SacredTanakh

sounddeadenershowdown.com

Thanks Shizzzon for clearing some things up! Sometimes it just takes some explaining of a new product to understand it better. Hopefully they put up a english website and keep it updated, that will help a ton.

bedliner I think would look very nice on those! so that's my vote

Hell no it's not. Its a different technology than the Koreans most of us are used to. These beasts are FULLY capable of the power they claim. through a single 0 gauge input? really? Even their 50k which I just found on there website has a single input. Anyways I don't want to hate too hard I'm gonna assume that the pictures are being updated. Some of their older amps were much larger, and I believe had more inputs from the pictures Ive seen.

I didn't have much against taramps until I saw the size of the 30k. I'm not sure who would believe you could get so much power out of such a small amp, its impossible. http://img2.mlstatic.com/s_MLB_v_V_f_3372751698_112012.jpg

run a y splitter and put the left on one of the inputs of the 1st set of channels you are bridging then take the right and put it on the 2nd set. Then just set your crossovers where you want. should be that simple, but let us know.

That'd be silly.Just buy SDS. You aren't going to beat that bang for your buck. so is having 8 18s if you think about it, but people do it ;P Terrible analogy however. 8 18's has more effectiveness at creating bass than 8 15's so there is a purpose. Vibraflex not so much. Depending on your goals and how much you put on vibraflex can be more effective. I was meaning its silly because of the excessiveness of it. Like have 10 locks on your front door, sure its better then one but most people consider that a bit silly. Not sure why you negative rep'd but anyways it all depends on your point of view.

That'd be silly.Just buy SDS. You aren't going to beat that bang for your buck. so is having 8 18s if you think about it, but people do it ;P

I know you just want a review basically, but its a little on the expensive side, Id highly recommend going with secondskin, SDS, or murdermat. OR if your looking to spend more for the best of the best, go with vibraflex.

Digging the new dustcap/logo, looks great!

The alternator ended up being the wrong case, didn't line up quite right. Which sucks because of the long wait but hopefully he can find the exact one I need and rebuild it. Customer service has been amazing so far, so I don't doubt ill have the right one soon.

Just make sure he sends you the right case! even really good companies like singer make mistakes. I just got a hairpin large case from him and it looked like the right case till i tried to bolt it on, didn't line up. make sure to get measurements from the stock one to send to him.

New Alternator will be here monday! Cant wait to install it. Also here is a wall I designed and have been building to home the Zcon 18s. C pillar wall in a explorer, 16 cubes tuned to 28hz. Learned a lot from the wall in the chrysler, and still learning but I'm getting better. Hopefully I've done a good job and my buddy will be happy with it. Maple interior, 2x4 exterior. be on the lookout for his build log, I'm going to get him to start one soon.

As far as your alternator charging the front and not the back, there must of been a loss in connection between them. Otherwise they would even out between the both of them.

Sweet video but if you knew what a ignorant tool DJSNT is, you probably wouldn't be supporting his demo music. He gives no credit to songs that weren't originally edited by him, and talks a lot of shit about people who are way better at editing. (Decaf, bigpimpin, etc) He stirs up a lot of drama, and has been banned by several forums for such. Most people probably won't care but I'm gonna throw it out there anyway.

More videos!

Thanks for the reply swift! Ill add another set of power and ground connecting each battery for added support. Drill some holes, add some bolts, and add a separate ground for each battery. Ill let you guys know if it helps at all. any other suggestions welcome

The post jumps around a bit but I try to provide as much information as possible. The main issue I have is it seems as though my voltage drops more then it should. The alternator charges at 13.3 at idle and only kicks up to around 14.1 when I am going 30-35+mph. I do have a Singer 370 which is being shipped on Friday, not sure if its gonna fit yet but we will see haha. My voltage full tilt usually drops down slowly to 12.2 after about 20seconds of play and sits there, never seen it go under 12.1 which is good but I still think it should be higher. Even when on the highway going 70mph the voltage will drop from 14.1 to 12.3. Im running a Zed leviathan which is running around 1600w, and a BC3500 at .5 ohms. I currently I have 4 diehard pm1s and then a Diehard gold advanced in the stock location. The Stock alternator is a 160 amp Denso alternator. The car is a uni body so it has little ground studs for everything all over the place. Stock battery location is in the trunk and has a grounding stud right beside it inside the spare tire well. The batteries are all wired together with 0 gauge OFC. There is 3 pm1s very close together by the amps, then a run from them down to the spare tire well where the other two batteries are. The 3 up top are grounded to the stock location battery which is grounded to the stock location stud, then the other pm1 in the spare tire well is grounded directly to the stud. The amps, head unit and voltage meter are powered and grounded to the batteries themselves. I do charge the batteries with a Diehard platinum charger whenever I can and it does seems to very slightly help for a minute or two but it goes back quite quickly. My question is does it seem like the ground is the issue? Maybe alternator ground even? Ive heard for uni-bodies welding a bar to the body and running all your grounds off that will help. But is it worth the effort? When I get the new alternator I will have two runs of ground and two runs of power to the battery bank and it will be using a bypass so it should always charge at around 14.8. I need to get my voltage as stable as possible because soon I plan on putting another 3500 in and running both at 1ohm. Any ideas and suggestion are appreciated! I can post pictures if anything is unclear. Thanks

Depends on how charged the batteries are, usually around 12.8. 2013 Chrysler 300 and its PCM controlled

have Doug do it, or if you can weld, I have a welder. I would do it but I don't want to be responsible if it looks terrible

8ohms is the way to go, and that should be plenty. On most active setups you don't need a ton of power. I noticed with my neo pro 10s crossed over at 80hz and 4khz I got only a small boost in output and clarity when switching from 180w each to 600w each. They take it like a champ suprisingly enough too

I understand a few days for slam because its a very large event for companies such as sundown, but as long as you have waited... Especially being a dealer you should be treated a bit better. I had a small issue with my 10in neo pros that I never could get that resolved because of the ridiculous amount I would have had to pay for shipping to them and back. Even though it was not at all my fault. Sometimes companies need to cut a little profit to make things right. That being said I love sundowns products, and will still recommend them..

Anchorage???!? Not much bass up here unfortunately.

Fully agree. electrical is the backbone of your build, without it, it will fail. Go for the biggest alternator you can afford/can get for your car, and then slowly shove as many g31s in your car as you can until your voltage is where you want.

so 5volt from the 80prs is going to be too much... Hmm, I never would have guessed that. I'll keep that in mind.