Doug McCambridge

If u have the electrical it should run just fine at .5 "but" some people have experienced problems doing so, I haven't yet, n hopefully never do

All depends how big of a yellow top u can fit under the hood, but even with 2k watts IMO id still have at least 1 in the rear also, never hurts to have the power if ya need it

As he said, we need to know how big of a box will fit through ur trunk opening or if ur backseats tilt down, the more space u have to work with the better off ull be as far as getting a box tuned the way u want, if u like SPL but love the lows id try n run a little higher depending how much u like the lows for instance 34-36, as I said my previous box was tuned high 30s possibly even low 40's granted it was loud as f*** but couldn't get anywhere near the lows like I wanted I am very satisfied being tuned at 32hz, if u listen to any slowed/bass enhanced or decaf I recommend tunning around lower 30s for optimal output, just be sure to set ur ssf properly cause it could cause alot of damage being tuned lower then it should be everyone recommends 3hz difference 32hz set ssf to 29hz

I wouldn't say the bigger the better its more so staying within certain specs of what makes the sub requires to stay optimal, as Alton said, in order to helpu with a design we need ur "max" specs n what u wanna tune to, depending on ur mmusic u listen to will determine what u wanna tune to, if ur going for SPL u would wanna tune higher, rap/decaf right around 31-34 is pretty decent, I have 2 12 bls my first box was tuned pretty high about 39hz built a new box tuned to 32 n there is a very big difference on the lows!

Alright thanks, Alton I've also read about the whole port being half as in my design if its a little higher its fine I'm slightly under 32hz anyways

Received my 2 fi BL 12s yesterday, I'm very satisfied with em but I believe they will get a lot louder in a different box design, I currently have a 34w x 15h x 20d "maximum size box that'll fit" with a slotted port on each side of the subs, I'm unsure on length of port its been 3 months since I built it, believe im tuned around 34hz, I'm running 2 1500's strapped "1ohm per amp" n 2 yellow tops, anyone willing to design a box that's no bigger then the dimensions above as far as tuning I'm thinkin 32hz I listen to rap music n demo with decafs any help is highly appreciated

anyone willing to review this box sketchup? to big? to small? To much port area? for what im running, 2 1500rms strapped 2 D2 BL 12's 2 yellow tops HO alt. rap/decaf music lookin for at least 140db, pretty sure im over that right now but wont know for sure till metered next weekend previous box is tuned to high looking for better output/better lows as far as bracing i think im gonna use 2 ready rods 1 in each side dead center or just 1 all the way but will that mess with my port? im thinkin a 3/4in rod

Is it a mono amp? U could be causing a lot of problems running 2 different subs, the alpine is DVC but here's the question, is the Polk audio DVC or SVC? Personally I would only run 1 or the other

Find better grounds for h/u and amp it will solve your feedback issue, I highly doubt it would be a bad rca ground in the amp itself, lights dimming are you sure the sub/subs are wired correctly? Get ahold of a volt meter and check voltage drop at amp as everyone else has suggested, we can't quite help if you don't do things that are suggested for more help, replacing batt up front will do lots of good things if it is a few years old, also set your gains with a dmm you should NOT need bass boost at all How to properly set your amplifier gains using a DMM Step 1: Determine the RMS output of one channel of your amplifier and the rated RMS input of your speakers/subwoofers you will be using on that channel. Select the lower of the two for using this chart http://db.tt/ZiZA5Yyq Step 2: Match the impedance (ohms) you have on one channel of your amplifier to the column on the chart. Step 3: Turn your amplifier gain all the way down. Step 4: Disconnect all speakers/subwoofers from the amplifier Step 5: Insert the leads of the multimeter in to the channel you are setting (if bridging an amplifier use the terminals you would be using) Step 6: Set the multimeter to ac volts Step 7: Turn on the head unit, zero out all EQ settings, turn off all filters (low pass/high pass), and make sure loudness is off. Step 8: Play a 50hz or 60hz test tone Step 9: Set the volume to 75%-80% of the maximum volume on your head unit. Step 10: Start playing the appropriate test tone for subwoofers, 1000hz for mids/highs Step 11: Slowly turn the gain until you obtain the voltage from the chart Step 12: Turn off the head unit, unhook the multimeter, hook up your speakers/subwoofers Step 13: Adjust EQ to desired settings without distortion/clipping its that simple

Every stereo ive touched blue with white strip is remote wire Also by looking at your picture you have the little blue tag P.Cont "power control"

Used a different dmm n everything checks out perfect unsure what the deal is with mine but problem is solved now thanks for the help guys

Have two D2 Fi BL's each coil reads 1.7 like it should, I have them wired series/parallel for 2 ohm load being amps are strapped, when I disconnect sub wires from amp terminals to check the ohm load I'm at 1ohm technically I would be at .8 due to dmm is .2 off, I have each coil ran to back of box with 8 bolts/wing nuts, for easy load change, shouldnt my load be higher with box rise/resistance of bolts n everything else that comes into play, I triple checked all wiring from top to bottom pulled subs out several times checking coils/wires and everything is 100% right anyone have an idea

Alright I'll try that

Yes I'm at 1.8 per set of bolts

Its direct connection wrapped with electrical tape to wires, here's a pic of the backside with jumpers http://db.tt/c1Tbs9gV I'll pull the subs out when I get home n take more pictures of the inside

Yes I can but it'll be a little bit have a appointment in 20 minutes will upload them after

I did that 3x today already checkin everything n everything is correct

Yes sir

That's exactly how there wired

I guarantee it'll fit but knock 1in of the depth so 15h x 36w x 31d

Alright, makes a little more sence, with that all said are you willing to sketch me out a box 15h x 36w x 32d tuned at 32hz if I had the trunk space I would go bigger but kinda impossible without a different veichle

That's good to know, n I'm workin with him the best I can if only my trunk was bigger :/ Edit: using Torres calculator that's what its talkin me for net volume

1 Fi BL 12 for optimal performance is 2.4cu.ft at 32hz according to the posts for box recomendations with my measurements I have net volume 7.9cubes without port how wouldn't that be a big enough box? Wouldnt 4.8cubes tunes at 32hz be optimal? I'm no box expert, how big of a difference does the port area/port area per foot make? What's recommended? I know the bl's call for 2-16 square inches of vent area per cubic foot of volume, can't I achieve that with my measurements and still have enough NET volume?

Trunk space is pretty tight I can't go any higher 15 is max, width 36 is max, my max depth "could be" 32 would prefer no deeper then 25 due to limited space of amp location but if I need to move them its not that big of a deal id prefer to have the subs at best performance Edited width just measured everything to its max

Just got email from Fi it's just a FedEx error