germanyt
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Posts posted by germanyt
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The Evil isn't really ideal for 4th order bandpass. While I'm sure it's not a definitive measurement the qts on the Evil isn't in the range which benefits most from a 4th. I'd stick with the 10 cubes you have and go ported. if you double up the top and bottom that gives 25 inches of internal height. So 25 inches tall and 4 inches wide would work. Even 5 inches wide would be good although with that much power and that size box I'd keep the sq in per cube on the lower side. Tuning will be up to you but it's gonna be stupid loud no matter what so I'd go low end. 28/30 or so.
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How would you choose if they all had exactly the same capability?
It isn't exactly the case, but it may put some perspective on your choice. Personally when splitting hairs I would have a tendency to choose whatever I would know I would have the most exposure to the owners with.
Fair enough. I just don't want to overlook a brand because I've never personally hear them and don't want to buy an inferior product just because certain people rep them. Not that any one of these subs are inferior, I'm sure all 3 or great. it really comes down to who I want to do business with so your last point is a good one.
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I've narrowed my choices down to a few options and since this is a slow process I've had the luxury of changing my mind a dozen times. In the back of my Focus hatcback I'm planning a single 15 on what will most likely be a 3500-4000 watt Crescendo, Autotek (old school), Ampere, etc and it'll be in what is most likely a 3.7ish net tuned to mid/high 30s. Mostly rock and some rap for daily listening and decaf for demo. So there are a few subs that seem to fit my application but it's a tough call. Maybe all would be great but who knows. I know the SSA Evil will come highly recommended but the DC Lvl5 and AA Team are right there in terms of capability. Is the SSA being built in the US a deciding factor. How would you choose?
Ignore my sig btw. I bought all that stuff years ago and never installed it because I sold that vehicle, then sold it all. Site won't let me change it atm.
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2 12s if you have the power. It has more cone area than the single 15 and all things being equal the 2 lvl 2s carry more motor force than a single lvl3.
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Sick build man. Question. I see the 2x4s that were used as a back stop for the rear wall and I see that the rear wall was screwed into those 2x4s but how did you ensure that it was sealed there?
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Is it odd that My Profile and My Settings takes me to the same screen?
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I have a grey edit my profile button and when I click it I go to a screen that offers for me to change my email or password. On the left there are tabs for notifications and facebook, but nothing for signature, user title, or update date of birth and location.
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Haven't been on the forum much for years and my sig needs to be changed. I can't find the user options to do it.
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Should be ridiculous. Tuned in.
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When is Fi going to update their website. The BTL page is still blank and it has said "new ones on May 1st" for a couple weeks now. Seems like this should have been a quick flip of the switch to change. I am anxious to see the T/S parameters for the new BTL. Steve, any word on the difference between the old and new?
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If i go two inches taller I'm at 11.6 net
154 sq in port ( 7 x 22 and 8.25 long ) for 35Hz
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BTW, see my sig for the setup I'm working on. It says 18s but who knows now. May end up being 15s.
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So I decided to actually measure my cargo area in my Trail Blazer last night. Guess I'd just been lazy and not got around to doing it previously. I was making my enclosure and driver decisions based off what I had seen in other Blazers and similar sized vehicles. I planned on doing two 18s and now I'm not sure I can. I want to keep the box at a reasonable height so I can still see out my rear windshield. My max outer dimensions are 44.5" wide, 27" deep, and 23" tall. I could go a little taller but I'm already sitting higher that the rear seat with 23". I have a notch measured for the bottom front corner edge of the box for the batteries. It looks a lot like Meade's box but his batts are to the rear and mine are forward of the box. Subs would be up and port back. With a double thick baffle and considering the loss of air space from the notch which is 7.5" tall (batt height) and 3" wide (distance from edge of batt to terminal post) that leaves me with 11.83 cubes before sub and port displacement. That is 11.25 after sub displacement.
Just spent the past 10 min doing some math. Looks like after port displacement (140 sq in x 11 in long for 35 Hz) it comes to 10.19 cubes. After a couple 2x4s for bracing it is 10.07. So what now? Will it work? Would I be better off with 2 15s in a reasonable 8 cubes or will the 18s wang in 10 cubes with about 5 inches clearance from the port to the hatch? I could possible add another inch to the top height and gain another .5 to 1 cube.
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http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=11261
here is the OP from this link. I posted it in the Fi section but there is more traffic here so I reposted.
I'm a couple days away from buying two SS XXX 15s. I intend to run two Autotek MM4000.1Ds to them in about 8 cubes at 30 Hz. This is in the back of an 04 TrailBlazer subs up port back. While I am certain this will get loud I am finding myself leaning towards the fully loaded BTL 15s. The Autoteks would be too much power for the BTLs but let's say you had the option. The SS XXX setup with the Autoteks which, at 3 ohms, would give each sub around 3000 watts, or two Fi BTL 15s in the same box in the same vehicle as the SS with about 2500 watts to each? I am getting a good deal on the SS so even they are still going to cost more I am not unwilling to pay for it. Which would you choose and why? And I already know that I am comparing two completely different types of subs. I just want some last minute opinions before I commit. Thanks.
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I really can't comment because my view is somewhat biased...Others should chime in though...
Thanks!
-Nick
honestly at this point ill take a biased opinion as long as its an intelligent one. its difficult to find someone that has experience with both but if there are any things i should know about the btl that i don't then please feel free to answer. i pretty much expected a biased opinion here just because it is the fi forum.
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I'm a couple days away from buying two SS XXX 15s. I intend to run two Autotek MM4000.1Ds to them in about 8 cubes at 30 Hz. This is in the back of an 04 TrailBlazer subs up port back. While I am certain this will get loud I am finding myself leaning towards the fully loaded BTL 15s. The Autoteks would be too much power for the BTLs but let's say you had the option. The SS XXX setup with the Autoteks which, at 3 ohms, would give each sub around 3000 watts, or two Fi BTL 15s in the same box in the same vehicle as the SS with about 2500 watts to each? I am getting a good deal on the SS so even they are still going to cost more I am not unwilling to pay for it. Which would you choose and why? And I already know that I am comparing two completely different types of subs. I just want some last minute opinions before I commit. Thanks.
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Nah, teh SSD works in sealed boxes, and teh SX doesnt.The softparts are very similar. But that doesnt just make teh moofa.
I beg to differ. I had 2 SX 15s in 4 cubes sealed in the trunk of my Grand Prix and it was rediculous. Since then i brag about the SQ capablity of the SX.
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Pretty ambitious person to remove a sound deadener to install another type of the same thing...Well I didn't really remove the Dynamat by itself. I cut a lot of sheet metal out of my car for my install. The sheet metal had two laters of Dynamat Xtreme on it. Only about 30 percent of the car was done at the time. Basically from the rear seat and throughout the trunk. When i did my most recent install I used eDead instead and I like it so much better than the Dynamat. Obviously I saw improvement in the areas that had no deadener to begin with but after having the trunk done in Dynamat then going to eDead i was very impressed.
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do NOT use eDead, my window is fudgeed up again because of itDo use eDead. I have 250 sq ft of V1SE2. I love it and haven't gotten it anywhere I didn't want it. It's easy to install because it's flexible and easy to work with. It comes in rolls so you can cut it into 12" x 12" pieces and installation becomes a breeze. You only pay for what you want since it comes rolls which means if you want 13 sq. ft., 130 sq. ft., or 1300 sq. ft. then you can order it that way. It's one of the lesser expensive options. Works about the same as Dynamat Xtreme as far as perfomance. I have used both in my car and removed the Dynamat to install eDead. And if all that isn't reason enough to use it, I have had it installed for going on 2 years and not once have I had a piece peel off, come loose, melt away, start stinking, become brittle, or get on my window. eDead V1SE2 FTMFW!!!!!!!!
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3 Fi sp4 15"s, 6th, 8.0 TFE, kerfing, fiberglass, "El Nino"
in Build Logs
Posted · Edited by germanyt
The loading wall seems awful thin. And port area huge. Almost seams like it would just act like a sealed enclosure.
edit. nvm forgot this is a 6th order. The whole time I'm looking at the 4th hole like it's for a sub.