LoSx

Due to my battery hookup location and the fact that it will be nearly impossible to get a 0 gauge wire on it unless I rewire the alternator and main power line toa new battery block, how bad would it be to run 4 gauge wire to a fuse block and 0 gauge afterwards? According to charts 4 gauge should be able to handle up to 300 Amos if it is a short length. So will battery —> fuse (4 gauge 1 ft long) —> distribution block (0 gauge guessing 13 ft long). Will this work ok?

Ok thats great to know! So I can just connect both to terminal A and be fine... I forgot that it is single channel LoL Im use to dual channel I guess...

Ok so in the manual it loooks like I have to connect both positive speaker out terminals to the + speaker and both negative to the speaker negative to run it bridge... is that correct? On my other amps it was always the positive to speaker A + and the negative to speaker B negative

Im debating between the FI SSD 10 w/ copper coils and a Kicker zx750 - 420 or the FI SSD 10 w/ copper and the SAE turned down low - 485 or the 10 Icon and the SAE - 479 or even FI Q 10... but that costs a bit more and Im not sure Ill gain that much from it All ported enclosures... unless you think a sealed 12 will get louder.... I havent heard much on the Icons really... how do they compare to the Fi SSD series?? Exact same or close... better or worse sq.... more output?? I will probably get the stuff within another week or so though... And teh RL-P12 I could only do sealed and they dont have a 10 available... its also a little costly.... How do you think the RL-p 12 sealed would compare in output connected to a SAE-1000 or Kicker zx1000? but thats close to 600 there Ahh soo many choices.... Any local people to MD have some Icons I can hear to check them out? I have an RL-P 15 in a ported HT sub but thats hard to compare seing how its a sontube with 9 cu ft or something insane.... but its nice!

Ok I purchased a new car and am taking out my old audio (which won't fit into the new car) and trying to purchase some new stuff (or used) for my new car. Now I have about 1.3 cu ft of space to work with for a sub... Not much at all but I want good SQ that can get LOUD.... I listen to Rock, Rap, Hip hop, Techno, etc.... Now I really like the 12" JLw6v2 which I would do in a sealed enclosure but I don't know if I can justify the HUGE markup they put on the sub... I know it is a great sub and it sounds great but I'm sure I can do just as well for much cheaper.... I also like that the sub can run off 500 - 600 rms and get loud This is where you guys come into play... I am trying not to strain the charging system on my new car too much it is a rx-8 (2007). So keeping it to lower power while keep the loudness would be nice... The other options I have looked at are FI Q 10" Ported or FI Q 12" Sealed (not sure which would get more more spl.... or if its a toss up and which would sound better) The only problem being that the Q requires a decent bit of power to move it... Also looking at the FI SSD 10" Ported or 12" Sealed... which take a little less power but I'm unsure if I would be better off with the Q? Now my old gear for reference was a 15" RE XXX (Older 2004/2005 model) in a sealed enclosure being fed with a PPI Art A1200.... I cant fit much large then a 12" sub though in my new car and this is not going to work at all because of size, weight after its all done, and eats more power then I would like.... I could possibly stick with the A1200 and use it on my new sub but I am open to other amps as well... (1200 watts being a bit higher then I might aim for usually but it saves me from getting an amp I gues... Id try to stick to closer to under 1000 watts maybe... also this PPI ART I believe is a class A/B amp so its not really known for efficiency!) Now I am trying to sell my old gear to get my new gear so its not too har don the pocket... I am aiming for maybe 300 for sub and 300 for amp but if you see something much better that isnt too much worse in price id be interested as well... These prices are just suggestions/guildelines... I dont want you to suggets a 600 sub but I wouldnt be opposed to going to 750 or more for sub/amp if its worth it... Daily driver type setup... not a competition setup