hispls

I have a TC2K 15" that looked EXACTLY like this. Bottomed out hard off of turn-on pop from faulty head unit for the original dent, then this full rip happened a couple weeks later. Repaired mine with JB weld and it's been holding up to some massive power for nearly a year now (hint, inverted mounting and you won't even see this!). IMO 3 layers of glass won't be as light as a single bead of JB-weld along the tear, but let us know how it works out!

Then you aren't getting 3k out of that amp anyways, especially if you haven't supercharged your electrical. If you haven't and you set your gains to 3k I wouldn't expect the sub to live, but that would be the fault of the gain setting and not that the sub can't take 3kW. Not sure why you'd want to throw 3k at it anyways. Even if you set your gain at 2k your ears will NOT be able to tell the difference in output. It will be measurable, but not audible. What makes you say that amp won't put out 3k of clean power? I realize my electrical isn't the best in the world, but I've got more than enough alternator power, just need a little more on the battery side. Agreed that amp probably WON'T do 3KW. I highly doubt that real world you'll keep operating voltage high enough for that for more than a fraction of a second. AND the difference between 3KW and 2KW would likely only be barely noticeable without a meter. If you tune your box high (mid to high 30's) you will get a LOT more output in useable frequencies. Big boxes with Big ports are efficient. Basically your 2 types of failure are thermal and mechanical. Thermal will likely happen >40hz and mechanical < 40hz. Low tuned box or smaller sealed boxes will protect against mechanical failure, but small sealed is enefficient overall and low tuned is inefficient in the higher frequencies and you'll likely run more power to things (risking thermal failure). Of course you can protect against mechanical failure by using a subsonic filter if you tune high or use a large sealed box. SO my suggestion it tune high in a large box with as much port area as you can fit and use a subsonic filter to cut off the stuff below tuning. Personally I tune low for useful program material in movies and organ music, but in 98% of music you'll NEVER notice not having <30hz. A GOOD 18" sub on 2KW shoud be painfully loud in a good efficient box.

I promise I could destroy almost anything with 1500W if it was a contest. Use your head and you'll be fine, plenty of guys serve up big power to them, it's all about knowing it's limits, building a proper box so you don't NEED to push compression to get your desired output, proper crossover use, and backing off at teltale signs of stress.

Sent deposit for Orangelss (from DIYMA) 150$ for: 1x Cronos and 1X leviathan

Use 2 15" PR's MINIMUM. Volume is the same as a ported box just you don't need to worry about losing the 2-3 cubes in port volume.

I saw a single Fi 10 do 146-147 this summer. Doubt it was a terribly linear/musical sounding box. edit.....probably had a lot of G's

I'd try to rear-fire both. If you are brave cut away as much of that steel as you can, you need a bigger hole to get the deebeez through to the cabin area! As the first reply said, there's no way to tell without testing and I've found often the frequency response changes along with overal output depending on placement of box/driver/ports...so you may have different variations giving you more or less output at different frequencies and possibly even the one with somewhat less output will sound more musical. I keep a small test box to get an idea of sub aiming/placement that I can move around and test before I build something that is total shit, but even then you can't be sure.

I think the folks who pre-ordered through Stephen may have theirs very soon (if not allready). I was actually just trying to get more pics!

Pics or it didn't happen

I dont know how it will sound with a convertible but I would think you will lose a lot of sound. Why would he want the system to slam hella hard but not want ported enclosures? That sounds like a lot of shit to go in a trunk also. I think you can pound with a lot less. 2k-5k watts and a couple of 18's would slump pretty good in the right circumstances. But if you love to build and he loves to spend...get out the grinder and start stuffin. There ya go. You will loose ALOT of sound and possibly tear the top itself. You need to talk to him and find out his goals, and why he doesn't like ported enclosures. I see NO logical reason why he would want 8 12"s and WANT to be sealed. Beyond the fact that he could say " I got 8 12"s in my truck and it's rattles like King Kong and Godzilla back there thumpin." Which would sound like absolute trash. I have a stern passion for hating trunk rattle. i agree i hate trunk rattle, but this is what he wants. he wants the trunk to rattle. i think i am just gonna have to convince him to go ported and do 8- 12" in 12cu.ft. @ about 34 hz giving them right around 16000 watts. hey he wants to spend the money and im not gonna tell him no. thanks guys I worked in the industry in Florida many years ago and many people seemed to feel that trunk rattle was the primary objective!!! They'd install 6 subs (keeping stock mids and highs....some of the real coniseurs would buy tweeters as well) They'd come to pick it up, turn it up all the way stand outside and watch the trunk rattle and be very happy if the trunk had a nice buzzing qualtiy. OF course these guys would get 100 yards down the street pull over, crank the gains on their amps all the way (because of course that's a volume knob) then come back later that day needing new amps. Keep in mind moving enough air to do a hair-trick would definitely destroy a soft top. I'd do a dozen Bass-Shakers attatched to his seats to give the feeling of low freq and just a couple subs.

Damn. I was sooooo close to doing this myself. JB-weld FTW~!!!!

I will be getting a TC LMS 3ohm coil driver this week to play with. Will report back when I do some testing. Personally I'm running the TC2K's and wishing like hell I'd ponyed up the extra money for some LMS drivers. Keep in mind adequate port area/volume for a pair of 18's tuned low will eat up a LOT of your 10-12ft.

More brix were shat after seeing the pictures!

For subwoofers in general, they will reach mechanical limits first <40hz and thermal limits first >40hz. Of course that's a generalization and it all depends on your application and install. Just use your head and you won't have to find out.

Call Steve 443-623-4952 Tell him Thor sent ya. If you can really hear the difference between 4500 and 5000W I applaud you since in theory the difference should be appx half a DB and in reality depending on many other factors it could be less than that or nil (assuming some degree of compression at this power level). Then again some people can hear the difference in a 7,000$ pair of speaker cables. I may just not have that sort of refined ear.

he had 1 cvr in that and it hit 146? at 33hz

<15 is just silly. Who really tunes down to 10hz? Even home theater guys plan to be 3db down @ 16. Lowest freq in actual music is 8hz fundamental (64 foot pipe in a couple pipe organs) 4hz harmonic . That'll be at 132db sustained IRL.....try hitting that in your next wall build! That all being said 25-35 is really really low and is virtually non-existant in 80's rock....or even most music today that isn't "chopped and screwed". Also worthy of restoration is George Clinton/Parliament .... "Flashlight" sounded really good when I had the Audiocontrol Epic hooked up. 1. Create super Low freq mix cd 2. ???????? 3. Profit!

Focus on good fronts, good install (some sound deadening work in the doors will pay off a LOT) Small sub in rear 4 channel amp. DO shop around before you buy gear. Bing.com/live.com cashback might save you a good chunk of change to if you pay via paypal. There isn't a magic barrier in your car that keeps the sound from getting to the back especially if you have 100W up front on some good components! I personally ONLY use rears for surround sound (movies).

Some folks say that a big port is just an extension of the penis. Nothing phalic about that whatsoever......

Nothing else in signal path. Further testing reveals it may be an issue with my electrical system (though I'm still not sure why it doesn't reveal itself with the amps as individuals?). After some highway driving and a full charge on batteries the noise seems to quiet right down. WIll have all my batteries tested this week and probalby test my alt as well (though that's only 1 year old). Anyway these amps are pretty ballsy it's getting loud enough that I feel it's actually getting dangerous and I can tell you moderation in things has never been my long suit. Thanks for all the help fellas. I gotta say these amps are as good as anything in their class and the support here is right up there with the best in the industry.

I promise you won't notice the difference between 5,000W and 4,500W (possibly not even on a meter). I say go with whichever will give you the best customer support and will be easiest to buy and get support for in your country. Try contacting Stetsom and ask some questions and see how they treat you.

Found some cheap RCA's....no help there. Will attempt to level match for now, but would love to get this straightened out to run to a single 3 ohm coil LMS driver.

I think this would be very difficult with tolerances. Also would make using remote knob a bit tough. Any particular brand/style of RCA that is known to work? If you have a 2 footer you could ship me I'd pay if it works. So far used : Stinger Radio Shack (middle of the road) Tributary Might add that the noise begins AS SOON AS the center pin makes contact inside the female on the amp.

More testing today. Tweaking ground does nothing. RCA from HU removed = still engine noise Both amps hooked up but not to eachother = no noise RCA between amps removed = no noise tested 3 different type/size/brand RCA's seemed to have no effect. This noise is horrid someone please help, I can't be the only one to have had this problem. Running each amp separately to each woofer is out since I need the subs level matched.