riored4v

Got the sub and amp installed last night, and was noticing some dimming of the headlights driving around. I'm not really wanting to change out the alternator just yet due to warranty, but I'd like to upgrade the battery and hopefully that will resolve it. The amp is an Audioque 1200d running at 1ohm, so its making right around 1200w. Not really sure which route to go for a battery. Should I look in to an Optima or Interstate type battery, or go the route of an XS battery? It would be the main/only battery and used for daily use in both really warm and cold temps.

I was actually just looking up these two. Trying to find out if they offer them in my size.

Yea, the Optima I was looking at was a Yellow Top (AGM) battery. I've had good luck with them and Blue Top's in the past. They said D35 would fit my car: http://www.optimabatteries.com/us/en/shop/yellowtop/ I might swing by the parts store on the way home to see if they fit, since so far those seem like the best options. It would be nice if the slightly larger D34 group would end up fitting.

. Deep cycle will only help for severe discharge and recharge. That's not an issue here. You need more current capacity and reserve capacity. The only real way yo get there is another and/or larger battery. The S197s simply don't have much room underhood. There is a chance a different battery may work, but it will only be marginally better.Ah ok. That makes more sense. Seems like marginally better might be all I need. I don't the dimming of the internal lights or notice the factory dummy volt gauge drop. Only am seeing it in the headlights. I know, its not a very accurate measurement, but its all I have at the moment. Seems like some of the Optimas I saw have a pretty decent jump in amps, but depending on the model, not too big of a jump in RC. Whats a good amount of RC to try and look out for?

Specs looks identical to my factory battery with 500 amps and 90 rc. I might end up going down to one of the auto stores to see what I can fit in there. Looks like Optima has some options that are around the 700 amps and 120 rc.

I'm unsure of that so far since it was just noticeable last night. I could put a DMM on the amp when I get home though. It was just something I was trying to possibly resolve ahead of time with a better battery since I leave for a big road trip tomorrow morning.

You're saying I can't do a deep-cycle or upgrade the battery and use the stock location? Not really looking to do a second battery either due to the extra weight and lack of space. I guess I figured using an upgraded battery to replace the stocker would be the best approach (atleast at first)

2012 Mustang

Setup looks great man. How much power are you running through the stock alternator? I have 800 rms @ 2ohm to the components and 1400 rms @ 2 ohm to the sub...Im sure Im not seeing all 2200 rms and the amps are class D.But I bought one of those little guages you plug into a lighter socket that indicates alternator and battery...I stay around 14.2 when 2k rpm, but idleing drops to 12.5 ish every so often. Im sure its not very accurate, but close. Stock alternator is 110 amp...thinking I might need 200-275 amp? I believe my stock alternator is a 110 also, and I only have 1200w coming out of a single amp and I get some noticeable dimming. Couldnt even imagine that much on my poor system haha

Alright. Thanks. Very curious to see what it sounds like once I give it more power. Already noticed some dimming so I think a new battery is first on my list.

Setup looks great man. How much power are you running through the stock alternator?

I have mine in a sealed enclosure, so far seems pretty decent. Not sure how long I should before I really start cranking on it...?? I also still need to tune the amp a bit since it is still set for when I had the IDQ and a ported box in there.

Thanks guys. As soon as I posted it being 2ohm, it clicked I couldnt wire it for that. Sorry... its still too early for me haha.

2 ohm

one way that MIGHT work is turning the sub so u avoid that surface, may not be ideal for what u want but it might work I had considered that too. But I'm pretty anal with the aesthetic stuff, and having a crooked sub would REALLY bother me.

Just wondering what size to go with? When I ordered from Parts Express, the guy on the phone recommended 1/4" x 20, but turns out these dont fit the opening in my IDQ sub. What size does everyone else use?

Those look pretty nice. Wonder if I can find something like that at Lowe's for a wood application.

Kind of what I assumed, but figured I should double check. Not really a fan of having 2 woodscrews and then 6 allen head screws. Since I'm going to have to buy a new of screws anyways, would it be best to just use inserts all around? Side note... Alton, the box you designed for me fits perfect. Hits all my old mounting locations of the previous box. Thanks again!

Also need some opinion on what I should do here. My box design would allow for basically 6 of the 8 t-nuts to be used. I obviously can't get behind the surface of the top and bottom mounting locations, so I was wondering if i can put the inserts in from the top with some wood glue and let the "teeth" bite the surface of the wood rather than the backside? Would this work at all? Or should i use wood screws for the top and bottom? IMAG1936 by riored4v, on Flickr

I'll look for those at HD and see how much smaller they are than the 1/4. My other though was to just mount my ID sub using wood screws and once my other sub gets here, to just open the holes up and use the inserts/t-nuts at that point.

Makes me wonder if the openings are smaller on the ID sub than others. That's the same size I currently have.

REALLY wish this was a 12. GLWS

Yup. It was posted on Modified's FB page.

Still waiting. Guess there was a shortage on parts.

Jasper circle jig seems to be pretty well recommended