ncc74656

yea i was looking at some of the AQ amps that can be strapped... thing is i already have half hte power i need and these vipers are strapable so.... yea... i got to play with a 18" BTL today but the guy only had 2 slash 1000/1 JL's. wired up 1 per coil but they could barely move the thing... made me realize just how much power you need to fully max out some of these subs. hell even mine starts to clip long before the sub shows any sign of maxing out and im sure this viper is dishing a good 2800W into it.

got it. i would love to be able to find anohter 2500.1... baring htat i suppose i could get a second SP4 now and just buy a 6KW 1ohm stable amp and run with it...

i thought the orion 2500D was a 1ohm amp for max power where as the DEI viper was a 2 ohm max power amp by PPI?

the viper 2500 is a PPI amp that DEI simply put a new case on right? what PPI amp is it based off of and could i find one of those to link up? from what i have heard i dont think DEI changed any of the guts...

i had issues with my batteries not charging fully in my truck when i had the 240A alt from mechman. my truck would not start many mornings due to this and my voltage would also often drop when driving down the road. the stereo had no bearing on or off to the batteries not fully charging. i upgraded to the 380A and now have no issues at idle like i once did and my batteries stay fully charged. i dont know why as i expected the idle performance to be worse but its much better with the larger alt.

I have the 2ohm model, I want to strap them into my subs

so in torres i put a 23.5" length into the calcs. this gives me a 35.07hz tune with a port dimension of 23.5X4.75" and 7.07 cubic. the physical port length is 17.25 according to torres. i need to verify what my port actually is and i feel a bit confused by the measuring. if i measure the port down teh center wich is how i understand the correct measurement to me then i get 20 and 3/8" in length, then i measure horizontally to the inside of the MDF sheet wich is 3 and 1/8". so that makes the port 23.5" long down the center. if i measure on the face of the wood itself i get 18.75" long and accounting for 3/4" thickness of the port itself. on top of that it makes it 2.375" longer on all accounts if i take 1/2 of the port width for "end correction". what measurement is the correct way to express the desired length? the baffles are 1.5" thick and all other wood is .75" thick. the ultimate question is: do i need to add or subtract anything from this port to make a 35hz tune? here are pictures: in the picture the horizontal length does not take itno account the 1.5" thick baffel http://imgur.com/a/DTYGB

yea, I think that's close to it. the total length by 12 volt port calculator is 26.3" of port required. once im done with work ill take a closer look at the pictures. I just want to make sure I hit the frequency im aiming for. having the box depth at just the right amount to make the port bend/calculations some what dicey for me... I may just shorten the box, widen it and make it easier on the computations.

all things being equal if the "port" that the woffer sees is the correct length factoring in end correction would it matter if the port bends or not? all else being equal if the box were say 5" shorter and thus the port bent would that have any effect on the tuning? edit for context, this is the guide im using to measure port length: it wont let me past the URL but its a link to "8 basic diagrams to measure port length"

i have never heard of a shop simply covering up a prebuilt box but in either case myt question is this: so I measure down the center of the port and if the port is the same distance from the back of the box as it is wide then 1/2 of the port width is where the measurement stops. then from there you measure from that point out horizontally until you reach the end of the internal port. so in this instance I have a 3.125" length from this center port to the inside edge of the port as it does not have any extension on it. now if I subtract say 1" from this port it will then be 5.75" from the back wall which would then make the port 17" long plus a 2.375" port correction. thus removing 4.125" of port by removing 1" of physical port. is this correct?

I ordered a recone for my SP4 18 a month and 3 weeks ago now, last communication I had with FI was about a month ago. they must be very backed up to not be able to get emails answered. so far I have 5 emails over 5 weeks unanswered.

ok so he had orilies test it on their bench and they found that it was putting out about 60A at max power. Im not sure how orilies testers are tho, never used them?

ill pull it in and get some pics but its just thrown together atm. still waiting on a recone from FI so ive got my computer speakers sub hooked up in there and I have not done anything to my 10" door speaker install from when I installed them in the menards parking lot over a year ago...

I am working through my front stage as time allows and have some questions. i was told "told" that a mid range speaker should not be placed more than the radial distance of its counter part's (high range) cone diameter apart. if it is then the phase should be reversed. is this not a situation that one would use time alignment and perhaps a bit of phase adjustment (not just flip it 180) to compensate for any audio impurities with a tweeter and mid range placed a good deal apart? secondly: I just got my new Hertz 25 tweeters today, they sound very nice outside of the truck. tomorrow i intend to hook them up and this will leave only mid bass to contend with. at present the tweets will be in the factory A pillar location with a slight mod to direct them more at the driver. the mid range are fountek 3" neos that are in sealed fiber glass pods just below the window opening of the doors, they are angled to face the driver respectively. the mid bass are still the 10" crescendos as i have not selected - nor do i know exactly what i need to select as of yet for a replacement. what amp would you all recommend for a 110W ish output at 8ohm? i was looking at kenwoods 4 channel bridged, anyone ever use the exalon series? my thought was given that its doing bass the lower spec and higher thd might not matter to much? save a few bucks?

I just got off the phone with mechman, their alt turn on is 300rpm so I doubt that is not turning on at all but they did say the added stress to the engine may be causing below nominal engine RPM's and thus less power comes out at idle. seems to make a bit of sence I suppose but id like to know how to remedy that.

reading it now, thanks

I was on the phone with mechman for about an hour during his order. we got the smallest pully that was safe for his car and the 220 should be the alt that is able to produce decent power at high and low RPM's. I have the alt that sacrifices power at low RPM and provides max power only when spooled to the upper ranges. his alt should produce considerably more power than mine does at idle. difference is I drive a diesel that red lines at 3K where as his car is a whole nother ball bark. I was under the impression that the 220A alt would produce more than factory at idle and cruise speed?

I was recommending he install a group 31 diehard platinum marine battery in the trunk. has bolt on stud terminals already and is rather cheap online.

there is not a second battery, it is the factory battery up front. yes the alternator swap is the only change that I am aware of to the system.

after having things installed for about a week I absoutly love the sound of the founteks but the tweets are very lack luster. I expected more out of them considering what I had read and was told. I also now realize that they have a built in cross over at 1.8Khz? I do not understand why a manufacture would sell a raw tweeter with a cross over in it? suppose that goes more towards what you were saying with them not being intended for the application. the system sounds worlds better than it did before but it still has a ways to go to be sure. the Mini DSP remote turn on power board came in the mail not long ago and I must say that I greatly prefer the mini dsp over the Deh 80's functions. I actually prefer configuring from a large GUI on a laptop vs the single din screen in the dash. the crachendos actually don't do a bad job at mid bass but their install is so jacked that being able to gauge there potential is next to impossible.

I have found a good deal of people who have written detailed reviews of the founteks in 2 and 3 way system - some even on this forum. that is a large part of what made me choose those for the mid range. their response curve charts also show very stable performance through out the frequencies i had intended to cross them over at. while researching those speakers it dawned on me why what i was told about choosing cross over points based on dead zones in the vehicle would not work - just as you said it would not. the published specs on the hertz tweeters is primarily what i used to determine if those would work with the founteks and it was my belief that they would based on their frequency/phase curve. I do not know where it is atm but a user on here had posted a phase graph of my crachendos a few months back and it showed what looked more like mountain ranges than a response curve. when searching for drivers i looked for drivers that had good feedback, decently flat response curves, lower price points, higher efficiency, and for mid range a smaller cone size. I have a set of alpine R component's as well but have not installed them yet. i wanted to compare the two systems. I am reading what you guys are saying and trying to build off your advice as much as possible. the purpose here is not to say i know better, its not to say that your advice is not respected. it is to say that i wish to learn more about 2 and 3 way systems and am choosing to use my vehicle as that test platform.

this driver was not random, the wrong driver perhaps but it was selected after reading spec sheets, recommendations of other installers, reviews on line, and what i thought was a good pairing to the mid range wich i had picked up that also had very good reviews and mostly for the same reasons i listed above. the mid range speakers are worlds clearer than the 10" crachendos so i do not feel that was a bad purchase in and of itself. if for no other reason than simply to take up less space in the doors... at the least by the end of hte day i will know exactly what a poor mix of drivers sounds like. worst case ill sell the product i dont need and buy new stuff. i have a pair of headphones now so i intend to compare from those to the trucks system while playing an array of music.

im going to install them tomorrow and do what i can with them. once thats done i will figure out what i feel is missing and look at dayton audio tweeters for what i think is the correct driver and post up on here to get your input. perhaps i will install these and be pleased with the sound? are we thinking the tweeters them selves are so poor in build/design that they will not do what i am expecting regardless of install or are we saying its assumed that due to the install method paired with the build of the tweeter will result in a poor audio experience?

the HT25 is just a tweeter is it not? designed i suppose for car audio more than home audio but isnt the term "car audio" rather subjective in its own right? can not some car audio speakers be used in an active setup when not paired with a passive cross over? just as some pro audio speakers are well suited to active systems or specifically and properly built passive cross overs? i bought these tweeters with the following thoughts. they have a very linear response curve with in the frequencies of intended use, they are decently efficient so as to not require a massive amp to power them, they are inexpensive compared to others, they are a silk dome wich is the sound type i was going for, they are the proper size for the setup i have, they have very good reviews and the hertz speakers i have heard sounded excellent to me.

its quite difficult to explain exactly what they sound like. if i cross the crachendos over any higher than about 500hz i get piercing from the speakers that sound quite distorted. it sounds very much like a mid range that is playing free air and you are sitting on a horizontal plane with it. so you hear everything coming from both the front and back of the speaker. the HT25 is what i bought after a great deal of research at work and on my own accord on websites. the speaker is listed as 93db, not 107. the beaming that i hear is from high vocals out of the founteks. presently i have no high range xover on them as i removed my broken tweeters. if i sit in the passenger seat i hear less robustness than if i sit in the driver side. from what i understand any frequency being produced with a wave length shorter than 3" will be directional. edit: i should point out that the doors are covered with sound deadener so all the holes are "covered" there is no additional sealing in the doors. this is more of a moot point i feel however as the speakers themselves have a 3" thick doubled up plate of wood acting as the baffle to the 10". these are screwed to the door and sound deadedner is covering them and the gaps between the wood and door. the window track is also spaced back 2 inches to allow clearance to the speakers. I do not know where to begin trying to "fix" this install aside from just buying smaller speakers..... the install is original from about a year ago when i bought the speakers.