EddieC

Fixing the install is what I intend to do. I just paid off the car and am finally able to do all the things I've wanted to from the beginning. I just truly don't know the best way to get what I'm looking for. If I need to run active, so be it. I'll get whatever I need to do it and do it right. As for the speakers, it's all up in the air at this point. What I'm looking for sound-wise is something that really pushes the guitar sound when playing rock music. I want a guitar tone with the crunch of a Marshall stack. I guess playing in heavy rock bands all these years I've been spoiled with great live tones and I'd like to get as close to that as possible. I just need to know how to get there.

Right now I don't really have a budget, but I'm also not looking to pour a wad into it. As long as the amp does it's job, I'm willing to put around $1K (less would be nice) into it. I had actually thought about running an 8 along with a set of components to begin with but trying to figure where the hell to fit that 8 was my main concern.

Mid bass is more of what I was referring to. I know I'm not going to be hitting 30 Hz with them I just want them to sound as good and punchy as possible. I have listened to so many sets that it's getting hard to remember what's what. What I do know is that the XXXs had a nice low end to them and had a good overall sound. That's why I had pretty much decided on them. I just figured that since I still have 2 channels to play with adding something that works well in the vocal area would help to round out the sound. Am I wrong in thinking this? The doors are getting treated asap. I know that has a lot to do with the lacking I'm experiencing now. The Polks are only rated for 60 watts, and I'm giving them every bit they can take at 100 per channel with gains dialed back. But I know there's no way they'll keep up with that Ethos on 2200 watts.....thus the upgrade. But I understand what you're saying about the tradeoff, and that's where I was thinking a good midrange would help balance things, especially with 2 open channels to play with. That's why I'm asking you guys. I'm not ashamed to admit that my knowledge is limited in this matter and need to know what's right and wrong. What works and what doesn't.

Gotcha! Man I really appreciate all the help. I'm out of thumbs ups for today but I'll be sure to up all the posts I missed tomorrow. Thanks again!

Do you see any need for me to have 2 runs of 1/0? 200 amps of fusing for the SQ, 120 for the X14 (which I know I'll never see all of it). I'm thinking 300 max total if my wire can safely handle that on one run.

Thanks man. Really appreciate it. Props to you Q for the awesome customer service so far. I'm recommending DSS to everyone, even in the Facebook groups I'm a member of.

In order to keep it within the lip that surrounds the false floor, I'd like to keep it within 15" deep and 16" height (lower would keep it from touching the seat back, say 15"). Width is 37" but I'd like to keep it as narrow as possible in order to fit the 2 amps and extra battery. 15" depth will give me around 2.5-3" clearance from the hatch, so I'm thinking the sub up port up would be the best option. Unless side firing would be better??? Right now I'm running my 2 Dcons sub up, port up and love the sound. What would you suggest Q?

I'm unsure of the wire brand. I got it for free from the maintenance manager at work. Told him what I needed and coincidentally he was getting new cable for their welder as there were a couple of nicks in the sleeving that would have been considered a safety violation (I'll just make my cuts to eliminate the nicked areas). .The stamping on it reads 1/0 Flex A Prene 600V and definitely ofc. Any clue as to the rating on that? I have 49 ft which should be plenty for everything (I think). Thanks for the pic! Visual aids are always a plus! Looks nice and clean man....props! You too man...good luck on yours! Congrats on the Ethos purchase. After hearing those in person I can't wait to get mine in and bumping! I'll be starting a build log once I get everything planned out. This is going to be more than just an audio build. With nearly 300,000 miles I'm going through this thing from engine, suspension, ground effects, paint....the works! Planning on making this thing a true show piece. It gets attention now but I want to drop some jaws.

Ok....found this link and it pretty much says and shows what you're saying. http://www.caraudio.com/forums/wiring-electrical-installation-help/398527-dual-battery-wiring-tutorial-why.html Since the SQ requires a 200 amp in line and the X14 has 120 amps of fusing on board I'm guessing I should bump up to 300 amp fuses. Correct? I am using ofc 1/0 straight from the welding supply co.

I'll definitely be putting a marine battery inside the vehicle. Not taking any chances there. As for the alt fusing....would this work or do I need something better/larger? http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/231023519605?lpid=82

Awesome... looks like they run $207 so that'll be next on the list.http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinum-automotive-battery-group-size-35-price/p-02851035000P?prdNo=33 As for the fusing from the alt to the battery, 300amp? typically I suggest not to fuse it, a high output alternator can easily blow fuses.Ok...Group 35 Platinum up front. Ho alt. 1/0 big 3 with no fusing. See where voltage rests. I'll do some more research on where to go from there. Run to rear battery? Distribution blocks? These battery isolators I've read about? Sucks having limited knowledge and no friends who know more than I can figure out on my own and by asking questions from people who know what they're doing. I'm learning all I can through my cell phone which sucks, but it'll be worth it in the end when it's over. Thanks for all the help guys... I'm learning a lot.you can use the rear battery as a distro blockrun to rear batter straight from front battery no battery isolater needed unless you have a parasitic drain or two different chemistry batteries if the car sits a lot. agreedSo if I was to use the Platinum Group 35 car batt up front would the Platinum Group 31M work in the rear?Edit...stupid phone autocorrect If both are agms should be fine! Good deal...looks like they fit the bill. So a run of 1/0 from front batt directly to the back batt. From there my runs (with proper in line fusing) to amps. Correct? Sounds goodOk so one question on the fusing. Here are the specs on the SQ amp:Specifications Model Q1-2200D Digital Monoblock 1 ohm stable Input Sensitivity 0.2v-8v Variable Low Pass Filter 20Hz-200Hz @ 24dB/Oct Subsonic Filter 10Hz-50Hz @ 24dB/Oct Output Master / Input Slave, 2 amps linkable connection Clipping Display Led Signal to Noise Ratio 90dB External Fuse Rating 200 Amps, 400 Amps Linked Tested Voltage 14.4V 4 ohm power @ 12V @ 1% THD 500x 1 1 ohm power 2200 x 1 1 ohm Power @ 16V 2500 x 1 2 ohm Linked Power @ 14.4V @ 1% THD 4400 x 1 Notice the external fuse rating says 200 amps, 400 amps. What are they saying here? Edit...never mind. ..just saw linked. 200 amp.

Awesome... looks like they run $207 so that'll be next on the list.http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinum-automotive-battery-group-size-35-price/p-02851035000P?prdNo=33 As for the fusing from the alt to the battery, 300amp? typically I suggest not to fuse it, a high output alternator can easily blow fuses.Ok...Group 35 Platinum up front. Ho alt. 1/0 big 3 with no fusing. See where voltage rests. I'll do some more research on where to go from there. Run to rear battery? Distribution blocks? These battery isolators I've read about? Sucks having limited knowledge and no friends who know more than I can figure out on my own and by asking questions from people who know what they're doing. I'm learning all I can through my cell phone which sucks, but it'll be worth it in the end when it's over. Thanks for all the help guys... I'm learning a lot.you can use the rear battery as a distro blockrun to rear batter straight from front battery no battery isolater needed unless you have a parasitic drain or two different chemistry batteries if the car sits a lot. agreedSo if I was to use the Platinum Group 35 car batt up front would the Platinum Group 31M work in the rear?Edit...stupid phone autocorrect If both are agms should be fine! Good deal...looks like they fit the bill. So a run of 1/0 from front batt directly to the back batt. From there my runs (with proper in line fusing) to amps. Correct?

Awesome... looks like they run $207 so that'll be next on the list.http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinum-automotive-battery-group-size-35-price/p-02851035000P?prdNo=33 As for the fusing from the alt to the battery, 300amp? typically I suggest not to fuse it, a high output alternator can easily blow fuses.Ok...Group 35 Platinum up front. Ho alt. 1/0 big 3 with no fusing. See where voltage rests. I'll do some more research on where to go from there. Run to rear battery? Distribution blocks? These battery isolators I've read about? Sucks having limited knowledge and no friends who know more than I can figure out on my own and by asking questions from people who know what they're doing. I'm learning all I can through my cell phone which sucks, but it'll be worth it in the end when it's over. Thanks for all the help guys... I'm learning a lot. you can use the rear battery as a distro blockrun to rear batter straight from front battery no battery isolater needed unless you have a parasitic drain or two different chemistry batteries if the car sits a lot. agreedSo if I was to use the Platinum Group 35 car batt up front would the Platinum Group 31M work in the rear?Edit...stupid phone autocorrect

Well I guess in this case overkill never hurt. I want to do this right so I think I'll put one in to be safe.

Please explain... not ashamed to admit my knowledge is limited when it comes to more than a simple low power install. This is all new to me and I wanna do it right. And by myself as much as possible.

Awesome... looks like they run $207 so that'll be next on the list.http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinum-automotive-battery-group-size-35-price/p-02851035000P?prdNo=33 As for the fusing from the alt to the battery, 300amp? typically I suggest not to fuse it, a high output alternator can easily blow fuses.Ok...Group 35 Platinum up front. Ho alt. 1/0 big 3 with no fusing. See where voltage rests. I'll do some more research on where to go from there. Run to rear battery? Distribution blocks? These battery isolators I've read about? Sucks having limited knowledge and no friends who know more than I can figure out on my own and by asking questions from people who know what they're doing. I'm learning all I can through my cell phone which sucks, but it'll be worth it in the end when it's over. Thanks for all the help guys... I'm learning a lot.

Awesome... looks like they run $207 so that'll be next on the list. http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinum-automotive-battery-group-size-35-price/p-02851035000P?prdNo=33 As for the fusing from the alt to the battery, 300amp?

Right now I was looking at jay-cee's first suggestion of the bigger alt and getting the biggest battery that would fit under the hood. That's where I was at with the Group 35 Platinum car battery. Am I at the right starting point???

Ok I'm lost I was looking at the under hood Platinums for cars. Do I need a marine battery under the hood?

I understand that, but as for under the hood I'm looking at the Sears Diehard Platinum that was suggested and the dimensions of the Group 35 seem to be a perfect fit. Should I look for an AGM as well or wait to see how it handles the power on the Group 35?

So any Diehard Platinum that will fit would be ideal?

So is there any "rule of thumb" as to what can be used? Or just measure and go as big as possible? And as for the alt...I could get a larger one elsewhere for twice the price. In my research so far people seem to be able to get away with a 200 amp on that power without any issues (with big 3 and big battery or 2). 200 amp x 12 volt = 2400 watts. 200 amp x 14 volts = 2800 watts. Granted the alt doesn't make that at idle. The battery is for reserve to fill in at peak moments. I'm sure I won't be running full tilt on this thing for the most part. It should be able to handle my needs. If not....lesson learned and go bigger. I used this product in my car. Worked great to fill body voids to block road noise. Good for bracing too, IF in the right application. Good to know. Maybe I can get the guys to turn this into a project for vehicle SPL purposes....worth a shot! LOL

Yes...space is limited everywhere in this thing. From my measurements it looks like the biggest battery that will fit will have to fall within 8"wx10"lx10"d. What would you suggest for that?

Here are links to a couple of the sound deadening products we make. Would either of these benefit me in any areas? I can get my hands on this pretty easily. http://www.lord.com/products-and-solutions/adhesives/automotive-repair-adhesives/product.xml/330 http://www.lord.com/products-and-solutions/adhesives/automotive-repair-adhesives/product.xml/1897

The company I work for makes spray on sound dampening material for use in the wheel wells and floor by car manufacturers. Would that benefit me in any other areas? But yes, the whole car is getting treatment. I never did any with my current setup thinking 300 watts wouldn't need it. Man was I wrong. The back doors ripple like crazy and have vibrated the handles loose already.