kryptonitewhite

yes, I do. I went to get metered myself out of curiosity, and of course I was hoping for big numbers... but I also didn't go above 29Hz because I knew if i would have I'd have easily been mid 50's but that wasn't my goals. To each their own, it just upsets me that I get picked on for doing what I want... not caring about looks, saving $$$, and tuning lower over bigger numbers. I am all for others spending more $$$ on their subs, tuning higher for more output, and spending more $$ and putting more time, energy, and work into cosmetics... but don't ride me for doing mine the way I want mine

thats Y I am the way that I am... people put numbers and cosmetics over sound.... when the damn thing IS about sound

I am in that same boat, I lose a TON of SPL being tuned so damn low, but it sounds a zillion times better.

my daughter loves the lights!

This thing is so powerful it's hard to get started, especially since I want out of the ordinary responce, not flat. Since it has 1/120th control I don't know where to start with Q... 60/120? Thats the default IIRC. I basically need to lower everything boosting nothing as I need to create a LP effect. I want 5Hz-10Hz to be 6dB above 11Hz-18Hz. I want 11Hz-18Hz to be 6dB above 19Hz-30Hz. I want 19Hz-30Hz to be 6dB above 31Hz-250Hz. This is all guesstimation, obviousely not a 6dB drop between 1Hz increments... just to give an idea of what I am after. I may simply center at 45Hz and EQ down 24dB and vary my Q until I am happy, unless I get some good feedback. Thank you for trudging through this post, trying to understand it, and if you even reply with help... thank you very very much. KW

Sweeps like this would be nice: but burps in 1Hz increments like this can still help: 132.5dB @ 15Hz 136.7dB @ 17Hz 140.3dB @ 18Hz 142.5dB @ 19Hz 143.8dB @ 20Hz 144.9dB @ 21Hz 145.7dB @ 22Hz At 1:02 it sounds like the subs are bottoming, that is the doors flexing over 3" at 22Hz at 145.7dB despite the door jam pockets. You can hear him say " the door doesn't like that". I was tuned to 25Hz but when I started at 15Hz with 132.5dB, you can see the 2nd and 3rd harmonics were well below the fundamental 15Hz. 147.7dB @ 23Hz 147.9dB @ 24Hz 148.2dB @ 25Hz and 26Hz at the floor 148.2dB on music at 25Hz... I set the LP at 31.5Hz with a 30dB/oct slope so that I only hit the low note. If I would have had it at 80Hz where it was supposed to be I'd be in the mid to upper 50's but I only wanted to know what I got from 29Hz down. fast forward to 2:50 put on 148.2dB 147.7dB @ 23Hz hair trick unintentional. The guy is incorrect about the SPL reading being false due to the bottoming out noise... the Term Lab is a pressur sensor and does not register anything other than bass. NASA used one to measure the space shuttle launches.

I know it's burried in the 16 pages, but what is original vs plug? cubes and tuning. Have u taken sweeps of the inside showing FR?

so you put a port plug in, lowering the tuning, decreasing port area, which made you peak out at a higher frequency with a lower number? Not surprising, as the lower tuning should lower your peak at tuning, harmonics and 1/4 wavelengths will shift as well.. port resonance... which can also more closely match up with cabin/vehicle resonance.... so over all, tuning lower you have a smaller SPL, and now your port resonance and vehicle harmonics become larger than your tuning but are still not as loud as around tuning when you were tuned higher. is this after removing the plug and back to the enclosure you had before the plug?

dropped the Extremis off the Alpine to 50Hz... man I want to compete!

cheers! I tried dropping them to 3kHz for the hell of it, uh-uh nope. messed with the Extremis again too, everywhere from 125Hz on Alpine 125Hz Kicker, to 50Hz Alpine 50Hz Kicker.... I can never leave well enough alone!

sure does feel pretty damn good finally ordered the 2nd alternator mounting brackets...get that thing installed and running smooth, some recones with a few extra spiders, and hopefully this thing is done!

of course it has to take the snapshot for the vid right there.... damn it man!

according to this test http://www.forceaudio.com/index.php?topic=15.0 there is no way a 4000 watt amp, even if the power supply allowd it to put out 8,000 watts being fully clipped, should blow a 10,000 watt sub if the sub truely is thermally rated to handle 10,000 watts

$95 plus tax for a 12' long piece of cardboard 20" in diameter... they wouldn't sell a 4' chunk...bastards! You should have seen me driving home with this cannon sticking out the rear hatch :-P I considered mounting an 18" at the end of it and calling it a day.

I just purchased (4) custom FiCarAudio 18's from Jim, aka ZORA. Thank you very much Jim, I am very excited to see how these perform in the van! So here's what's in the van: Alpine IVA-W505 DVD player. I purchased it with the intent of running an optical out cable for audio and Ai-NET cable to touch-screen interface with the crossover, Alpine PXA-H701. All slopes are set to 30dB/oct going against the advice of CUBDENNO, who said "keep it even at 24dB!" sorry but I just can't make myself do it! (4) Vifa XT25TG30 1" ring radiators doing a steep 66dB/oct slope 14kHz on up (yeah, I know, but thats how it is) off a Kicker SX500.2 parallel 2ohms with its 36dB/oct slope adding in the mix. Since 14k on up is such a small weak bandwidth, I had to add a PG line driver I got from my buddy in the windy city/ (2) CSS FR125S 4.5" full range XBL^2 drivers doing 710Hz-14k off a KX650.4 bridged 8 ohms (4) Adire Audio Extremis 6.4's off (2) KX850.4's each bridged on a pair covering 80Hz-710Hz (4) custom Fi 18's from Jim, who gave me one hell of a deal.. great guy to work with! Covering 200Hz on down. Too high? too bad! Overlaping the Extremis? yup! When I dropped the old subs down to 80Hz, I really missed the 80Hz-200Hz content from the subs. When I brought the Extremis up to 200Hz from 80Hz, I hated it! They sound different coming from the different drivers (they being 80Hz-200Hz) and I miss them when i remove either! Enclosure is 45 cubic feet, 20" diameter port 20" long for a 24Hz tune! Subs are HPed at 6dB/oct at 20Hz for protection. 120-150 cans of Great Stuff expanding foam..so glad I didn't do all 2x4's! Toggle switches to disable the different bands: I can kill the tweets, 4.5's, 7"ers, and subs all separately, run any combination... just subs and tweets, just mids, whatever at the flip of a switch! The subs: Fs = 23.7 Hz Re = 1.8 Ohms Qms = 7.22 Qes = 0.38 Qts = 0.35 Cms = 130.0 uM/N Mms = 300.0 grams Sd = 1217.0 cmsq Vas = 279.4 liters SPL = 92.1 dB X-max = 40mm Power = 1,500+ watts The top plate is 7/8", triple magnet, 2 ohm flatwound coils, single spider (8" I think), paper/kevlar cone, santoprene surround. The 40mm might actually be X-mech one-way. A throw of 28-30mm one-way with the coil in the gap? I LOVED the IB3s. Weak motored subs have troubles being loaded with ports... rather than peaking at tuning, my FR responce wasn't where I wanted it. I had to PEQ heavily to bring the 20Hz-30Hz region up to fight the port. Don't get it wrong, the IB3s had enough motor to bottom out even at tuning easily, its the FR curve. So i got bigger motored subs like everyone said I should have all along to get more 20Hz-30Hz rather than peaking at 30Hz-50Hz like I was. I LOVED the IB3s and plan on keeping them in my towers!

Any updates? Did you do some clip testing a few years back, had a bunch of cheap little 5"ers or something like that and blew them all giving some clean signals, some clipped signals before the amp, and some from the amp clipping?

I'm putting this in the "you know your kryptonitewhite when.." thread in my sig

I know these pics dont/wont show up here, I have to tweak them at home theater spot, but they work everywhere else so i will post a link to my AVS thread if u want to see the pics http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1337645 After doing REW sweeps of before the port and after, I realized I was tuned much lower than I thought. Thinking 990 cubic feet realizing 1003 cubic feet (closet door closed, opened it's more like 1040 cubic feet and 4Hz tuning) and from 9Hz to 5Hz, I can't have a title that I can't correct. I have never heard of anyone tuning to 5Hz before, or venting a 1000 plus cubic foot room. So I will leave the build log, post some final pics and REW snapshots in here, and of course now I will do some 5Hz and 6Hz sine waves and distortion plots.... as WinISD shows a VERY narrow SPL increase at tuning, so my 7Hz and 8Hz were out of the port passband giant peak. Thank you Thomas for pointing it out! Unless the laws of physics have changed the tuning is between 9Hz-10Hz. And even that's doubtful because a Radio Shack SPL meter is not accurate test device. Actually, Thomas, if the laws of physics have NOT changed, I am tuned to 5.26Hz. And upon further inspection of the before/after ported plots, it looks like that is correct, more like 5-6Hz, kind sir. room is 9'5" x 12'5" x 8'7" for 1003 cubic feet port is 21.5 x 8.5 22"long PICS REMOVED Thanks PICS REMOVED The reason I started with an 8Hz-9Hz guestimate and made it clear we would see, was I initially plotted with the manifold stopping at the subs and simply cutting the door panels out for ports which would have been 2 x 18.25"x8.25" ports 1.5" thick door, .75" MDF, about 2.25" port length. I decided to run the manifold sides all the way down for more strength to support all that weight and to keep the rear wave from simply canceling out the front wave with no port blockage. That left me with the option of putting 2 divider ports for the two insode port walls, making for 2 x 8.25"x18.25" ports 22" long for about a 7Hz-8Hz tune. I decided on the final option, 1 giant port, 5Hz tune. THATS MORE LIKE IT! I did a 5.5Hz tone and the whole house wobbles, ceiling wobbles, fan, the paper in the port actually moves. 7Hz is way too high with this narrow of a peak. 95dB at 8%THD and 104dB @ 31% THD PICS REMOVED im tuned to 5Hz thats all 5Hz makes the HOUSE wobble! Now the port blows air!

But it says "competition" right on the box!

unless he got some IB3s lol i joke i joke, i kid i kid

and here I was running 550 watt subs that cost $199 with 3kW and never cooked a coil or burnt a lead

With all the boosting I had to have SW set to -12dB, music is much louder than flix so i had to have it turned down for music, especially Bassotronics goodies. So I reset and tried cutting instead. Now I have +16dB at 32Hz, -32dB @ 40Hz, +6dB at 80Hz, and -6dB at 125Hz... this sweep I got to do at -20dB MV and had plenty of room left, sub at 0dB.

As if cars and car audio isn't enough, then a home and home audio too? Tell me about it! But it doubles your knowledge and changes your perspectiv and maybe even goals in car audio after while.

I came very close to building a center consol for mine, I did in my last build and it was pretty sweet...but I had to go a little more anti-theft so I... did something else

Depends on which version it is, I'm not sure if the older one came with a quad coil or not. The last versions have a DD/AQ stylish basket, 4inch coil, not sure of actually motor specs other than that. I just know they sure aren't anything special, no offense to anybody that owns one. I looked at the new X3's, and those look super cheap. Looks like a Vibe or Lanzar sub(can't exactly remember), with the ribbed surround and logo on dustcap. A few companies sub's can pull off ribbed surround(most seem to be rubber), but these seem to have foam. Turned me off, even thought I was never turned on. I hope they serve more of a purpose than looks, because they really kill any hope it might of had. yup, I googled it and there's 2 versions! As if it wasn't retarded enough back in the day when the 15" was completely different from the 18"...freakin headache... now there's old version 15, old version 18, new 15, and new 18... I think everyone on this thread has the right idea... fuck ss, who cares :-P