SpeakerBoy

As a realistic comprimise; I've heard a 145db car and that's decent for me basswise for now, I want ruler flat response at moderate levels, full tilt is a little different I suppose. I turn down the mids to save my speakers at full tilt, and turn the mids up when I want it musical. I'm at a severe deficit of vocabulary to describe what im after so ill say "as much midbass as is possible in a door configuration without being severely uncomfortable in the driver's seat" as far as leg room. I'm 6' even. My favorite front stage I've ever seen was Justin's blazer with a fifteen a ten and a super tweet. I'd try a fifteen an eight and an AMT-Pro. But I don't know how much the door size affects the fifteens response. I'm probably going for a system that requires hearing protection for demos. I like to FEEL as much of the music as possible. I really think that's why I like it loud. I have my Mountaineer for transportation of schtuff, the subie is for audio and having fun at the track. What are the right questions for me to be asking so I'm not running in circles on this? I'll put a pair of fifteens in each door and bolt in Windows if that's what it takes.

What's a good place to start as far as designing a violent midbass setup. I'll spend 2/3 of my total budget for audio on front stage. I do already have a pair of IDQ15's and a Fi BTL on hand to keep me occupied. I'm interested in SPL to weight ratio, and I want it flat from 15-75hz with front stage that can handle the job of keeping up with 145-150db on music. I want to complete one and tailor the other to suit it; and from what you're saying Front stage first. I'm not solely after loud. I want pristine mids and highs as well, and I mean a system that I do not grow tired of. Holographic imaging, gut wrenching kickdrums, zero sibilance are some things I can list im after. Ultimately my money always returns to speakers. Keeps me off drugs. Last time I woke up on lifesupport so ultimately, no pricetag will dissuade me from achieving my goal.

Stop posting until you read the whole post. I'm going to take measurements, and decide what design applies best. I'm sure, just to piss you off I could do four on the front baffle and four in a diamond configuration recessed in the center, opposed firing. Clearly I don't value your opinion, stop offering it. I give you hella bad rep when you say dumb stuff. Get your tongue out of M5's asshole lmao. Sean, I....got this itch man. I'd have to get a sedan to do IB if I don't get the wagon, and I reallllly like the wagons. I don't mind no backseat, and I'll still have a WHOLE trunk. I suppose another option is an EF hatch, but I really want another vehicle with AWD. Mmmm. I could even do six twelves and mount the amp on the front of the baffle, for super short wire runs. Basics is, six woofers, Lithium power, stained birch, and 5-8k rms. Vehicle dimensions and how crazy I can get with baffle design is gonna determine the size. I'll have enough bass, and for low to moderate listening, infinitely low response (the goal). Spose I could wall the Neer and do a sealed setup in the wagon to keep it light for the track. I'll know more when I get some measurements. Who else buys vehicles around the build and not the other way around lmao

I won't have 10x VAS but I'm sure I'll be satisfied with output. Two IB3's would still be plenty. One would be plenty. Once I get a free day, it's off to a dealership to measure an actual vehicle so I'll know what size constraints I'll be facing. I have no idea what you're trying to say about cancellation, I love opposed firing woofers. Sexy and sturdy. Clam shells rule. You sound like a highschooler who studies at best buy. Don't post on my thread with gibberish and bullshit. Do your research, or keep it to yourself. Look at your rep. Everyone thinks you're an idiot but you. Stop humiliating yourself. If you can't provide FACTS I have no interest in your "wisdom" scientific, mathematical evidence on how I'm wrong or eat my ass. Jesus fucking Christ you're dull. I push limits and learn to achieve a satisfactory result with less. Always after a lower note. G'day mate.

You literally didn't answer any of my questions. Fail. Not looking for woofer suggestions. Deliberately intend to pursue an IB build, and I already own a Fi BTL 18. With as much displacement as I'll have, in a vehicle this size, I'll have sufficient output. One 18 on 1.5k in my Mountaineer is almost where I need it, so six on 7k in a smaller walled car should be a little closer to where I want it. I've owned plenty of ported and sealed as well as a few shitbox bandpasses. IB bass holds an allure to me, it's always so effortless. Wattage isn't everything bro. I can get nearly full excursion on a BTL off of 1.5k rms. Enclosure is far more important than drowning a woofer in power.

I read it as YOU were saying subs can't play below FS. Mah bad. I love Type R's that's why I got defensive I had a pair that dropped pretty low even in a dorky best buy prefab, and they take more power than they seem like they could.

I don't think you know what you're talking about.

Seems the consensus is the 1/4" strip or the window will stick out. I get the garage back today so I'll look at it this afternoon. Hope it's as simple as tightening the bolts back up

Doubt that would stop the slapping. Too soft.

!!!!

What is the 1w/1m measurement of the 8ohm version?

Remember, unless you double (or more) power, you won't really hear a difference. Many easier ways to get louder/lower. I'm jelly. Hopefully getting some SSA toys this Christmas o.o

What was it???

*sweats*

Moving to Illinois in the morning, first thing to do once the truck is unpacked then. I believe the panels can be pulled back, but I need to clean my sunroof drains anyway.

If you keep the number of variables (system components) low, it's way easier to dial in. Believe me I used to love throwing shit in the signal chain because it's "cool" or it does that one additional thing, but if you're buying equipment to make up for other equipments flaws, where did the problem really originate?

More like, I have to buy the pioneer first now, my sony xav-63 is skipping, shutting off and randomly selects songs to play after a list finishes on iphone. =[ On the upside, fourth battery soon, (free) buncha maintenance got done on the truck, one notably being: gained a whole volt at idle by cleaning my coil pack grounding points of rust. O_o"

Open to all suggestions, as I'm pulling my hair out trying to combat this, and I'm not sure where to attack first, as aiming is only helping partly For reference, i drive a 98 mountaineer (ford Explorer) I can't get vocals to come from above the dash withtweets at the A pillar and 6.5's in the factory locations. I REALLY dont want my tweeters in my doors. It looks awful on my doors. The best luck i had was with a pair of 4" noname coaxials up on the dash aimed at the dome light, from 350hz up, midbass 50-350 and the 18 from fifty down. I have time alignment currently, and am lining up to replace my HU as well as add in a MiniDSP, but for now, i want to get this answered before i buh anything else. Ive heard some people catch flak for using coaxials in a three way (I'm guessjng because it means you're limited on your m-t xover point) , so my question is, what's the simplest way to bring my stage up? I am fine with passive, or active. Ill even try three way active, but id like to keep the number of variables down for now, as aiming is kicking my ass. , the better i get with audio, the more i realize i dont know.

So, 80PRS it is, less monies is gewd monies I don't like using amp xovers because they are a guessing game. My trophy for myself, whenever I conquer two way was that I'd purchase Morel drivers for my three way. I've heard they are a very neutral sounding driver, which is what I'm after. I've only ever heard maximo's in a shop wall, which was completely stupid and I feel, non representative. If it's a brand name = price thing, I'm very happy with Dayton they've never done me wrong. Plus I like to show people up with budget products. It's sorta my thing. Except for the FI of course. TL:DR; pioneer it is following deadening. Still woefully unsure of driver choice, nowhere in town to audition anything less than laughable.

Well, right now I'm running three amps. Sub, mid, tweet. I cross at 50hz for the sub, 100hz for the mids (or I violate my poor Rockfords lol) and 3khz for the tweets. This is all on the amps now, if the prs can handle it for now, I'll purchase that first, but the Mini just seems much much more flexible and more befitting a permanent install. I'd likely play with it in the neer, and make it permanent in the two door. When I try to bandpass my Rockfords they sound weird, spec sheets say they are meant to be ran wide open anyway.

My truck is my "me space" at this time in my life. After being homeless it accumulated everything you could want in a space to stay for a while, albeit unintentionally. Everything from non perishables to blankets and flashlights. Obviously the entertainment. I'm weird about my truck.

I really like pioneer HU's and not sure if I'd be used to just a knob yet; it's only 200 and it can be utilized for many projects to come. while driving a tweak here and there is comforting then I can set it once im home, on the Mini. I'd love a P99rs x_x jesus *drool* Once the medication levels, I want to put a touchscreen in the dash of my truck with the mac mini. Once the computer is in I'll probably move to just pots under the screen.

I think it's time for the miniDSP and a new HU (Mine is starting to crap out and argue with my phone when it comes to shuffling playlists.) also, seven band eq, no longer satisfactory. That plus the deadening should be pretty pretty good. 80prs and a mac mini sounds tasty. I could use a break from a touchscreen for now though, I'm spoiled. (This is my first radio). 80 prs should be around 200 and a minidsp is 99 so, about five hundo to finish the door project. My brother's two door exploder isn't totaled after all so im gonna keep trying to snag it I also think a single 18 is *sigh* adequate for a long time. At least til the midbass is overpowering. Onwards and upwards!

I appreciate your input as well if you want a blatantly honest answer I'm experiencing a set of side effects I'd rather not go in depth on from new medications that effects my ability to work with words and text and It gets really bad when I don't eat and right now I'm way behind on my bills and I just told you I chose to blow money on an image dynamics amp. So without getting personal, and without anyone giving me advice on problems my daily life as I know I got em lol Thank you, phasing is helpful. My tweets sound better now. M5, I need to be patient and perfect a 6.75 + Amt 2way before I can move up to a larger driver?Beginning to think bass isn't what I crave most in audio damnnnnnitttt x_x Between now and ordering deadening, what else can I do? (What other info can I provide to make that answerable?)

So important to me right now, it's a separate post. As soon (the damn second) I have that buck sixty for mlv and ccf, doors are being completed and eight's are being ordered (don't want the final drivers in til they have a proper home) but as of right now I've sealed all holes, clayed the doors with plastilina like 5lbs each, and made rings for my 6.75's. I now have them in better phase and time aligned and I just need MOAR MIDBASS I was gonna was ask because I couldn't find shit anywhere on it but I finally figured it out its an Image Dynamics Q700.2