NDMstang65

no interest, sorry.

There's visual reference..pictures i've posted before in some thread..somewhere.. "How its made" did a thing on how speakers are made if you want a video format.

forgot that all of the pole pieces have to be drilled and tapped..oops

Haven't ever timed it..definitely not going to make a video of it as there's way too many ancient secrets there. Bar stock has to be cut for poles, poles go for a ride in the lathes for the OD and chamfer, if they have cooling then they go into the CNC for the cooling channels to be machined into them, then they're ground, then they go into the tumbler to clean any burrs off which preps the surface for paint, then they're cleaned, painted, then they sit for assembly. Top plates are pulled from raw forgings and turned down on the lathes, ID, OD, and then on the tracer lathe to get the profile that's desired, same thing with the back plates. Top plates are all cnc machined as well then all of the holes are tapped for the basket to mount to it. Then they're all tumbled, painted, baked etc. From there magnets are sorted for size and quantity, bonded together, then the motors are assembled..after that baskets are put on the motors, soft parts are dropped in, magnetized, then they dry and are tested/cleaned/packed. It's very time consuming, and yes it's far easier to order parts from overseas and import everything..it's just not our style simply because anybody can do that, look around .

Don't like steel in my food lol

Easier to machine and build in batch form.. When a machine isn't turning parts it's down for a tool change and a different set up to run different parts. All orders are built to order, but orders are also done in batches as well. Makes our lives much easier. We work every day..10-12 hours a day, somtimes more.

wrtr

We don't use any heat shrink on them..if they are glowing the tinsel leads it's going to do nothing but melt off of the lead as is and cause more isses, aside from that the special thread that is used can not bite the lead as well with heat shrink put on it..so then you'll have loose tinsel leads flapping about because they will work their way out of the thread that holds it on the spider. I can put a soldering iron that's 950 degrees on a spider and it will not burn..same with every other part that is on there.

that 'flop' noise..is not..normal..

Those wont' fatigue..have you taken a sub out of the box? Odds are you're going to have huge burn spots on the spiders and the tinsel lead might be smashing down into the basket and shorting out on it due to you not having a subsonic filter.. When things get flung and moved waaaaaaaay too much you're going to have issues. It's essentially like driving a car with no brakes.

Sure it can be..it may be fine at rest whenever you read the coils with the meter. If the coil was exploded it wouldn't work at all..it'd be open. A tinsel under load with power going through it, and the speaker moving..it could have a fatigued spot in the tinsel leads because you don't have a subsonic filter. It drops out and causes the amp to go into protect.. Or the amp is clipping out and going into protect. What leads do you have? Integrated or the external ones?

proably burned a spot up on the tinsel lead..it doesn't drop out until they start moving below tuning at full excursion

That's your probablem...you've probably yanked the tinsel leads out of the subs. You can not play below your port tuning frequency without a subsonic filter..you'll rip the soft parts up. Watch the video:

Whats the subsonic filter set at?

how do you have it wired?

Sure it is..people see a blown speaker and automatically think it is the manufacture's fault..when it isn't. I don't like selling recones..they're a pain to deal with. I don't want anybody to have any problems..ever.

So long as you don't turn around and start yelling at us that we built you a junk speaker and it fell apart and burned up...do as you please. You're going to end up buying stock in recones if you keep that up

That's a quick way to blow something man..that thing is NOT made to take that kind of power free air.

carbon will be an option..our abs plastic caps have not arrived yet so we're still using the carbon ones at no additonal cost until we get the abs ones back in stock, then they'll be an upgrade.

tsrety

Enclosure..subsonic filter.. You should not be running them in a temporary enclosure that is not correct for them. You're going to end up breaking them if you are running into 'lead slap' because they are moving WAY too much.

Email your order number to sales@ficaraudio.com If they aren't done yet they can be changed.