captaincheesey

I know Dodge Chargers do, and I believe my friend's Volvo S60 has his battery in the rear of the car. It actually makes it a bit more convenient, IMO, to change the battery. And definitely cleaner for the people who hate getting dirt and crud from the engine on their hands.

Correct me if I am wrong, but the chevy venture is a mini-van right?

I will just ask tonight when I go back into work. I know that I get 70% off freight orders, so maybe there is a discount on ground.......anyways, sick driver man. Finally another 8 on the market and one that doesn't cost an arm and a leg.

I work for fedex freight. Any idea if I get some kind of discount on fedex ground since I work for their freight division? And def picking one, or two, of these up this friday.

Well it all the equipment is in my sig except I am running a BXI2610 instead of the RD amp. So for how it's installed, the sub is firing up and the port is firing back. So basically the sub is firing right at the trunk lid. I am thinking about rebuilding the box and firing sub and port into the cabin to help with it, since that should take care of most of the rattle I would think since the pressure would all be getting forced into the cabin. But basically with the design right now I am fucked so some of the closed cell foam kind of lessen the impact at all? Great help. Please spend some time when you make threads to define what your goals are. Perhaps starting with the simple things even like what kind of car it is... <--doesn't have sigs turned on which is rather normal here Didn't know that you had sigs turned off. Ok here is the break down. It is a RE XXX 15 in a roughly 3.5-3.6 cube box before sub displacement. It is sub up port back running off of a BXI2610 in the trunk of a 2002 Grand Prix. My back seats do not fold down, unless I go get some 04+ grand prix backseats which I can modify the brackets and whatnot and make them fold down. All I have is a little section where the back armrest is that folds down and it is down at all times. What else do you need to know? 225 amp alt, kinetik 2400 in the rear. I just put two more layers of deadener on the trunk lid the other day. Note: This problem only seems to be happening at night when it is nice and cool compared to the days. So I wonder if it happens to do with the metal slightly changing due to temperature variations. The trunk is nice and heavy now too due to the deadener, in fact it will not even stay open once you close it slightly.

Blah, well I guess when I get some more cash coming in, it's time to rebuild the box and re-run a bunch of wires. New trunk rebuild in the future. Until then, I need some suggestions to slow the damage to my car. Not a permanent fix, just something to slow it down.

Which is why I am thinking putting some of the open or close cell foam over that. Oh well, I will figure something out. Another layer of the deadener tomorrow, then gonna put some deadener on the doors to use up my bulk pack. I might take out the back seat and get those damn 6x9s out and allow some better air flow.

Ok, yes clipping is bad because acoustically it causes distortion, but it's not the distortion that will blow your speakers. What is blowing your speakers is how clipping works. It has to do with the area under the curve of the sound wave. A square wave has significantly more area under the curve than a sine wave so the clipping is actually pushing your amp to put out a square wave and effectively put out more power. Which is why if you clip an amp that is way underpowered for your speakers it will sound like ass but will not destroy them as quickly as an amp that is perfectly matched up for your subs but is clippped. An O-scope will help your see any clipping happening as well as just having someone with a good ear to hear distortion.

Well it all the equipment is in my sig except I am running a BXI2610 instead of the RD amp. So for how it's installed, the sub is firing up and the port is firing back. So basically the sub is firing right at the trunk lid. I am thinking about rebuilding the box and firing sub and port into the cabin to help with it, since that should take care of most of the rattle I would think since the pressure would all be getting forced into the cabin. But basically with the design right now I am fucked so some of the closed cell foam kind of lessen the impact at all?

///M5 what do you suggest? Like what kind of product do you suggest I purchase to help out with the problem? And a wall isn't an option seeing as I am running this in a sedan and walls in sedans in my opinion just look stupid. Would possibly flipping the box around to aim the port at the cabin help a bit seeing as the air from the port will have an easier path into a more open space? I have been thinking about rebuilding my box to build it inside the trunk so I can get enough height to put the sub on the front of the box. So possibly just rebuild and have the sub and port firing into the cabin. That will force all of the pressure towards the cabin instead of the trunk lid. But yeah, ///M5, help on what kind of foam material to use would be awesome. Like the second skin luxury liner closed cell foam, is that what you are referring to or something else?

Well there isn't much I can do with the foam seeing as there is foam weather stripping all along the edge of the trunk and it is still slapping. I will try tightening the hinges though. I just don't want to fuck anything up too bad that I end up honestly destroying my trunk lid. Especially when I am putting extra power on the sub once I get my other amp in there.

Is that the final impedance or is that the impedance per amp? Because you might be able to get away with the .5 taking in box rise as the final and def if that is the impedance per amp.