creyc

Here's another thing to think about. If the outside condition of the sub looks that bad, I doubt the coils are in pristine condition either. That sub looks like it was beat to hell and back, and there's a reason they changed those tinsel leads to prevent slapping the spider. I doubt soldering will hold for long, if at all, but if it does you may as well run it to the ground. The spider will likely tear eventually, then the coil will rock and scrape and die a painful (but hopefully quick) death. Then its recone time, for sure. Or sell it as a motor. Personally I see this as putting it on life support, you may as well just pull the plug

Figured out if you push and hold the select button you can individually adjust the level and phase of any one particular speaker. So there's no need to reverse the speaker wires at the amp. It can all be done from the deck. I notice the midrange sounds much wider and each speaker location becomes too obvious.

And much more difficult to attain, I'm realizing!

Some of the settings on this head deck are a bit wacky. I noticed for example in the crossover

Also, M5, regarding your comment of the 80Hz crossover point, could you elaborate more on this? Would this typically be higher or lower? I merely set it this way because it sounds good.

Do I want to change the phase of just one mid or both? The P800-PRS has adjustable phase for each, highs, mids and lows, but I'm assuming this changes the phase of BOTH speakers at the same time. I played with it a bit today, flipping from normal to reversed on all three but couldn't for the life of me hear even a subtle difference. I thought the tweeters sounded a bit wider at one point when switching back and forth but I couldn't be certain. I'm wondering if I should try it first with time alignment off, though I doubt it would make a difference? I'm surprised I couldn't hear more of a difference, I spend a great deal of time with hi-fi headphones and never have a problem picking out slight nuances, so I think something about my car environment is masking the phase effect. As for sound deadening, both layers of the door are coated. You can see a little of the outer skin covered (behind the glass) in the first photo with the fiberglass removed. I'm not too concerned about this, as I'm fairly certain I covered every significant part of the door. M5, thanks for your info. I shall just call it the sub now. I'm using 12dB/oct slopes on the tweeter HPF, mid LPF, and sub LPF. I'm using a steeper 18dB/oct slope for the mid HPF, trying to cut it off quick to keep the low bass off of it but I'm not sure I like how this sounds. My nose noticed today I must also be approaching the thermal limits of the mids. It was surprising because I would estimate the overall loudness to be about on par with a somewhat decent factory radio (sub excluded) albeit thats where the comparison ends. I would just prefer to have a bit of headroom, I'm right at the limits currently.

I thought I was currently running a 3-way active system, or does the substage not count? Including subs, and adding a midbass, wouldn't that be a 4-way? I'm interested in trying a dedicated midbass driver but not sure how I could run 4 channels off my P800-PRS which only has 3 sets of RCAs and active crossovers. My other thought was to simply double up on drivers, add another set of PRS components to better handle the power. Only non-simple part being I would need to build/buy a custom door panel.

Unfortunately I don't have the most recent pictures of the doors (just cleaning up some of the dynamat and adding some self adhesive foam around the wires) since I put the door panels back on I can't get more pics, but this should give you an idea of what I've done. The red flat piece is fiberglass I cut to fit and seal the larger holes. For lack of a better place to put them, and needing a basline of comparison to start with, the tweeters were mounted in the stock locations with modified brackets, on the dash reflecting off the windshield. I'm using time alignment on the P800-PRS, and its in 3-way active Network Mode.

If you have to ask....1500 RMS. It all depends on what kind of power they're seeing, what kind of cooling they're getting and the content they're being asked to reproduce.

PC case fans should handle that voltage fine, I've run up to 18v to them without issue. You can always use a resistor inline to drop the voltage the fan sees to exactly 12v if you bought expensive fans you want to go easy on. Which brings me to the second point. PC case fans are ridiculously cheap. Cheap enough to experiment around with and only be out $5 if you happen to fry it. It might not even be worth trying to match voltage with resistors. Run it for a few months and see.

I just got my Pioneer PRS components running active on a Rockford Power 600-4 amp and Pioneer P800-PRS head deck. So far I'm quite pleased with the results but it's not perfect. On some songs I notice distortion/light bottoming which I traced to come from the 6.5" mids in the doors, and only when I'm really rocking out I've got them crossed over fairly low, at 80Hz because I've got my sub-stage crossed at 63Hz. I like the way this sounds, I could cross the mids higher and solve this problem but then it sounds like a large hole. I don't want to raise the sub crossover point either to fix this, my subs play pretty sloppy IMO near 80Hz plus I don't like what that does to the imaging. I'd prefer to keep them crossed at or below 63Hz. Overall it sounds amazing at low levels, it's very hard not to grab hold of that volume knob! How can I remedy my situation and stop the distortion? (in case you're wondering, no I'm not getting amplifier clipping. It's the speaker itself)

I want to order my 18's already!

sick, I'm in the market for some BLs just in time as they're undergoing an update! Can't wait to place my order

Fi's suggested enclosures are all you need. hehe, its not april 1st anymore no? And thanks for the link, I didn't know the subguts project was up and running yet!

I would normally point you to Fi's site which has the full T/S properties but they like to take down the page to their subs when they're out of stock so they don't get more orders they can't fill. At least that's what I've read on here before.. I'm actually looking for the specs for this exact sub, I was hoping they'd be in this thread!