ncc74656

i have a client with a 6 battery bank in the bed and dual factory battery locations up front. he has 2 alternators and each alternator is going to its side battery so the driver side alt is going to the driver side battery and passenger alt going to the passenger side battery. i dont know - does having 2 point of voltage input going to two different batteries in an electrical system present any kind of issue? e.g. should these alternators be rewired to both go to a single positive terminal on one battery or is status quoe good enough? we are pushing close to 1200A at full tilt and are considering a 3rd alternator in an after market bracket (current two are in factory locations). (power stroke)

i feel like you are over read or over complicating? I'm not asking about amperage or wiring sizing or anything like that. rather I'm asking that if in the same way you can get grounding differential that can cause induced noise in a system by having grounds spaced all over the vehicle could the same thing or does the same thing occur with the power input feeds from the charging system? e.g. if you have two alternators that deliver power to different points in the system could that cause a difference in voltage potential that could cause erroneous functionality in either the charging or electrical system? rather is there a "standard" practice for multiple charging systems to be routed to a single point or is it acceptable to have them connected to different batteries in the system. it makes sense to me that routing one alt to the other and then to one battery would be the best way to run the wire but ive never looked into this so i thought id ask

ok we are getting off track here, the question is simple: in a multi battery configuration with multiple charging points should all the charging devices be going to a single connection point in the electrical system OR can they be connection at multiple junction locations with out ill effect?

no, none of this is factory wiring, the client has rewired with 4/0 gage and added his own mechman after market alt to the second factory location where one did not exist before. he has one mechman with power going to the passenger side battery and the second mechman is going with power to the drivers side battery, they do not go to a central point. i have run 3 alts in my truck and always had them going to a single charging distro block and then to a single battery, i never considered what possible problems (if any) would be present if multiple alternators were going to different points in the charging system.

ok so having each alternator go to its own battery is a non issue then, no chance for any voltage differential to cause issues in the charging system.

i have a 2nd post similar to this but not as on point so ive made this one to nail down some questions and make things more searchable in the future. coworker was setting gains on an amp the other day and what he was doing got me thinking. if you follow mecp and set gain off a 40hz tone wouldn't the power output of that amp change drastically if the box were tuned to say 29hz or 55hz (something 1/2 or more octave above/below the frequency you are generating? or transversely if the box were tuned at 40hz...) the thermal handling of both amp and sub (assuming that's one thing you do such a procedure to keep in check) would change drastically while playing music. so wouldn't you have to select a (few) particular frequencies to run this o scope test on in order to be at all effective in such a manor? rather than a generic 40hz tone? second is source of tone: ive always been of the school of thought that you use customers music and sources when setting up their radio, so you can hear the distortion the customer will be putting out and you can (maybe) prevent him smoking his subs/speakers by turning shit down and epoxying over the gain/bass boost controls. however the coworker was using Bluetooth to a customers boss radio off a 50hz youtube video for his test tone... reguardless of what one is trying to accomplish here there is no way it could be accurate given the source, i don't know what kind of compression youtube would have at 50hz but I'm sure its pretty crap quality. i don't see any reason to have done this procedure, it was a total waste of time right? you ought to be able to use a test tone and o scope to know what to total maximum output of your equipment from input to output is. so you can have a pretty good idea if your trying to give right up to the limit of thermal handling but not to the point of damage? this could be done with a voltage measurement and some math tho right? no scope needed? i thought of another use that i have not done before while working on my engine over the weekend - i had a fueling issue caused by noise on a PWM sensor to the ECM and found/fixed this with my scope. one should be able to see interference down a wire run, say RCA's going too close to an EMI source or ac ripple going into an amps power section and with this you should be able to ensure maximum audio quality and know if you do or do not need more expensive/shielded rca's or more voltage on the rca's. again ive never seen nor heard of ANYONE using a scope this way in my shop or others in my area but i cant wrap my head around why not? any input there?

i have been instructed that you can not use multiple mid bass drivers (or multiple midrange/tweets either) because it is not possible to setup proper staging with this configuration. staging being set via the dsp to push the sound stage past the physical limits of the vehicle. is it true that multiple drivers are next to impossible to setup a sound stage on?

in the industry and training you get, you are told you must use an oscope to ensure clean signal from your source and to match your gains to the input voltage. you also use this on the output of your amps to find max output. you can not setup a car audio system with out taking these steps. i don't buy into this anymore, i don't know why this is taught but i do know that it does not prevent blown speakers, it does not ensure better quality audio by itself, and it seems a waste of time and money to buy the multi thousand dollar o scopes required for this

you know what ive been thinking about... some how in the audio industry we have gotten to the point of selling a 400W amp for a 400W sub, always trying to match the sub to amp rms. then we take the o scopes and meters to try and get max output from the amp with out any real consideration for voltage amps going to the voice coils. way back when i worked with home audio we would sell amps that had head room, 150w amps with 80 or 100w speakers and we would set them up by playing music and some times using microphones to setup time alignment. we never had them maxed out tho, in car audio we are always trying to push distortion and max out power but i never did this in home audio. i also do not ever remember anyone talking about going from tv to receiver to speakers to measure things with scopes. i think most of the blown subs i see at work are from pushing the subs past their thermal capacity because we always setup the equipment to operate at 100+% of its rated values.

i need some guidance here. I'm looking at a 2 way 10" mid bass with horn setup, the 10's I'm looking at seem to go up to around the 800-1200hz range so the horn needs to handle around 1k and up. i found some limited information from 07 on how a setup would work and from what i gather i want the horns positioned under the dash and firing parallel to the floor? with some processing i should be able to raise the sound stage up to about dash level? i also read that the width will more than likely be less than the distance between the a pillars if i don't add any other tweeters and that the horns would benefit from a 16khz and up super tweet? ive never done a horn build before and even been told that horns are terrible to use in vehicles and very directional however what i have read thus far seem to contradict this... I'm also having issues even finding horns... i think i want the pa speaker style horn (rectangle) but I'm only finding circle (bullet style) "horns" so I'm kinda swimming in poor information here

i was looking at 3 ways at first but was directed towards two ways and then horns so i thought id check them out. ill do some more research, maybe i don't end up going with horns after all. we will see what i find

so lets assume that i am fine with a stupid amount of work and effort here. assume this with the stipulation that i want a LOUD and clear stereo that is well above average on both counts. I'm open to everything from 3 way to 2 way horns and anything in between. i even read about some people doing 5 ways with horns to keep the sound stage outside of the a pillars. most of this i have never worked with before but i want a system that is more clear with better transient response and far louder than the next 10 guys

i was thinking about concerts ive been to and i have never seen anyone using a scope to setup the stage, its always using the mics/instruments through the system and adjusting off the sound. got me thinking about all this more

so damping factor as i understand it is the ability to control the sub once it starts playing something, to keep its movement in check. i see numbers all over the board between amp manufactures so I'm lead to believe its kinda like contrast ratios on TV's where there isn't an industry standard to measure by, is that correct? at my work training i have been told that you want at least 500 damping factory to be effective an controlling any speaker over 10" in size but this dosent make sense to me and given its coming from a rep of a company that lists all their amps around 500 damping... well... can anyone lay this out a bit simpler or provide some "trusted" literature on the topic?

I'm absolutely up for making an enclosure, ive built many for subs and home but ive never built such a thing into a car door before so that's my only challenge. I'm fine with it taking a few attempts tho so what ever. just need to decide on drivers and where they need to be placed

i cant seem to find ANY worth while information on the Rockford 8 and 10" mid bass drivers on their website. no frequency curves, t/s specs, they look like parts express PA speakers to me... does anyone have an opinion on these things? just want to know if i should even consider them I'm shopping for midbass for my doors in a 3 way active setup, I'm considering JL C7 6.5, ZR 8's, hertz 7" mili's or their 10" SPL. (really just in pre planning stages here) my truck is loud, i like my music loud, i want acceptable quality and clarity in music but have no intention of ever going anywhere near iasca...

i have always been told horns are terrible in car audio - ive never looked into them because of this. where is a good place to read about the differences and get some information on such a setup that is reputable?

I'm planning out a build that is using lots of Rockford parts, the 360 is an old dsp right? has anyone got experience with this guy and is it worth buying these days when you have new tech like JL fix, aerospaces, or helix? the aerospace allows for all pass filters i could use to help fix phasing issues, what other DSP's allow for this?

sorry i missed those speakers. yea i have used peerless before and thought they sounded great... i didn't see them on partsexpress tho as they are listed as subwoofers and not woofers so i had them excluded from my search. they have a fairly low f3 which i thought would be undesirable if used in a 2 way system (although if I'm sealing an enclosure with them perhaps that wont matter as much?) the graph free air response is pretty smooth through the midbass range. ill look into those guys a bit more and see what winisd says. i like the power handling and they look beefy as frig...

its distortion, muddy frequencies that sound like audio passing through water

can you give me an example of a driver you would use in such a situation? just so i can see its specs and features to kinda know what IS and what isn't?

i think i know very well what i want. i don't need instaine audio quality but i don't want shit quality. i don't want it to sound like the trucks with 5 sets of bullet tweets and subs... i want the full range of speakers and audio in the truck so that i can hear every note and all of the music. basically i want lossless audio to sound better than an mp3 in my truck and not be limited by the install or audio equipment. i do want loud. systems i have heard with krx3's, hertz legends, illusion, etc. have not been loud enough and have not had enough bass. i want louder and i want more bass but i don't want to sacrifice too much quality

thing is there not, most are close to the same or a bit cheaper. as an example the 1600.00 Rockford 2500.1 amp is 550 and the 900.00 hertz 7" is one hundred 10.00. that's why its so hard to decide to go after other speakers than car audio... if the prices were retail there is no way i would condier them. such as the JL 13w7's or the focal krx3's are priced insane.. i just cant wrap my head around what could possibly be so expensive on those speakers, they do not sound 1800.00 better than a 200.00 set of speakers

I'm looking into 2 way drivers atm, trying to ascertain what i would need to get what I'm after. gotta admit I'm having a hard time finding a large mid range, i could go down to a 7" or so and find a decent pairing but i have the idea that a 7" wouldn't have enough bass for me... maybe I'm wrong? my coworker has a hertz 7" in his doors and they sound amazing for his setup but he still dosent have the volume I'm after (best midbass ive ever heard actually, i just want it to be much louder)

I'm looking into 2 way setups as well now. since i can get stupid low prices from car audio companies can any of you think of a sub that would work as a midbass? kicker, audison, focal, hertz, Rockford, infinity, jbl, pioneer, illusion audio, and mosconi, kenwood, clarion - are the brands i have to choose from