theMessenjah44

Sorry my drawings are a little crude, but I'm taking an auto electrical class and some of our discussions got me thinking. I did a search and found nothing on it, but would like some input. I figured this would be a better place to post it than ca.com With series wiring, once power has passed through a load, there is a voltage drop depending on all 3 factors, Voltage, amperage, and ohms of resistance. With parallel wiring, each leg of the circuit gets the same voltage, only amperage and resistance fluctuate (they SHOULDN'T fluctuate differently in an audio setup, but if all coils are identical, theoretically, they all do the same thing) Remember, these are all theory, but even with impedance rise, they should still hold true...if I'm correct. We'll start with a simple parallel diagram At the final resistance of 1 ohm.... we need to calculate amperage to determine power. 40V / 1 ohm = 40A of current 40V x 40 A = 1600 watts of total power Each coil sees the full 40 volts from the amp, and provides a 2 ohm load, which would look like this 40V / 2 ohms = 20 Amps of current 20 A x 2 ohms = 40 volts of Voltage drop from each leg. 40V x 20 A = 800 Watts per coil On to Series circuits At a final resistance of 4 ohms 40V / 4 ohms = 10 Amps of total current 40V x 10 A = 400 watts of total power On Coil 1 40V x 10 A = 400 Watts 10A x 2 ohms = 20 Volts of voltage drop 40V (original) – 20 Volts (Voltage drop from first coil) = 20 V remaining for the second coil On Coil 2 20V x 10 A = 200 Watts 10 A x 2 ohms = 20 V of Voltage drop, leaving 0 to return to the battery. I did one for Series-Parallel as well, but I think this Series one sums it up well. To me…it looks like when you wire in series, the first coil will get full power, every one after that loses power. It looks to me like parallel is the way to go unless someone can find something wrong with what I’ve done.

I never said it would be 40V of voltage drop on the first coil, that would only happen in parallel. I'm still not completely understanding what you're saying....however I was planning on playing with my multimeter on my system tomorrow. Thanks for the help

Also from the link you posted. Under the heading Voltage Law it states: "The voltage changes around any closed loop must sum to zero. No matter what path you take through an electric circuit, if you return to your starting point you must measure the same voltage, constraining the net change around the loop to be zero." In series circuits, current stays the same, but voltage drops after each load. In parallel, Voltage stays the same, but current varies depending on resistance. Am I right?

Ok, this is from the link you posted. if I'm reading this wrong, would someone care to explain what's going on? Also, there is 0 Volts returning to the battery. the link you posted even says so. The diagram on the right shows 12V at the first load, dropping by 9 volts, leaving 3 volts at the second load? How much voltage would be sitting at the second coil? I don't see how series and parallel would be the same. Also...I'm at school to learn....I didn't claim I know it all yet. I just said we were discussing circuits and this caused me to think of this It's a class for ASE certification.

http://www.soundoff.org/cgi-bin/schedule/display.cgi?search=1&display_all=1 Quincy is about 220 miles from Kansas City, that's about how far I drive. They have a show at Paulie's every month.

thread's been there since the middle of December with no bites except a couple low-ball "hey i'll trade you this blown sub" I just posted it on caraudio.com a few days ago and it's gotten a little interest, but we'll see

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=23746 750 shipped

I was actually going to call or email them today, but I can't seem to find contact information on the company....that blows

http://hypnoticusa.com/vertigo_amplifiers.htm When they say "rated power" I assume that means RMS and not Max, correct?

that was my thought thanks for the answers, unless someone comes up with something different, but that makes sense to me

Right now I've got 2 of their amps in my friends' cars and a few sets of their bottom of the line coax speakers. I'm extremely impressed with their quality for their low prices. I just sold one of the V1000DX's to a guy I know, and someone told him that those were MAX powers, so he asked me about it. I read it as them being RMS

Beefy! love the cones

Forgot to say, on the box it says "rated power" on the site, it doesn't. but it still gives the same numbers Thanks for the quick response Ryan

last year the ground wire came loose and fried the distributor, I believe it was. I sent the amp back for repairs, then it worked fine. The second time I installed it, I ran double strands of 1/0 front to back in the car, one pos. one ground, there's no way it was a grounding issue this time. I know I didn't hook the coils up wrong, I checked my connections 3 times, and with the other amp, I haven't had any issues. I will test the coils like you suggested though. Back to the original question. AC voltage ^2 = wattage, correct?

My amp's been kicking into protect for no known reason, I've checked every possible connection and wire, and undervoltage is impossible, this is an Atomic 800.1 with a Battcap 2000 in the trunk of my car. I put in a tone cd playing 60hz, put a DMM on the 200 AC voltage setting, touched + and - respectively on the amp outputs then turned the HU up until the amp shut down and we're reading 8.4 volts before shutdown 8.4 x 8.4 = 70 watts am I correct or have I completely lost it? Please don't just jump on me for using a DMM, I know it's not the best way, it's just the most accessible way for me to find wtf is going on.

I have a Powerbass XA-3000D on it right now. the subs are not blown, they were brand new out of the box when I hooked them up. I just wanted to make sure I was figuring the output correctly. AC voltage 8.4^2 = about 70 watts, correct? Still, what does DCR mean?

DC voltage keeps around 13.5 even with music playing Also I don't know what you mean by DCR, sorry

Thanks for all the help guys

Just wondering if this was still on, I'm not working the night before anymore, so odds of me being able to come are good

glad I saw this, Effingham is about 45 minutes from where I live, definitely up for meeting some members! Late afternoon or early evening sometime would be great for me, I get off work at 7 a.m. on the 6th and would prefer a little time to sleep

welcome to SSA I'm from IL, but I'm from the Decatur area

Well, I went to the NAIAS in Detroit on Saturday. It was friggin awesome! If you ever get the chance to go..do it! Anyway, I took around 250 pics, and while I seemed to get a bad glare on almost every shot, I figured I'd share what I took. http://s46.photobucket.com/albums/f109/the...4/NAIAS%202008/

Alright...we started with this. We originally built an 8.5 cubic foot box for a Blazer, but he sold the blazer and bought a 1990 Mustang GT hatchback...which is just a little small for 8.5 cubes. Here's what we started with Then started cutting and gluing

Atomic Manhattan D4 voice coils, 500 watt RMS power handling. 2.3 cubic foot box after port displacement, tuned to 34 hz I know...we should have painted the port black....we'll get it

We put a pair of powerbass PS-12s behind the seat of a standard cab '00 S-10. I think they hit pretty well. We just threw a prefab S-10 box back there. The small subs took up every bit of depth that the box had. He's 6' or 6'1 and he's basically eating the steering wheel. It's gonna be tough to hit 140 without doing a blow-through or sacrificing comfort in driving. Then again you're talking about an older truck. I'd do four 10's if I knew I could still drive with it...but I'm 6'4" and don't fit in many vehicles comfortably.