95Honda

After a few years of collaborative effort, passive crossovers are here for the Evil component system. Thank you Aaron, Julian, Vladd, Parker and Sean. This was definitely a team effort. When Aaron approached me with this idea a few years ago I was excited to design a set of passive crossovers that were based on performance first and not price or size. These really do sound great, I am proud of the design and the rest of the team knocked out a great PC board and enclosure. I don't think you can find anything better at this price point. Also, as SSA is a staunch supporter of DIY, standby for more resources to build these yourselves... SSA Evil Passive Crossovers - SSA STORE (soundsolutionsaudio.com) The SAA (soundsolutionsaudio.com)

It was worth it!

Goals?

They will have flatest response on axis if they are a traditional dome. Normally, the closer they are to the driver handling the next band (e.g., midbass) the better they will integrate. I would try aiming them on axis at the intended listening first.

Honestly, it is a crap shoot that way. One of the best ways to set the SSF is to use a signal source that will produce a sine wave. You can use an app or find an online source, Youtube has them too. Find out what your enclosure tuning frequency is (this is the point where cone excursion is lowest and port output is highest). Then play around 5Hz lower or however much it takes to get the woofer to unload and start moving like crazy. Now, with your SSF filter starting at the lowest frequency, turn it up until the woofer starts moving about half as much. BAM! Your SSF is set. If you do it by "looking at the knob numbers" and guessing your actual tuning frequency, you have no idea if it is working as intended...

We’re you guys able to get the original Adire design pdf documents for designs like HE 10.1 and Hurricanes?

As mentioned, cabin gain can play a huge role at your listening position. Can you get a hold of any type of measurement mic so you can measure near field at the enclosure and then at the listening position and see what the difference is?

We’re you guys able to get the original Adire design pdf documents for designs like HE 10.1 and Hurricanes?

Spammer lol ^^^^^ on the flip side, just had a Bimini made and SeaDek put in, gonna be a good summer...

I went ahead and designed some retrofits for a pair of Bazooka wakeboard tower speakers. The crossover took some time but came out decent in the end...

I think for sub I’m going to do a 12” in a standard 4th order vented alignment. I am thinking of pretty stout driver, either one of the zCONs or a PSI platform 4 or 5... I figure I could have around 3ft3 to play with... I still haven’t even turned on the stereo it came with yet... The components look like decent JL drivers...

Yes it is. Just need to figure out what I’m going to put it in. Both cans I designed sounded really good, but I might go back to a higher end 8”. I’ll look and see what is available in March. I also need to look at the boats electrical, there are dual alts and 4 batteries, but the alts are roughly 90 amp i think. JS makes high output marine alts, I might look into those. You are normally at 4K RPM or higher for charging so not really sure about a lot of the car audio alts. I have some homework to do.

350 Mags. 01’ with 240 hrs on it. Not a scratch on the hull, trailer queen...

I bought a 28’ Donzi a few months ago. I’m going to put a tower on it for a decent set of cans I’ll design. I think a 15” or 18” sub in the mid cabin too...

I designed a bigger set using B&C 10 neo coaxs. It was a lot of work to get the crossover right with a low parts count but man, they actually sound really good. The went onto an MB B-52

I'm building a set of passive crossovers to do justice for the SSA Evil midwoofers and silk dome tweeters. This is a no compromise design that uses 48 (!) parts per set. They will be potted in epoxy resin inside ABS enclosures and hard wired with direct connection to the drivers. I have been working with these drivers for a while now and really like them. Install will be in a 1978 F-150 a good friend and I built. The rest of the system will be a SSA 150.4 and a 10" custom built PSI sub.

Lol!

That's my problem, zero time bro!

It's been a fun project for sure. You would have really liked the design phase. I spent literally a 100 hours voicing these and measuring a little over a year ago.. A pair was on a test baffle for about a month. Listening, measuring and tweaking...

2Khz, asymmetric electrical slopes, steeper on the midwoofer.

That is awesome! I had a 78 XLT Ranger addition Bronco about 15 years ago, it was the one that had 8 RE 8s in it if you remember back on SIN days...

We built a fuel injected 429 for it. Pics were before we had the exhaust done...

Yes.^^ Need to do your homework. Also ask yourself why... If it is to save money, it wont happen.

I've been messing around lately with some 15" Drivers David Moore at PSI has been custom building for me to use for a few of the HT designs I have been implementing. I was using a lot of the Parts Express drivers for a while, the Ultimax and Reference series for custom installs, but the prices were going up and my wholesale discount kept seeming to get smaller and smaller. Anyway, David's drivers work well, sound good and measure decent in 3.5 ft3 boxes. Here are some pics of the last few, I have been getting the ones you can see coated with Line-X and the hidden ones just plain MDF. I have been using between 750 and 1000 watts per driver...

Similar to what I used to get with Ascendent and RE and Adire