gearstix

I put my blazer in a ditch, first snowfall of the winter, had it in 2wd, fishtailed around a turn, went out in the ditch, drove through the ditch and made it back up on the highway in 2wd. Sub box and everything survived. Blazer is fine. I was working on my subs and one fell in the box and cracked the basket. Since I don't really want to spend the money to have it reconed, (and waste the coil and all that, that have never seen power) I got some reaaally good epoxy. The basket on the one sub has been repaired with Belzona 1111. My dad and I got it as true as we could before we epoxied it and its pretty good, but it still isn't fixed right. I would like to get a new basket and recone put on it, in the long run. The amp I bought from JohnCarr does work good, I must say. My buddy wants an AP3000.1 now too. He's got a Tiburon with two 15" L5s and a 1500.1 from Kicker (not sure if its the ZX or KX). It's louder than mine, but his box is tuned higher (He doesn't even know what its tuned to, he just built it.), mine has more lows than he does. I'm still not finished tuning the amp. I will get a multimeter and do the gain here pretty soon. I need an alternator. Even with the deep cycle battery I have in the back I get pretty decent voltage drops, however I don't think its any less than 12 volts. I do have two alternators here, I'm going to see which one fits and have it rebuilt locally. Would you guys like some videos? I'm sort of worried about these subs, I don't want to feed them too much power, they are tuned to 35hz, and they should probably be tuned higher.

Hey Mark, Just curious how much it would cost to get one of my Mach 5 SPL-12s fixed. It fell in my box, and cracked the basket. My dad and I used some epoxy and got the basket as true as it could be before we epoxied it, however I'd like to get it repaired right. It would need a new recone and basket I would think. Are you able to repair your subs, and if you can, how much would you figure it would cost?

If I had a computer I'd throw up some pictures. Is there any particular reason why the wire falls out? Are the terminals ment for wire larger than 8 gauge?

I have been trying to wire up my subs. I have two Mach 5 Audio SPL12s hooked to a Audiopipe AP3000.1D. I am using 8 gauge wire to go from the amp to the subs. However I cannot get the wire to stay in these terminals. I put one 8 gauge wire in and tightened them all the way up and the wire still didn't really stay in there. So what I came up with is this: I took the nut off where the tinsel lead goes to the terminal, then put a length of 8 gauge with a ring connector on it. Will this cause any problems? I don't have both subs done yet, so it is not hard to revert. I find these terminals a pain in the ass! its sort of like what DD has done with their subs.

The seat will fold up. It was designed to fit in the cargo area of the 2 door Blazer.It just fits with the seats up.. I'm not entirely sure how far it should be away from the tailgate... I will be keeping the seats down though. Because I will be building a battery box/amp rack, to go infront of the box.

Well, my Metra harness was ordered last Monday. Was supposed to be in Wednesday. They got a shipment Wednesday and they never got it unpacked until Thursday. Friday came along with another shipment. My harness wasn't in the Wednesday shipment, so it was coming Friday. They get the Friday shipment in and unpacked, no harness. The warehouse people forgot to put it in. So I didn't get the harness for the headunit so I could wire it up like I wanted to, over the long weekend. Anyways. We're moving so I laid the box in the Blazer, then put the subs in the box. There just sitting there, there not screwed in. I've still got to wire them up. Amp should be on its way. NO HARNESS!! ARGH! Cobra 29 WX NT BT install.

It does have a slight texture, it isn't much. I could always sand it down and repaint the port. No big deal. Its mostly overspray. I hope all the screws didn't split the mdf. I spaced the rows by 3" I think, and I staggered them. 2x2 brace between the subs. Garage still smells like vanilla. The Metra harness came in but wont be unpacked till tomorrow.

??? Do you mean you can't find a harness to buy that will fit or you've bought several for that vehicle that are for it, but do not work some some odd reason... Does the factory H.U. have onstar and all that crap in it??? I seem to remember one of my old car club buds having an issue, where he had to get this adapter that let him put the factory H.U. in the back or somwhere and put an After market H.U in the dash... I think he got the adapter from Parts Express.com... No onstar, no steering wheel controls, no RDS. I ordered a Metra 70-2003 harness yesterday, should be in tomorrow. Hopefully it works.

I cannot get a harness that will work with this blazer! ARRRRGH.

Yea, rip it out right qick and peek at the connections.... If nothing looks funky, your going to have to pull it out and put it on your work bench and test it; Make sure it wrks right there... If it does then break out the multi-meter and test light... Check all your fuses at the pannels, then power wires comming out of the dash... I'm assuming you used a wiring harness kit... One that you solder on to the headunits wires, then plug in to the factory plugs and its not just butchered and spliced in.... I never soldered the connections.. I didn't butcher them either. It was a harness that plugs into the stock harness, has a little module, and then the wires that come out that you hook up to the headunit. I used these. Butt Connecters.... Yuck!!! Jus playin, but I never use those... Some people swear by'em, but everytime I've had a wiring problem, its been those... So, I don't use'em any more.. When I put in a Headunit, I take the factory wiring harness adapter kit lay it out on the bench with the head unit harness and strip each of the connections, slip some heat shrink on, then twist them together and solder'em up, slid the heat shrink over the solder and shrink'em up... Pretty much the same with any smaller guage wiring like that that I do... Kinda nerdy, but I actually like to Solder and heatshrink... My dad taught me how to do it when I was going into Junior High, then I took a Electronics/Shop class in High School and we covered it again... Fun stuff... I don't know how to solder. I'll just redo it tomorrow.. I don't have a work bench, lol. We're moving so I'll have a garage bay of my own.

Haha! I will Mark. Damn these subs are heavy.

Yea, rip it out right qick and peek at the connections.... If nothing looks funky, your going to have to pull it out and put it on your work bench and test it; Make sure it wrks right there... If it does then break out the multi-meter and test light... Check all your fuses at the pannels, then power wires comming out of the dash... I'm assuming you used a wiring harness kit... One that you solder on to the headunits wires, then plug in to the factory plugs and its not just butchered and spliced in.... I never soldered the connections.. I didn't butcher them either. It was a harness that plugs into the stock harness, has a little module, and then the wires that come out that you hook up to the headunit. I used these.

Thanks for the comments guys, this is the first box I've built. I staggered the screws. I put them in because I'm paranoid. The first and second baffle is screwed and glued together. The whole box is glued and screwed together. I've been workign on the headunit in the blazer. It seems like its been going okay but there's no power to the headunit when the key is in accessory., Its weird, I've never had this happen and I've installed a few of these. I may need to pull it apart again and check connections.

I'm copying this from ***.. Well I guess I'll post up here too. Here's the 'daily'. 2005 Blazer. 4.3 V6 Automatic. A/C 4x4. Its got about 60,000kms on it. My dad and I started on this box. I had wenn_du_weinst design this for me. Its tuned to 35hz, I can't remember if he told me the airspace. Day one looked like this. Knocked a little piece out.. Lookin down the port. Bottom of the box.. Day two I glued the second baffle on, and cut out the sub holes. This is the second time I've used a jig saw, first time was yesterday when I cut out a mount for y CB out of some left over mdf. I think the holes turned out okay? Its all glued inside on the seams. This is what I got to spray on the box. When its done. Well, thats it soo far. I'm tire as hell lol. Its pretty warm for here, and I've been sitting in the sun all day. What do you guys think? I'll be getting my amp soon hopefully, and some Deka Intimidators eventually. Biggest I can get is the 9A34. But they'll work. Todays updates.. I added some more scews to the top baffle. Theres over ninety now on the top. I hope it won't come apart. I also test fitted the sub. I may get this thing in paint once I take a break. Its hot out.. for here at least. Ran a bit of Mono exterior around the inside of the box and around the base of the brace. I've never used it before.. its sorta a mess, but it'll work. I also painted the box today. Screws.. Edit: I ended up using 4 cans of the Speckle stuff. It doesn't last very long. But they did make it smell like vanilla. Now the garage smells like it too. Well, what do you guys think?

I have been looking at getting the AP3000.1D, but I saw I can get the AQX3500.1 for about the same price, has anybody tested them to see if they do rated?