EddieC

I may just do that. Still waiting on my Ethos so I still have a few weeks to hold off for a sale. Sucks that after paying 10% off the 31M Saturday they put them on sale for 20% off on Monday. The Sears website has 20% off Die Hard batteries right now, but for some reason the Platinum car batteries aren't included..... go figure.

Quentin, did you ever by chance take a look at this? Time is drawing near and I'd like to get some dimensions to begin the space planning and box building. Thanks.

Are there any designs that have been posted for a single 12 ported enclosure? I have no clue as to how to design one. I'm sure I could try myself but would rather trust someone who actually knows what they're doing. Thanks!

That did seem to keep popping up in my Google searches. Most complaints were from the Yellow Tops though, and seemed to come from improper charging. Guess I'll look for a deal on a D3400 or just grab the Platinum since it has a 4 year warranty anyways.

I was actually going to get a Platinum when I bought the 31M last weekend but no stores had them in stock. When looking online I noticed that the 34 model in particular had some pretty bad reviews. Plus it's a little on the long side so I'm not sure I can wedge it in there. My car actually calls for a Group 25. Just trying to get the biggest I can fit in there. These Optimas are looking pretty good for the application, other than modding the positive terminal....which has to be done anyways.

Sounds good to me. A lot of strong reviews out for the Red Tops, much more so than the Die Hard Platinum 34s. It does say I'll need a height adapter, but I'm modding the terminal/fuse block anyways so that won't be an issue. Thanks for the input, and congrats on the state finals!

Which would you do? Red Top seems to be the best for starting purposes, but here in NC we don't see a lot of extremely cold temps so would the Yellow be the better option since it has the greater reserve hours? I ran a Red Top under the hood and Batcap 800 in the rear for years with no issues awhile back.Sounds good to me. My alt is on its way and the front battery is the last piece of the electrical to get. Looks like a busy weekend in store. Thanks again man! You've been a great help throughout all my posts. I really appreciate it!

LOL. Well there's a reason I hadn't read yet!

Which would you do? Red Top seems to be the best for starting purposes, but here in NC we don't see a lot of extremely cold temps so would the Yellow be the better option since it has the greater reserve hours?

That was something I didn't understand. The last sale was online but the marine batteries wouldn't add to the cart or let me pick up in store. The sales guy gave me the price in the store though, which was nice. I did read that they have a price match where if an item goes on sale within 14 days they'll refund the difference. Doesn't apply to online sales though, so I need to find out what kind of sale this is.

Well isn't this nice. Just looked and the battery I just bought is now 20% off. Any way to get that $ back? Does Sears have some type of low price guarantee to cover that?

Thanks man!

Thanks again man. Yeah these cars are definitely not space friendly under the hood. Lol Now to find a battery that will fit the space. There's only 9.25-9.5 length that I can fit. The Optima Group 25 fits the bill but it's only 80 cca higher than what I have now. Reserve time and amp hours are probably better but I can't find any specs to mine anywhere. An XS d3400 would work but that's probably gonna be overkill, not to mention the extra $.

Here's a link showing a pic. First one you'll see the box.http://www.clubxb.com/forums/scion-xb-engine-tech-performance/11589-grounding-wires.html#/forumsite/20479/topics/11589 Here is what the terminal itself looks like. http://m.ebay.com/itm/181230469225?nav=SEARCH That's why I was thinking that a ring terminal on 2 ends of a cable would connect the 2. A bolt through the fuse block terminal and new wire terminal ring, other one of wire ring to my new battery terminal. Which is here. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HFHBLEA?cache=f3ea23b15211e2121a28c3cd32cfd2b5π=SY200_QL40&qid=1411321969&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1 Sound reasonable?

It puts them on the correct side, but reverses the pos and neg orientation. My problem is this large red fuse block attached to the positive terminal which cannot be moved from it's location. I wish I could post a pic. I think I see a way around it by wiring a ring terminal to both ends on a 1/0 and connecting it that way. I bought battery terminals with dual 1/0 and 4 and 8 guage inputs to support the run from front to rear.

That was my problem at Sears. There were no stores nearby with one in stock. Plus I'm not quite sure the length will work. It's about an inch longer than what I have. The Group 35 was a perfect fit other than the reversed posts.

I have the money now. If it's something that could cause problems anywhere down the road I'd like to go ahead and do it now before the money gets spent elsewhere.

Exactly....both!

You purchased a second battery for the rear yesterday and are going to leave the front one where it is. What was the question again? Didn't know if this was an AGM or not and if I needed another AGM or isolator or what??

You see any issues with trying this combo first to see where I'm at? I truly don't see myself pushing any more than 2700 rms to begin with.

My bad....it's an Autocraft Gold from Advance Auto. Only thing they list as having now is the silver.

Ok I have a battery question. Went and bought a Platinum Group 31M for the rear but the Group 35 had the posts reversed. Needed a Group 34 but they didn't have one anywhere nearby in stock. Will the battery I have up front now work or be sufficient? It's a Duralast Gold Group 25 that I bought March of last year. They don't sell that model any longer, and the only thing I can find is that it has 640 cca. Not sure if it's AGM or not, but I'm guessing not. If I need something different I'm looking at an Optima Red Top now. Suggestions?

Thanks man...So it will give me the same reading regardless of placement?

Yeah I'm going to use MDF this time. Last time I used the supports that came with the stock system. In case you haven't seen them they were a freaking pain! Had to cut the speaker out with a hacksaw blade (all I had on me). Took about an hour each just to get them out. But I'm doing some more searching while everything comes together. Still would kind of like to have a large driver in the doors but I'll do more research. My 220 amp alt should be here next week so I'm going to run my wire this weekend. Quick question there..... where do I wire my voltmeter to.... the back battery? I'm guessing that makes the most sense. Yes I have. I've read and learned a lot there. We have a lot of the same materials where I work as sound and vibration suppression research is done in the building next door. Got the hookup on some tiles, etc. and plan to put that knowledge to use. May have to pick up a few things from them that we don't have.

Thanks again for the input man. I've ordered some Second Skin Damplifier Pro to deaden the vehicle. Gonna start there and see where it takes me. I know I lose a lot of the sound through the doors, as I can hear it pretty darn loud outside the vehicle with the windows up. Since disconnecting the rears and bridging the fronts to gain more power, I do have a better sound but it's just that lack of mid bass that's really bothering me. Hopefully finally deadening the doors will help change all that. I just hate the thought of running only 2 channels off of this 4 channel amp but I guess I'll just pick a nice set of components and see where I'm at then.