Chris1309ny

Does anybody have any experience with this subwoofer? I managed to pick one of these up on craigslist and couldn't find much information on it other than that it is SSA. It is VERY heavy and seems bigger and stiffer than my HDC3 18. I plan on building a new box for it since the one it came with seems small. I bought this because I wanted to put the HDC3 in a car application but most advised it would not fit with the space I had.

I would just like to start off by thanking everyone here as I have learned so much reading everything here in the past year. As a start to the new year I am starting a new project on a 2002 Chrysler 300m. My previous setup is as follows: 2001 Ford Windstar LX Soundqubed HDC3 18 (2 ohm) SQ2200@ 1 ohm Enclosure built by me designed by Joe X Clarion cz702 Mechman 270 alt As one could probably tell already is that the box does not fit in the trunk. The trunk is designed very strange and impossible to put the box in so I will need to build a new one. I would like to build this box for (2) hdc3s if space is available. I could slide the box in through the back with the seats being down or I could design the box completely in the trunk however I just do not understand how to design a box other than using a simulated program. Any help or feedback or criticism is welcome. My dimensions are.... Heigth 1' 2.5" Width 3' 5" Depth 3' 9" As you can see there is not much space. I can provide any other knowledge when I come home from work tonight if its needed. I just really want to start this as all my equipment is just sitting there and teasing me. Thank you -Chris

Thanks for the advice Gary. I currently only have one 18 hdc3 so maybe I should just stick with one. I can't download the torres box calculator as all I own is a netbook so if someone is willing to design a box for me and I'll shoot them some paypal please pm me or if someone knows someone let me know. I'm very anxious to get this going all this equipment is just sitting in my garage and teasing me. Ughh these programs aren't very much for the beginner are they. I will try my best...any other help is greatly appreciated

Thanks for the advice Gary. I currently only have one 18 hdc3 so maybe I should just stick with one. I can't download the torres box calculator as all I own is a netbook so if someone is willing to design a box for me and I'll shoot them some paypal please pm me or if someone knows someone let me know. I'm very anxious to get this going all this equipment is just sitting in my garage and teasing me.

I assume I would need about 10.5 cubes of space since this is about what 2 hdc3 calls for. However with the measurements above I'm still confused on how to properly use the re calculator. I would really like to start building this box asap so any help or advice is greatly appreciated.

Hello, yes if I have enough space I would like to build a box for two. And yes I plan on running .5 ohm and eventually I will strap another. I will be purchasing a mechman alternator and two xs power batteries also. Thanks

Hello, yes if I have enough space I would like to build a box for two.

I have: mechman 270 amp 2 kinetik hc2000s 0 gauge knuknoceptz with big three -1 hifonics brz1200 (subs) rockford prime (highs) I installed the mechman alternator it said in the instructions to NOT ground to the body as it will cause problems so I skipped this step. My question is do I need to ground the battery in the back if the one up front is not grounded to the frame? I have ran the batteries in parallel using 0 gauge on the - terminals amd + terminals so is this step really necessary? My next question is using a distribution block. I have a 0 gauge distribution block that splits into two 4 gauge terminals. I have my hifonics grounded to the frame with 0 gauge and my rockford grounded with 8 gauge to the frame. My question is how do I ground these now that I am using a second battery? Diagrams tell me to run a - wire from the battery to the amp but I have 2 amps. Also do I use fuse blocks before or after the distribution block? I have all the proper equipment on hand for this (terms, solder, dmm, charger, fuse blocks etc.) I am just confused. If more info is needed let me know. Any helps is greatly appreciated as always. Thanks -Chris

The alternator is grounded to front battery using 0 gauge. My question is do I need a run from the - front battery terminal to the body? I apologize for the confusion.

I am not sure I no longer have them here but it seems like the overall response is to ground both batteries in addition to a parallel run. Thanks guys now can anyone help me with the other questions?

I thought your response was very confusing at first but I reread it and used my brain a little more now I understand. Thanks -chris

Hey there everyone I was just looking for some opinions on what my next upgrade in my car stereo should be to improve overall loudness and sound quality... Here are my specs: 2001 Ford Windstar Van 270 mechman alternator Kinetik HC2000 under the hood knukonceptz 0 guage all soldered with big 3 upgrade 2 Alpine type r 12s (d4s) Hifonics Brz 1200d @ 1ohm Superbass probox prefab fart box Sony CDX-M8800 head unit 4 Infinity 6x9s on Rockford p300 4 pioneer 6x8s on JL 500/5 Metra speaker wire I am completely unsure what item to replace to improve my sound (louder and deeper bass mostly) the most or if someone suggests adding another battery I'm not sure but I would love to hear from everyone all input is welcome. $200-$500 is about what I like to spend on a new part to make it easier. Thank you -chris

I actually think it sounds pretty loud and deep to be honest so I really can't wait for a new enclosure as it seems like that is what people are suggesting. I was mostly in a toss up on the box or the HU.

Thanks for the input and the quick response!

It seems as though a nightmare has occured because yesterday my voltage was very low and my battery light kept flickering on and off. I went to O'Riellys and they told me my battery was bad. I have owned the Kinetik HC1800 for only about 6 months now and I have a custom 240 amp alternator (12v). I need advice please! If in fact the battery is bad what to I change to? Here are the specs: 2001 Ford Windstar LX Pioneer Head Unit 0 gauge & big three 2 alpine type rs hifonics brz1200d @1ohm Kinetik HC1800 (claimed to be bad after 6 months?) The gentleman at O'Reillys told me to switch to an Optima? As a car audio guy I though Optimas weren't the way to go? I was thinking XS? I need advice so anything and everything is appreciated. -CHRIS

So far in my 2001 Ford Windstar I have: 2 Alpine Type Rs Hifonics Brutus 1200 mono at 1 ohm Kinetik HC1800 under the hood Big three upgrade 0/1 gauge wire I just had a new 250 amp alternator installed. After hooking up the radio my lights STILL dim and looks as though the amp is dipping. Why am I still having this problem? I thought I had gone through all necessary steps but I guess I'm missing something? What is next a second battery? Any help or input greatly appreciated. -CHRIS

Thanks jon but do you know which one fits my 3.0 liter v6 2001 ford windstar?

Thanks again for the replies. I have checked all my grounds and connections it seems like stated above it could be the alternator is made poorly. Can somebody please reccomend me a company that can build me an alternator for my 2001 Ford Windstar Minivan? My amp is now going into protect which leads me to believe I am clipping.

Hey schizzon my alternator was bought from ebay from highampspecialist. It is a 240 amp 12v-14v alternator but I just assume its a no name brand. Next time I drive I will see if they dim over 40. I just assumed with only 2 12s and 1 amp all these power issues would be solved with just a basic upgrade. I never would have thought I would need 100s of dollars worth of electrical equipment.

Hey guys thanks to everyone for the replies. As far as connections go, all my ends are crimped not soldered (working on this), and my ground I am using is the frame where one of the bucket seats go. I scraped the piss out of it to bare metal too. I should be more specific as I only noticed dimming of the headlights as someone mentioned above. I have ordered an Xscorpion voltage readout and when that comes I could understand the problem better. Car audio can be such a headache sometimes ugh lol.

UPDATE: I checked all my wires and everything looked good but when I checked my inline fuse it looked melted a bit on one side and the fuse was blown. I shot over to best buy and purchased the Kicker FHA ALN fuse holder and also bought 2 200 amp ANL fuses. After putting this in everything seems to be much better. I will do the big three upgrade next week when I get my Kicker 0/1 gauge wire. Thanks for all the advice guys! PS. My wires are pc richards brand wires (awful) and my gains are set with a DMM.

Hello everyone just need a little bit of advice if someone could help me out! Here is the scenario. I have a 2001 ford windstar minivan with this done: 2 alpine type rs hifonics brutus 1200 rms 4 guage wire with 60 amp inline fuse NO big three stock alternator Today I switched out my battery and put in a kinetik hc1800. On my way to work I experienced very bad voltage drops to the point the amp cut out. I did not experience this bad of voltage drop with my stock battery. I have money at my disposal and I also don't want to hurt my equipment I just don't know what is the next step?

Wow thanks for everyone's quick responses. I own a DMM only and I bought the Kinetik new. So far i gathered: check connections/ ground Big Three Inline fuse Is 4 gauge wire too small? I'm running at 1 ohm btw.

but this should be pretty fun otherwise. Hello guys my name is Chris and I've been involved in car audio for over 10 years and seen some pretty crazy stuff. Bass boost on the deck maxed, 100 amp fuse in a deck, 20 speakers powered on a deck etc etc. I thought it would be fun if everyone would just pick one of the dumbest and craziest car audio related setup and post it here for laughs...Thanks guys...

Hi guys just wanted to introduce myself to the forum as I am new here. My name is Chris and live on Long Island and I am 25 years old and have been into car audio for about ten years now. I went to school for tech school for Automotve Aftermarket Accessories for 2 years when I was in 11th and 12 grade and became a Mobile Electronics Certified Professional Bronze Level. That has since expired and countless stereo systems later I now have 2 Alpine Type Rs 1242d 12s on a Hifonics Brutus 1200d Monoblock (at 1 ohm) in a box that is 2.25 cubic feet per chamber and tuned to 45 hertz (ported). I am running 1/0 gauge wire with a Kinetik HC1800 under the hood of a 2001 Ford Windstar Minivan. Needless to say I am the only one ever driving in it so I have plenty of space. I have heard many systems including some competition level but never have heard any Fi subwoofers so after countless hours of research I have come to find I want to buy a pair of these sort of as a sample to my van build. I would like to start with buying a pair of 12 inch subwoofers for the box I listed above but keep them within my price budget. Then if I like them I plan to buy a few 18s after money is better. As of now I probably have about 600 to spend on the subwoofers so I was looking into the Fi BL Series 12. Mind you I like SQ but I would prefer SPL as a daily driver. One of my questions would be if the subwoofers would sound ok in a 2.25 per chamber tuned to 45 hertz ported? Anyway like I said Im excited after reading multiple topics here and spending some time lounging. Any insight on anything would be appreciated and if anyone has any questions on how other speakers sound I am quite knowledgeable but other than that I would like to say thanks for everyone letting me join here! -CHRIS