Miles
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Everything posted by Miles
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Yes, patience does play a key role in advanced woodworking, especially when you don't have CNC machines to do it for you. I'll be spraying it with dupli-color bedliner (best feeling/looking bedliner for a good price), and I'll be painting the port red, painting the SSA logo red and leaving the rest of the inside of the box bare so when the customer adds LED's it'll shine nicely.
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If you think my sub boxes are impressive, you should see the furniture I've built.
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Me either. Hopefully the 3 Evils come in in the next week or so (he bought 2 new, and had one sent in for a recone). Also, we've been talking about changing amps...(2) CT Sounds 7k, (2) Ampere 7.5k, or just find a used SD16k.
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Got the box 100% assembled, and remembered that I broke my last 1/8" drill bit on the last box I built, so mounting holes will be cut tomorrow, along with sanding, rounding over, and bedlining the whole box. Can't wait to hear this thing!
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It's about 1" thick right there (just looks like less because I stopped the roundover at that point). But, I will be resining the entire brace once the box is put together. I plan on leaving the inside of the box bare, but painting the "SSA" logo red when the box is all done.
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I think you'll like this box brace Mark...
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He has a Mechman 275 and Singer 350 ran with a VCM, and 4 XS Power XP3000's. Picture of the main brace uploading...
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No screws in the construction of this box. Just a few brad nails, glue, and lots of pressure on the joints. I'm VERY happy with the results this box gave me. I ended up building a bass reflex for the 8, and it just didn't stack up to this T-line. No filler necessary.
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I recently aquired a brand new Sundown SA8v2. I talked with Thumper about a variation of an enclosure he built years ago for this sub, but after a lot of thinking, I wanted to do something original. Even though I have way more power than the 8 was designed to handle, I wanted to build a T-Line box. I built one years ago, and it sounded amazing. However, I didn't want to build just another boring rectangle t-line box that just looks like a ported box from the outside... So... I present to you my variation of a t-line box I threw together this evening. It took a couple of days to design it, and I thought it was going to be a nightmare to build, but it actually went together in under an hour. All I have is the one picture, but the glue on the top and bottom are drying as I type this, so, if all goes well, I'll be finishing the box tomorrow morning, and have it playing by tomorrow afternoon... Tell me what y'all think...
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Finally got around to shooting a video. For have ZERO cabin to load off of, it sounds amazing, and has great low end extension. Can't wait to put this in an all metal vehicle.
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Ive always heard about the "woofer cookbook"... might pick up a copy. I'll probably just throw this box in, test, add some polyfil, test, and so on. But, this is going in a softtop jeep... Not like im striving for SQ here... almost all T-Lines i see have no form of filler. So does that mean everyone is doing it wrong?
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Was planning on building a 4th order next anyway. Haha.
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Have a link to the white paper?
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I'll have to put a pound of stuffing in the box before i.put the sub in.
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Stuff with? Im putting just one SA8v2 in it. No polyfil. No need. I have the correct line length.
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Really wasn't as bad as it looks. Only took about an hour to assemble. About halfway through I shot a nail into my finger. Luckily, it bounced off the bone and came right out...
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It's not as big as it looks. It's only 26" in diameter. About 3/4 of a sheet of worth of wood. And It's "tuned" to the Fs of the sub, which is 34.7 hz. The line is 8.05 feet long.
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Got the call from someone local to build a box for his setup. He has 2 SSA Evil 18's on 2 NS-1's at 0.5 ohms a piece, with 4 XS D3100's and a Mechman 270. His current box was initially built for 4 18's (something like 18 cubes net) and stuck WAY above the window line. He wanted a box for just the 2 that he has, a lot smaller box, and something with a little "flair". Well, here it is... Specs: 13.2 cubes net 12" Octaport 32.3 hz Double layered all around (except sides) Window style bracing Bolt terminals Bedlined outside with a fire-engine red port Be sure to watch the video at the end!
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SSA Icon 10" Test Enclosure (breaks 140db @ 24hz!!)
Miles replied to Thumpper's topic in Pound That Sound
Im think 0.75 net with 18.5 sq in of port tuned to 33-34hz, and the opening coming out at a 45 degree angle from the mouth of the port. -
SSA Icon 10" Test Enclosure (breaks 140db @ 24hz!!)
Miles replied to Thumpper's topic in Pound That Sound
Oh i will! Its going in a softtop jeep wrangler, which i think will be a good platform for this design since theres nothing for a port to load off of. Also powering with about 1000-1200a watts. Already did a 141.2 sealed up with a funkin audio 10 on 5-600 watts. I want to try and do a 143-144 with this 8. -
SSA Icon 10" Test Enclosure (breaks 140db @ 24hz!!)
Miles replied to Thumpper's topic in Pound That Sound
Would you mind if I experimented with this design for an SA8v2? -
Little video of what happened to the sub, taken by the customer Bobby. One set of negative tensil leads burned clean off the triple joint. Rest of the softparts are great. Those subs can really handle some power. When we had our get together, we noticed an odd smell, and thought it was the coils getting a little warm, but it didn't quite smell like coil... Well, I guess we know now what it was. He's sending the sub off to get reconed, and will hopefully have it back soon.
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SSA Icon 10" Test Enclosure (breaks 140db @ 24hz!!)
Miles replied to Thumpper's topic in Pound That Sound
So... I remember way back when this thread was first created, and just couldn't believe the results that you were getting with this box. You say this does better in a single sub configuration? I am in the process of aquiring an 8, and have been toying with the idea of doing something like this, since my softtop jeep is a little different to build for than most other vehicles. The idea of it NEEDING an open space at the mouth has me thinking this would be a good box design to play around with. Any tips or tricks to making this design work would be appreciated. You don't have to walk me through the whole process, because I've back-calculated the math on your first box, and have the general idea of why the design works so well. -
Thanks! And no problem Mark. Bobby is a really good guy, and wouldn't think twice about helping him out. Will probably help him install his dual alt kit when he gets it in. Amazing to see all this nice equipment, and its just about the sound and not the numbers. Even though he was pretty excited when he saw that 153.8 pop up on the screen. Haha.
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Customer called last night and is sending one of the subs in for a recone because of a known problem. Should he up and running again, WITH a second alternator in a couple of weeks. I know he doesnt care about numbers, but im ready to see that 155!