NDMstang65
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Posts posted by NDMstang65
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Probably the first sub out of a new batch of glue when the temperature dropped in the 20's which is why the glue is grey. It takes a while to get the accelerator to work right accordance to the temperature, humidity, etc. Normally the glue is always black which makes it blend in and you can't see it.
It being on the terminals is completely normal as it holds the terminals onto the basket. The 10's don't have hardly any material there to hold the terminal on properly with just the little locking nut, so it is glued on the front and back as well as the bottom side of the terminal cup on the basket.
We'll be in contact during business hours tomorrow..i'm going to bed.
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Shim the assembly first to make sure it's snug and centered, pull it back out, apply glue to the spider landing and surround landing and have your gasket close by.
Grab the drop in, centering the terminals towards you and the tinsel leads facing you as well, drop the assembly down in the basket with a shim in the inside of the coil to keep it centered.
Grab the gasket really quickly and put it around the basket on the surround pinching it down to square the surround up so it is setting in the right spot on the basket, hold down on the assembly a bit and activate the spider landing, then spray backwards underneath the edge of the surround on the back side of it while pinching the gasket together to activate the surround. Let that sit for a while, then peel the gasket off and activate the outside edge of the surround, solder the terminals, remove the shim, install the dustcap.1 -
Black is the CA glue, the spray clear stuff is the accelerator.
You do NOT want to put the accelerator on before you put the glue on..the glue is designed to put together wet and get everything in place and then activate it.1 -
6mH isn't high at all..
The problem with inductance is that it goes up with more layers you add..these wonderfully 'educated' people keep adding more and more layers to a coil which does nothing but make it an inductance tank, making people think the speaker is a "low end monster" when in all reality it's nothing but a tank that has no upper end and rolls off at 55Hz. We don't do that..we use a larger diameter wire and less layers which combats the higher inductance.
I can't give you an impedance curve..as that's going to change with your application, the same thing with the inductance curve. (You do understand that all of those wonderful graphs are taken with a very very small signal right?)It's far better to have no inductance rings at all than it is to have random bits of copper or aluminum strewn about in places where they shouldn't be. The whole point of inductance is to linearize it, if it is linear it will sound better. If it has a spot that it gets to in the motor where it's way lower it now shifts and creates more distortion than it would have without the inductance rings in place.
It's a subwoofer, it will play up to 80Hz fine which is what it is intended to do. They've been used in applications such as the 'electric daisy carnival' and 'burning man festival' which all focuses on very bass heavy electronic music.
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Lmao, pissed because I couldn't make it on my own?
Now it's personal. You asked for it.
Go lose a 17 million dollar top fuel funny car deal due to primary sponsors making a bad business investment and then we can talk about not making it on my own.All the machines and white papers in the world will not help you in the real world, go see where that got Orion and Cerwin Vega
.Until then, you're still trying to shove your shit down somebody else's throat. On EVERY thread on this forum.
But..I guess you actually don't really do anything, so you have plenty of time to banter amongst the internet? Making smoke and mirror promises in this theory land that the vast majority of the time never works out in the real world application?
You remind me of a vacuum cleaner salesman in the 1950's, quick to hop on somebody's door step to sell them something way cheaper than anybody else while throwing the other guys under the bus, promise them the moon, and the stars, give them the paperwork to prove the moon and the stars that you printed off previously and then disappear off into the sunset to find the next sucker to banter your smoke and mirrors to.
You're annoying, go away.
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ooo that struck a nerve.
air is thin on top of bullshit mountain isn't it?
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Simply have not had time yet..I haven't sat at a computer since the 5 minutes I emailed you on Monday I think it was.
We've had a couple people out sick playing the jump through hoops game right now. We'll get to it and take care of it as soon as we possibly can.0 -
n2
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negative ghost rider
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No..we're running 15 business days on new orders.
We ran into a TON of supply side issues where we couldn't get our hands on parts. Our terminals are imported simply because they had to be and we just got them back in hand late last week (2 months late).
Our cone vendor was really behind on filling our purchase order for the cones and we only got a partial shipment in until the rest of them arrived. Parts are in hand now and rolling out as fast as possible.
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I can rate something at a million watts if you want to buy it
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JJ,
I'm glad that you are excited about things and very passionate about speakers, I too was once like that at your age, but here's the thing.
I've got close to a thousand emails to answer as I've had near next to no time to do any emails in weeks due to people being out sick, hurt, etc.
I don't have time to answer hundreds of your questions a day, you have to take some initiative and read around the internet and educate yourself as I have told you numerous times. This is the do it yourself or "DIY" market where many things you have to read and figure out on your own. The information is out there and free for you to consult, you just have to google for it.
If you keep sending the same email over, and over, and over, and over, and over it only makes the pile of email that I have to go through next week even bigger provided I'm not out sick with the plague that is going around the shop.
My focus is on machining, building, and making things go out the door right now. Whether it be one handed, sick, hurt or whatever it is that has to be done.
Filling orders takes priority over answering the hundreds of questions you have, I'm sorry I am not able to do that.
Search around the internet...there's tens of thousands of hours of material for you to read.7 -
We haven't released them yet, email us your order number we should be able to accommodate you.
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what was the price difference between a local shop building baskets as opposed to over seas? id be curious to know how much of a gap there is in our manufacturing processes vs another country.
while i know it is the case in many situations i have a hard time fathoming how building a part 3000 miles away is cheaper than building one down the street.
900 to 1000 dollars per basket, for a 10. The bigger the basket, the more material, the more time, the more labor, the more cost. It's not as simple as you think it is by any means.
It's way too expensive, way too much time and labor involved in doing something like that. Die casting is the way to go, even at that point if you do it in the states you are looking at massive tooling costs and massive parts cost per unit to even cover it.
It'd take you 25 years to get your money back on the tooling which is completely not worth it.
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Unless you plan on paying 4-5 thousand dollars for each speaker that isn't going to happen.
We make as much as we can make here..and import the least we possibly can.
You can't spend 250 grand on a basket die here in the states on top of 150-190 dollars per basket and sell the speaker for 300 bucks.
Zero interest in doing any cones in house, we've got enough headaches as is doing all of our own machine work on all of our steel parts. Doing baskets in house or even in the states is far too labor intensive and is not worth it. We already did it with the 18" 12 spoke baskets a few years ago when we were having supply side issues.
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baskets just got cleared today from customs and we'll be going to get them tomorrow
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You do understand that the sub has to wear in over time right? It's not going to drop low and be up to its full potential right out of the box.
Play it, it will come alive. If you're planning on the speakers moving assembly to flop around like a dead fish out of water that's not the intent of the speaker. If you see videos of them moving like that online it's due to somebody playing WAY below their boxes tuning frequency with no subsonic filter and they're going way past the linear point (which is 18mm). Then these are the same people who flip the hell out about yanking the tinsel leads out of their subs or burning them up.
The BL is not meant to be a high excursion sub by any means.
You're irritated because it isn't' moving 4"? Or are you irritated because it doesn't sound how you desire it to sound?
FWIW, ca.com went to shit 7-8 years ago - you are doing things right and properly, don't fall in the dismal abyss of the self proclaimed 'experts' of the internet..you'll jack something up in a heartbeat.
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all i use is a utility knife, little mallet + screwdriver and a 36 grit flap wheel..
none the less it looks like those terminals are toast too, I don't see the ends even up there or they've gotten REALLY hot and melted
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Regardless of any speaker..period..they are ALL going to get warm.
Any and all speakers from a mechanical energy standpoint are horridly inefficient. They basically work like a hair dryer. The coil in a hair dryer isn't that much diferent than a coil in a speaker, the fan motor in the back of the hair dryer blows air over top of the coil that is wound to induce heat. The coil in a speaker moves converting electrical energy into acoustical output that you hear with your ears. The only problem is that well over 95% of the energy that is put into the coil is not used and is lost in the transfer process and is burned off as nothing more than wasted heat energy.
The amplifier applies power to the coil..in which it heats up.
The whole point is to a) don't get a bullshit amp that cheaps out on parts that causes inductive heating and b) when you smell the coil glue turn it down.
I've done that for years..with no scope..no dd-1..not a damn thing and have yet to blow a speaker or burn anything up.
Of course, this was before the days of full retard "BASS BOOSTED" music when things were actually recorded..decently. Some of the shit music that is out there today is most definitely the problem behind people burning everything up.
It's not rocket surgery..it's brain science.
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little hammer and a screwdriver..don't hit it too hard or you'll crack the basket. if you do it right it'l pop right off
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Who was fired..
We don't put any dates on anything ever as many things come up that are completely unforseen.
When we're ready to release a 12 we will.
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Don't have an 'official' release date...we never have for anything and we never will.
The tab that is on the website should be a bit of a clue.
The reason there are a handful of people that have them and have put them up on youtube and what not was to do field testing to prevent any issues with happening with a few parts that we haven't used before. We got the information that we were looking for, made a few adjustments and they're about ready for release. I've had zero time to do any emails, office work, etc for the past week due to people being out sick and everything in the shop breaking at least twice.
Photos have to be edited and put up on the site and then they will be released for ordering.
Thanks for your patience and understanding!
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SP4 Recone... FOAD leads?
in Fi Products
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If you twist the serpantine belt on your car..it will snap..because it's too short when you twisted it.
If you twist a tinsel lead when you tighten it up..it magically becomes shorter, the geometry changes..and it breaks!
What do we see in the pictures posted? Twisted leads. They are not straight. This is the paper that goes in the packaging with them.
-out.