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rustydawwg

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Posts posted by rustydawwg


  1. My guess would be a distribution block. Probably 2 runs of 1/0 from rear battery to a distribution block in. Then 2 runs of 4 gauge on the distribution block out, one going to the starter and the other going to fuse block. One run of 1/0 to alternator from distribution block out. 

     

    Hope that makes sense, just how i probably would do it. But wait for more experienced users to chime in.

    So basically I want to run everything in Parallel just like factory setup then to keep strong voltage readings. Would I also retain a fuse in the engine bay or move it back towards the battery in the trunk and also fuse the power wire from the alternator to distribution block?


  2. Hi everyone, I have a 1993 lexus gs300. I'm relocating the battery to the trunk, purchasing a 200amp alternator, and doing a big 3 upgrade. I'm running two amplifiers (jl 1000/1 and a 300/4). So I figured at the least I'm going to need zero gauge coming back to the battery. Can someone here please advise me the correct way to run the positive wires? I was planning on running a positive 1/0 from battery to alternator and split it from there to the fuse box and starter. I'm trying to do this right while my engine is outside of the car so I do not encounter any electrical issues down the road.


  3. I just saw Steel Pulse... again last friday at the Del Mar fairgrounds ( San Diego). I also saw them at Pacific Ampitheater here locally. All I have to say is WOW, what an awesome band. I've seen the wailers, ziggy marley, eek a mouse, and pato banton and these guys take the cake for me. Reggae sounds great on the xcon, but these people really know how to put on a good show with lots of great energy/vibes.

    http://youtu.be/h_KpeSYITg0


  4. I just made a 120mile round trip through LA the other day. I have the gain set just a tad under half, no bass boost, center frequency around 60hz. Man, its nice being able to actually utilize the power of my 1000/1 again ( I had a 300w pos as a temporary setup). I'd like to hear 2 of these setup with 2 1000/1s in an SUV some day.


  5. I was very tempted to purchase a zcon, I even was second guessing myself for quite awhile after placing an order. I can tell you though that quickly changed after recieving the xcon. In fact after showing it to the local sound shop, the manager told me its been 15 years since hes sold a sub bigger than 12" and more than 1000w rms.


  6. I've heard plenty of w7's even ones in h/o box setups. Don't get me wrong they are top notch products. As with any product, price is a main deciding factor which can ultimately dictate a consumers decision whether if the good gives enough use or enjoyment at it's cost. I can say as an enthusiast my desires were well satisfied at a greatly reduced cost. Yes, maybe I was mistaken to outright claim the xcon as a better driver. My opinion just happens to factor pricing, which ultimately is one of the bigger deciding factors upon purchasing a product. A brand new 13w7 goes for about 1k, a xcon 15" will run you $450. Theoretically lets say offered 3/4 the performance and reliability of a JL, your average consumer most likely consider the xcon a better purchase due to diminishing returns spending the extra $500 for a 25% increase in product satisfaction. Or else Fi, SSA, ascendant etc would not have a market to work with if JL was superior in every way (price, quality, service).


  7. th_20130728_120429_zps1af2e2d9.jpg

    This is a video I took earlier. I am using my Ps3 as a sound source (optical out to harman kardon reciever). I'm using a mackie fr-2500 (thd >0.03%) driving the sub bridged (2400w -1) at 4ohm.

    I am using my cellphone to record so obviously being able to hear the quality is useless, but I figure I'd at least throw something up focusing mainly on the driver in action, and how well it handles basically any sort of crazy bass riff you through at it effortlessly. Again I'm very satisfied so far, no issues such as the dust cap falling off or rips in the surround.


  8. I know what you mean! I have a Xcon 12 and it sounds amazing! I absolutely love it!! It's my new favorite sub. I bought a motor from Julian on here and ordered a recone from the SSA store. Can't wait to get the other one in.

    2 12's ? Man i already feel myself beginning deaf after a 30 second blast with my 15" be careful man!Lol! These subs are really astounding especially at their price range. Highly recommended to anyone who wants to exceed w7 performance for a better buck.


  9. ^^^ Thanks guys! I'm going to have to invest in some sound deadening next. This sucker really doesn't need its full 1750w rms to perform, just match it with a solid SQ amplifier (800-1500w) and let it rip.( I've tested with a few amps already, so far the best results with JL slash series, and even better with my home amplifer...accuracy/response wise).


  10. Aaron, to answer your question yes these screws sit flush with the driver. They happened to be a extra set of polished aluminum screws with extended allen heads that Sound Splinter sent me with my 18" driver I never ended up using. I think it accents the driver well, I also plan on picking one of these up just for extra...insurance :).

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-15-CHROME-BAR-STYLE-CAR-SPEAKER-SUBWOOFER-GRILL-SUB-WOOFER-METAL-GRILLE-/200815912110

    pmureika, Yes and no. My box builder ended up moving (after I ordered plans for it..). I ended up ordering a prefab online very similar to my set of plans and had a local audio shop modify the box into a double baffle type setup. I plan on moving up to a 4cu ft setup at some point, but this works great for now and also provides access to trunkspace which I haven't had in the past 2 years. :D Here's a link :

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Obcon-Single-15-Labyrinth-Slot-Vent-Ported-Subwoofer-Speaker-Box-Enclosure-USA-/111084313340?pt=US_Speaker_Sub_Enclosures&hash=item19dd241afc

    severancej- 2jzgte swap is happening next march :D


  11. So basically the extra 20mm of xmax is there for bragging or what? I would think it would have some sort of adverse effect but from what you guys are saying it's redundant/useless. I was just curious if it provided more decibels at lower frequencies but I guess thats not that case.

    http://stereointegrity.com/forums/si-products/1310-new-stereo-integrity-24-subwoofer.html

    I also happened to stumble upon this also which again got my attention. Just like the other subwoofer's extreme xmax I'm not sure why you would need 24" of cone area, I thought the 21's ive heard in clubs were pretty crazy to begin with.


  12. Nakamichi & Denon headunits +++

    Sound splinter

    Ascendant audio (avalanche still thumpin strong)

    On a side note, some great brands to have at home:

    Harman Kardon (excellent recievers)

    JBL

    Mackie (PA amplifiers)

    Bash ( plate amplifiers)

    Elemental Designs


  13. i used to have an re audio dts 1500.1 i picked up used for 120. A very solid amp for the price and I used to push my old type Rs with it at 1ohm with no issues (had for about a year). Also had a 500/1 i bought for 170, a refurb at some audio shop, much more precise than the dts amplifier and underated. I recommend it to anyone as its a great amplifier to start with (no need to upgrade electrical) and can still get pretty loud if setup correctly.


  14. What kinda of subs are you going to be driving with the amp? If budget isn't an issue just go ahead and hook everything up and see everything else like everyone says, but if you plan on pushing its limits ( running dual 600w 12s at your amp's lowest impedance rating for example) be prepared to do some upgrades. (could easily be an additonal $300 just to upgrade alternator/big3/battery).

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