Polish

Hello, thanks for checking out my build. I decided to stick a system in my Honda after years of not having anything but stock audio. I just don't have a lot of funds for high end equipment, so pretty much everything is budget equipment. I don't really have any goal other than to eventually hit 150db for as cheap as possible, we shall see how that turns out. For now I am just enjoying having some tunes again. As of right now I've got the following gear installed. (You can click the links for more pictures) Head Unit – Alpine CDA9805 Front Door Speakers –6.5″ MB Quart Components FSB216 Rear Door Speakers – 6.5” Phoenix Gold Coaxial Amplifier – MB Quart 1.400 on the Subs – 400 watts @ 2 ohms Subwoofers – 4 x Lanzar Max10D 10” DVC 4ohm wired in series @ 8 ohms then all paralleled together for a 2 ohm load on the Amp. DIY Slot Ported box tuned @ 33hz This is more a loud street setup, meant to sound decent with music and still get loud. I would tune for 45-55hz in a pure SPL burp box. I like the lows to still play though, so low tuning for a daily box. Wiring – 4AWG DB link budget kit & Scosche Distribution Block – 4 Fused outputs with Voltage Display. This puts me at about $300 total audio cost so far. I need to upgrade the sub amp, install an amp on the highs, do the big 3, install the rest of my deadener along with numerous other small projects. I will add some pics to this thread when I do updates. As of now here are some pics of the gear I've already got along with some pics of the box build. MBQ Comps. (tweeter is up high) Some deadener I put on the hatch the other day. Box Build Pics Wish I had a nail gun, drilling and screwing took forever. You can see the 7" brace in the middle of the box. Don't mine the hideous port, I didn't have any paint handy so I gave it a sharpie treatment for now. I'll be making a proper amp rack once I have a permanent amp. I also need to install a terminal cup for the sub box, but I can't find one I like yet. I may do bolts, not sure. Any questions let me know. As of now even with only 400 watts the 4 10's get down, I know they can take a lot more though. I will post a video soon as well.

A quick demo video showing a bit of flex with whatever Decaf song was playing at the moment.

It reminds me of Chewbacca.

The American Bass 15 is still kicking hard, this sub is awesome. I'd love to upgrade to an 18 of some sort eventually just to move a little more air but they are all so expensive unless you settle for a basic Parts Express model which wouldn't hold a candle to the 15. I'd like to upgrade everything again really but being a baller on a budget, it's no so easy. If you were in my shoes, what would you upgrade? Here are my current system specs. I might look into some OFC wiring but not sure how much it would help given my current lowish power setup. Head Unit – Pioneer DEH-X7500SFront Door Speakers –6.5″ MB Quart Components FSB216Rear Door Speakers – 6.5” Phoenix Gold Coaxial (HU Power)Amplifiers – Rockford Fosgate R125-2 on the MBQ’s / MB Quart ONX1.1600D on the SubSubwoofer - American Bass XFL 15″ Dual 2 Ohm in 4.4 cu/ft tuned to 33hzBattery/Wiring – Xs Power S680 / 2 AWG DB Link CCA / Scosche Distribution BlockSound Deadening – 40ish sq/ft FatMat in the hatch. I would have liked some higher end second skin type deadening but the budget was not there.

Yea man I wish I could try an 18 or add another 15. My 15 is still doing great. _ I got a new battery under the hood finally. The S680 XS Power. I am pretty impressed so far for such a small battery. Gonna add a D series or something in the back soon. Then MORE POWER!!

American Bass 15 is still banging hard. I am going to make a new fiberglass box soon and port it. My oem battery is done though, the amp finally beat it into submission. So I ordered what I could fit in the OEM spot for now. An XS Power S680 AGM Battery, should do the trick for now.

Got the 15" in my old box and it's pretty serious for a single sub. I didn't hammer on it too hard just yet but it seems to have those 4 10's easily matched. We'll see once I crank on it a bit more. It's in my old ported box, 4.4 cubes @ 33 hertz. I had to mount it to the front of the box though, since the brace was in the way to mount it up top. So I stuck some MDF over the 4 10" holes and screwed it down. I cut a quick hole and tossed it in. I'll see how it does in this box and decide if I want to go bigger or smaller when I eventually make a box just for this sub. I think the size will be about the same though, might adjust tuning a bit depending how testing this box plays out. It's nothing special to look at right now so I didn't take a pic yet. Got the 15" in my old box and it's pretty serious for a single sub. I didn't hammer on it too hard just yet but it seems to have those 4 10's easily matched. We'll see once I crank on it a bit more. It's in my old ported box, 4.4 cubes @ 33 hertz. I had to mount it to the front of the box though, since the brace was in the way to mount it up top. So I stuck some MDF over the 4 10" holes and screwed it down. I cut a quick hole and tossed it in. I'll see how it does in this box and decide if I want to go bigger or smaller when I eventually make a box just for this sub. I think the size will be about the same though, might adjust tuning a bit depending how testing this box plays out. It's nothing special to look at right now so I didn't take a pic yet.

Update time. I decided to cut up the 4th order, it just took up too much space. In doing so the 4 10's got damaged, they were inverted and the surround gasket foam stuck to the mdf. So it peeled away part of each even trying to be careful. So I stopped at a local car audio place today and picked up a new sub, it's the American Bass XFL 15" D2. This thing is a beast, I am going to make a new baffle for my old 4.4 cu/ft ported box (33hz) and use that for now. Here are some pics of the sub.

This is what the new white led dome looks like during the day, it's very bright. Stuck the new RF R125-2 amp in real quick. This is behind the passenger seat. The box takes up so much room currently I don't have a spot to mount the amps together. The MB Quart components sound so much better with a proper amp, night and day difference. I just need to get a better battery now. Then some bondo and vinyl so I can make some proper door pods and dash pod. Then I plan to change the sub box and subs to get the amp down to 1 ohm.

Got my new amp in today, made a quick video. Check it out. Should have it in this weekend.

I did it in my 4th order box so I can smell the coils if they start to get hot.

I finally got a 2 channel amp on order to power the highs. As usual I am ballin on a budget, so I got the RF R125-2. It's cheap but will get the job done. I will update once I get it put in. It should wake up the components a lot compared to deck power.

Add it all up and subtract it from the internal volume. So if you have two subs that displace .10 each, that is .20. Then the port displaces .90 which you add to the .20 so the total is 1.10. Then you would subtract 1.10 from the box volume. If it was 6.10, you would be left with 5 cu/ft. Make sure you only calculate the internal port volume, not the entire thing.

8 cu/ft box (after port/woofer displacement) tuned at 28-30hz should move some air.

New Dash Setup. Well for a short time until I can get an AudioControl Epic160, then I am going to fiberglass it so it is angled at the driver a bit. Pioneer DEHX7500s Digital Volt Meter Equus Analog Volt Meter 8-18v with LED bulb to match radio - not so blinding in person Autometer Water Temp Gauge (sender not hooked up at time of pic) with a white led bulb

Got some new goods on the way finally, seems like forever since I changed anything. I got some white led bulbs to replace the crappy blue ones I have now in the dome and hatch light. I also got 2 voltmeters, one digital readout and one analog readout type. I am not sure which I'll hook to where yet but I wanted digital since it's easier to read at a glance but analog because it should respond faster for quick drops, so I got both. I also got a new headunit so I can connect my phone easier for music access. I use a crappy fm modulator right now with the old Alpine and it sucks. I went with the Pioneer DEHx7500S, it also has quite a few more options over my current 10 year old Alpine. So that should be a nice change. I'll have pics up once it all comes in and I get stuff installed. Next up after this round of stuff is an amp for my highs which I need badly and a new battery, which also really need.

Dang, all of these are 3+ hours from me.

Well that sucks you are dropping that low at idle, I can see it dropping some but that seems a bit much especially with a smaller pulley. Might be time to try another brand like you said. On the flip side - at least you can get an upgraded alternator. I've tried a few places and no one even offers one for my car.

You don't need another remote wire, just connect to the one you already have. You can connect the rca cables but not hook them to an amp, it won't hurt anything at all. I wouldn't electrical tape them though, it might leave some residue on the ends if you ever do use them. I'd just wrap them in some plastic and zip tie it myself. Make sure they cannot touch each other though. As for the amp load - I assume you are connecting the left channel to 2 left speakers and the right channel to 2 right speakers. If so then you are correct, just parallel each side together. You don't have to run a wire from each speaker to the amp though, you can if you want but you don't have to. If they are both in the same door you can just run one wire to each door then go from one speaker to the next and it will be the same result. If you're running really thin wire then maybe do a run for each speaker but if you're running some good (OFC; Oxygen free copper) thick speaker wire (12-14awg size) then a single run will probably do fine.

Hopefully some good karma comes your way for being a good guy here.

Nice man, looks like it gets down pretty good.

If any local place sells deep cycle AGM batteries you can pretty much use any brand. You just want to stick with AGM type since they are sealed and can be mounted inside the cabin without being in a vented battery box. Edit - AGM = Absorbed Glass Mat (If you search AGM Battery on Amazon you'll see there are lots of options)

Assuming all have the same sealed/ported volume and same port size. I know the pics aren't to scale so don't take that into consideration. I have seen pretty much all of these types used, so I know any would technically work but I wonder about cancellation with all but # 2. The box would be for 8 10's, tuned to 45hz with about 35 cubes total if you're curious. I would have never considered facing subs at each other in the past but I've seen some of the loudest 4th orders with subs facing right at each other like design 1 and 3 so it might not be as much of an issue as I was always told. All are 4th order walls in case that wasn't obvious and the crap drawing is an overhead shot. I only angled the baffles so you could see how many subs were in each spot in the pics. They would all be straight up and down in the actual build. The port would be centered in all designs except # 2, that would be drivers side. Here are my personal thoughts on all 4. # 1. I see this design used all the time so it must work at least ok. I just don't like the idea of a non common chamber as I feel it would be pretty hard to get the cu/ft of both to be identical. I would have thought in the past cancellation would be an issue but as I said above some of the loudest 4th orders I've seen use this layout. # 2. Common Chamber and no Cancellation issues, so I would think it would do well. However with some subs being much closer to the port I don't know if it would affect output or have issues in that regard. # 3. Common Chamber but possible cancellation - I don't see many people go this route but I sort of like the design. It keeps the subs in the same chamber and farther from the port. # 4. Common Chamber with an angled wall. Some say you MUST do angles to avoid cancellation so I figured I'd throw a design in like this. I don't like it because it would be fairly hard to get the cu/ft measurement to be exact. A square is much easier to calculate and build correctly for me personally. I could also turn the sealed section in design # 2 sideways so all the subs face the port which is how my current setup with 4 10's is, but it isn't a wall. It's just a 16 cu/ft box with the port facing the hatch. Some say they will unload this way, but I currently don't seem to have any issue with that as far as I know. Music played will be a wide variety but the end goal is basically the same as most, stupid low and stupid loud when I play stuff such as Decaf. It has a decent amount of windshield flex now with the 4 but I want more. My amp (MB Quart ONX1600) is 1 ohm stable so I can add 4 more subs and still be fine since I am currently only running it at 2 ohms. It won't double the power but will gain some. It is rated 1,100 @ 2ohms and 1,600 @ 1ohm but in reality it is probably more like 500-700 @ 2 and 800-1,000 @ 1. Subs are my cheapo Lanzars but I ain't got the budget for baller subs. Thanks for any input you care to provide.

The tuning frequency of all boxes is 45hz, as specified in my very first post so one can assume it will peak there but that could vary by a bit once in the car obviously. So I cannot just name a single frequency and say "this one", just not possible. I was just asking in general terms if any of the designs are known to be more efficient or better for pure spl. I am not at all concerned with "Sq" or "flat response". I am concerned with maximum pressure, nothing more. I have modeled numerous ported setups for these subs, they are many Db's down across the board compared to a 4th order so they are out of the question. Sure it is a flatter graph, but that is not my end goal. If I were I wouldn't be walling it or putting so many subs in. I'd be running a single sub of much better quality.

154 is serious business, nice job.