducing it's level....which it does not. The noise is the same, but the SNR has increased.M5's point was that in the cases where you have an audible amount of induced noise, the problem is the signal cables or routing near sources of noise in the vehicle (which does not include the amp's power cable), and increasing the voltage of the signal is masking the problem rather than fixing it. I know this, and that's what I said. The final noise is less (at the same volume) from the 4v preouts, and yes, that is because of the higher SNR. I never said anything about some sort of fairy dust that accompanies higher voltage preouts and repels noise. I said that because the signal is amplified more, the noise is amplified more... I guess that assuming my point would be made was too generous of me. And either way, masking the problem is still better than ignoring it altogether.

I think you have confused yourself.Describe your concern in dB and you'll understand. If you have xdB of music and ydB of noise whether it is at 2v or 4v and you amplify it, what happens? And no, you didn't say swap your headunit but the reasons you are using for a 4v instead of a 2v don't exist which means that by definition your recommendation of a 4v hu for reducing noise is saying to buy one to do that. Glad you realized actually fixing the source of the problem instead of attempting to put a band aid on it is a good idea. I haven't confused myself, but I appear to have confused you. I presented facts showing how higher voltage preouts are superior for minimizing some sources of noise. I'm talking about noise introduced after the preout source, not from the preout source itself. Personally, I don't have to worry about such noise because of my choice in interconnects and routing, but many people do have noise issues. A head unit that costs slightly more will often be more practical than buying multiple sets of high priced RCA interconnects. Yes, the noise will still be there, but it won't be as noticable.

A local guy here is hitting 157s with a pair of NSv2 18s with Zv3 soft parts.. nice choice in subs lol

That's really a testament to the box, not the sub at all. Just making sure you're aware of that.