hispls

Well,As I mentioned here. I did get a chance to hook up the second SAZ 3000D today. I measured a nominal 3 ohm load with each coil series and each woofer parallel to eachother. Anyway in theory there would be something to gain (stability if nothing else) running these subs strapped to the 3 ohm load. Initial testing reveals noticeable gain in output and in SQ. BUT there's a nasty engine noise from the subs now. Seems to not be effected by the gain. Both amps connected to the same battery (in the trunk) with <3ft lengths of #1/0 guage. resting at 12.6V car off (total 3 batteries in car). RCA is a 1.5ft piece of high qualtiy patch cable. Now if I ONLY remove the speaker leads, and move the main source RCA to either amp both run dead quiet. Any ideas of a fix for this? I would really like to keep the pair of these for the extra power and to run them in a more stable impedence. I'm also planning to get a 3 ohm TC LMS driver that I would like to have these two strapped into for playing around with so being able to drive 4KWish into a 3 ohm load (WITHOUT noise) is now my goal.

I love smoking tobacco but got sick of paying the taxes so I stopped early this year as a tax protest. I just think of 9$ a pack and 8.5$ of it goes straight to the state/feds. That's a really big tax that I can just opt out of. Switched to Swedish snus (General Exstra Sterk FTW). Delicious tobacco and tax free from Sweden.....saves me a ton of money, can have one in at all times and still costs me < 2$ a day. Same spirit as the colonists that started drinking coffee to avoid the tea tax. To be honest if they'd drop the cigarette taxes I'd buy a pack right now. Sometimes smoke a hookah (drug free), but that's rather a production so only if I have company.

Update. Picked up a new alternator and took my old one into a local shop that re-builds.... Sure enough old alt has a smoked diode in the rectifier and with the new one there isn't a hint of noise. Dunno if this'll help someone sometime but just throwing it out there. Having the old alt re-built so I have a backup when I smoke this one.

Statistically the Monday after "black Friday" is the biggest online shopping day of the year. If you guys can get any vendors to offer anything special it would do well to be extended through Monday.

Really you should be more concerned about how much space you have to work with. Buy subs that'll function the way they're intended in the space you have. I'd also suggest while you have a small sealed box, play around with aiming and placement of the box/woofer in the trunk and you'll probably find what sounds best and yeilds best output. I've built boxes with that just didn't word with the accoustics of the car and were outperformed by half size/half the number of drivers in a better position. The point is, don't paint yourself into a corner where you have sub(s) that can not be made to perform well in your trunk.

....... Not complaining as I know how swamped Stephen must be, still.....agonizing is a perfect description. I'll take solace that I'll have mine before the international guys, but probably not too quickly since I'm total opposite side of the country.

I promise you will NOT run out of X-max either way if your purpose is SPL (40-50hz range). You will be limited mostly by thermal power handling. If you run out of excursion you either need to use a subsonic filter or have a box with LOW tuning or variable tuning.

Dunno if anyone cares, but my initial 2 cents is that if anyone is on the fence about getting some LMS drivers I'd say go for it. These have more output at 30hz than my TC2K 15's. Crazy excursion and very nice sounding. Drawback would be large-ish box requirements for the size driver.

Picking up some 12" LMS 4K's (have one now, the other should be along this week). Just wondering I know they seem to use the same style motor/basket/surround and svc LMS 3 ohm coil. Looking for some input on real world application from someone who has done some testing in differnt alignment boxes with this style driver.

Just got my trunk repaired this week. Will attempt to get them in this weekend and post pics/review.

In the manual (in cm I believe). Did you get a chance to get my bolt shipped?

It is not a resistor that needed to be swapped out. It needs to be cut, and if you had to swap it out, it would be very difficult as it is a very small resistor. Steve can send you a .pdf file of which resistor to cut, should you chose to do so. Here is an explanation of the problem, (it is not really a problem at all or a design flaw), that I received from Steve yesterday. Dear Bill, I have heard this and there is a fix if the turn on "pop" is too loud. Most customers are happy due to the fact that when they turn the system/amplifier on there is always some music playing at that time. The system powers up at the last volume setting. Under this condition you are not able to hear any noise. Attached is a PDF with instructions on how to modify the Leviathan to be less sensitive to power up. The protection circuit was designed to prevent the amplifier from turning on if a high signal level was present. Interesting, actually a byproduct of a protection circuit. Getting my trunk repaired this week then new subs...fortunately I have enough going on to not be going crazy waiting.

Come on first wave! 2 digit serial number....get!

Indeed it was the pre-order stuff only. Hell if it were me, I'd just have him ship me the resistor and swap it out myself.

You forgot Lanzar in your poll (and a few others). Plenty more in the gallery here....will post more.

Paid

Will settle up tomorrow. Meanwhile someone rear-ended me and my trunk will not open. Gotta get this squared away by the time these amps ship.

Can't believe I pissed away money on other amps a month before these finally came out

When they start smelling funny it's time to back off! Metal cones can get pretty hot. Totally depends on the sub though. Depending on the glues and type/size of coil(s) used I immagine some can get really hot and not be in danger.

Way overkill. Please drop me a link/pics when you're done. I've re-built the trunk of my 01 camry a bunch of times and I find it's an accoustic nightmare....not to be Mr. Doom and Gloom but it's the worst car for accoustics I've ever owned.

I'd advise against it in that spot. Even if you had that chamber sealed off airtight, the metal is just NOT thick enough to handle much and it'll sound like ass. Best bet is to build a box to roughly fit, then if you like cut something to finish/fit over the top to make it appear that way. If you really really wanted to do any of those, you'd be into a few hundred bux worth of fiberglass to tighten and reinforce things. Very similar trunk to Lincoln Towncar (which I used to have). I did a similar thing with a LOT of fiberglass and wood, ended up doing bandpass ported through the rear deck. Was a HUGE project and worked fairly well. Not sure if I'd do it again if I had the same car though.

Possibly failed because of the paint on the cone? my 2K is taking a BEATING and JB weld is holding strong. (did you run a bead on both sides of the cone?)

So please MTV....pimp my ride!!!

2 kronos for low would be 2KW if you had 4 ohm loads. That's generally plenty for most folks. Don't forget the difference between 1KW, and 2kw, and 2kw and 4kw is ONLY 3db on a good day. Could probably gain as much by re-building your box more than likely.