rustydawwg

Big three (4ga recommended). Some true 4 guage wire. Possibly a small AGM battery (if you have to run over 12ft of power wire I probably an additional battery. If your alternator is rated at 90amps or under you might want to consider an upgrade to at 130amp alternator.

Hi, there is a "high" level and "low" level sensitivity switch on my JL amp. The manual suggests to set at "high" but I almost get no movement from the sub until I turn the gain at least halfway. Setting it at "low" seems to boost the signal input and the sub bumps alot more with the gain at zero compared to halfway setting before? I usually set mode slope to 24db as it sounds better to me and center frequency 65hz and low pass around 80-100 depending on size/box the sub is in. Its a sealed 400w 10" that I've been fooling with, so should I keep input at "high" level setting and boost sub eq on headunit and gain more? Or just stick with what sounds best? I have 4v preouts, using store bought CDs, and checked rca connections to amp to make sure they were solid. Separate 4 channel speaker amp too so headunit amplfier is turned off. From what I've been gathering the Nak headunits sound very natural (very flat conservative eq factory eq settings). How does rca signal relate to sub level adjustment on headunit? It goes -10 to 10. I have it set around +5 right now. So i guess the big question is, am I safe running "low" setting for rca input and setting conservative gains? (just under a quarter) Or a big no-no?

I wish they gave there site a overhale, it can be a bit discouraging with the current layout. I wish they gave there site a overhale, it can be a bit discouraging with the current layout. haha the store is almost the same way haha. There's some items up for display but you iether need to bring your old lights in or know exactly what you need.

dang, i shoulda waited to order my xcon lol....

I'll be picking up one of these, i've lost a sub due to physical damage in trunk.

#6393

Believe it or not I live down the street from there store/warehouse location in Huntington Beach. They offer fantastic customer service (lifetime warrantly on everything. I advise though to stray away from their LED tailights as they do not mix well sound systems period ( they are vibration sensitive). They must have additional charges for online customers, I bought my complete headlight/foglight kit (35w headlights 55w fogs) for only $70 including harnesses needed. They are also a bargain for anyone looking to do LED interior conversion too (I needed about 15 lights so it was somewhere around $80) They're very high quality and carry many different styles depending on how bright you want each light to be.

i got that sack- yo gotti i got them- yo gotti Im 4rm Bompton-YG Make it Clap- YG Sprung-YG Smoke that B****- Juicy J Bombay Gin Dance- Juicy J Erryday- juicy j/ wiz khalifa The YG tracks listed get pretty low just a heads up.

Hi everyone, I've been doing some shopping lately looking for a new sub and wanted to get some advice. Heres a few things specifically I'm kinda basing my next purchase upon. 1. Budget- $450 (approx) 2. single subwoofer setup only 3. minimum 1500w RMS 4. Best SQ possible at the same time id love something that can hit pretty damn hard (140 decibels if possible) 5. Very durable!! I've already blown 2 soundsplinter rlp-18s i need something that can take some serious abuse. ( something that actually can withstand in hot weather) I will be using a a jl 1000/1v2 to power the sub ( Nak cd400 headunit). So far I've been browsing TC sounds Axis series, Ascendant audio mayhem series, or sound solution XCon series. I've been offered to purchase a jl 13w7 with ground shaker box for $350 but Im not sure if its going to give me the the lows that my 18 produced. Im open to all subwoofer and enclosure suggestions and my max allowable dimensions are 30" wide, 15" tall, and 20" deep.(facing trunk). I want to hear everyones thoughts, am i crazy trying to achieve 140 decibles? Is a 13w7 a perfect match as most people pledge? Other companies out there to consider? please, if you have any experiences post the specs of the vehicle as well so I have an idea.

Haha Caught on fire!? yeah just a little overpowered ;)The gain on the head unit can do just as much damage as the one on the amp. usually it is advisable not to mess with the sub boost on the head unitClassic case again of exactly why you should use your ears. If they are trained to listen for stress and you teach them what it sounds like it doesn't matter what you do setting wise as you will know when you go too far.Damage doesn't come from either gain knob, it comes from a careless user. First step is always to train your ears. Until then you shouldn't even have a stereo. Obviously learning steps are great, you've both had them, hopefully they sink in.I shouldn't even have a sound system? I'm careless because I explained my situation and wanted constructive criticisim to help me out? I consider careless as encountering an issue and not wanting to find a solution to fix it.

Yeah but it sucks when i spell my whole setup out,with pics, and they can't even tell me the color of the sky lol. Just to be Philosophical - Maybe we don't know what we want , because we don't know what we can get with what we have. Or Maybe we don't know what were missing, because we have never heard a properly tuned SQ setup. . . . My brain just melted from all the meaning that was in those two sentences. ;P But why improve something that sounds perfect? You are being difficult because you think there is one solitary answer to any question. This is FAR from the truth. The trick is to use detail to describe the question to narrow down the answer. If you never narrow it down the answer you could get won't apply to you making it useless & a waste of money. Well i finally found out why i was not satisfied with my sound quality. The decks HPF was set to 100 hz but the subwoofer crossover was at 80 hz , but the speaker amp was set at 75 hz hpf. I did not know what i was missing, until i heard it sound correct. I couldn't even describe why i was not satisfied, I just knew something wasn't there that should have been. That was a kinda impossible situation for me and you i know. But on the plus side, i'm all good now We seem to have trouble communicating ///M5 I notice that member ///M5 uses the word 'YOU" alot. anyone who has gone through a psychology class can tell you that 'YOU" statements put the person being talked to in a defensive position, and they are less likely to see your point of view. "I" statements usually come across as more diplomatic and streamline communication. Heres a link to describe what i am talking about. I type YOU because unlike some other sites that are only interested in selling their wares, we want to actually help. Considering audio is subjective that means that can only be done with information from YOU. Get it? The communication problem is all you. And now get ready to be defensive. To me it sounds like your whole life has been a silver platter and you want to be spoon fed. I'll give you a hint. In audio if you won't think for yourself and try you'll never get where you want to go. Understood. I never claimed I didn't have my own set of problems. you have a valid point, as do i .it appears you are the one being defensive. - I don't even know you and you don't know me. lets not make a problem where there is none now, after your done ripping on me, start trying to help people, stay on-topic ., and explain why using a smd tuner is a dumb idea. +1

I've realized the reason I blew out the subs was due to just overpowering them (I forgot to mention both type R's caught on fire). The gain was turned up a hair and no bass boost. I didnt even max the sub eq on the headunit.(but at least I know the "low ohm" shutoff works nicely )

Ok so hold up wait im confused now... I thought the whole purpose of a better headunit is it provide stronger/cleaner sound source for your amplifier. I thought the main reason an amplifier clips is because the amplifier is straining to output a source that may be too weak/distorted. But with higher input (4v vs 2v) The amplifier works less and also is provided a cleaner signal (so gain doesnt have to be set as high) and this should give you more room to even push subs harder (if ofcourse they can handle) than you could with a 2v headunit and still produce cleaner sound. The way I picture 2v headunit to a 2000w amplifier is like trying to ride your dog like a horse.

There's a guy locally hear on craigslist that charges 20 bucks to use his smdd1 or w/e. You know us musicians have been using our ears to tune for distortion( and tonal quality) and its worked for the past 400 years!

Ok well then that makes perfect sense. I own a PA that i use insside my house for HT/music and it does have a clip limiter option that I use. I can directly adjust gain up until amp cuts and at that point you can hear the sub begning to clearly distort at that setting until you back it down (theres a very fine line). But on the other hand this doesnt happen until I turn the amp past 3/4 on the rotary knob, the sub will hit very clean and crisp no problem ( ive never ever blown a speaker inside my house for the past 6 years). And then as soon as I transport same speaker/enclosure into my car, the sub obviously will begin to clip way sooner than compared to PA. No bass boost and I like to try to keep gain low and use headunit setting to adjust from there. I've asked a couple shops around here with help with tuning and they all have left me dissapointed. (turning my headunit to max volume, adjusting gain and settings Incorrectly IMO, I had a shop set the subsonic filter for my 18 at 30 hz XD and every time I watch them it looks like the sub is legitimately going to explode because they always start at max volume and tune down from there). Is this because they are simply overdriving system just so its simply "louder" to the customers ears?

I plan on trying to find someone with smd tuner to give me a hand once I finish install. Any other ideas of what might cause clipping? Im running nak cd400 headunit I always try to use store cds or at least 320kbs cdrs. I even wired a pac sun rca filter on AUX jack between for when I use my phone and never turn sound card over 70%. Im glad this one is a beast because it will be awhile before I'm inclined to spend much more money on audio as there's other projects I wish to start next year on my car.

Lol you made me laugh when you said budget because ive seen some 60 dollar installs. ( running double speaker wire together as power wire XD) honestly as long as your fused its fine. If I were to budget build though I would pickup a dayton 12 with nice ported box and a nice amp like a 500/1. Thats just me.

Btw any of you have any input to share on the ultra light mdf material? (the kind used in khaotik enclosures) It would be nice to save some weight, I gained an extra 40 miles to the tank after removing my 18!. Thats 15 dollars a week just about to carry that fat sucker around!

Type R's suck man. I had 2 new ones 600w rms each in a ported box with an RE audio 2000w amp (gain past halfway) and they never blew. Switched to a real amp (1000/1) and they popped in 2days with the gain a notch above zero. switched in my rlp18 which played amazingly until a hot day came along (100 degrees) and I think the VC got damaged at that point but the sub was still playing. Tried contacting Mike at SoundSplinter with no luck. With my budget theres no way I was going to give some guy $450 for a used 13w7 thats most likely been abused, so I ended up coming here. I actually got a ton of crap for posting that lolI think what i meant to say was maybe JL amps actually put out what they say they are rated at (or more) and those people who are running "1500 watts rms" to their SA-12s are probably full of sh*t or using low-end amps because my amp is raping that thing. Don't worry , that xcon will most likely take a dump on that 13w7 in terms of pure output, and the support here is amazing from my experiences. Idk if it has anything to do with r.i.p.s. but it almost reminds me of the difference of a diesel vs gas engine. The diesel makes more torque and therefore is not phased as much by hillclimbs/towing. Just like the JL creates same power output at 11-14v and 1.5-4ohms at the expense of the electrical system its hooked up to.

I don't understand why my opinion means I have a lack of knowledge? Ive tried them out and decided they are not for me. Besides they were rated at 600w a piece and didn't last 2 days with 1000/1. Thats with the gain almost at zero with no bass boost. My soundsplinter ( rated at 1000rms) was beaten on a daily basis since last september before it retired a week ago.

Type R's suck man. I had 2 new ones 600w rms each in a ported box with an RE audio 2000w amp (gain past halfway) and they never blew. Switched to a real amp (1000/1) and they popped in 2days with the gain a notch above zero. switched in my rlp18 which played amazingly until a hot day came along (100 degrees) and I think the VC got damaged at that point but the sub was still playing. Tried contacting Mike at SoundSplinter with no luck. With my budget theres no way I was going to give some guy $450 for a used 13w7 thats most likely been abused, so I ended up coming here.

OK! I just placed an order for SSA XCON 15. I'm ready to see what this beast is about!

Amperage rating is one thing (thermal capacity before wire heats up and melts). Copper is more conductive than aluminum therefore due to easier electron travel you will have a greater voltage difference. A higher voltage at the amp(14.4v vs 12v) means your amp will efficiently make its power with less current, straining the alternator as much.

You are destined to fail. If you blow RLp18's then everything else isn't going to fare well either. Add to that you obviously don't give a shit about SQ. Single is a problem too.Aren't we all doomed? I knew I was after I bought my first set of subs 6 years ago ( 2 elemental designs 6.5 inch in a ported box) the still play lovely too, thanks to that clip overload led! I would'nt go as far as to say I don't care for SQ, There's definitely cheaper alternatives, I couldve had 2 hifonics brutus amps for the price of my JL and ran a couple audiobahn 1000w 12s and called it a day for SPL. In fact I don't even like most amps rated at 1%THD. My crown 2500w amplifier at home is just under .03% and it absolutely amazing how much more I can pull out of a sub with clean regulated power.