kryptonitewhite

Thats not 25Hz thats 27Hz, and thats not a TermLab! :-P :-P

I'll give him my excessive amperage alternator if he can beat my old score of 148 @ 25Hz at 25hz on a TermLab

do you have a build log? what was your tuning again? subs used, power? are you walled or subs up port back? all the goodies pics and vids? Wicked awesome score, man, very nice!

I hear about those subs quite a bit, I am a HT subwoofer guy... those fit my bill I started this thread when i wasn't getting the high end I expected, but I found out that was because 1 amp was blown... replaced the amp, my highs are back as well as insane massive lows too Now the port actually works, blowing air like mad and trying to rip my doors off

I said at 25Hz

lets start it off right, yup, back to more caulk on MY car and I like it. The door jam mod hastened a known issue for the door handles busting, had to go heavy duty, had to do a mod for the pull down rod, when it's painted (unfortunately not 99c Walmart spray paint anymore, my buddy Jeff is all about asthetics and WON'T LET ME do it anymore, he mixed up some paint match at his job using my VIN# and he painted over the spray painted rust spots too) but anyway...the point... Last year I did a big write up on PL400 vs PL375 vs PL PRO...spend the $$! I used PL400 for 10+ years and loved it, couldnt find it locally anymore, got 375 (not made for subfloor or heavy duty anyway?) And it SUCKED. It took 2 weeks to 1/2 way cure, then it failed anyway. Today I used PRO outside on the car, sudden thunderstorm flash...had errands to run, in the rain, all day..even 80 on the interstate...can't even tell! Then there's the alt situation: emails and threads had a lot of "only supposed to charge at 13V anyway" today she was bouncing from 14.2-14.5V yeah! Lucky me. AND LOOK! 3/4 TANK! Shut her off, still solid.

I dont like most of my vids once I watch them for myself, but I really like this one. Ain't no sunshine And Google is fun sometimes with their daily things they have when they spell "Google" for a special day or anniversary. Guitar.

I got lucky this time, after a couple days everything is back to normal. No more pissing about... gonna install the 2nd alt before I do the new recones for the 1803s

can a HO alt still work but get damaged and charge at a lower voltage, around 13.8V when it used to charge around 14.8V?

moved the amp rack so the door opens most of the way, cleared out most of the storage to make it a spare room. Gave up on the EQ for now, IDK what to use for a Q as more experimenting leads to more headache. Never made it to the competition as I had a situation with the 3 batteries and HO alternator. Pretty much done foruming for a while, just popping in for a few updated pics and a vid. new mic location completely changed REW sweeps, basically flat all the way down and no majot dips like the 43Hz, 54Hz, 73Hz, and 6.5Hz dips from before. The EQ was defeated during the flat sweeps.

sorry guys I wanted to go so bad, my van was completely dead when i went to start it up one morning, then my voltage was down 2V for 2 days afterward... as it is, I dont have my 2nd alt installed and the IB3s were only meant to be at 110 cubic feet and a 15Hz tuning, its too hard on them in 45 cubic feet and fighting port loading much more at 24Hz tuning. The van is just not ready and I didnt want to ruin the wicked home theater I just completed with 1000 cubic feet 5Hz tuning for the 4 IB3's. I need to recone the 1803s with a multi-spider pack before I go to any shows. Also my door handles busted off because the doors are so heavy and the door jam trick I did to try to keep the doors from flexing so much when go down the road... I didnt have door handles. I made something up, but its not working as smooth as I hoped. I hope to get things going but I dont even hear back from Scott at Fi anymore

Anyone going? I am talking to Adam about getting registered now. I won't have my subs reconed by then or my alternator in, but that's OK...it's a 150dB limit anyway and I am way above that from 30hz on up anyway. http://www.huronsd.com/specialevents/wheel_jam.htm http://www.wheeljam.com/ KW

very informative, thank you!

SN looks familiar... face in avatar looks familiar... wudup man!

it has seemed to charge lower for quite a while, so its like it just keeps on working but not as good as it did. If a diode or a coil could bust, but other coils/diodes or something still remain, so it still works but not as good, that would suck. But if a broken part means it will completely die, good, id rather repair it and get full output again.

it has seemed to charge lower for quite a while, so its like it just keeps on working but not as good as it did. If a diode or a coil could bust, but other coils/diodes or something still remain, so it still works but not as good, that would suck. But if a broken part means it will completely die, good, id rather repair it and get full output again.

yet somehow I overcome them and then some

I had an old Thunderbird I bought as a kid, every morning after I bought it I went to start it up for work but it was dead. I was a kid, no money to fix it, no skills on figuring out what was wrong or how to fix it. I got a new bettery thinkin it was OK. Next day i was late for work. Checked alternator, solenoid. Copuld not figure the thing out. One day I had to disconnect the power seat for something, problem went away. For a few weeks now when I have gone to start the van, it seemed like it was low on juice. I have 3 AGM bateries, 2 of them huge 100aH. It's been on my mind, but was always hard to tell for sure if there was an issue. Today i went to bring Brandy to work and it wouldnt start. Was all bt dead, would almost turn over, then click clikc click. I kept trying and trying, got it to start. Of course charging 3 giant batteries... most likely killed the $400 HO alt, it's running right now and volatage is below 14V

thank you sir! I played some more with the feeback destroyer today, I am trying to use it as an LP filter mostly to lower 15Hz on up so that i have a peak from 5Hz-10Hz then roll off a little to 15Hz, a little more to 20Hz, then more to 35Hz, I want 40Hz-50Hz to be a little dip... then slowly creep back up to 63Hz, more to 80Hz, then more to 100Hz to compensate for the 80Hz crossover.... but that keeps getting too messy with all this control the thing has I have it defeated again for now

sigh.. not the best news to hear right now, but if its gotta be done its gotta be done sitting at 12.1 now after letting it sit for a bit.

just happened over nite busted out the DMM, rear batts were at 11.8V and front was at 11.9V usually theyre close to 13V. Started it up, started at 13.11V and slowly kept climbing, now it's sitting at 13.6V running. It used to be close t0 15V running.

Braced the celing and gained 7dB at 6.5Hz! WTF WOW! lol If you guys ever ready that "Youre kryptonitewhite if...." thread.... I'm going to throw wheels on this sucker and drive it to you guys :-P check that AVS thread for the before/after ceiling bracing snapshots. The ceiling STILL bounces but *only* 1.5" now, expecting more gains after I can run 1 more 2x4 across and 2 more 2X4s up to it :-P

I am Jordan Powell, I have a dark red/maroon Chevy Astro van. I won't be the loudest subs there, but I will be the lowest and with the clearest loud front stage :-P wait wait wait, just look for the dork with speakers in his ceiling

dude, I remember when 10Hz-15Hz flopping the ceiling was neat... watching the entire thing just wobble is NUTS! WOTWs was pretty damn sweet before, now it's JAM PACKED! I was supposed to be sacrificing a TON of SPL by tuning this low, more than 10dB and then some, but WOTWs has twice as much content as before, lots of the stuff that was there before is even louder now. So fun!