germanyt

The loading wall seems awful thin. And port area huge. Almost seams like it would just act like a sealed enclosure. edit. nvm forgot this is a 6th order. The whole time I'm looking at the 4th hole like it's for a sub.

The Evil isn't really ideal for 4th order bandpass. While I'm sure it's not a definitive measurement the qts on the Evil isn't in the range which benefits most from a 4th. I'd stick with the 10 cubes you have and go ported. if you double up the top and bottom that gives 25 inches of internal height. So 25 inches tall and 4 inches wide would work. Even 5 inches wide would be good although with that much power and that size box I'd keep the sq in per cube on the lower side. Tuning will be up to you but it's gonna be stupid loud no matter what so I'd go low end. 28/30 or so.

Fair enough. I just don't want to overlook a brand because I've never personally hear them and don't want to buy an inferior product just because certain people rep them. Not that any one of these subs are inferior, I'm sure all 3 or great. it really comes down to who I want to do business with so your last point is a good one.

I've narrowed my choices down to a few options and since this is a slow process I've had the luxury of changing my mind a dozen times. In the back of my Focus hatcback I'm planning a single 15 on what will most likely be a 3500-4000 watt Crescendo, Autotek (old school), Ampere, etc and it'll be in what is most likely a 3.7ish net tuned to mid/high 30s. Mostly rock and some rap for daily listening and decaf for demo. So there are a few subs that seem to fit my application but it's a tough call. Maybe all would be great but who knows. I know the SSA Evil will come highly recommended but the DC Lvl5 and AA Team are right there in terms of capability. Is the SSA being built in the US a deciding factor. How would you choose? Ignore my sig btw. I bought all that stuff years ago and never installed it because I sold that vehicle, then sold it all. Site won't let me change it atm.

2 12s if you have the power. It has more cone area than the single 15 and all things being equal the 2 lvl 2s carry more motor force than a single lvl3.

Sick build man. Question. I see the 2x4s that were used as a back stop for the rear wall and I see that the rear wall was screwed into those 2x4s but how did you ensure that it was sealed there?

Is it odd that My Profile and My Settings takes me to the same screen?

I have a grey edit my profile button and when I click it I go to a screen that offers for me to change my email or password. On the left there are tabs for notifications and facebook, but nothing for signature, user title, or update date of birth and location.

Haven't been on the forum much for years and my sig needs to be changed. I can't find the user options to do it.

Should be ridiculous. Tuned in.

When is Fi going to update their website. The BTL page is still blank and it has said "new ones on May 1st" for a couple weeks now. Seems like this should have been a quick flip of the switch to change. I am anxious to see the T/S parameters for the new BTL. Steve, any word on the difference between the old and new?

If i go two inches taller I'm at 11.6 net 154 sq in port ( 7 x 22 and 8.25 long ) for 35Hz

BTW, see my sig for the setup I'm working on. It says 18s but who knows now. May end up being 15s.

So I decided to actually measure my cargo area in my Trail Blazer last night. Guess I'd just been lazy and not got around to doing it previously. I was making my enclosure and driver decisions based off what I had seen in other Blazers and similar sized vehicles. I planned on doing two 18s and now I'm not sure I can. I want to keep the box at a reasonable height so I can still see out my rear windshield. My max outer dimensions are 44.5" wide, 27" deep, and 23" tall. I could go a little taller but I'm already sitting higher that the rear seat with 23". I have a notch measured for the bottom front corner edge of the box for the batteries. It looks a lot like Meade's box but his batts are to the rear and mine are forward of the box. Subs would be up and port back. With a double thick baffle and considering the loss of air space from the notch which is 7.5" tall (batt height) and 3" wide (distance from edge of batt to terminal post) that leaves me with 11.83 cubes before sub and port displacement. That is 11.25 after sub displacement. Just spent the past 10 min doing some math. Looks like after port displacement (140 sq in x 11 in long for 35 Hz) it comes to 10.19 cubes. After a couple 2x4s for bracing it is 10.07. So what now? Will it work? Would I be better off with 2 15s in a reasonable 8 cubes or will the 18s wang in 10 cubes with about 5 inches clearance from the port to the hatch? I could possible add another inch to the top height and gain another .5 to 1 cube.

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=11261 here is the OP from this link. I posted it in the Fi section but there is more traffic here so I reposted. I'm a couple days away from buying two SS XXX 15s. I intend to run two Autotek MM4000.1Ds to them in about 8 cubes at 30 Hz. This is in the back of an 04 TrailBlazer subs up port back. While I am certain this will get loud I am finding myself leaning towards the fully loaded BTL 15s. The Autoteks would be too much power for the BTLs but let's say you had the option. The SS XXX setup with the Autoteks which, at 3 ohms, would give each sub around 3000 watts, or two Fi BTL 15s in the same box in the same vehicle as the SS with about 2500 watts to each? I am getting a good deal on the SS so even they are still going to cost more I am not unwilling to pay for it. Which would you choose and why? And I already know that I am comparing two completely different types of subs. I just want some last minute opinions before I commit. Thanks.