Basshead

it should do that because the calculator works within the dimensions entered. so extra baffles are 'placed' inside the box. now the differences in the 2 calculators are the port volume. i'll have to check into that. thanks for posting those

UPDATED!!! finally got everything worked out that i wanted, plus a neat addition or two. ***When downloading, make sure it is saved with a .exe file extension, or it will not open properly. the 'Open with...' window will pop up otherwise*** (thanks gottahavbass917 and a user from another forum) To do this, go to the folder that the calculator is in and click tools in the toolbar at the top (click alt on the keyboard if you can't see the toolbar). Then click folder options. then click the view tab, and in the advanced settings window, there's a check box that says 'hide extensions for known file types'. Uncheck that and you will see the .uexe file extension on the calculator. Take out that U and save it (just as .exe) and it should work. Now you can go back and recheck the check box and hide known file types. Also, should have said this from the get-go (I apologize) but thanks to Razor5070 for the help when i got stuck Here's the new look: In a week or so, as long as I can make completely sure all kinks are worked out, I'm going to redo the layout and upload that as another download. The original one will stay up as well, but it'll be easier to fix anything and then redo the layout and upload rather than adjusting everything to fix and then readjusting everything. It'll be more for widescreen users and everything should be accessible from the get-go. Also, I'm going to try to get it to download as an installer rather than a .exe (or .uexe). But I'm having issues with that as of now. So the current way will still have to do. Here's the download link to the program: Click to download Torres' Box Tuning Calculator Here is an alternate download in a compressed folder: Download Compressed Calculator ***you'll need the most up to date .net framwork for this program to work. click this link to get it*** .NET Framework If you're .NET is up to date, and you're still having troubles opening the calculator, check to make sure it downloaded as a .exe file. It should have normally, but for some it may not. Rename it with a .exe format and it should work. Thanks to pervitizm for finding this solution. For Mac users: This is a windows based program, so it will not work on macs from a fresh download. You'll need to use either parallels, virtualbox, VMWare fusion, or wine. There's port cut sheets in there, but one thing i did NOT include are cut sheets on how to cut the port if it bends. There's too many different ways to cut the sheets, and the coding to go into that would be too tedious to deal with. Maybe at another time down the road. Right now I want to get it uploaded and not have something silly holding it back. Plus, if you're building a speaker box, I'm sure you can go take some measurements in the box and see what the port should be READ THE FAQ/HELP!!!! I've answered questions repetitively because the help window was not read. So read that first please. I've also included a FAQ/tip sheet with it this time around. So if you get confused with something, click there first. If you're STILL confused, send me a PM with any questions. With that being said, I'm still going to paste all the contents of the FAQ here. Box Frequency Tuning Calculator - FAQ/Tip Guide *------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------* 1 - First and foremost, the RE calculator is *not* spot on, and is limited in design, so no, it will not match this calculator. 2 - When doing an oddly shaped box such as a fiberglass box, or you know the volume of a certain box you have in mind that you want to build, put the net volume in the 'Desired Net Volume' box. This will bypass all dimensions entered preventing you from having to guess dimensions to get a certain net volume and will allow you to tinker with different port sizes and tuning. So if you know you want a box with 4 cubic feet of net volume, enter '4' into that box and it will allow you to adjust tuning accordingly to that specific volume. Keep in mind that any displacement nor port volume is NOT subtracted from this total. Any number in this box will override any number in the 'Desired Gross Volume' box. 3 - The 'Desired Gross Volume' box acts much like the 'Desired Net Volume' box, except all displacements are taken into effect. 4 - If the '# of ports' box is greater than 0, that will automatically get taken into effect and the calculator will ignore the dimensions for slot ports. 5 - The '# of Common Port Walls' box refers to how many sides of the box are going to act as sides of the port. This is done by looking at the port head on and counting how many sides of the box that face of the port uses as the port walls. The port inside the box has nothing to do with the common port walls. Please refer to the links below for examples. 6 - Aero ports have a defaulted thickness of 3/16" -- couldn't decide whether to use 1/8" or 1/4" so I went in the middle. 7 - Port length uses the box wall or baffle(s) as part of the port length. So a port that is 10" long with one baffle using .75" wood will only need to be 9.25" long since the box wall or baffle(s) will account for the other .75". If using two baffles, then it would be 8.5" long as the baffle will account for 1.5" of port length and so on. 8 - When using multiple ports, whether they be round or rectangular ports, the port length MUST be the same for each port. The port length does **NOT** get divided among the ports. This will affect your net volume and severely raise your tuning. 9 - Program resolution is set to 840 pixels in width and 780 pixels in height. Try to stay within this resolution for custom backgrounds or program may lag. Using .png files will also help prevent program lag. 10 - The extra baffle box should only have a value if you plan on using multiple baffles. Leave blank or a zero if you are only going to use a single baffle. 11 - Regular square/rectangle boxes do not need any numbers entered into the 'Height 2' or 'Depth 2' boxes. 12 - Pressing 'Enter' will prompt the program to print. 13 - PLEASE NOTE: 'Physical port length' refers to the length of the wood itself needed to build the port. This is NOT the same as the effective port, or the port you entered into the port length box that the box will 'see'. You measure on the inside of the port (against the port wall) to measure the physical port, in the same way you measure down the middle of the port to get your actual, or effective, port length. 14 - When doing an external port, the full length of the port must be entered into the port length box. Then the length of the external port in the 'External Port' box. This way the proper port length (the Port Length box) will be used for the equation, and the proper volume will be added to the net volume (the volume of the external section of the port) for proper tuning. 15 - On the cut sheets of boxes with different depths and heights, you'll notice 'H1' or 'D2' next to the measurements. These represent which dimension is which. Here are two pictures to illustrate: Box with one height, but two different depths: Box with two heights and two different depths: --The following are links that illustrate how each ported box is taken into effect in the calculator (sub and port position can be upwards with the same effect): 1 - Port with 0 common walls: 2 - Slot port with 1 common wall: 3 - Slot port with 2 common walls: 4 - Slot port with 3 common walls: --The images were made with Google Sketchup. Free to download: http://sketchup.google.com/ Should be 99% debugged (I think). But after staring at the same coding for so long, things are bound to slip by. So IF you do find something that seems out of place, PM me about it please. Only if you're certain about it. I dont want to go check something or explain how it's done several times over because it may be coded a certain way that you may be thinking differently. That'd be too tedious for me to do constantly. Hope you guys like it the update And if you appreciate my work, buy me a beer https://www.paypal.c...d=KSKSZ2SBUV6RS

thanks man! always appreciate positive feedback

Click Me there's a link for the newest update. i wish i was able to edit my first post :\ rather than having post after post of links. oh well.

in the meantime, could you post a screen shot up of the old one with the info you entered? i may be able to point something out, whether in the old one or something i did in the new one

damn...i'm gonna have to try to get a hold of my old one. somewhere somehow it got replaced lol. i thought i had it on a laptop, but it was the current one i was testing out : i'll check it out asap tho

Changelog:

i will say one error was pointed out to me that i didn't think would cause some problems, and it's been fixed. i also uploaded it before i put in the port ratio section. got ahead of myself fixing all the other things lol. but all is well now. meh....i can't edit my post. here's the fixed downloads Regular File Compressed File

interesting enough design. but i can see port noise coming from it. may be a sufficient amount of port area, but it's so thin. if possible i'd redo the dimensions of the box to add more port area without there being too much of it. but definitely thinking outside the box

awesome! glad you like it

i had a thread a while ago that had a download to a box tuning calculator that i made. i've since upgraded it hardcore and would like to repost it. i cant edit my original post in the other thread which is why i'm making a new one. also since i cant edit my original post to update it, i'm linking it to SMD where the original thread is to download from. that way i can update that one which will in turn update the link to the download from here and still allow comments and questions on this forum (i hope that's all ok). if a mod would like, the other thread can be deleted if they find it to prevent any confusion. that one is pretty old tho, so probably buried tho i found it from google. anyways here's the link Box Tuning Calculator Download hope you guys like it feel free to leave any questions or comments

bump for a few others who may not have seen it

i'm gettin 1.77 cubes @ 32.59 hz. one more tenth of bracing puts you at 1.67 cubes @ 33.55 hz

thanks pen and paper is always nice. knowing you did it right yourself

thank you

aeros for a general rule of thumb is about 9-13 sq inches of port compared to 12-16 for slot ports. your calculations are pretty spot on. 2.08 cubes of net volume tuned to ~32.84 hz with 14.42 sq inches of port per foot. i guessed that it was a slot port using 3 walls however. that would only effect it with about a 1 hz difference either way

square is the same to figure net volume. but also does not need any end correction figured in. here's a link to a box tuning calculator i made in visual basic. i'm about to make a separate thread for it now Torres' (ExpoSport) Box Tuning Calculator UPDATED 3/10 - SMD Forum

i've been making and tweaking a box calculator the last few months. it's come along nicely i'd say. it's been over on *** (i'm ExpoSport over there...and if it's possible to change this name to ExpoSport me love you long time so after getting it tweaked to a good point i figured i'd share it elsewhere now. one thing that is still in the works is an open/save feature so you can save designs instead of printing or writing them down everytime. this is mainly for square/slot ports. plain boxes will be easier to do, but if you build a box in the car for example, you'd need to figure out the volume on your own and then fill the boxes in accordingly to get that volume, and then do what you need to do for tuning. same if you use angled sides in the box, tho i may try to come up with something for those, but the open/save feature comes first. Box Calculator.exe - 0.05MB ***you'll need the most up to date .net framwork for this program to work click this link to get it http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/details.aspx?FamilyID=0856EACB-4362-4B0D-8EDD-AAB15C5E04F5&displaylang=en ***just to clarify...when doing a slot port to add in end correction, use the port height as the the distance from the box wall to the side of the port wall. switching the numbers will give you a different tuning, as port width will be longer in and it'll extend the tuning a lil further than it should hope you guys like lemme know what ya think or any ideas i could possibly incorporate. as far as i know it should be pretty error proof

ah shit so i've been doin it wrong this whole time?!

you may hear a lil difference, but a majority of the difference that you'll hear is from the enclosure as it's 80% of an install. i'd go with what memphis mzd said on port area. maybe a slightly smaller box tho, and maybe even a tad less port area per foot. tune 32-35 hz. i know you said you're jobless, but if you could get ahold of some aeros that'd be more efficient than a slot/square port and save some volume so you may be able to keep your back seats still, depending on how big the box needs to be

it is, but it can be played daily as well. i had a pair at one time. but...5000 watts is WAY too much for them imo. i've seen it done from a couple people, but usually they dont take kindly to it. mine didnt (tho it may have been due to other issues) are you able to build your own enclosure? if you can that will help knock down some of the cost and allow more money into the equipment.

i've heard that, but i've used several brands (including stinger) and havent had any issues with any. just saying . i'm currently using some i made myself ftw and i use 8 gauge for my speaker wire. cuz all the cool kids are doin it! and cuz i had it sittin around

if you are able to squeeze some down there, try some weather stripping. it's spongy so it can fit in tight spots. get that between the panels and the window and that should help stop the rattle. it's sticky on one side, so i'd probably try to push it in first so it doesnt stick on anything else, then start at one side and peel the paper off and let it stick

that is not the resonant frequency of the vehicle, that's just the peak frequency of the box, hence why you change tuning, your peak changes. thumpper has it right. a small sealed box. find the peak (or peaks and average them) and that'll be the vehicles resonant frequency

imo i dont see a real point in tuning a box so low like that. unless you listen to lots of chopped and screwed music. most rap plays around the high 30's to mid 40's. tune the box to ~35 hz. i used to tune low as well...and my current setup is tuned to somewhere between 35-36 hz, and that's by far my favorite tuning frequency. i still get the low notes, and music sounds better overall. i'd especially change tuning since you say you're not happy with the way this current box sounds.