ricksi30

Thank you!

Thanks Sean that is exactly what I wanted to know.

Likely a simple steering angle sensor recalibration is all that is needed. I see it a lot on BMWs after a battery replacement. Too bad you don't live closer. I would flash it for you in under 5 minutes. Oh how I hope your right. The battery was replaced about 300-500 miles ago when she bought it. Thank you for at least giving me an idea.

Just to add to the car drama my Mom calls me today saying her "new" car is giving her a "dynamic drive malfunction" error. The car is a 2010 535i with ~29,000 miles. I went over to check the idrive because she doesn't know how to use it and it is saying something like increased body roll avoid high speed cornering? I've searched and can't really find anything relevant aside from one thread on a 7 series forum. Any ideas? I'm taking the car to BMW Saturday I guess. I drove it around a bit and it feels fine.

Got to love new toys! Those things are beasts. How thick of material are you shearing? Sweet!

Then sell the BTO and your big amp and go smaller. Will allow you a budget to make the front stage work. Hardly need a sub even for SQ. Sure it's important, but hardly comparatively.Power is the last thing you should worry about. Mounting locations and install first. Good advice and negative votes.....I added one for you Sean. I know that you don't give a shit about your feedback as do I but it makes your post look less credible when people neg good advice.

Great choice

Tuned in!

This was just a quick google of "2003 Altima retrieve codes". http://forums.nicoclub.com/how-to-info-reset-ecu-pull-codes-reset-windows-etc-t525400.html Some car's require an OBD style reader but others just require a sequence of events to make the check engine light blink out the codes in a morse code style fashion. If you own an ohm tester you can look in the service manual what the acceptable range of the faulty sensor/injector is. Thank you and Seth for your help, I really appreciate some honest advice from people who aren't going to try to screw me. I bought a bluetooth scanner it should be here soon. It is most likely going to sit for a few weeks until I get some time to mess with it.

I'm not great with cars but I'm not totally incompetent so hopefully we can get her running and sold as we both bought new cars. It would be nice for my Mom to recoup a few grand out of it. Someone offered me 750 for it and she told me to just get rid of it. I said no way I'll talk to some people smarter than me and see what we can do with it.

SETH I just searched for a quote from you so that you would see this! So I took my mothers 2.5 2003 Nissan Altima (100k miles) in because it was idling rough and would "chug" while driving. They had it for 3 days and could not get it to replicate the problem. I said fine forget it as my Mom had already bought a new car and she was just going to cut her losses and she was going to sell it. I couldn't pick it up that day and the next day I get a call that they tried to back it out of the garage and it "blew up" it made a loud sound and now it won't start. They said that the 3rd cylinder had low pressure and they didn't want to dig any deeper without permission. They said that it may have "jumped the timing chain" and that it could be an easy fix or that "the engine might need to be replaced". This car has been meticulously maintained by these idiots but I just have a hard time believing that this engine is truly done. Is there anything that you can suggest without having your hands on it? This place seems to be incompetent but they are not trying to charge to fix anything so I do not know what to make of the situation. If you can suggest anything I'd appreciate it. We are basically looking for the best way to get rid of it financially. Basically if it were your car and you couldn't work on it yourself what would you do? We had an offer of $750 for it but it has $500 dollars worth of brand new rubber on it, and the kbb value is about 4.5k in poor condition. Should we attempt to repair and sell it, or should we just sell it as a "mechanics special"? If we try to sell it what should we expect? I completely understand if you can't give a definitive answer, I'm just looking for a ballpark. I'd get the issue looked into by a competent mechanic before selling it. It is doubtful that it is a mechanical issue, by the sounds of things. On a Nissan I would be more inclined to believe an injector failure. Odds are they tried throwing coils and plugs on it and it didn't work. Nissans are notorious for injector issues. I agree with Seth that is more likely something non mechanical, like an injector or bad sensor somewhere sending faulty signals to the ECM. Lazy mechanics don't want anything to do with electrical gremlins. I have repaired and sold many electric gremlin cars that I got for free. Have you retrieved any code's from the ECM? Try resetting the ECM and see if it has any effect. When an ECM is reset it will run in limp (default) mode for X amount of mile's (usaully around 50mi) until the ECM has collected enough data to recalibrate. To reset the ECM disconnect the battery cables and hold the cable ends together. This will discharge any power stored in the ECM and clear all collected data. Make sure to retrieve any codes before discharging. Some code's are false in the sense that they point you in the right direction, but not always the actual sensor. Awesome guys thanks! So if I reset the ecm I might be able to get it home, also how long do I need to touch the wires to discharge the ecm? My house is only about 3 miles away and my Mom's is even closer. If not I'll probably just get it towed. If the car is not running then yes try the discharge. 30 seconds is usually sufficient. If it is running I would try to retrieve the codes first. After re reading your first post I remember a similar issue on a Nissan I worked on. IIRC It ended up being the MAP/MAF sensor in the air intake. I can't remember if I just cleaned it or replaced it. IIRC I replaced it bc it tested out of range with a ohm's meter. Hmmm when they were screwing with it they said the MAF sensor was very dirty so they cleaned it. I was thinking that could be it as I have read that cleaning them can mess them up. It does not start btw.

Double

The trunk looks big but I'm not sure about the opening or the wheel well bulges. I hope that I can get it in with it's current enclosure (which I still haven't even heard yet!!) but if not I'll build something to get it in there. I'm also thinking of a four ethos wall in the I and getting something smaller for the M. Only time will tell I guess. But I will definitely put a sub in it either way.

Basically if it were your car and you couldn't work on it yourself what would you do? We had an offer of $750 for it but it has $500 dollars worth of brand new rubber on it, and the kbb value is about 4.5k in poor condition. Should we attempt to repair and sell it, or should we just sell it as a "mechanics special"? If we try to sell it what should we expect? I completely understand if you can't give a definitive answer, I'm just looking for a ballpark. I'd get the issue looked into by a competent mechanic before selling it. It is doubtful that it is a mechanical issue, by the sounds of things. On a Nissan I would be more inclined to believe an injector failure. Odds are they tried throwing coils and plugs on it and it didn't work. Nissans are notorious for injector issues. I agree with Seth that is more likely something non mechanical, like an injector or bad sensor somewhere sending faulty signals to the ECM. Lazy mechanics don't want anything to do with electrical gremlins. I have repaired and sold many electric gremlin cars that I got for free. Have you retrieved any code's from the ECM? Try resetting the ECM and see if it has any effect. When an ECM is reset it will run in limp (default) mode for X amount of mile's (usaully around 50mi) until the ECM has collected enough data to recalibrate. To reset the ECM disconnect the battery cables and hold the cable ends together. This will discharge any power stored in the ECM and clear all collected data. Make sure to retrieve any codes before discharging. Some code's are false in the sense that they point you in the right direction, but not always the actual sensor. Awesome guys thanks! So if I reset the ecm I might be able to get it home, also how long do I need to touch the wires to discharge the ecm? My house is only about 3 miles away and my Mom's is even closer. If not I'll probably just get it towed.

Thanks man! I've liked this car since it came out. I also gutted the bose in my I30 but just can't see doing it to this car.

Thanks man! Means a lot coming from the guy who changes cars instead of oil.

Thanks! Yeah at this point I'm thinking I might just add a sub and call it done. Thanks man.

I don't want to add anything to the dash, I want to keep it looking stock. I am trying to find the easiest way to do a proper front stage while keeping a stock look, and stock functionality.

I'm very excited, I was looking at g35's and came across this within my budget. I love the interior and the looks of the car overall, it's pretty quick stock but I'll probably do a small drop on it and a few bolt ons. Looking to get it in the low 14's to high 13's and mid 5's to 60, not bad for a big ass sedan.

Thank you sir! My friends and I used to go to dealerships when we first got our licenses to test drive cars. I drove this car and fell in love with it back in 06 and told myself I was going to get one someday, 8 years later it has become a reality.

Will do thanks.

Wow you are pretty far north. I just bought a new ride so I'm thinking about walling the I30. If I do I'm going to travel to shows

SETH I just searched for a quote from you so that you would see this! So I took my mothers 2.5 2003 Nissan Altima (100k miles) in because it was idling rough and would "chug" while driving. They had it for 3 days and could not get it to replicate the problem. I said fine forget it as my Mom had already bought a new car and she was just going to cut her losses and she was going to sell it. I couldn't pick it up that day and the next day I get a call that they tried to back it out of the garage and it "blew up" it made a loud sound and now it won't start. They said that the 3rd cylinder had low pressure and they didn't want to dig any deeper without permission. They said that it may have "jumped the timing chain" and that it could be an easy fix or that "the engine might need to be replaced". This car has been meticulously maintained by these idiots but I just have a hard time believing that this engine is truly done. Is there anything that you can suggest without having your hands on it? This place seems to be incompetent but they are not trying to charge to fix anything so I do not know what to make of the situation. If you can suggest anything I'd appreciate it. We are basically looking for the best way to get rid of it financially. Basically if it were your car and you couldn't work on it yourself what would you do? We had an offer of $750 for it but it has $500 dollars worth of brand new rubber on it, and the kbb value is about 4.5k in poor condition. Should we attempt to repair and sell it, or should we just sell it as a "mechanics special"? If we try to sell it what should we expect? I completely understand if you can't give a definitive answer, I'm just looking for a ballpark.

SETH I just searched for a quote from you so that you would see this! So I took my mothers 2.5 2003 Nissan Altima (100k miles) in because it was idling rough and would "chug" while driving. They had it for 3 days and could not get it to replicate the problem. I said fine forget it as my Mom had already bought a new car and she was just going to cut her losses and she was going to sell it. I couldn't pick it up that day and the next day I get a call that they tried to back it out of the garage and it "blew up" it made a loud sound and now it won't start. They said that the 3rd cylinder had low pressure and they didn't want to dig any deeper without permission. They said that it may have "jumped the timing chain" and that it could be an easy fix or that "the engine might need to be replaced". This car has been meticulously maintained by these idiots but I just have a hard time believing that this engine is truly done. Is there anything that you can suggest without having your hands on it? This place seems to be incompetent but they are not trying to charge to fix anything so I do not know what to make of the situation. If you can suggest anything I'd appreciate it. We are basically looking for the best way to get rid of it financially.