SpeakerBoy

I'm singularly, lliterally, ONLY mad because of what it takes to feed them. I bought the bigger mids amp because I could cook steaks on my Lanzar aftee a listening session trying to get them to produce a satisfactory level (and man, I don't mean bangin, I mean a satisfactory for normal sessions) What's a nice efficient 8" 8ohm midbass that could mate with some dayton AMT3's? I'll eat the price tag and snag em, by now you should know, I trust you man. You've never steered me wrong (just made me feel silly)

The mini is definitely on the list when the money is right, didn't know that was a feature oh lawdy ima sleep so much better tonight. I did however have a stroke of luck in flipping my left tweeter and passenger mid. My logic (correct or not) was shortest and longest wavelength respectively. I'm going to try a few more combinations next weekend after a solid seven days of having it like this. I'm pretty pissed my mids are not only 6's but 8ohm because I have a feeling this ID Q series 2ch has some singing to show me. I liked those GR's but thinking if I gave that company a shot I'll try these gr-research.com/m165xwoofer.aspx satisfactory midbass is so hard for me to achieve...I'm an spl guy but right now midbass that snaps you in the chest > literally anything else ever because wtf

Fuck me in the face with a pitchfork my left tweeter was ruining my whole install.TOTALLY UNDERRATED advice. Mucho gracias senór. Let me ask this next one carefully. Did you mean both left to right as in the entire left side was generally phased separate from your right or that your left tended to be phased opposite for example left tweet in right tweet out left mid out right tweet in I ask, because even though I pride myself on the of accuracy of my ear, between fatigue and severe anxiety (antagonized by uncertainty in my absolute favorite obsession) I am intimidated by the thought of switching each driver one at a time over and over all, what, twenty four times and deciding what sounds best. I'd literally rather make a switchboard for tuning.

No, you answered exactly what I was trying to ask if travel effected tone. I may have used a few more words than needed lol

Nah, I've wondered this for a while. An eighteen and a twelve with equal displacement, motorforce, suspension compliance, moving mass, should have equivalent output yes? Or does the amount of air affected instantaneously factor in to the tone?

Idk i think what he's saying is say a single eighteen moved an inch, and a single twelve moved two and a half, with similar displacement and assuming equal cone mass, what's the difference in output?

I'll do that this evening and give it a listen. As far as the midbass, I've heard port firing into the kick works well, so what about a partially exposed port that I can shorten til it's homed in?

I have t/a and have found that it's not really reliable to use a tape measure so I've been messing with it by ear. It helps a ton but I overall need more powerful frontstage drivers, they're almost at their limits on 50rms/ch x_x I'm all for two way instead, just really want something that can produce reputable midbass and stay clean in the upper range. Would a ported pa style 8 be what I'm looking for, or a ported mid in general?

So I'm thinking Morel 1075's and Dayton AMT Pro's for a new frontstage after I rebuild the box for the btl. Ive heard lotsa good stuff about morel and I loved the Maximo's got to hear, but I've never bought raw drivers from them before. Does anyone have an opinion? Additionally, was considering the Morel CAT-378 instead of the amtpro, the Daytons are massive... However I can say next to my BTL, my AMT's I currently own are my favorite drivers I've ever owned. Such....ease

I'm considering going to a single twelve to get my trunk back, and I'm having a very difficult time deciding on a driver for my application. I like the output of the BTL 18 I have and I am under the impression I can achieve similar output on a smaller driver because I've never even heard the Btl on more than 1500rms. There's a few too many options for me to pick from, I've been spinning in circles. If I'll have 7500rms on tap and anything from 1.5-2.5cu, what would be a woofer capabile of strong authoritative bass? I'm looking at N2/N3 12's, Evil 12's, Team Sundown 12's but I have no clue how to pick one. Each is a significantly different price and I just want to make sure I'm making the right decision. Willing to spend 1250 on a single driver if it'll get the job done. I will consider a fifteen if it's small box friendly =] Does anyone within an hour of fort Wayne have a beefy 12 they'd be willing to demo?

The SP4 is the current 3kw contender. I've heard mixed reviews on which is preferred but I do believe the SP4 is sealed friendly which the beetle isn't.

The SP4 is the current 3kw contender. I've heard mixed reviews on which is preferred but I do believe the SP4 is sealed friendly which the beetle isn't.

The BTL sounds fantastic when you have the midbass to keep up with it's chunky goodness. Honestly, it even sounds palatable in clipping like, it's so hard to mess with. I've never owned such a beastly driver before it and it's starting to dawn on me that I'm not even finding valid reasons to stray from it. It fits the niche. Five cubes on a few thousand more watts should hit the spot nicely, I'll even put in the elbow grease and mold it up against the wheel wells and back seat. When I stuffed the box and dropped it from 14 to 10cubes the response changed for the better, it sounds so much juicier. I'm going on a hunch that a nice small enclosure will bring that tight, dry bass I'm looking for.

The BTL sounds fantastic when you have the midbass to keep up with it's chunky goodness. Honestly, it even sounds palatable in full on hard clip like, it's so hard to mess with. I've never owned such a beastly driver before it and it's starting to dawn on me that I'm not even finding valid reasons to stray from it. It fits the niche. Five cubes on a few thousand more watts should hit the spot nicely, I'll even put in the elbow grease and mold it up against the wheel wells and back seat. When I stuffed the box and dropped it from 14 to 10cubes the response changed for the better, it sounds so much juicer. I'm going on a hunch that a nice small enclosure will bring that tight, dry bass I'm looking for.

I built this box before I had my Mountaineer, it was 14cu@26 for home theater and music, and only 500rms.

I built this box before I had my Mountaineer, it was 14cu@26 for home theater and music, and only 500rms.

Awesomeness. So I think the general consensus is to keep the 18 and rebuild to small optimum spec. Under my hood there's a diagram with a footnote that says "BTL Catalyst" ill have to post a pic

Awesomeness. So I think the general consensus is to keep the 18 and rebuild to small optimum spec. Under my hood there's a diagram with a footnote that says "BTL Catalyst" ill have to post a pic

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This ufo18 is a loaner if I decide to stay BTL, I'll buy an N2 =] Why is the n3 not recommended for music?

This ufo18 is a loaner if I decide to stay BTL, I'll buy an N2 =] Why is the n3 not recommended for music?

loud is nice but it's useless to me if I can't play a wide range of music on it. I'm the dude that would wall my truck just to eQ it flat to 10hz. What ever happened to Krytonite White?

loud is nice but it's useless to me if I can't play a wide range of music on it. I'm the dude that would wall my truck just to eQ it flat to 10hz. What ever happened to Krytonite White?

I was afraid to hear that Before I part with the btl i guess I'll try 5.5cu @ 30hz with 120sqin of port. If that doesn't cut it, I'm going to do two xcons sealed. I just need the 16cube behemoth gone :/